I know what you mean Wrongway. I JUSTA don't know where I put my soldering gun when I moved 8 years ago and I've had little need of it since. I usually double crimp and shrink wrap the connection to carry me over.

I might invest in a new one when I get to re-doing the speaker wires.That it going to be a long process for sure.

Yeah, I spent a few weeks doing mine. My biggest problem was that NOBODY was able to tell me what all 9 pins were for on the ignition switch. Let me rephrase that, I've got the wiring schematic's but painless and a couple of the other companies told my that I couldn't wire a 9 pin into their harness or their tech and designers didn't know how (lol). I've got a really cool ignition "switch" set up now. I'll send you a video once the motors back in.

Also, have you seen these wire connectors? I was wiring the back end of my buddy's bike this past weekend. He pull's these out and asked if I had tired them yet. I hadn't at the time, I have now and they worked great for splices. Apparently they are even using them on airplanes from what he was told by his vending rep. Stick a skinned wire into both sides, heat up with your heat gun and it melts the solder ring. The clear tube is heat shrink and the colored circles are a waterproof layer. So they solder, heat shrink and weather proof all in one whack! Pretty cool stuff. Oh and you can get a box like that one for about 15 bucks.

22 hours ago, Frosty said:

I know what you mean Wrongway. I JUSTA don't know where I put my soldering gun when I moved 8 years ago and I've had little need of it since. I usually double crimp and shrink wrap the connection to carry me over.

I might invest in a new one when I get to re-doing the speaker wires.That it going to be a long process for sure.

JustA thought, but I usually hate to destroy OEM stuff in a car if I can see another way to get there! So you could keep your existing wiring, but just deactivate it or tape it to protect it. Than run new wires from the fuse block, coil and ground. Napa even sells some really nice fuse block add-on wire adaptors!

I remember we talked about the hydraulic rams you installed before and I had some questions as to the connection threads. So if you want when you get there take some pictures and see if you can resolve this for good!

23 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Yeah, I spent a few weeks doing mine. My biggest problem was that NOBODY was able to tell me what all 9 pins were for on the ignition switch. Let me rephrase that, I've got the wiring schematic's but painless and a couple of the other companies told my that I couldn't wire a 9 pin into their harness or their tech and designers didn't know how (lol). I've got a really cool ignition "switch" set up now. I'll send you a video once the motors back in.

Also, have you seen these wire connectors? I was wiring the back end of my buddy's bike this past weekend. He pull's these out and asked if I had tired them yet. I hadn't at the time, I have now and they worked great for splices. Apparently they are even using them on airplanes from what he was told by his vending rep. Stick a skinned wire into both sides, heat up with your heat gun and it melts the solder ring. The clear tube is heat shrink and the colored circles are a waterproof layer. So they solder, heat shrink and weather proof all in one whack! Pretty cool stuff. Oh and you can get a box like that one for about 15 bucks.

I have heard a lot of folks complain about Painless Wire. I have yet to have to completely replace the wiring harness but when I do buy mini-harnesses like for the tach, I buy American Autowire. They (supposedly) use all OEM connectors and are the proper length and gage wire. My dream would be to re-wire Lucy with a new a harness with all OEM connections but with a new blade fuse block. 

So what is the name of this kit and where do you get it? I have not seen it before.

Last Indian - I try to re-use the existing wiring but I go to great length to not cut of hack it up. I want to preserve the wiring, not further it's butchery. So I will re-use the ignition power, lights, and ground wiew for the radio on the new radio and carefully plug the new wires into the old harness with butt connectors and be sure to tape off the connections in such a way to not let them come in contact with each other, and not let them come loose.

If you google or go to Amazon and type in "solder seal connectors" they'll pop up bro. As far as painless goes, their not a bad company or product. They just don't have very knowledgeable people working in their customer service. The guy I was dealing with actually contacted their "engineers" and even they couldn't figure out the ignition switch. I sent them color pictures of my factory schematics. They finally told me there was nothing more they could do, lol. Next time I'll try American Autowire. I have actually built a harness once from scratch on an old 68' F100. Which is why I bought one this time. lol.

