TWO LANE BLACK TOP

What's up Kiwi.. Your leak is probably originating from the front pump seal...or maybe a crack in the front pump cover or the cover gasket itself possibly due to damage from the accident the car was involved in several years ago..you should be able to pull the bottom metal cover off of it and look between the rear of the torque converter and the front pump of the transmission using a flashlight...Have someone (that you really trust) in the drivers seat to start the car...While holding the brakes put it in gear and and throttle it up just enough to load the drivetrain up...With it loaded up look inside the cover with the flashlight and you should be able to Physically see where the fluid leak is coming from... Also there is a whole section devoted to the Super Hydramatic transmission in your 1963 pontiac manual..pages 7D1 to 7D 94...1963 and 1964 Super hydramatics are the same... The front pump seal/cover gasket is an easy fix...But the transmission has to be removed from the car to do it... TLBT..

If your car is stock (unmodified) You will not really notice any difference ...Other than psychological...In the way the car runs/performs as they are already tuned really close to optimal from the factory...Can also potentially cause Drivability issues on unmodified/stock cars...

Surprised that the Special Ordered (Only way to get one New)...3rd and 4th gen 1LE cars...Weren't mentioned...Guess they fall into the category of ultra rare but not particularity popular or valuable...???

As long as the cylinder heads or the block is not cracked.. Even if is locked up...It would be absolutely rebuildable... But it wouldn't be cheap....

We Have been itching for a road trip...Was kinda maybe thinking about jumping in one of the Firebirds and rolling up toward Charleston West Virginia...In October Ourselves..We haven't been up that way in couple years...Plus it's fairly close only about 4 hours... More or less away...Depending on which route we take...

Welcome to Forever Pontiac...Way Cool car.. I know this is Pontiac sacrilege And Can't believe I'm saying this... But I like the Buick 455 engine in your car..All V-8 Buick engines have really good forged internals from the factory....With the correct combination of mostly factory parts they can easily make one horsepower per cubic inch and 500 + foot pounds of torque with little effort...and have excellent Drivability...

Have been looking through some of my old Pontiac service manuals again...and have ran into conflicting illustrations...and text..the one I'm 95% sure is correct is from the 1963 chassis manual...The 1964 chassis shop manual is a supplement for the 1963 manual...which shows the shorter shoes toward the front of the car opposite of the adjusting stars which are always to the rear of the car...Also the right front and the right rear adjusting screws are left handed threads and they are identified by having 4 grooves in the adjusting screw nut whereas the drivers side nut is standard RH thread...The backing plates themselves are also right and left handed... Sorry for any confusion or inconvenience I may have caused...As I strive to post only accurate information..The photos show the right hand side TLBT...

The brake shoe with the longer pad surface area is the primary shoe and is installed toward the front of the vehicle...The primary brake shoe lining should be a lighter color than the secondary brake shoe lining.... Looking good Kiwi...

I agree with Frosty...That the root cause of the vibration issue is drive line related...And not necessarily the bushings and the mounts although the polyurethane body mounts will amplify any existing issue...Broken/worn engine/transmission mounts tend to have a very noticeable clunk when they are loaded and unloaded rather than a steady vibration under normal driving conditions...A couple of things to look at...Has the clutch been recently replaced...If so was the flywheel correctly resurfaced..?? If the clutch has not been replaced then that would be a moot point....I would definitely look at the drive shaft to see if there are any signs of missing weights...Also pay close special attention to the universal joints...On older low mileage cars that spend most of the time sitting...The needle bearings in the (U joint) caps can flat spot over time due to the weight of the driveshaft sitting on the needle bearings constantly in the same place without being rotated for extended periods...Even if they appear tight...if there are any flat spots it will cause a vibration as the joints will not work as smoothly as they should under normal driving conditions...Might be worth looking at...

Great looking staircase...Nice Work..! Glad my house is brick...

Does the vibration only occur at idle..?? Or Through a certain RPM range...?? While sitting in neutral only with the clutch engaged...?? Or driving down the road at different speeds..Etc.. If you could narrow down the specifics some...It will help in pointing you in the right direction...We like to help if we can....

If I remember correctly the guy does alot of commercial HVAC Ductwork...

As far as the trunk lid goes...If you replace it...Pay close attention to the the radius (curved radius like on your car as opposed to a sharp 90 degree bend) of the front corners of the replacement lid...They may vary from the 2 door hardtop.. convertible...2 door sedan (post)..4 door sedan ( post) from the 4 door hard top..

Don't know if this really fits the criteria.....Personally I think this is pretty cool...Some old guy built it in his backyard...Then brought it to the shop for me to make a trailer hitch for it... The other car is my buddies Grand Prix...