Jump to content

Last Indian

Plus Members
  • Content count

    165
  • Avg. Content Per Day

    0
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Last Indian last won the day on October 11

Last Indian had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

60 Excellent

2 Followers

About Last Indian

  • Rank
    Century Club
  • Birthday 11/08/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    Pretty much anything in motion, architectural design & work, sports, space & and why humans fail to learn from clear & obviously results of past generations!

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Gary
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    2000
  • Car
    Grand Prix
  • Trim
    GT
  • Engine
    3800
  • Style
    Sedan
  • Color
    Dark Navy Blue

Recent Profile Visitors

1,114 profile views
  1. FWD ground pounder - Last Indian

    Finally getting back to this been a busy year. One of the areas that deteriorates in this generation of GP’s is the rocker area. So while mine have been coated internally and foamed filled the the rocker brackets can still be an issue. These brackets carry the polyurethane rocker covers that finish the bottom of the car. These were pulled, sandblasted and coated with a special paint. Re-polish of the catalytic shield. Upgrade of the lateral bars threaded couplings to 316-L stainless steel. Repainted engine.
  2. Car Production Ends for GM in Australia

    If the dinosaurs could think and reason, this must be how they felt as the giant meteor hurled towards Earth. Knowing the end was near! 😩
  3. It’s a little bit like Midland Michigan and Dow Chemical. Except Lubrizol is smaller and so is Wicklife!
  4. Frosty you hit the nail on the head! A Tesla in a combustion engine world appears great and cheap from an energy standpoint, but just watch what happens when the shift to all EVs takes place! Right now more than .40 cents of a gallon of gas is tax, about a fifth of the overall unit cost, but the tax on electric consumption is between 25 % & 30 % right now. Without gas consumption at its current levels something will have to change. So add 20% to 25% or 30% and you’ll have 45% or 50%, but wait you’ll consume about half as much energy by unit so the tax rate per unit will have to be even high, but now on your whole bill not just what you use for your car! And it gets worse! This will be the proverbial carrot in front of the horse, once they have gotten everyone to change, or should I say forced, the cost and added cost will skyrocket and be implemented! Fees for battery disposal, waste stream charges, electronic disposal fees and the list will go on and the fees will dwarf what is charged now. Wait till you see the problems that occur with these cars from winter temperatures and salt. Plus whatever mileage you think you’ll get, cut it by a third in winter, maybe more. Between needed heat, and the impact that cold has on components and the fact that electrical energy is zapped at low temperatures, things aren’t as electrifying as folks would have you believe. Think about this for just a little while! How efficient is it to spend money to acquire and refine an energy that will do work, but instead consume that energy to make another energy to do the same work? No matter what anyone says with regard to the efficiency of a power generation plants, it’s not! As that statement defies physics at its core. Oh I know that gas and diesel cost more for a unit of work than electricity, but only because the profit margin is ten fold that of electricity for the manufacture. In the end we’re just screwed!!
  5. Frosty I feel bad for all of us, but for you guys (UAW) the most! Unfortunately yearly all Americans are clueless as to what the ramifications of this is going to be! The ecological waste streams will more than triple. After about ten years into the mainstream production of these cars the maintenance issues will more than double and those costs will make conventional car maintenance look cheap! Two of every three car related industries will be in financial trouble. This is all being driven by big energy and the sad part is no one believes it and those that do say it will be cheaper! Have they looked at their electric bill? I could go on, but to what point?
  6. Yes! Lubrizol is in Wickliffe, but actually off RT-2, 90 & 2 split at the Euclid exchange, 90 goes a little South and 2 goes North. you can actually see what we call the oil can from RT-2 on the south side.
  7. USPS rant

