Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

dues70's 1970 Pontiac Bonneville

2020 July
of the Month


  • Content Count

  • Avg. Content Per Day

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Wrongway last won the day on January 29

Wrongway had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

35 Excellent


About Wrongway

  • Rank
    Century Club
  • Birthday 07/12/1975

Profile Information

  • Location
    In a van, down by the river
  • Interests
    Vintage car's, truck's, motorcycle's

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
  • Gender
  • Year
  • Car
    Grand Prix
  • Trim
  • Engine
  • Style
  • Color
    Old & Reddish

Recent Profile Visitors

856 profile views
  1. Thanks Indian, I wouldn't be at this point if it wasn't for you and the others helping to steer me down the right roads bro. I honesty don't know. When I had the machine shop do the block and heads I didn't ask what brands he used. I no that he said I had 2.11/1.77 valves and never thought anything else about it until a post by frosty back in January. I no I'm now using Melling valves but no idea about the seals. When the new shop inspects the heads I would think they would check seals, hope so anyways. I'm hoping to hear back from them today or tomorrow. I will let you know as soon as I hear from them. But it does make sense being I trashed so many of the valves bro.
  2. Wow, ok you just scared the hell out of me brother Black Top! lol. Maybe I shouldn't disassemble the pump. If you say I need to then I will or can I just flush it? If that was an exhaust valve seal, it should be ok after the shop does the valve job right? I did cut the oil filter open. Its always so much easier on the video lol. I found very few metallic specs. I'm thinking maybe from breaking it in. But very few. Everything else is looking at this point. I did however find some white engine paint in the filter, just specs and little piece's from when the engine was painted. See what y'all think. vid 1.MOV vid 3.MOV
  3. My mistake and apology Bear, I didn't remember who suggested it. Thank you for the pics and I will find a way or buy the tool to cut it open bud. I replaced the gears and chain with a new set on 1st tare down. So that may have been hiding in there someplace. Thanks bro and yes, finally good news lol.
  4. Ohhh btw, I did find this in the oil pan. I have no clue what it is or where it came from. Any ideas? Its bright white but matte not glossy. Its plastic, not porcelain so I'm guessing its not from a plug.
  5. Ok so great news so far. I have found NO metal in the oil. I did actually expect to find I tiny bit from all off the new parts breaking in. But none! I even ran it through a filter. I also shut the lights off and used a flash light. So now comes the stupid questions lol. Id still like to open up the oil pump and look/flush it out. Any danger in doing that? Also, it was suggested that I should cut the oil filter in half. I think by Last Indian, how can I cut it open without creating metal dust during the cut?
  6. Huh, glass, never heard that one before but makes sense. For priming I also use the shaft from an old distributor. For the rear main seal I used a Butler performance 1 piece. It was hands down the fastest and easiest iv ever used or seen. That’s a brilliant way to “self aline” the timing cover. If mine are missing I’ll give that a try bro. Thanks you for the tips
  7. Yeah bro, I number stamped all of my main caps when I rebuilt it last year. Thanks bro
  8. So you wouldn't recommend taping paint sticks together and using it for a straight edge? Gotcha. lol. Just joking. I was thinking about using a carpenter square that was my grandfathers. Its about 3' long. Not sure what else I could use. And thanks frosty one, I hadn't thought about checking the decks for flatness. I will for sure now bro. I should hopefully have it out within the next couple of hours. Yeah bro, it sucks pulling a motor that should have been good to go so I feel for ya brother.
  9. Even the side mirror's are broken off or shattered. That poor little baby girl.
  10. Yeah, I am going to finish pulling the engine and tare it down the rest of the way so I can clean it up. The bottom end was rebuilt when I tore it down last year. At that point I had sent the block and heads to the machine shop. Had the block cleaned up, bored .30 the crank turned down .10 and the heads rebuilt using all new parts. The only parts that did not get completely replaced were the pushrods (which I should have and are new now) the crank (which was redone) and the harmonic balancer. Every other part in this engine has been replaced or rebuild using new parts. I'm already over $6k into just the engine. With less then 50mi on it. Honestly, I just cant afford to send the block back and have somebody else rebuild it. If I have to go that route it'll be pushed back to next year at the earliest. I'm getting ready to go drop the heads off. He said he should be able to inspect them this week. If there is anything y'all can think of that I need to look at other then making sure the pistons all come up the same height or anything that you want or need pics of please let me know. Thanks again everybody
  11. Yes sir Bear, you are correct. Thanks JUSTA, I am to. I don't think I would've found that without all of you guys helping and instructing me. So the heads are going to the machine shop tomorrow for inspecting and to have new valves fitted.
  12. So I pulled the heads today I thought y'all would be interested.
  13. Hey bud, not sure if this will help you or not but Ames Performance offers the brake booster rebuild kit. I've got a 63 GP and I replaced it with the universal one in the link below so I had a double bowl. JUSTA thought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-7-Dual-Power-Brake-Booster-Center-Finned-Master-Cylinder-street-rod-gm-/273463516039?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49293
  14. Thank you Bear. The smoke machine was really simple. I can put up a post with instruction's on how I made it if you think it might help somebody else. Just tell me where on here to post it lol. So should I just pull the heads and check the valves or send to the machine shop for inspection? Since 5 & 6 are next to each other on the cam do you think there is damage to it? I did pull and inspect the cam when I replaced the exhaust valves, I didn't see any damage. But what's your thoughts. Also bro, I know one of those push rods that were damaged came from #6. I think the other was from #5 but I honesty don't remember. I do no the broken lifter was cylinder #8
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.