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Pontiac of the Month

1Batimobil's 1967 Catalina

2021 February
of the Month

Last Indian

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Everything posted by Last Indian

  1. Gotta agree with JustA! But “60”s &”70”s are my favorites! “80”s & “90”s in general were kind of a transition period, but they were definitely some outstanding ones even then! Then in the new millennium there was a bit of a resurgence in design via fwd! I take one bit of solace in the fact that Pontiac was closed by GM! It actually went out on top! With great regret by most nearly everyone! Still had a great presence and still had a loyal allegiance! Most of all the US car maker are doomed to a different fate! As you all step through the next 20 years and look back these will not have
  2. Todd, you get that dimension by measuring from the gasket sealing surface of the pump to the mounting surface hub where the pulley mounts! An easy way to do that is take a straight edge across the hub flange, minus the pulley, and measure down to the gasket surface of the water pump.
  3. Absolutely! JustA to be clear I use a ohmmeter all the time! I don’t know how you could do electrical work without one! I had a huge Fluke, it was an oscilloscope that has more functions than I knew how to use, these run several thousand dollars, so I ended up giving it to a good friend who does way more electrical work than me and I bought a smaller one for myself. But the point is you really need a meter or your JustA going to chase your tail no matter what or how you look for your problem!
  4. I hear ya! I’m really bummed because I JustA saw that Mr Potato Head is no more! Real! Now it Potato Head neutral gender! No kidding!
  5. Copy that times two buddy! Don’t forget letting anybody in to the county JustA because they want to! No waiting! JustA come on in! Drug dealers, rapist, murderers, you name it! No I.D. Required!
  6. No, an oil change, nor an exhaust leak would not cause the engine to not run! But reading through your thread, quickly I might add so maybe I missed something, I see you say you changed your plugs! So I have to ask, did you gap them correctly for your engine? Did you by chance not get the spark plug wire put back correctly? Have you checked the spark to know that the coil packs are working? Cold weather can have a nasty impact on old coil packs! The other question to answer is Frosty’s about the fuel! You need to put a pressure gage on the Schrader valve and see what the pressure is! Even if y
  7. Voltage drop is just one test, but there are so many test you can run the real question is which test for what problem! The voltage drop you show in the video for starting for example really is inconsequential in the big picture of starting. More relevant battery cranking voltage drop! Typical battery cranking voltage drop on starting with a good battery will be from 12.6, for a well charged battery, down to 10. 2 to 10.4 volts. Anything lower than that means there are issues with the system, either on the plus side or the negative side. Now when you get into the less power consuming component
  8. What JustA said! Love seeing you back buddy!
  9. Grounds for a car are usually the number 1 overlook problem with electrical troubles for cars! You should see the grounds on the Indian! I added 6 additional new grounds & changed all the high voltage/amperage grounds to 02 welding cable, because welding cable is fine strand copper, which carries electrical current much better than standard large stranded electrical wire! Remember electricity runs in both directions and the ground side of car electrical systems is almost always the weaker side! As an example you can have 30 to 50, 18 gage positive wires to lights & heaters etc. as an
  10. More than likely the vent cap is the issue! Usually what you described is actually a vacuum, not pressure, but it happens so fast when you loosen the cap it seems like pressure.
  11. Ahh! If we could only go back! Would have been so cool to have gone both and bought one!
  12. Kiwi, the sludge that you described and showed is typical of short run cycles! This type of sludge is made up of a heavy emulsion of water condensate and engine oil vapor, mixed together and most often deposited in the upper end of an engine! I did lots of work and testing in this area looking for the best additive remedy to deal with short cycle, cold weather driving! This is or was a major problem in the northeast US; as well as areas with similar weather characteristics! Since you really don’t know the condition of the motor, one additional step you could take to try and reduce the cost and
  13. I agree 100% Two Lane!! But unless Kiwi wants to pull the motor and tear it down to the short block he has limited options! Most of the motor flush’s don’t have enough contact time with that type of sludge to do much to it! Plus most motor flush’s if run long enough to have any impact on that type of sludge, there is always a concern about small pieces breaking loose and blocking small orifice, like valve lifters! What I described above will tend to have the best results! Clean as much as you can, than use the TBN of a high quality oil to literally clean the inside of the motor over time! But
  14. That’s what we call dried sludge/mayonnaise! Yeah that’s ugly! This will take some, unfortunately, tedious work! Obviously clean the valve covers off the car, because you can clean those beautiful! Do this with either stoddard solvent or kerosene! The heads will be much harder, unless you want to pull them?! If you pull them you would be able to complete disassemble them! Clean them really well, lap the valves, replace valve seals and clean passages you can’t get to without removal! Again you would use stoddard or kerosene! You are indicating that the oil pan is off, right? So if you don’t
