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Pontiac of the Month

dues70's 1970 Pontiac Bonneville

2020 July
of the Month


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Saturday i called into my favorite parts store to nut out my header issue on the Q and look what was sitting outside
  2. 6 points
    When your driving on the shoulder instead of the road, ya know it's springtime in Michigan.
  3. 6 points
    Well guys, I never thought I'd ever see this car again. Here is a photo of my very first Pontiac, originally a Regatta Blue 1973 Pontiac Lemans Sport Coupe. It had a 350 v8, 2-bbl, AC, and a 375 TH transmission, and a white vinyl interior. I purchased this car shortly after I graduated from high school. I graduated in 1978. I drove the car for about a year and then the rust started coming thru the rear quarter panels. So the following summer, in 1979, I started sanding and bondoing the car. I eventually primered, block sanded and then applied six coats of Martinique Blue Poly (a 1978 Trans Am color) lacquer (yes - lacquer) and 8 coats of lacquer clear. I painted the car in the family garage while my parents were on vacation in Scotland. They were pissed that I got paint on the garage floor but my dad was happy to see the car all one color and not "Bondo" colored. I used my grandfathers tiny air gun and compressor to do it too. It was at least 50 years old then! The thing that upset me most was that two weeks after I completed the paint job, I parked the car in the student parking ramp at my local community college that I was attending. Some "mofo" keyed the car - up one side and down the next! I had spent the entire summer working on this car and some jealous SOB destroys it in seconds! Campus security could do nothing since there are no security cameras in the student parking ramp, only in the facility ramp. Huh. imagine that. Students pay the bills but we can't afford cameras to protect their vehicles. Grrrr.. So I touched up the paint as best I could temporarily. My parents were upset as well since they knew how hard I had worked on the car. I spent the next summer re-doing the paint job but my heart has not quite in it at that point. I drove the car two more years and then sold it for a brown '80 Buick Regal with a 231 V6. While I had the Lemans, I purchased a "Trans Am" Formula steering wheel. I added a set of Cragar wheels and Goodyear and BF Goodrich tires to it. A set of Gabriel Airjacker air shocks raised the back end to allow for the L60-15 tires in the back to keep from rubbing on the fenders. I added a B&M shift kit. This is when I learned I had a 375TH transmission. At that time, I had never heard of a 375, just the 350TH and 400TH. I bought a 350TH shift kit but the new oil pan gasket was all wrong. I went back to the speed shop 4 times to get the right gasket. Finally the guy had me bring the pan in, that's when he knew I had a 375TH. I still have the Formula steering wheel, it's on Lucy today. When my dad passed away in 2018, while cleaning out his garage, I found my old Cragars. They are somewhat rusted and pitted, but I have them, lug nuts and all. I think I will have them re-chromed someday and use them on something. I'm not sure what. The backspacing was all wrong back in the day and they are all wrong now, but I'm sure I'll find a use for them. The photo you are looking at is when the Lemans was still in primer. You can see the Cragar's on it too. I never knew my dad took this photograph. This is a 35mm slide photo that I recent found and converted to digital. So the photo quality isn't the greatest. Man I hope I find more photos like this.
  4. 5 points
    Ok!this is all Frosty’s fault! He starts this stuff about redoing and changes his mind and than he goes and balloons it to more crap! Than pretty soon it’s a whole be project! Man oh man! Thanks al lot buddy! The new plenum just mushroomed into a lot more complexed piece! 😳 Had to start over, had an epiphany! Than a what if! This setup will really induce air flow from the hood into, across and out the back of the hood to really cool the plenum & throttle body!
  5. 5 points
    A little more finished. 55_Pontic_wagon_part_47.mp4
  6. 5 points
  7. 4 points
    I’ve seen how your wife looks at you.
  8. 4 points
  9. 4 points
    What did I do to my car today? I put a new coolant reservoir cap on it. I got tired of hearing my Bonneville fart whenever pressure would build up and blow past the worn seal. Drove me nuts trying to figure out where it was coming from, I thought I was just hearing things at first.
  10. 4 points
    I've been messing with getting the brake lines run, new MC and bleeding them. Front caliper banjo bolts would not seal. Went through 3 sets of copper crush washers before I bought new bolts which finally did the trick. Installed the two rear door panels.
