TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Nice car A lot of reman Pontiac waterpumps...Have too much clearance between the impeller and the walls of the waterpump itself...Also between the impeller and the divider plate ..Or possibly both....Have seen it quite a few times over the years especially on Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs...Can cause the water to cavitate inside of the pump instead of consitantly pushing water thru the cooling system through the whole RPM range....Might look like the water is flowing good at idle...Doesn't mean that it is pushing enough water volume fast enough to get a real good transfer of heat from the block...Might be something to take a real close hard look at...... One other thing changing the pulley size to try to speed up the pump really won't do any good...As the impeller clearance issues themselves will not allow the pump to have the pressure,volume and speed of water flow in gallons per minute that it is supposed to...No matter how fast you turn it

Easiest thing to do is get the yoke with the turbo 400...Then change the U joint and the old yoke from the drive shaft...If the trans missions are same overall length...The drive shaft will work without having to alter it....

Here is some info on hydraulic fittings....Thought It might be of some help....

Just be aware...The outer rings on old balancers tend to move around as the rubber deteriorates....Makes setting the timing correctly..Almost impossible..... Need to find TDC manualy See if the timing Mark on the damper lines up with zero on the tab...If not Then remark the damper.....To line up with the zero on the timing tab....That will be the actual TDC.....

Very possible since the tank was cleaned out that it might have picked up residual trash from the fuel lines or maybe even the tank.....Even though the carb was rebuilt...When it is stumbling does it seem like it might be trying to flood..?? stong gas smell?? Running way rich..?? Or is it lean.?? And starving for fuel.??...Very possible could have picked up some trash and gotten stuck in the needle and seat in the carb..One thing you might try..May or may not work...with the engine warm and running...Open the throttle by Hand at the carb to about half way or so...the with your other hand force the choke closed for a couple seconds..then let off the choke and the throttle... allow to idle down...The extra gas forced into the fuel bowl with the choke closed and the throttle open..Sometimes can float out anything that might be trapped in the needle and seat..But like I said may or may not work...might be worth a try though....

When you bottomed out the rockers....You more than likely have way too much preload on the lifters...Even though they are hydraulic you can't just lock them down..Can cause all kinds of problems..(Erratic idle..Won't rev like they should...Among lots of other issues some of them severe).. Best thing to do is pull the valve covers and readjust all the valves...Starting with #1 cylinder back both the rockers off..intake and exhaust..Just enough so they are slightly loose...Using a socket and a breaker bar on the crank bolt rotate the engine by hand clockwise (Remove all the plugs will rotate fairly easy). Watch the exhaust valve when it opens half way.. Stop right there..Using two fingers move the push rod on the intake side up and down while SLOWLY tightening the intake rocker down just as soon as the push rod stops moving up and down and there is no slack...Stop right there... That is zero lash...Should not be pressing down on the lifter at all... Once you get to that point tighten down the rocker nut one half turn ... Then rotate the engine while watching the intake valve when it opens all the way then closes halfway... Stop right there... Do the same thing with the pushrod on the exhaust side up and down when you have zero lash...tighten the rocker nut one half turn...Do the same thing on all the cylinders...Be sure to watch the valves is very important,..exhaust half way down set intake...Intake valve all the way open then close half way..set exhaust...Repeat on all the cylinders...Might have to go thru it a couple times to get exactly right..... Please..Let me know what happens....also please post here on this thread so everyone can see

Were the cylinder heads redone.??..Were Valves ground and sealing good.?? Are all the valve stems the same height.?? With new matching valve springs locks and retainers and not coil binding??...Hydraulic or solid lifters.??..Also what method did you use to set the valve lash..??

Sometimes the rubber hose running to the caliper from the hard line collapses on the inside...Will look normal from the outside...Doesn't allow the pressure to release from the caliper...When the brake pedal is depressed the pressure holds the line open... When released there is no pressure to hold the line open...So it closes up..Won't allow the fluid to escape from the caliper...Would suggest replacing both the soft lines running to the calipers.......

This the actual GM manual from 1965...Not a reprint.... Took photos with phone....Hope you can see them OK....Flasher is located in the fuse block......Hope this helps

From the point where the pic was taken from (downtown Winston Salem)...High Point is about a 20 minute ride...Depending on the traffic..East South east..US route 311/I-74.. I -74 is a newly constructed Interstate highway a few years ago ( Still new to me)...Splits off from US 311 goes around...The city. Runs into I- 85 just to the south of Greensboro....US 311 is Main street right thru the middle of High Point..Used to go cruising down there all the time..Until the cops started harassing everyone a few years ago.... Sure that if I look hard enough..Have areial pics taken from some towers in High Point too.....,

Winston Salem N.C

Firebird Have not been ignoring you...Just been really busy the last few weeks...If I look real hard I'm 95% sure that I have that issue of Road and Track...You are referring to.. Thank you for your input and interest in my Formula.. I'm no expert.. but am well versed on F bodies all generations..If can be any help let me know..