  15. Buddy I hear ya! I suppose it’s not the place, but the fact is these action affect everybody at every level in every way!! When they started all their emissions crap in the late “60”s I didn’t like it! But I said if it made the air cleaner, produced less pollutants, I could deal with it! Then they kept adding and adding, but you know they figured out how to make it work, and work pretty darn good! Yet this truly is a whole different animal! Number one! You literally can not produce enough electric for wind, solar or hydro! Even if you combined them all! You can look it up if you doubt it
  16. To quote Dan Bongino! There are the stupid/stupid & the smart/stupid! The first one knows he’s stupid, the second one thinks he’s smart, but he’s really stupid! They are the dangerous ones! And we know where most of them are! Also you are right from the perspective that if they are effective at moving everything to electric, than they can control everything you own! How much energy you use! And once they moved everyone away from natural gas, gasoline Oil and the like it’s over! All the infrastructure would be gone! We would all be screwed!
  17. You hit the nail on the head my friend! And drove it clean through the 4x4! Bidien’s not at the helm! The other guy with the big O to start his name is running the show! If any doubt that; it’s your right! There’s a novel idea! Free choice, free speech! Wow! Who knew! But, there is actually a large amount of proof that he is! The saddest part of the whole thing relevant to the article is the big big lie! And nobody I mean nobody with any real power will step forward and make the people in this world understand! There is actually scientific proof that CO2 doesn’t effect global wa
  18. Two Lane, my two cents worth would be as follows! Get the engine hot, but first take some WD40 or liquid wrench and spray it into a bottle or jar. Then take a syringe or eye dropper and squirt some on each spark plug thread at the cylinder head, but get the engine hot first! Then let it cool completely! Then start the engine again! Let it run till you can’t touch the heads without getting burned! Turn it off and remove the spark plugs! Do you need to do this? Your guess is as good as mine, but there should be a wicking action of the WD40 as the engine cools as well as when it is re-started
  19. Good job Two Lane! I forgot about the difference between the two door which doesn’t have the sharp turn down and the 4 door, which has that shape turn down at the rear fender/rear door!
  20. Yea! JustA saw this! If you’re speaking of the blue car in the picture? That’s not a Pontiac! That a Chrysler! Pontiac never built anything that had a rear quarter rear door configuration that had that kind of sharp body line turn down! Only Lincoln, Ford & Chrysler. And of the three I only remember Chrysler having an individual stand alone turn signal side marker that high up in the front fender!
  21. That’s a good point about the expansion rate! Quite often those are overlooked issues by manufacturers! I have seen that many times in my working career. So that prompted me to look at the MSDS sheets! Interesting enough the difference between the copper, black, red, blue & gray is enough to possibly make a difference in sealing! The red is the softest shore A 20, copper 26, black 30, blue 30 & gray 30-40! The elongation was close to the same for all except the gray, it was much lower! The shear strength was the lowest on the copper and the highest on the gray! So what does
  22. Frosty, I understand that, and this is just my opinion, but I don’t believe GM says to use the copper! But if they do, I can only say they also say to use Dex-cool! And that crap is the worst s"?!t on the market! You might as well pour acid in your engine! While I never have built any of the LT1’s I have had a lot of interaction with the guys who were building them for our engine lab! They always used the red RTV! These engines ran hundreds of hours under some of the severest conditions! The one thing I remember they would tell me they always did was to put a blob of rtv in each corner at t
  23. I believe this is the product Two Lane is using! And if you look at the picture you posted it is clearly listed as exhaust and 700 degrees F! Thus why I’m saying, I don’t really believe that is the right product for the application! That type of sealant usually does not have the proper composition for flexibility, ductility, shear strength or adhesion! It is usually has a composition more so for expansion, contraction. And while I know they say it’s oil resistant, I believe that is more from a exhaust oil perspective, not an engine oil bathing perspective! Otherwise why would you make any of t
  24. I must admit I have not built any of the Gen2 LT1 motors! That said, and I know it’s easy for me to say since I would have no vested interest, but I would still try one of the following two methods! First of all the copper rtv to me makes no sense! This is typically used for high temps like exhaust manifolds, cats, etc! I don’t know why they would want you to use that? Ok, so you clearly have to make the call here because you have the most experience with doing the work and seeing the failure! First, the easiest way is to use Permatex Ultra synthetic it comes in a purple tube! It is
  25. Two Lane, I don’t know what your approach has been to try and resolve this, but my thought would be this! Also I don’t know what end gaskets you are using,I.E. cork, neoprene or just rtv! You might try the following. I would use cork end gaskets with the red rtv! Put a thin layer of the red rtv on the block, than while still wet place the cork gasket into the rtv, but don’t press it in to the rtv hard, and let it cure over night! Next day put another thin layer on the top of the cork gasket! Set the intake manifold in place while wet, install the bolts to align the manifold properly, but don’t
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