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Last Indian

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Last Indian last won the day on December 10

Last Indian had the most liked content!

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About Last Indian

  • Rank
    Century Club
  • Birthday 11/08/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    Pretty much anything in motion, architectural design & work, sports, space & and why humans fail to learn from clear & obviously results of past generations!

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Gary
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    2000
  • Car
    Grand Prix
  • Trim
    GT
  • Engine
    3800
  • Style
    Sedan
  • Color
    Dark Navy Blue

Recent Profile Visitors

1,290 profile views
  1. That’s true! When I checked my email at home I had a notification from the site for both JustA6 and Ringo64 for email notice.
  2. Cooling jets cool the underside crown of the piston to help control combustion temps. That’s what I’m talkin bout! Kind of my point in past posts! A quick note with more aluminum motors being produced and the advent of things like oil cooling jets, be careful if any of you judge oil by color or opacity! Aluminum oxide has now clouded that result to some degree masking the oxidation properties with a blackening effect, (aluminum oxide). You’ll need to change how you look at it.
  3. Copy that! Did you see the piston cooling jets? We don’t torque bolts any more! We tighten them to an angle of rotation ! aluminum block, steel insert sleeves, oil jets and soon electric motors! It’s true the world is flat!
  4. FWD ground pounder - Last Indian

    Love it buddy!
  5. Guitarsextreme, et all. First let me say that a fair portion of us on this site are here because we love cars and all that goes with that. As a result we take an active interest in taking care of our equipment. That in itself aids in the longevity of it even tho we may all do things different and vary how often we do them! I doubt that many if any put cheap gas, speedway or the like in our cars other than maybe the beater. No matter what the news has said or you’ve read all fuels are not created equal. Likewise all base stock oils are not created equal either. Engine technologies have changes so much since the late 1950s, but the changes in the last two decades is staggering. Between emissions, metallurgies, fuel changes, oil chemistries, unreal. Just as a point of interest here are some pictures from a project I ran in late 2010 through 2012 on a 3600 Buick. Not sure how many of you have seen this motor sliced and diced.
  6. FWD ground pounder - Last Indian

    And the bending continues! Next up some real fun tig welding !
  7. Automobile 101

    Yes at least, but I think back into the 60s. Anything before 2000 was a 3 digit code which made year differentiation harder.
  8. 540RAT Blog

    Thanks Frosty! Unless you tell me different, I will assume the engine to be a standard GTO 396 engine and whether 325 or 348 hp is somewhat irrelevant here. So the motor is broken in at 4K. In whatever oil you use I would first recommend at least a 10w40, although if it was mine I would run a 15w40. Valvoline is an excellent oil and has a good additive package. With the motor being broken in the Max life or the Shell Rotella will work great and be more than adequate for every day use and even a few times when you’re not so gentle. That said, never go beyond 3500 miles for an oil change. Now this part is three fold! So first you’ll need to buy a bottle of Lucas engine break in additive TB Zinc-plus if you what to do any of theses. So if you really want to beat on the motor for some reason add 3oz. to the oil. If you want to or need to extend the drain interval add 2oz to the engine at 1500 miles. If you just don’t feel comfortable with the Zinc level for protection add 1oz at every 1000 mile interval. The reason for this is simple oil additive packages way over additize an oil in the beginning. As heat, oxidation, shear and surface interface of metals and chemistry take place the chemistries are depleted. So in short you start a fresh oil change with way over additized oil and end with way under additized oil. By adding in some chemistry into the oil 1000 or 2000 miles into an oil change is very beneficial to the engine and it’s oil. So you see you don’t need the Zinc in the beginning because you have 800 or more ppm, but at 2000 or 3000 how much of that is left? The protection of the engine is not done by 800 ppm of Zinc at once! Only a portion of that protects and then is used up and than more come to replace it till at the end of the drain interval there may only be 40 ppm left or maybe nothing.
  9. 540RAT Blog

    Walburn, let me ask a couple things. The motor is newly built? If so do you know the bearing clearances? Do you have a mechanical oil psi gage connected to this engine, I.E. direct oil line no sending unit? If so what are the psi reading at cold start up, warmed up idle, driving say 40 - 50 mph.
  10. Automobile 101

    Very good point Frosty! A couple of things that can help with preserving tires or at least helping to insure they stay as good as possible for the time you run them is this. When you can keep them in a dark place, so store the car in a garage with no window if possible or keep the car covered in a garage. Also when possible keep the car of the ground. Both are a little tough to do regularly, unless you’re anal like me, but it does help.
  11. 540RAT Blog