 

@Frosty - be warned that once you start using these things, you won't stop. I've found they COMPLETELY spoil me when doing wiring jobs. Best way I can describe it is it's like crack for people who do their own wiring. I use this things on everything I do a wiring job on - home & automotive. I even use them in areas where they are exposed to the elements (in those cases, though, I put additional protection on them) - the colored bands on each end of the casing also melt to create a water tight seal.

I have them in my cart on Amazon. I guess I need to hit check out on them. Thanks for the testimonial guys.

The new circuit board for the back of Lucy’s instrument cluster came tonight. On Saturday I noticed it starting to separate at the main electrical,connector. It’s almost 50 years old.o

13 hours ago, Frosty said:

The new circuit board for the back of Lucy’s instrument cluster came tonight. On Saturday I noticed it starting to separate at the main electrical,connector. It’s almost 50 years old.o

Cheap Pontiac parts! 😁

3 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Cheap Pontiac parts! 😁

Damn it!

On 7/29/2020 at 8:14 AM, Frosty said:

I have them in my cart on Amazon. I guess I need to hit check out on them. Thanks for the testimonial guys.

Check The Box !! Stewy is right these things are great!! Used them on my rewiring kit this past winter!! Be careful though the first batch I got would burn thru the plastic and not melt the solder, but I made them aware of the problem and they sent me a new and improved set that worked great! Make sure after use you let them "cure" a bit before you tug on them!

On 7/28/2020 at 1:43 PM, Frosty said:

I have heard a lot of folks complain about Painless Wire. I have yet to have to completely replace the wiring harness but when I do buy mini-harnesses like for the tach, I buy American Autowire. They (supposedly) use all OEM connectors and are the proper length and gage wire. My dream would be to re-wire Lucy with a new a harness with all OEM connections but with a new blade fuse block. 

So what is the name of this kit and where do you get it? I have not seen it before.

Last Indian - I try to re-use the existing wiring but I go to great length to not cut of hack it up. I want to preserve the wiring, not further it's butchery. So I will re-use the ignition power, lights, and ground wiew for the radio on the new radio and carefully plug the new wires into the old harness with butt connectors and be sure to tape off the connections in such a way to not let them come in contact with each other, and not let them come loose.

I had the same problem with my original ignition switch could not get it wired properly I looked at American Auto wire diagrams and still could not figure it out. Finally used an aftermarket switch that works fine, but pain in the ass to get it to fit in original hole !! But got it !! Don't like the key, but hard to see it ! My question is with all these "so called" wiring gurus out there Why can't someone figure out this common 9 pin switch?

Well it's really nice driving Martha around with the A/C Working !!😅

3 hours ago, wdl182 said:

I had the same problem with my original ignition switch could not get it wired properly I looked at American Auto wire diagrams and still could not figure it out. Finally used an aftermarket switch that works fine, but pain in the ass to get it to fit in original hole !! But got it !! Don't like the key, but hard to see it ! My question is with all these "so called" wiring gurus out there Why can't someone figure out this common 9 pin switch?

Wiring diagram for your car should show you whats what.

The big problem that I found JUSTA is the way that the wiring harnesses are made now vs the original way. Like the circuits Pontiac ran worked but the way Painless for example ran their circuits it cant be done the original way. I know I didn't explain that right. Hope you understand what I mean bro. I've got a ton of notes and drawings from when I did mine I'll post in the next couple of days along with the color wiring schematics. See what you think bro. JUSTA gotta put my hands on them. But I tried everything I could come up with, everything painless could come up with, had an electrician friend check them out and called a company that specializes in wire harness installs. I've built 1 harness from scratch and I've installed a number of others over the years.  None of us could figure out the 9pin.lol. Since I wanted everything to "look" original inside of the car I opted not to use an aftermarket ignition switch. I knew I was going to use aftermarket A/C when the time comes. So I turned the factory A/C controls into an "ignition switch". The knob on the left is the kill switch to the whole car. Push the "outside" button to "power up" the car (accessory on your key switch). Press "heater" to start the car. When you get to where your going, simply press in the "stop" button and the car shuts off. No wires on the back of the ignition switch at all but the original switch IS still installed so it looks factory.