  11. 4 points
    So now you can see that back in 1995, when I purchased Lucy, you can now understand why I was a sucker for a blue exterior and a white interior convertible Lemans. It was meant to be. It was karma.
  12. 4 points
    Happy 4th of July !! Went for a ride this morning !! IMG_3177.mp4
  13. 4 points
    You two are hilarious! I didn’t get any warranty! I came with a buyer beware notice!🥴
  14. 4 points
    Congratulations @dues70 and their 1970 Pontiac Bonneville for winning our July Pontiac of the Month!
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    I spent another day on my back wrestling with Lucy. I got the heater core in, three times. I managed to get either wires or hoses trapped behind it the first two times. Son of a b......! Then I got the bright idea to remove the dash and pull the instrument cluster so I could replace my weak 194 bulbs with LEDS. I ran out of daylight before I could get the headlight switch or power top switches back in. I clearly screwed up the ground strap(s) along the way since none the gages work or cluster lights come on. More fun for another day. The damn heater core is in, for good I hope. Who’s bright idea was this? Oh yeah! Mine! LEDs replacing the stock 194s. Wrestled the cluster out.
  17. 4 points
    With that mild cam, that procedure probably worked ok. If you want to be certain, then it takes two complete revolutions of the engine. Pull the rocker covers, turn the engine over by hand using a socket on the crank balancer bolt. Watch until you see #1 EXHAUST valve just beginning to open. Now adjust the INTAKE valve like you said: 1/2 turn past zero lash. Turn the crank 90 degrees until you see #8 EXHAUST starting to open, repeat for #8 intake. Repeat that process through the rest of the firing order (18)436572. You're halfway done at this point. Keep turning until you see #1 INTAKE just beginning to >CLOSE<. Now adjust #1 exhaust. Lather, rinse, repeat for the rest of the exhaust valves in firing order sequence. Which brings us back to the original question: Like I said I "think" I'm hearing a ticking sound that doesn't belong in your recordings. Could be it's real, could be I'm hallucinating or it's just something odd in the recording process that's fooling my ear. If you hear it too, one way to isolate where it's coming from is to use something like a long piece of wood broomstick, placing one end against your ear and the other end on various points on the engine. When you locate the source, it'll be obvious. It's really easy to get lost down the rabbit hole and starting chasing germlins, throwing money at parts just hoping to trip over the solution. At this point I'd recommend stopping, taking a deep breath, and then going back over *everything*, starting with the obvious and easy to check things first, (re)verifying that it's all correct. Work from the easy to check stuff first and progress towards the not so easy to check stuff. What we know at this point is that you've got a rough idle and manifold vacuum is way lower than it should be with that cam profile. Now that you've got a new vacuum gauge, use that to set your idle mixture. Start closing the mixture screws completely (lightly seated), back them out two full turns, disconnect and cap off the fitting for your distributor vacuum advance. Start it at set an RPM where it will keep running and you can work with it - say 800 RPM or so. Let it warm up. Using your new gauge, slowly tweak the idle mixture screws (always change both by exactly the same amount). When you find the setting that gives you the highest vacuum reading, stop - you're done (for now). Double check your ignition timing (also set with vacuum advance disconnected and capped off). It's best to use a light that can check total advance and set it that way - what you're looking for to start is 35 degrees timing at 2500 RPM. After that's set - let it idle and check with the light just to find out what initial setting corresponds to that 35@2500 setting so you can return to that point (or vary it slightly) without having to be fiddling with it while the engine is at RPM. That can be a little unnerving if you're not used to doing it. Make sure your plugs are good, gapped correctly, clean, wires are good, and nothing is arcing (I know --- check it again). Check fuel pressure being delivered at the carb inlet. You ought to have around 3 but no more than 6psi. If it still isn't "right" after doing those two things, your next move is to verify your valve/lifter settings again. Also do the 'starting fluid' tests and go through again looking for vacuum leaks. If you can't find a leak, the ignition is right, the lifters are right, the idle mixture is right, fuel pressure is right, and it's still acting up then it's time to run a cylinder leakdown test so see if you've got leakage anywhere - rings, valves, valve guides, etc. It's not unheard of for brand new out of the box parts to be bad, so just because you've recently replaced something doesn't guarantee it's good. Check everything and make sure.
