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Pontiac of the Month

dues70's 1970 Pontiac Bonneville

2020 July
of the Month

Last Indian

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Last Indian last won the day on July 1

Last Indian had the most liked content!

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About Last Indian

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    Experience comes with Posts
  • Birthday 11/08/1951

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    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    Pretty much anything in motion, architectural design & work, sports, space & and why humans fail to learn from clear & obviously results of past generations!

Forever Pontiac

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    Grand Prix
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    Dark Navy Blue

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  1. Hey Randy, really sorry to hear about your health issues, but great to hear from you and that you’re on the mend! We’re all looking forward to your continued improvement and posting when you get back in the saddle!
  2. What Frosty says is true enough! That said, no this is not a sealed transmission! It has a pan, but the pain is the same pain that any of the transmissions built after late “70s” had! GM was to cheap to put in a drain plug! So you need a really big spill pan when you drop the pan. Basically you take the bolts loose in a manner that drops one corner of the pan to act like a pour spout! My advice is if you change the transmission fluid yourself or if you go to a good shop, drill the pan and put in a drain plug for the next time! And yes at 40,000 the fluid is pretty much on the ragged edge! If anyone tells you different, they don’t have a clue as to how the transmission fluid additive package works! GM sets this standard to CYTA! Nothing else! They what to keep you out of the drivetrain, period! Will till the warranty is up after that they don’t care! I would recommend you do a drain fill, don’t change the filter yet, run 50 - 100 miles change it again! Run it another 50 miles, drain it change the filter and fill with new fluid again. Oil changes in a transmission only get about 2/3 of the fluid out. So each time you put in new fluid it get contaminated with the remaining old fluid, which immediately degrades the new fluid. It takes about three flush changes to get a good oil change. I would also recommend you use Dextron IV as the new fluid!
  3. First of all I am very happy to see that Ringo’s website works JustA the way he would want it to! People pitching in to help one another out! No condemnation, no heckling, JustA working to resolve someone’s problem! Way to little of the today! I would guess that the shop that did the heads the first time put in good aftermarket valve seals. To do so they must cut the top of the valve guide. Perfect Circle for instance! A lot of those seals are white and whether they put those in or not they should replace the seals with new ones this time as well.
  4. Wrongway, glad you’re zeroing in on all the things that need addressed. The white plastic pieces you found? What type of valve stem seals did you use? With all the valve related damage you’ve seen it just might be from them!
  5. Ok!this is all Frosty’s fault! He starts this stuff about redoing and changes his mind and than he goes and balloons it to more crap! Than pretty soon it’s a whole be project! Man oh man! Thanks al lot buddy! The new plenum just mushroomed into a lot more complexed piece! 😳 Had to start over, had an epiphany! Than a what if! This setup will really induce air flow from the hood into, across and out the back of the hood to really cool the plenum & throttle body!
  6. Wrongway, if you’re going to pull the motor, & if it were mine I would, than I would at least take it down to the short block! Clean everything really well, as Bear describes! The one thing you can’t check without disassembling is the pistons and rings! When the valves broke, if that caused enough movement in the rings or pistons that could have caused an issue with either one. So once you have it all apart, move each piston through its full stroke and inspect each cylinders bore carefully for scaring! Then if you do send it to a shop see if they have solid stress plates or some variant of that to pressurize each piston assembly to check the ring sealing. It’s just one more of those things that you would hate to assume is ok, put the whole thing back together and have another hiccup!
  7. Actually I came with a flip card attached to my navel that had all of those and more! 😁
  8. Depends on what the fitting is or looks like! If the fitting is conducive to putting a gage on it and you use a female air chuck on the fill side that would surffice.
  9. Ok, that could at least be some of the compression issue, if not all! When you replaced the valves did you inspect the the valve seats in the heads? Did you inspect the valve guides for cracks? Cracks I the guides could weaken the guides or they could have been deformation that allows enough movement in the valves so they don’t seat properly. Additionally new valves need ground to mate the valve seat! And I always like to lap my valves into their seats as good insurance of a good seal!
  10. All good thoughts! Wrongway let me ask this! I forgot that you had the valve issue until Bear mentioned it. So when you broke them and replaced them, did you as Bear asked redo the head? That’s one, but two did you have the new valves ground as well? And did you lap any of them?
  11. You two are hilarious! I didn’t get any warranty! I came with a buyer beware notice!🥴
  12. No sorry needed! I’m not the best writer in the world! Sometimes what’s in my head doesn’t always come out right in writing! So I easily may not have said it well enough!
  13. I agree Bear, but I didn’t say the intake caused the compression issue. I said I would pull the intake and drop the exhaust manifolds so he could see the valves! Reason being without a borescope not many other ways the see the valves without pulling the heads. Because if it’s not valves it only leaves rings, and zero for a ring issue is not likely! And inspecting the gasket when removing it to me is just logical!
  14. Yeah, I don’t think a leak down is going to answer any questions! I also don’t think this is relative to the timing set! There may be a problem there, but that’s not causing this oddity of compression numbers! The first thing that comes to mind is the intake manifold! The odds of both heads having a gasket leak in matching position cylinders is highly doubtful. Plus the variation of cylinder pressures could be rings, but coupled with the zero pressure readings of 5 & 6!? If it were mine I would bite the bullet and pull the intake & drop the exhaust manifold! Then you can see the valves. When you if you pull the intake pay close attention to the intake gasket on both heads! Most likely there will be signs of leakage or poor sealing at 5 & 6 if there was gasket failure. If you find nothing there, you’re going to have to pull the heads! If you do any or all of that let us know what you find & we’ll try to help you plan the next move.
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