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TWO LANE BLACK TOP last won the day on July 10

TWO LANE BLACK TOP had the most liked content!

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  • Birthday September 7

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Hot Rod cars motorcycles engine building Anything mechanical . Jack of all trades .Custom Fabrication ,welding ,Machine work . Firm believer anything can be fixed . Navy veteran. Do everything from fixing carburetors to AM FM broadcast and cellular phone towers . Have owned several Pontiacs thru the years.Currently own 1996 Firebird and 1997 firebird Formula that I bought new.

Forever Pontiac

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    Kenith McIntosh
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    firebird formula WS6
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    bright red

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  1. Yes.. but give it a few seconds to be sure everything is loaded up good before letting off the throttle.... Can run good for a really long time like that... it's almost normal for high mileage engine to do that. Just don't jerk it around...you will be OK for awhile as long as it has good oil pressure and don't run it hot...
  2. As I mentioned with the throttle and brake thing it is an exellent way to help gauge engine health anyway..... Is it ever going to turn winter or fall even...here in NC...??
  3. Personally I would be extremely weary about putting a supercharger kit on any engine with 200,000 plus miles on it..... That being said...If you do supercharge it....Like Frosty said don't go crazy with the boost...Even then at the very least you will probably blow out the front and rear oil seals...Most blown engines have forged connecting rods and crankshafts...forged pistons with wider ring landings and beefier rings to help control the blowby better with the added cylinder pressure...On a high mileage engine chances are the added boost is going to cause exsessive blow by past the oil and compression rings into the crankcase and as a result the front and rear oil seals will wind up paying the price....Also any slack in the bottom end will for sure show up in a fairly short order..(Rod and Main bearings...Wrist pins..ETC...) One way you can get an idea if there is any slack at all in the bottom end...Is to get someone to hold the brakes with the car in gear..by hand under the hood Open the throttle up just enough to load everything up real good...But don't get the wheels spinning....Then let off the throttle real quick (You will have to listen real carefully)..If You here the slightest clatter at all when you let off the throttle that means the rod bearings are getting loose....
  4. The quad four engine is pretty much a throw away engine..... NOT designed to be rebuilt...GM 3.4 V6 engines and V8 Northstar Cadillac engines among others are the same way....Although they can be rebuilt and make good power if they are done correctly...The cost and man hours...Aggravation.... Associated with doing so...Not mention finding a competent machine shop....Makes them completely emotionally and economically unviable for the average person to do so.......
  5. These are actual GM Pontiac service manuals....Not reprints.... Hope this helps

    2018 Chaleston WV Rod Run and Doo Wop

    The Blue Ridge Parkway rocks...Know every nook and cranny from Roanoke VA...to Asheville NC... Definitely a nice drive... well worth doing..... (look at it as pretty much my private road course)

    New Pontiac Owner

  8. LogDog I'm not trying to discourage you either...This is a major project....Don't like to see anyone spend a lot of time and money.... Only to be dissatisfied with the results..... I am not familiar with ZZperformance but if they offer a complete kit for your application or can point you in the right direction that would be the way to go... If Last Indian recommends them.... It would without a doubt be worth checking into...
  9. Has been a few years since I've had a 231 apart....That was a series 2 supercharged engine from my brothers 40th anniversary GTP....If I remember correctly the main difference between the series 2 and the series 3 is the fly by wIre system and maybe the supercharger model or housing to accommodate that..??? I don't think that I have ever redone a series 1....But do know that series 1 has a taller deck height..?? As far as the forged crankshaft that makes perfect sense too me..... Again if I remember correctly the pistons in the S/C engine are different that being the size of the dish..(smaller but deeper) to lower the compression ratio and compensate for the different compression height..?? With full floating wrist pins..Compared to the naturally aspirated engine...Also the ring landings are wider and the rings beefier to help control the blowby better with the boost..(basically when turning a negative into a positive with the added cylinder pressure).. Again not 100% sure but think the front and rear oil seals may be different too...Also the connecting rods are shorter than the N/A and are forged powdered metal..?? Also am pretty sure that the balance shaft is different....(Heavier)..Am also thinking that the harmonic balancer is different than the N/A engine too.... Please feel free to correct me on any of those details or anything I that I might have left out or be incorrect on...I am always willing to learn.... Knowledge is power.... TLB
  10. I'm pretty sure you will need the cylinder heads also...With the 3.8 supercharged engine the fuel injectors are located in the heads....With the naturally aspirated version the injectors are located in the intake manifold.......Pretty much the only parts that are the same between them is the block and the crankshaft......As Last Indian indicated........

    Grooved rotor??? WTF?

    Honestly weather or not it actually made any difference is up for debate As to why they did it on a street car ..Who knows......

    Grooved rotor??? WTF?

    Way back in the day when we ran enduro races... At one of the local short tracks around here... the rules required us to run stock brake and suspension parts so some of the guys would cut the rotors like that in order to help vent the gasses in an attempt to gain a little extra braking power when the rotors were red hot....Weather it actually worked or not is debatable......... That's what it looks like to me........
  13. There is no set time or mileage for rebuilding... Realistically as long as it is running OK....With good oil pressure and no overheating issues you are probably better off to just leave it alone...For example they use torque to yield bolts..95% of the time they cannot be reused...New bolts for it can be a bit pricey..Chances are that during the disassembly the threads in the block will come out with the bolts and will require most if not all the bolt holes to be helicoiled which in turn causes other problems with the thin castings which are very prone to cracking anyway...If you do get lucky and the threads stay in the block if you try to Chase the threads with a tap to attempt to clean them up... it will loosen them to the point that they won't tighten up or will strip out The cylinder head is very prone to cracking in the combustion chamber's between the valves they also have weak valve guides that is one of the main reasons they tend to burn alot of oil....The head castings are so thin that even cutting it just enough to get a flat surface for the head gasket to seal can render it useless...GM has three or four different head bolt tightening sequences depending on the year and casting numbers if it is not followed exactly the head gasket is almost guaranteed to fail in a fairly short order... There are too many idiosyncrasies with rebuilding the Quad four engine to even try to list them all...That is why I have only mentioned some of the most obvious ones.....Again I am not trying to be negative just realistic... Also noticed that you are in Greensboro... I'm in Winston-Salem

    heater/ac fan will not shut off

    Yes you can test the switches First thing to do is unhook the wIre harness from the switch..If you can pull the unit to access the back of the switch it will make it alot easier to do... Once you gain access to poles that the harness plugs into....Using a multimeter on the OHM setting place the black lead on the ground pole of the switch...(switch may have more than two poles... One of them is ground... Possible may be marked) Place the red lead on the other pole with the switch in the OFF position...should show OL...If it does not that means something inside the switch is broke and needs to be replaced...Can do the same thing with the continuity setting on the meter..Black lead on the ground..Red lead to the other pole with switch in the OFF position if it beebs means switch is bad... Am sure there are other members out there that can better explain the procedure.....

    heater/ac fan will not shut off

    I suspect the blower switch...But before you start changing switches....Make sure that there are no wires under the dash or under the hood that are chafed or rubbing together causing it to pull unwanted power from another source....Not 100% sure but think that you might be able to just get the heater fan switch by itself without having to get the whole dash unit...Would be worth checking into.... One of my friends Grand prix...
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