  18. 4 points
    1969 Trans Am tribute pro touring 1999 Trans Am 30th Anniversary
  19. 4 points
    OK.. back in town from the work excursion to the cabin. Got some good ones.
  20. 4 points
    Sorry LastIndian more ol guy stuff.
  21. 4 points
    JUSTA got a FedEx notice. The new interior carpet and assorted other interior parts I ordered from Legendary Auto Interiors out of New York has finally shipped. It should be here tomorrow or Thursday.
  22. 4 points
  23. 4 points
    Hey all! My name is Nick, 26 years old and I am a proud owner of this 1969 Pontiac Catalina. This is my first car, my pride and joy. My dad and I rebuilt the 400 small block engine in it and it a big reason why I really have a love for this car. Just stopping here to say thanks and hi!
  24. 4 points
    Local school board is deciding whether or not to make kids wear masks at school. Wifey shared it and asked what people thought. One of our dojo moms responded with this! Lori for the win! 🤣🤣🤣 Here's how I think requiring masks might work in elementary. Please don’t snap Billy's mask in his face. Your mask is not a necklace, bracelet, or any other form of jewelry. You should not be using your mask as a slingshot. Please put it back on your face. Please do not chew on your mask. Your mask should be on your face, not on the back of your head I’m sorry your mask is wet, but that's what happens when you lick the inside of it. I’m sorry you sneezed. Here's a tissue. Wipe out the snot as well as you can. No, you may not blow your nose in your mask. Why is your mask soaking wet? You just came back from the bathroom? And you put it back on your face after you dropped it? I’m sorry you broke the elastic on your mask by seeing how far the band would stretch. Now you'll have to hold the mask on your face ... or use this duct tape. Please take the mask off your eyes and watch where you're walking. I don’t care if you have X-ray vision. Please take the mask off of your pencil and stop twirling it. I know the mask fits over your pants like a knee pad, but please take it off of your leg and put it on your face. What do you mean you tried to eat your lunch through your mask? Please don't share your mask or trade masks. I don’t care if you like Ingrid's mask better than yours. I’m sorry, but your mask is not school appropriate. We're not comparing our masks to other kids' masks… everyone’s mask is unique and special. No, you may not decorate your mask instead of doing your work. I don’t care if you have a Sharpie. You're not a pirate, please take your mask off your eye. Try to get the gum off as much as you can. Please don't use your mask to pick your nose. I’m sorry you tripped, but that’s what happens when you put your feet inside the elastic of your mask. No, your mask doesn't make it hard to get your work done. Your Mom will need to get you a new mask since you chewed a hole in that one. Why is there a shoe print on your mask? No, you cannot eat the snow through your mask. I don’t care if you were in art class and being creative; we do not decorate our masks. We do not beam other kids in the face with balls. No, their masks don’t make it not hurt. Please don't plug your nose holes with your mask. Who's making that noise? I’m sorry your ponytail is stuck, that’s what happens when you see how many times you can wrap it around your mask. I’m sorry to tell you, but your child thought her mask made her a superhero. She tried to fly off the jungle gym at recess … I’m sorry your breath stinks in your mask, maybe we should all try to brush better. Please take those cookies out of your mask. No, you are not a chipmunk.
  25. 3 points
    Yes sir Bear, you are correct. Thanks JUSTA, I am to. I don't think I would've found that without all of you guys helping and instructing me. So the heads are going to the machine shop tomorrow for inspecting and to have new valves fitted.
  26. 3 points
    Glad you found the cause and can finally get to fixin it right.
  27. 3 points
    I thought I replied to this last night, but I don't see the post now so I must have been hallucinating. Wrongway, using that smoke machine was genius. I'd like to know how you made it. So what you have there is confirmation that your compression is escaping through the intake valves in both 5 and 6. By any chance were the intake pushrods also damaged in those cylinders? I'm betting you've got bent intake valves on those two, either from them jamming against the heads of the exhaust valves or from trying to close with pieces under their seats. 5 and 6 are adjacent to each other in the firing order, so that makes sense as well. Keep us all in the loop - and again I'm impressed with your smoke machine idea. Bear
  28. 3 points
    4th of July !!
