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Frosty last won the day on March 1

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About Frosty

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  • Birthday 03/19/1960

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  1. Good luck with the new water pump and thermostat Dr Jones. We are all interested to find out what happens next. Dr Jones, I think I had a small epiphany. It just dawned on me that your overheating issues is with a Pontiac engine in a 3rd gen body. Bear with me. When Pontiac built the third gens, other than the first couple of years, there are no open access to the radiator through the front grille. All the grilles are closed. So Pontiac installed a small plastic air dam under the car, in front of the front wheels/radiator that directs air up into the radiator from near road level. It's about 1.5-2.5 wide and spans the width of the car. It's not clear to me in your photographs if that air dam is there. Is that air dam still there? Is it removed or dangling? If it is missing or partially attached, then this may be contributing to you overheating since cool air is not being forced up into the radiator.
  2. Depends on what you plan to do with the car. If you were racing type, then drag shocks would be in order. Also if you were going to lower the car for either autocross or the low-rider/get-the-car-in-the-weeds look, then perhaps air bagger shocks/suspension kit would be your selection. However, if you plan to essentially keep the car mostly stock appearing with minor upgrades to the stock suspension, I would recommend going with a good quality premium gas shock - either an AC/Delco, Monroe, K-Y-B, or Gabriel replacement for the fronts. You could spring for the multi-adjustable ones from the likes of QA1 but is that what you really want? Plus they are much more expensive. Out back is a little more complicated. Do you plan to haul a lot of people and/or luggage/tents/car show chairs/coolers, etc, etc, etc. that could weigh down the back end? Again, I would probably start with a premium gas shock. If you think a lot of stuff or people will be needed to be lugged around that will weigh a ton, then perhaps a set of rear air shocks from Gabriel is the ticket. I had issues with my air shocks during a recent parade with my whole family in my Lemans convertible. Since my wife complained about the ride, I decided to try something new. I got a set of Gabriel "Rear Spring Assist Shocks" which is a gas shock with an added coil spring to help support the rear spring under heavier than normal rear loads and I don't have to rely on air pressure to keep them up. Everything is mechanical. That's my two cents, I am sure others will chime with their opinions. Regardless, replacing the bushing all the way around with either rubber or polyurethane will help, along with replacing the front upper and lower ball joints, and perhaps the entire drag link assembly along with the idler and pitman arms. Lastly, I've read somewhere that someone has come up with a rear sway bar kit for the big B-C cars, which they never had originally. This will make a huge difference in the handling of the car if you can find one and install it. The sway bar could be added at anytime. Getting the car running is the main priority.
  3. SPRINT6 - once again I've learned something from you, my friend. I was going to guess at a 30s era trunk rack, but I would have been guessing. The fact that you had the photograph to prove it, is outstanding. Thank you again sir!
  4. You don't have winter, indoor car shows close to you?
  5. Welding project! Build a new kamode out of 3/4 plate stainless and have it pinstriped!
  6. Here are the block codes and casting numbers for all '63 A-bodies.
  7. We don't get the actual race until March 27th! The Monkeys vs Outlaws builds are two episodes each. So we still need to wrap up the Crow II build first.
  8. He practically gets his Mopar parts for free. Who else does Dodge commercials and is allowed to disassemble, gut, use-as-you-please a pilot Challenger Hellcat and not have to return it to FCA unscathed? You and I would be in jail for grand theft auto! So that car had been used for two builds. The Dart that beat the Roadkill boys and now he's gunning for Justin.
  9. Maybe you can find some aftermarket SBC Chevy valve covers that say Pontiac then. JUSTA a thought.
  10. You can try posting it in the Pontiac Oakland Club International (POCI) want ads if you are a member. Obviously a large range of Pontiac and perhaps AACA postings. Hemmings might also be a good place to post it.
  11. I totally agree with JUSTA on this. It's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Even if you end up with $500 for it, it is $500 you have to spend on something else, plus it isn't taking up space in your garage anymore.
  12. Old Guy, I would definite recommend doing a light porting and polishing on both the intake and exhaust ports. I would also recommend a 3-angle valve job to help the valves seal properly on any engine. Also porting to match the intake and exhaust gaskets/manifolds is good for any engine. I have done that with my 455. As for mileage, I get around 12-14 on the highway with my 4-bbl and 400TH combo with my 455 (its really a 462 - a 455 bored .030 over). Lucy is a 4500 lb car too. With the top down or a super heavy right foot, it can drop to 8 smiles per gallon. I have never measured city driving since I don't use mine as a daily driver. However, the 4-bbl carbs only open the bigger secondaries only when you need them.
  13. Since your mind is made up to do a restomod on the '31, my opinion/suggestion would be to sell the motor to someone who might be doing an authentic '31 restoration. Let someone restore it who wants to see it run again or has need of the parts. Plus it will bring in some cash to offset the cost of your build.
  14. I think I'll take my chances with the stump water. Montezumas Revenge is not my idea of fun. Dry heaves I understand.
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