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Pontiac of the Month

brandyv73's 1968 Firebird

2019 June
of the Month

Last Indian

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Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. It’s really great to see you back Strat! The car looks like a great find! I love the tan interior! I have always loved the black and gold combo with a light interior, as anyone who knows me and my 69Z might guess, great choice! I don’t know where the 305 is with mods or hp, but if it’s petty much stock you can get it up to a good 400hp, or anywhere in between if you so desired. I can understand your feelings of the loss of your wife and I’m glad you are somewhat better. I’ll keep you in my prayers! we are all glad you’re back, that’s for sure! Oh yeah! The gold pinstripe like the Bandits had that you mentioned would look killer. I think they used the same 3M gold I used on the 69, it’s an 03 gold. 03 are the last two digits in the 3M number that denotes the color, the rest of the number denotes how wide the stripe, the spacing of a double stripe, etc.
  2. Funny you should say that buddy! I looked at doing Justa that when I started this whole concept, but decided against it finally because there is no real support for that portion of the cover. Just three flimsy plastic arms/brackets that are part of the cover that attach to the impact bumper. I felt if I cut away all that material in the letters, and then cutting loose the outer corners and then reattaching them, that the area would just be very weak and floppy and might put to much load on the corner areas. Still, I may revisit it this winter. I have a couple of ideas as to how I might support and actually strengthen that area, while still being able to back light it.
  3. I would agree with Frosty about the tires & U joints. You could also have a bent rim or improperly seated rim. The grinding noise could also be brakes or a tranny gear.
  4. I believe at the bottom of the tracks that the window hardware runs in there is an L shaped bracket that has a piece of rubber on the foot (horizontal portion) of the L shaped bracket. That bracket has a bolt that you loosen to adjust it or remove it.
  5. Thank you! Saw Lucy on the Great Lakes page, really looks great! Everything oriented the way you wanted it to?
  6. Welcome, like JustA said, nice GTO, and trust me he knows first hand! He he has a beautiful “66” as well!
  7. Welcome, you’ll find a lot of info here.
  8. Well I’ve gotten most of of the back cover done, still a little detail work left. The PONTIAC lettering on the lower portion of the cover still has to have gold inlays. This is the current modified rear cover. No wheels sticking out past the rear cover fender area. The original cover is at the last picture. This shows how much the rear fenders stick out past the cover. Also installed the new Indian Head Original cover.
  9. Looks really good buddy! I don’t get much time to peruse so I’m just seeing this for the first time! So things oriented on the grille ok? Looks like it did. All of you guys have your cars looking good!
  10. Got one step closer to finishing the Indian for this year with the back cover & splitter. Another week or two then it should be done. The splitter had to be raised about 2” because it sets so far forward when coming in or out of steep areas it would scrap the bottom edge. In reality it sits no lower than the air dam on my Buick, but that air dam is only a foot forward of the front tires. The splitter sits about 3’ forward of the front tires!!
  11. What Ringo said! Whatever the market will bear, but that said it won’t bring much, sorry! I like the “97”-“03” GPs a lot, they even had a lot more potential than most folks realize if modified correctly. Still as a rule they are not sought after as a collector car, at least not yet. As a rule the aftermarket versions by SLP or MPD bring the most money, some as much as $20,000. IMO, with the exception of the obvious high end collector cars, if you by a car for investment purposes you probably can do better elsewhere! I have always bought cars because the please me in design & function! At the end whatever I get out of the car when I sell it is a plus, but that’s just me!
  12. Yup! Those Nationals, but who wouldn’t prefer sun, surf, warm breezes, and the company of a fine lady! I’m sorry what were we speaking of 🤔!
  13. Me too! As I’ve said before I really don’t do car shows, but one thought is the Nationals are in the beginning of August!?
  14. A couple things as a little FYI. One other thing that works really well is Happich Simichrome and a very soft cloth, followed up with Meguiars Ultimate polish. But, since you have done some restoration to the lens one other thing you might consider is getting some Black Magic tire wet and apply this the the lens. This product is basically silicone. Apply a thin coat and just leave it to dry, which it really won’t dry very well. After a day wipe and buff and reapply. After 3 or 4 applications you may notice a decrease in any hazing that was still there. Then every few weeks always apply a wipe coat to both headlights, this will help kept them clear. It’s also great for door and trunk weatherstripping.
  15. What Frosty said! And pictures please!
  16. Hey buddy! Pictures please! Another one of my many projects over my 40 years with LZ was a live axle test for GM, Ford & Chrysler. This was were we built rear axles put them in a car and ran them to test limited slip or in the day positraction. In the beginning of the design there were some challenges to say the least. Many things make using an open diff for the purpose of two wheel hookup challenging and rewarding. In general you need 300 hp or hookup may be hard to achieve. You need to know how and what to blueprint for the rear diff, I.E. balance the spider gears and shims as an example. You need to know how to limit axle housing rotation to effect hookup, while tying the axle to the body without limiting the rest of it movement. Leaf spring suspension lend better to this than coil, but both can be done. Also in this particular build drive shaft design will play a role in success. If you look through the internet you’ll find a few folks who have done it. Most people thought prefer to just keep replacing the carrier.
  17. Well, I have to disagree a little, sorry! A positraction rear end and a limited slip are very close to the same animal for GM, with one difference. GM’s positraction sends almost all of its power to the wheel with out slippage. No slippage full power to both wheels. GM’s limited slip on the other hand only increases power to the better drive wheel in the case of slippage by a much smaller percentage. This has to do with cornering logic & how inside & outside wheel speeds come into play. In the end both will give you two black tire marks only if the suspension is setup relatively correct. That said so will an open rear end! I’ve said this before! An open rear end will lay two black patches just as well as any, if the suspension is setup right! The purpose of positraction or limited slip is not for burnouts! In actuality that is the fastest way to break a posi or limited slip rear end! If you’re looking just for burnout performance!? Put the money into the suspension & a blueprinted open rear end!
  18. That would be my guess! I’ve seen it before. That tweek on the drum pulls the shoes or shoe, which pops the spring or adjuster enough to move it out of position. That is why I always use either a gasket between my wheels and the rotor or drum whichever the case may be or anti-seize, painted on the surface of the rotor or drum where the wheel hits, even on the locating hub. It also helps to stop the dielectric action of the dissimilar metals from causing corrosion.
  19. Well looky looky! Ain’t them niiice! Have a Frosty one on me!! That’s why you should always carry a boat anchor. On the serious side, did the old wheels stick to the drum at all when you removed them.
  20. Food for thought! Here’s the problem with honing. A typical drill operated hone only follows what’s there, I.E. taper, out of round etc. than it amplifies it. You might get lucky, but if not than you’ll have to bore bigger than you might if you started with a block honing machine. If you start with a block honing machine first you may be able to hold the new bore to .010. Giving you just the .040 over.
  21. Exactly what I ran on the Z, except I ran Kelley’s back than! With a double wishbone and a straight axle they give a great ride & handle great as well!
  22. Curtis, just in case you’re unaware, you can buy oversized piston rings in incremental sizes, .003, .005 etc., but you’re going to have to dismantle the engine to hone it. In the end a bare block hauled to a shop and new pistons and rings may be the better choice. Honing can be tricky when it comes to true roundness and a straight bore! More often than not anything more than glaze busting will leave a block out of round and tapered.
  23. Well it was a perfect day to paint! Now I JustA need to wet sand and rub it out! Then back to the splitter work to get that finished after the mods I made!
  24. Well moving ever so slowly, between weather and other demands, but made some progress. Getting fairly close to painting the bc/cc soon, I hope!
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