  29. 3 points
    That recommendation to pull the motor came from your report of definitely hearing leakage at the exhaust. I'd hate for you to go to the trouble of pulling it and that not be the problem. If you have the chance to test those cylinders again before you get too far along, make sure both valves look completely shut and apply air. Listen for leakage - at the carb, at the oil filler, at the exhaust - hopefully you'll be able to hear it hissing from at least one of those three spots. Also remove the radiator cap and listen there - look for bubbles while you've got it hooked up to air. Listen around the tops of the valve stems on those cylinders and see if you can hear it hissing there around the guides too. With zero compression, it's got to be going -somewhere-.
  30. 3 points
    They won't be hurt by soap and water. Just look then over to make sure they aren't damaged. You mentioned grease. All the bearing surfaces need liberal amounts of assembly lube when you're putting it all back together.
  31. 3 points
    As Bear mentioned you might have gotten lucky and only have the exhaust valve sealing issues...Since you're going to have to pull the heads anyway..It would be a good idea after the heads are off...To roll the engine over by hand to make sure that all the pistons are coming up to the same height in the bores... If they all don't have the same distance from the deck to the top of the pistons that would be a sure sign that you have a bent or kinked rod...Pay special attention to #s 5 and 6....if they are all the same height (none of them lower in the bore than the rest of them)...You're more than likely good to go as far as the bottom end goes....
  32. 3 points
    Stingrays are such beautiful and elegant sea creatures!
  33. 3 points
    ....and probably one (or more) of these biohazard stickers. Where's GE ?
  34. 3 points
    Wrongway... If you suspect a valve sealing issue...A good accurate way to check if your having valve sealing/bent valve/weak springs issues without tearing the engine down...Remove all the rockers...Then take a long straight edge and lay it across the tops all the valve stems....They should all be the same height..If there is some of the valves that are lower than the others by .002 to .003 or more...(Use a feeler gauge between the tops of the valve stems and the straight edge)..That is a real good indicator of a weak valve spring/slightly bent valve stem..ETC..which will cause the valves not to seal correctly and not hold compression...If you have a couple of the valve stems that are higher than the rest of them...That is a really good indicator that whoever did the heads cut the valve seats too deep..If that is the case and when you set the valve lash the same on all the valves the taller ones will not close completely or tightly enough because they are actually set too tight..If that is the case You can grind the tops of the stems to the same height as the rest of the valves...Provided that they aren't anymore than 4 or 5 thousandths higher than the rest of the valves...Anymore than that and you would have to use an adjustable length pushrod on those particular valves in order to keep the geometry the same on the whole valve trane...Also this may sound crazy but it might not be a bad idea to make sure that all the push rods are all the exact same length...While I'm thinking about it upgrading from 5/16s pushrods to 3/8s is a very cost effective worthwhile improvement.... Edit...Also if all the valve stems vary slightly in height from each other...and they are all not all the same...It can also cause erratic vacuum readings and crappy idling issues....Due to all the valves not traveling/opening/closing the same distances....Hope maybe all this helps you too figure out what the problem may be.....Without having to take everything apart.... TLBT..
  35. 3 points
    32,000 miles original paint original upholstery 17” year one wheels
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    Much easier way, JUSTA pull #1 plug and dist cap. Turn over by hand til rotor is just before coming up to #1 in counterclockwise rotation, Insert a pencil in #1 plug hole and continue turning engine by hand to Top Dead Center. (when pencil stops its outward movement.) Adjust back/forth as needed. Now check balancer and pointer. If not at 0 make a thin white line with a grease pencil, paint ect to your balancer = new 0 mark. This gives you the info on your balancer. A piece of tape over your degree marks and rub with a pencil. this gives you a temp degree marks, match 0 to 0 and your at least in the ballpark for adjustment. The open carb gasket is wrong, ya need a 4 holer to match intake. This will affect vacume. Have you driven the car??? Hows the brakes? That much vacume loss with no noise or rev when sprayed with start fluild. Leads me back again to the brake booster. Asked if you sprayed the booster hose connection with start fluid, but pedal alone would tell the story on the booster diaphragm. I don't claim to know it all, but this is what I'd be checkin if it was mine.
  38. 3 points
    It's very common for your 60 year old harmonic balancer to be off due to slippage and the old rubber. But doesn't rule out timing gear/chain probs. Too much slack will alter timing and may not have jumped a tooth.