    I’m not really sure what you are looking for? The 540rat blog has some fact, some fiction, some hype and a lot of look at me! He claims to be a mechanical engineer and no doubt is. He also claims to belong to the SAE, and probably does and as such should know there are more SAE engine test than you can shake a stick at. As a result there are more papers written about the results of that testing than you or I would ever want to read. So I’m not sure what he is trying to accomplish. I like to talk cars and pass along 50 plus years of that experience, but I hate to talk about me from a look at me view, so I will talk about my company. Before retiring in 2016 I worked for The Lubrizol Corp. one of the largest additive companies in the world, not the largest, but one of the largest. They started in 1928, at that time there was no engine, transmission, rear axle etc. testing, so they started their own. For decades they were the go to source for testing and evaluating oils and their effect on components. That is until, like everything, somebody wanted a piece so other testing facilities started cropping up. Then the SAE got involved and here we are and that’s all ok! The point here is 540 rat is a little late to the party. In the late 1970s and through the 80s I designed and help design several bench tests to measure oils effect on engine components wear. They are now standard SAE tests. 540rat seems to think that his credentials justify his opinion, they don’t, only proven facts do and he really doesn’t have that. He states that wear protection is the number 1 concern of judging a motor oil. Well what is wear protection? Just adding a mineral oil too two moving plates reduces wear! That’s a viscosity test, so it’s not wear protection, but a hydrodynamic layer. He confuses a lot of facts to force a result. Is he correct? In some ways yes, others no. As I originally said 800ppm ZDDP in oil is quite adequate, but there are other wear protection chemistries, molybdenum for one. Although touted as a fuel economy additive it reduces wear better than ZDDP, but molecularly functions completely different. The original issue with older engines occurred with the reduction of ZDDP, but also the addition of emissions equipment. These two changes caused problems with tried and true metallurgies. Once those metallurgies were addressed most issues subsided. Now the same issues are plaguing the diesel industry for the same reasons. So I could keep beating my gums, but again I ask, what is your concern? I would like to help, but I’m not clear as to the concern.
  12. Pro, you are right! My oversight, it should have been 24, and yes could be as low as 6. Isopropyl isn’t the problem to me, it will dissolve oil deposits as I said. The problem to me is the higher volatiles they refer to in the second document being in the crank case. One hiccup past a ring and it’s by by. I’ve seen it with heavy fuel dilution, not pretty! I have no doubt you are a careful man when you do your work and you know you motors well! That’s not necessarily true for many others. For me, I have access to other sources that will actually do a better job than those mentioned. That’s why I said a sta-bil type & PEA fuel additive.
  13. Well let’s see. There are two concerns I personally have with Seafoam in the oil. One they spin two versions of the product. One says it has no detergents the other says it has high detergents! The second is it’s volatile. Putting that kind of explosive blend in a crankcase is Russian Roulette. If you read the msds it has 25% isopropyl in it, which on it’s own is a very effective hydrocarbon dissolver, but there are clearly other higher aromatics in what they call their hydrocarbon blend from their own description. Then as I mentioned there’s the whole viscosity issue. For those who use it and like it that’s good, just not in my motors! Yes! In my opinion for their performance & price point I like Sta-bil & Regane. Regane is basically a pure PEA product, with a vehicle like pale 40. I worked with the identical material for 3 years on a project to design a deliver system for OEM dealers to use in addressing deposits in induction system and on the back of valves of GDI motors that suffered form the problems and were under warranty that I described earlier, this was before PEA was available for the consumer. JustA6, seal swell can be very precarious! So I would say this, yes, but only with the understanding that it might make the seal fail completely. Seal swell basically goes after the plasticizer in a product. To much and basically the molecular coupling will unravel, but that’s true even when added to the oil. Also remember most seals today are double lipped, which means the inner lip most likely will not be exposed to any seal swell because of positive pressure. If I were going to try what you are asking I would dilute the seal swell 10 to 1 with the type of oil in the device then add the appropriate amount into the oil inside after about 300 to 500 miles I would drain the oil and add fresh. A side bar note, if you’re not aware of it most high mileage oils and transmission oils have seal swell in them. Sea-Foam-Motor-Treatment-SDS-v20161205-ENG.pdf Seafoam motor treatment copy.docx
  14. Automobile 101

    Right you are Walburn! It’s always on the front side of the tire and expressed in the week number, two digit and last two digit of the year. Like 1217, which would be week 12 of 2017.
  15. 31pontiac's '31 Pontiac

    OK! You’ve been havin some! Brings back some fond memories! One thing I would mention. Since you’re going Hot Rod, good choice, there is a paint that you might look at for the frame, if you’re not doing body color on the frame. Hammerite rust cap. This stuff has a very unique look and is the toughest paint I’ve ever used.
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