TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Have been away for awhile... But I'm back now........Does the engine have an oil scavenger tray in the bottom...?? If so It's very possible that one counter weights on the crankshaft might be hitting it or rubbing against it once on every revolution....

There no harm in opening the oil pump to look inside for any contaminants...When you pull the cover just make sure that you don't damage the paper gasket...The gasket thickness is instrumental in determining the clearance of the gears inside the pump..Also mark the gears with a sharpie so you can be sure that they are oriented in the same position with each other as they were to begin with..Upon reassembly...A very slight amount of wear is normal on the cover...Something else that is often overlooked that is definitely worth checking...When you reinstall the oil pump..Drop the distributor in w

As Bear mentioned you might have gotten lucky and only have the exhaust valve sealing issues...Since you're going to have to pull the heads anyway..It would be a good idea after the heads are off...To roll the engine over by hand to make sure that all the pistons are coming up to the same height in the bores... If they all don't have the same distance from the deck to the top of the pistons that would be a sure sign that you have a bent or kinked rod...Pay special attention to #s 5 and 6....if they are all the same height (none of them lower in the bore than the rest of them)...You're more th

Wrongway.. You can use an old spark plug and knock the ceramic center out of it with a hammer and a punch and grind or cut the electrode off and weld a Male fitting to the remaining outer part of the plug...That fits your chuck on the air hose and use it for pressurizing the cylinder.. Did the original valves have a three or four degree angle valve grind on them..?? What about the valve seats..?? It's not too late

Wrongway.. You can use an old spark plug and knock the ceramic center and the metal electrode out of it with a hammer and a punch and grind or cut the electrode off the bottom and weld a Male fitting to the remaining outer part of the plug...That fits your chuck on the air hose and use it for pressurizing the cylinder.. Did the original valves have a three or four degree angle valve grind on them..?? What about the valve seats..?? It's not too late to disassemble the heads and grind And/or lap the valves in as there is only a very narrow area (only a few thousanths wide) that ac

Wrongway... If you suspect a valve sealing issue...A good accurate way to check if your having valve sealing/bent valve/weak springs issues without tearing the engine down...Remove all the rockers...Then take a long straight edge and lay it across the tops all the valve stems....They should all be the same height..If there is some of the valves that are lower than the others by .002 to .003 or more...(Use a feeler gauge between the tops of the valve stems and the straight edge)..That is a real good indicator of a weak valve spring/slightly bent valve stem..ETC..which will cause the valves

I wasn't 100% sure....Thanks for clarifying.. I learned something.... I don't want to post inaccurate info if at all possible...

You're Welcome happy to help.... If your having an issue with the gas not getting from the tank to the fuel pump and you want to run (not drive) the car...You can disconnect the line running from the tank to the pump and run a temporary line out of a gas can right to the input side of the fuel pump and it will pick up the fuel just like it would if it was coming from the tank....

The shift pattern changed to PRNDSL in 1965 (Hydramatic)...Cars equipped with the 2 speed Powerflow..(Pontiac nomenclature for the Powerglide)..PRNDL.. I don't know if changing to a later model neutral safety switch...Would be beneficial for you or not....

The earlier Pontiac engines are reverse flow cooling...I'm pretty sure (not 100%) the changeover to the conventional water flow was some time in real late 1964 or The beginning of the 1965 model year...Because of that the earlier cylinder heads won't interchange or Visa versa with the later model engines...

Yes it would work....If the floats are good in the carburetor (not heavy) so it will maintain the correct fuel level in the bowl and operate the needle and seat correctly to meter the proper amount of gas and not constantly flood or not run at all.... Why not just run a temporary soft fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor...?? You should be able to get a couple of male fittings with the the correct threads to screw into the pump and the carb at any auto parts store then clamp the rubber gas hose on to the fittings....Just make sure that it isn't on the exhaust manifold or r

Now that things have calmed down some...I Have been given the green light to proceed with the build.. Upon further inspection the cylinder heads that the owner wanted to use are pretty much garbage...The combustion chambers are horribly pitted and can not be cleaned up enough to use in a blower motor without fear of detonation....As you can see the area between the valves (1st pic )...So I came up with another engine (454)..that is donating the heads and maybe the bottom end too...Over the next week or so..I will install hardened valve seats (the heads are 1971 LS-5 non EGR casting # 6722

Didn't get the Blue Angles or the Thunderbirds...Got Airforce one flyover instead...

Cool car...Hate to see that you're having transmission issues...I have a couple of questions....First off I'm not trying nor do I want to come across as being a smart ass..or condescending in anyway shape or form... So please don't take it that way...I also don't want to put up inaccurate Info if at all possible.... Are you 100% sure that the trans is a Dynaflow and not a Hydramatic..Or a Powerglide...?? I ask this because Dynaflows were exclusive to the Buick brand and were only used in Buicks...The exception to this is when there was a catastrophic Fire (Burned to the ground) at th

No haters here...Welcome to the site......