  39. 3 points
    Well, no, that’s not it, if I understand right! She was sitting shotgun on a day that, well let’s just say could have gone better! And has never ever been forgotten! when you have raced as long as I had, at that point in time, and some A hole on a crotch rocket thinks he’s exempt from the law! Things can get ugly quick! 600+ hp in a 3200 pound car with 4:11 gears! No the crotch rocket is not gonna win, but that wasn’t the ugly part! Not my proudest moment, but the look on the A holes face made it a bit satisfying as I look back!
  40. 3 points
    No, No, No, you can never ever tell them!! It will not end well, trust me!! When you have 600+ hp under you and things go a certain way - - - sh - - t happens; and when they’re sitting next to you!!! Well! Trust me if they’re not there don’t tell em!
  41. 3 points
    yip guys, the boss likes bench seats
  42. 3 points
    Submarine races with the co-pilot???
  43. 3 points
    If you think about it, rubber lines have been used through out the engine compartment for decades. They've been used as coolant, vacuum, windshield washer and fuel lines. They all endure the ambient heat of the engine compartment as well as the internal temperature of whatever fluid is running through them. As long as you are using the proper hose and hose clamps for the job and you route it properly, you should be fine. Be sure to use fuel hose for fuel, vaccum line for vacuum, etc. One last thing I will say about rubber hose - If you are still running the original rubber fuel and vacuum hoses that car was built with, you should replace it with all modern hose ASAP (front to back). Time, UV exposure, dirt/grime/chemical exposure work to destroy hose from the outside in. However, today's ethanol-based fuels (E5/E10) work to destroy original hose from the inside out. Today's modern hoses are designed to withstand the exposure to ethanol. Most judged shows do not deduct for new hose either, it is now considered a safety item.
  44. 3 points
    Know how you feel laying on back for 6 hours ! I finally got my A/C working and everything is good! But a pain in the ass all the same. I used the original 64 air ducts that attach under the dash to keep the stock look! If interested I'll show and tell how! Last thing to do is get the column shift linkage adjusted. Have an aftermarket column with lokar shift rod and trans mount neutral safety switch. That seems to work just fine just need to fine tune, but body flex makes it a little harder. Added pictures of under dash a/c took out the upper a/c w/ clock and put in rally gauges, then took lower panel and split in half and then took my Dremel cut off wheel, and air cut-off wheel and trimmed the inside webbing to make room for duct work. Glued plastic air ducts to the back of original vent grills ( grills still operational and can be removed ) had to take the glove box liner and narrow the depth of it! Couldn't use stock light so fabricated a smaller light.
  45. 3 points
  46. 3 points
    Now that OLD - - I’m proud of did every one of those and then some!
  47. 3 points
    Well I need to get started on wet sanding and rubbing out the parts I painted, but I started the new idea for the plenum cover instead, for now anyway!
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    The Blue Dream SD-455 TA 1974 in Switzerland. My pride.
  50. 3 points
    Justa think about this LIL Misters...... This comes from 2 math teachers with a combined total of 70 yrs. experience. It has an indisputable mathematical logic. It also made me Laugh Out Loud. This is a strictly ..... mathematical viewpoint... and it goes like this: What Makes 100% ? What does it mean to give MORE than 100%? Ever wonder about those people who say they are giving more than 100%? We have all been to those meetings where someone wants you to give over 100%. How about achieving 103%? What makes up 100% in life? Here's a little mathematical formula that might help you answer these questions: If: A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z Is represented as: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26. Then: H-A-R-D-W-O-R-K 8+1+18+4+23+15+18+11 = 98% And K-N-O-W-L-E-D-G-E 11+14+15+23+12+5+4+7+5 = 96% But , A-T-T-I-T-U-D-E 1+20+20+9+20+21+4+5 = 100% And, B-U-L-L-S-H-I-T 2+21+12+12+19+8+9+20 = 103% AND, look how far ass kissing will take you. A-S-S-K-I-S-S-I-N-G 1+19+19+11+9+19+19+9+14+7 = 118% So, one can conclude with mathematical certainty, that while Hard work and Knowledge will get you close, and Attitude will get you there. Its the Bullshit and Ass Kissing that will put you over the top. Now you know why Politicians are where they are! Have you ever seen a better explanation than this formula.............. ......................how true it is.....
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