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Pontiac of the Month

redgoat's 1967 GTO

2021 January
of the Month

Last Indian

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Last Indian last won the day on November 13 2020

Last Indian had the most liked content!

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About Last Indian

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    Experienced Pontiac Poster
  • Birthday 11/08/1951

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    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    Pretty much anything in motion, architectural design & work, sports, space & and why humans fail to learn from clear & obviously results of past generations!

Forever Pontiac

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    Grand Prix
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    Dark Navy Blue effect

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  1. Pretty sure it’s connection point is the same as my Camaro’s was (see pic)! The wiring from the top, horn, turn signal, flashers, disconnects mid column & comes out the top, through the plastic sleeve that the wiring runs through! But if all he is doing is replacing the steering wheel he should not need to pull the wiring!
  2. I’ll apologize up front if I offend anyone! Oh what the hell no I don’t! This is in a nutshell the emasculation of American! It started quite a while ago, but really gained ground under the Obama administration, sorry just a fact! Want more proof, see what the Democratic’s did in congress two weeks ago? Now in congress sessions you can’t be a father or brother or father-in-law, etc... And the list goes on and on! This is to strip every single one of us of our masculinity or femininity, our civil rights under the constitution, which you can pretty much wipe your you know what with now! We
  3. Once you install the driveshaft you should check the driveshaft angle to verify it’s in the proper range. If it ends up out of range you’ll have to determine what you might change if anything! But knowing where it’s at is always good to know! The steering arm is most likely ok! First of all it’s cast steel, which is more ductile! Cast iron is pretty unforgiving. Plus 5/8 of an inch movement in the arch that your steering arm has isn’t much! Last if you have a concern you could get the arm shot peened and than magnafluxed!
  4. Been there! Done that! Not to take one damn thing away from the amazing job you did buddy! But at least you had a garage! When I did the full frame conversion on the “69” , I had a set of homemade wood sawhorses and a stone driveway! I still have indents in my back!😳
  5. Kiwi, It is reasonable to presume that the tranny pan should be parallel to the frame rails, but what is actually more relevant is that the mounting face of the carburetor on the intake manifold be level! This needs to be level! This can only be done accurately when the car is on the ground and the suspension is complete and loaded! I.E. car is basically completed, interior is in, all body panels on, gas tank full or at least approximated with weight, etc.. This is actually a fairly critical measurement as it then will give you the angle of the driveshaft to the differential! Which in turn is
  6. Yeah GM used the choke thing to help speed up engine heat up! Never liked it, never made any real cense! If it fails on the closed position that’s bad, but most of the time they just rust open! Then in time the cross shaft rusts through the shaft tends to fall out and the butterfly plate drops into the exhaust! If you’re lucky it sits parallel in the exhaust pipe, if not, it turns vertical and blocks off the whole exhaust. Long story short, get rid of it! Just drill & tap out the hole on both sides to the next closest size pipe thread and tap it! Get some Stainless Steel pipe plugs and sea
  7. To all a toast to a Merry Christmas & to all Cruze on!
  8. Now you’re JustA being silly! Finished product! this was the last one!
  9. JustA’s idea should prove good! As he indicates, in this type of bushing the only purpose the steel tube & bolt serve is to contract the bracket sides in against the steel tube! Once torqued the bolt, steel tube & bracket side should be married together. What I would do additionally though is this! Once you press the 9/16 bolt through the sleeve and than back out and replace it with a new bolt, coat the inside of the sleeve with anti-seize & when you install the bolt coat the bolt as well! This is because the bolt and sleeve will have a much closer fit than is typical! That wi
  10. Yes & no! It’s not, in most cases anyway, cold roll! Usually it’s a tempered steel, so it’s pretty tough! Meaning a standard drill won’t cut it. Also they are never round, which makes it all the harder to drill!
  11. I don’t like that kind of clearance! IMO you’re JustA asking for trouble! So looking at it I see two remedies! JustA’s idea is a good remedy! I would use at least 1/8” thick washers with a fairly close 1/2” hole, .510 to .515. Then tack weld them in at less three places! The other would be take a grade 8, 9/16 bolt that is long enough that when it goes all the way through the unthreaded part sick’s out past where you would put the nut. The turn down the shaft of the bolt down to .510 to .520. At the head end of the bolt leave a 1/6” wide step that’s .565 to .570. At the other end you will have
  12. First of all how big is the outside diameter of the inner steel sleeve in the vulcanized rubber? It’s a problem, but not to worry! You can fix it! You need one of two remedies! The simplest is two special washers for each side of the 1/2” bolt. So depending on how large the outer diameter is of the sleeve is will determine what those washers look like! Aarms like other vulcanized bushing need the center steel sleeve clamped to the frame/bracket by the through bolt! This is what make the vulcanized bushing do it’s job! Once you tell me what that O.D. Is I’ll determine what the washe
  13. Don’t tell Smokey Yunick that! Those cars dominated NASCAR in the day mate!
  14. Well yes it’s winter again! So it’s itch time again. I made the new shift knob a couple years ago now, but it just never grabbed me the way I thought it would so I’m back at it again! First I thought I would do one out of my amber Ultem material! I got about half way through and that JustA didn’t look like I was going to like how it would turn out. So I thought about a different aluminum design! there is an inlay piece that goes into the arrowhead cut out of the aluminum ball knob.
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