Edited July 31, 20205 yr by Wrongway

8 hours ago, Wrongway said:

The knob on the left is the kill switch to the whole car. Push the "outside" button to "power up" the car (accessory on your key switch). Press "heater" to start the car. When you get to where your going, simply press in the "stop" button and the car shuts off. No wires on the back of the ignition switch at all but the original switch IS still installed so it looks factory.

Love it! 😄

Gotcha.  My GTO was a bracket car before I got it.  Had one toggle switch to fire engine.  Took me all winter, but rewired the entire car using the wiring diagram for the 66.  All wires were cut at the fusebox.  Was able to find the flat front to rear floorpan wiring to the back of the car.  And finally cut out  the dash light wire from a 67 dash harness. (wrong color for my app but worked perfect and got all the bulbs as well.

Wow man, that had to be a pain! You did an amazing job! She's absolutely gorgeous bro! So the coin slot, an old coin operated pool table? 

One of the big surprises I found while wiring up the GP was the bright light indicator on the dash. Now remember this is my 1st Pontiac so I'm sure yall have seen this before but it was new to me. When the dash lights up the indicator lit up red, not blue and the light was in the shape off an Indian head. Man i showed everybody that stopped by that week lol. Still blows me away that they took the time to do that. Just cool lol

3 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Wiring diagram for your car should show you whats what.

Not when you put in an after market wiring kit. They just show the basic stock GM ignition wiring. It's just that Pontiac runs so many other circuts thru the ignition switch that it's hard to figure out  believe me I tried !!

9 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Wow man, that had to be a pain! You did an amazing job! She's absolutely gorgeous bro! So the coin slot, an old coin operated pool table? 

One of the big surprises I found while wiring up the GP was the bright light indicator on the dash. Now remember this is my 1st Pontiac so I'm sure yall have seen this before but it was new to me. When the dash lights up the indicator lit up red, not blue and the light was in the shape off an Indian head. Man i showed everybody that stopped by that week lol. Still blows me away that they took the time to do that. Just cool lol

LMAO   fooseball table.  I have had that since the early 70's  waiting for the right spot to install. Had it installed on my boat for awhile with a sign ...A$$ Grass or cash, NOBODY rides for free.    No, Mama wouldn't let me use it in the GTO  Had to change it up a bit.  Wow, the indicator ,thats a new one to me.  Would like to see that.  Already wondering how to install on my dash.??   Need to get my dash pulled.  Have the new veneer to install on it.  New climate controls and LED dash lights.    

8 hours ago, wdl182 said:

Not when you put in an after market wiring kit. They just show the basic stock GM ignition wiring. It's just that Pontiac runs so many other circuts thru the ignition switch that it's hard to figure out  believe me I tried !!

I've never used an aftermarket wiring kit.   Would still rather visit the dentist than mess with wiring, but take your time, you'll get it.  I Have alot more time than $$$, always figured, if you get in a jamb, there is always somebody that can fix it.  Even did my own seats/interior during the "new frame" resto.  Will never have the skills of Last Indian (wouldn't that be helpful??)  But I've truly built the GTO from the ground up N by myself.  You'll figure it out bro.  Whats left thats not working??? 

Wiring my therapy.  Car has tunes.

6 minutes ago, notallthere said:

Wiring my therapy.  Car has tunes.

Well lookie who dropped in.  How it going bud? 

Here ya go bud. Its just cool lol.

12 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Here ya go bud. Its just cool lol.

That's cool as hell, thankz for sharing.