    Hey I saw my mailman do a loop around the cul-da-sac this afternoon, mail in one out of another than into another, I think it was your package!!
  8. No. Lubrizol, the world headquarters/R&D.
  9. Well I did work for a chemical additive company for 39 years! perks,You know!
  10. Pro, it will work with Dot 3 fluid or even acidic fluids, gas etc. https://www.thomassci.com/Laboratory-Supplies/Pipet-Bulbs/_/8AFF0743-D0A6-421B-A8B2-85EFD4A9E64C?q=Rubber Bulb I've used it with dot 3, 4, 5.1 and 5 as well as battery acid, gas, stoddard, textile spirits and lacquer thinner. If you what to try one and can't get one or get it easily let me know. I'll get you one!
  11. Pro, I couldn't agree more! Basically it's similar to gravity bleeding, but way faster or more like siphoning, but much better. When I ran pure silicone in my Z brake system the silicone was very high end, used in the MK46 torpedo built in Cleveland and used by the US Navy which tested it in the Mariana trench off Seattle. This fluid was horrible to bleed, infinite for air. Anyway this was the only way I could bleed that fluid. See attached photos. Once you fill the master cylinder you leave the cap just sitting over the opening and you must obviously keep it filled so the bottom outlets don't come uncovered. You simply squeeze the vac ball and release. It then sucks fluid from the master cylinder, fills the ball, squeeze again the check valve closes preventing fluid from going backwards, but pushes the fluid in the ball out into the container. When you release the ball again it sucks more fluid! The bleeder valve just needs cracked a little, but the threads should be coated with anti-seize to prevent air from coming in around the treads.
  12. Frosty, SynPower was the better product in my opinion. It was a full synthetic, but not silicone. Unfortunately Valvoline stopped making it at least three or four years ago. For current day I would use the Bosch if you’re not going to use silicone. The Bosch ESI 6 is a synthetic, but I don’t believe it’s a full synthetic, but again they don’t say. Chemical companies are very protective of what they tell about a product for several reasons, so sometimes I can only look at the specs of a product and make a calculated guess based on what I know. The Bosch product says it surpasses 5.1 brake fluid and it does! It’s even comparable to Dot 5 (silicone) for wet and dry boiling point, and compared to some Dot 5, its better in that regard. Attached are a couple docs about the Bosch product. https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/auto/brakes/esi6-brake-fluid Silicone is nice because it is hydrophobic where as ester based fluids are hydroscopic, also, silicone won’t damage paint were as esters attack paint. I ran silicone fluid in my Z, but to tell you to do that is tough. There is a lot more to running silicone fluid as a brake fluid than just buying some at the parts store! So if that were to be your choice I’ll share my experience an knowledge, but for now I’ll assume not. Also a little FYI, I’m not sure how you do brakes, aka bleeding, but most folks that I know make it way to complicated. The simplest way is fill the master cylinder reservoir, dah, using a vacuum ball with two check valves, one side in not out the other out not in, a container for brake fluid to bleed into and Tygon tubing to connect tightly over the end of the bleeder valve and the other end to the vac ball. Also Tygon for the other end of the vac ball to the container. Starting with the farthest brake, with Tygon/vac ball connected to bleeder valve loosen the bleeder squeeze vac ball, make sure check valves are in the right orientation. The vac will start to pull fluid, squeeze the ball again, the fluid that entered the ball will be pushed into the container below and new fluid will be pulled into the ball. Prior to starting this you should put anti seize on all the bleeder valve threads and reinstall into caliper. This prevents air from getting pulled around the threads appearing as though there is air in the system. In using the clear Tygon tubing you can see the air bubbles as well as when they stop. If you can’t get the brake fluid or the vacuum ball and Tygon tubing let me know and I’ll get them to you. ESI6 Brake Fluid Flyer.pdfESI6 Brake Fluid Flyer.pdf ESI6 Brake Fluid Flyer.pdf
  13. Frosty, when you redo the brake lines I presume you will change the fluid? So food for thought, the best non silicone fluid I ever use was valvolines SynPower 5.1, but it's not available any longer, but this past winter I redid the Indians brakes because I replaced all the lines in the car. Which didn't make me happy because the SynPower was in the car. So the search was on. What I found was pretty close to SynPower. It's Bosch ESI6 and Autozone carries it. You might take a look at it.
  14. LeBron James is the self-driving car's new MVP

    From a marketing perspective I agree wholeheartedly. I'm not the norm though! So I know why they do it, it's just wasted on me. There are hidden agendas in most businesses and they will prevail since most of the sheep eat the grass not knowing its laced with dioxins! You might have to think about that for a minute!
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.