Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

Pontiac of the Month

gscherer78ta's 1978 Trans Am

2019 February
of the Month

Last Indian

Plus Members
  • Content Count

  • Avg. Content Per Day

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Last Indian last won the day on February 5

Last Indian had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

192 Excellent


About Last Indian

  • Rank
    Century Club
  • Birthday 11/08/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    Pretty much anything in motion, architectural design & work, sports, space & and why humans fail to learn from clear & obviously results of past generations!

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
  • Gender
  • Year
  • Car
    Grand Prix
  • Trim
  • Engine
  • Style
  • Color
    Dark Navy Blue

Recent Profile Visitors

2,616 profile views
  1. Money! Ah money! Oh ya money. Since 1970 milk has increased about 180%, but eggs have increased about 900%. While regular gas has increased 600%, but cars, say an Impala, has increased 1100%! Now if you assume most things affect the other where is the logic? Oh ya see Frosty’s statement!!
  2. Chatbox? We have a chatbox? Really! 😁 what’s a chatbox?😳
  3. Great work Mike! This is clearly not your first time to the dance! 😁Thanks for sharing and I love the video approach. A lot of fun there, but don’t you just hate the cleanup!
  4. The best paint I’ve ever used for the undercarriage/frame/suspension with the exception of powder coat, which is cost prohibitive for most undercarriage work is Hammerite rust cap. It’s a little hard to explain, but if you go to the progression section and look at FWD ground pounder, you only need to look at the first page. There are quite a few pictures of that paint in black and silver. A good visual example is the Aarm, but you can see it on the floor, rockers, frame, as well as some of the suspension pieces. This paint has 30% glass flakes in it. When you paint it on it’s all most like painting with contact glue! It’s that tacky! When it dries, a good 24 hr, it’s hard as hell and bonds to a good base paint like few I’ve ever used. You will need at least two coats,but I would do 3. It will chip, but not without some effort.
  5. Red oxide paint is still available from many companies, Rust-oleum, Sherwin Williams, etc. red oxide paint is lead paint, but not quite that simple to make as it is tetraoxide of lead and reacts with steel and iron as opposed to just lead in paint. The reason folks would for go undercoating on a car and leave just the red oxide were usually to distinctly different reasons! One was cheap the other was smart. Undercoating/rustproofing was just a plain bad product, and I had 20 years of research to prove that out. A lot of guys that opted out would then paint the underside, fenderwells, frame etc with a good quality paint intended to enhance the red oxides properties. You see undercoating did not stop rusting, not in the rust belt! What it did was delay it so when the car showed signs of rust, (about 7 to 8 years) the whole car was gone in 6 months. Salt would actually migrate through the rustproofing and go to the steel, but without a good oxygen supply it rusted more evenly as opposed to how it rusted when rubberized tar coated, which was usually edges first. Which became evident in about 3 to 4 years. Nothing, and I mean nothing works better than paint! Good, very high end good paint. Paint that is meant for frames, farm equipment etc. The advantage in paint is that it’s either there or it’s not! And you can see that and fix it. Not so with undercoating/rustproofing. Even red oxide by itself, unpainted, will do a better job than undercoating/rustproofing if you keep it painted when the paint gets abraded away.
  6. As Frosty indicates paint batches vary slightly, but I doubt that is the problem. Fading or even pigment migration are likely the problem, with one exception! Are you the original owner? From your writing I take it you're not. Which means there is no assurances that the paint is original. I would suggest you find a shop that has a color gun. They can tell you exactly what the paint is on the car and match it perfectly.
  7. You’re right, but that’s why nearly all US business can’t sustain continuity for any real length of time today. An old saying of “Do what you do, do well son” was never more true! There is no replacement for experience, none! The recognition of circumstances can only be that due to that precise reason. Formal education can’t teach it! JDA’s can’t capture it and at the job level companies truly don’t have a clue. If they did they would not give away intellectually property inadvertently as they do by outsourcing work! More lost company revenue has occurred due to outsourcing than any revenue saved due to wage reductions. I could go on, but it’s pointless as you already know!
  8. Not cool buddy! I feel for all of those folks! Terrible to be put in that position, I can’t imagine how disconcerting it is for them. What happened to the days of workers retiring when they are ready? Oh yeah that disappeared 30-40 years ago!
  9. I would think you’re good! I would just follow what we’ve discussed, minus the additional bleeding.
  10. If you can, yes I would let it sit a few days. Also if you can safely leave the gas cap loose to allow better evaporation I would, but only if the area is well ventilated and shielded from the weather. Otherwise leave the cap on. I would use Sunoco’s 93 octane, yes you will get some ethanol, but it’s a much higher grade of ethanol than most other brands. Plus it will help to disperse any remaining water. I would suggest leaving that gas set for a few hours and than add the Sta-bil marine additive, at least 2oz per 5 gal. Again let that sit maybe an hour, then you should be good. Additionally you might consider bleeding the fuel supply at the fuel rail, about a gallon, before you fire the engine.
  11. Frosty is dead on, use the Heat now to help remove what water you have left in the tank! Then when you refill the tank do two things! One fill the tank with at least 91 octane or higher and add 2 oz of Sta-bil marine for every 5 gals of fuel in the tank! I never run any of my cars without using Sta-bil. Sta-bil is also a Gold Eagle product. A little FYI, all gas is not equal, no matter what you’ve heard. Sunoco & Shell are heads above all the others in their addictive packages. This includes the type of refined Ethanol they use and how they blend the products together.
  12. There are several that bond to plastic, but the plastic needs roughed up (course sanding). I use 3M 05887 because it is flexible. The exhaust opening remains the same as originally done, see photo. The Jury emblem is almost finished, still need to polish the nooks and crannies, but all in all I think Frosty will be pleased?! How have you and your family been? Good I hope! After lower widening mod. Still need to body work the gap area. Haven’t decided exactly what I’m going to do yet. Before mod.
  13. Well finally got a day to start some of the other work I need to do to widen the rear cover. 1997-2000 did not come with rear inside fenders, but 2001-2003 did. So in 2001 I went and bought rear inside fenders for the Indian. Now with widening the back cover those need widened as well. So I went and got new rear inside fenders from my GM parts dealer buddy so I could start that work. attached are some photos of that work, as well as a photo of how it has moved the lower rear portion of the cover out. Before widening after widening
  14. I have a good friend from work whose mom was killed about 10 years ago in Ft. Myers coming from the beach. His dad was seriously injured as well, but survived.
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.