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Fitzy's GP is back!


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That is a super interesting test mate !

I would expect 

lower resistance  equals a better lead ! able to flow more current … 

think we need last Indians input here !!!

help !!! Last Indian 

what’s your thought on resistance verses current flow ?

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Well yes - less resistance is obviously better, but why does the resistance drop once the spark plug is snapped into one end of the lead?

More to the point, the actual resistance of the spark plugs was in kilo Ohms - a significant amount.

I'm buying a Corolla. That way it won't matter how many Ohms do what - it'll just start up and run perfectly...forever. Visit my new site: Corolla Forever.

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1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

Well yes - less resistance is obviously better, but why does the resistance drop once the spark plug is snapped into one end of the lead?

More to the point, the actual resistance of the spark plugs was in kilo Ohms - a significant amount.

I'm buying a Corolla. That way it won't matter how many Ohms do what - it'll just start up and run perfectly...forever. Visit my new site: Corolla Forever.

Yeah ,, Corolla forever … on the dark web ! :rofl:

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So the solid core should be just about zero because they are just a regular copper wire but most wires are of the resistance type usually to help with radio interference and such.

Resistance wires are usually so many ohms per foot so a longer wire is more then a short one,  44 ohms sounds ok on that short wire.

As far as pluggs i don't remember the resistance but I know there is resistance pluggs and none resistance pluggs also.

How is your cap? And voltage to the coil?

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Sorry about the late response. I flew home this morning and am still in Ga Ga Land through lack of sleep...and beer. My contract ran out as a Warehouse Officer and so I have gone back to driving a coach on Groote Eylandt.

I haven't even looked at the car since I mucked around with the leads. I am about to throw in the towel and sell it. So if anyone wants a very well priced 65 GP which is practically mechanically rebuilt and is 100% rust free, let me know.

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Hi Gary- thanks for your response. Strangely, battery reads 12.7V with engine idling, increases very slightly as revs increase. Battery reading with engine off is about 12.4V, so it doesn't seem to be discharging. Alternator AND regulator are both new. I suppose regulator is adjustable- I would have thought it should be correct as tested at the factory. I replaced both components because old alt & reg did exactly the same, which tells me there's an electrical issue with the car. I fitted a modern aftermarket fuse box in the driver's footwell to replace the rusty decrepid original one, but I never bothered to replace the wires that run through the firewall. Apparently, old style firewall connectors were never up to the task in the first place, and mine are 60 years old. Clearly, the car could benefit from a total rewire.

The momentary slow crank starting issue only happens after a run and the engine is warm. It always starts easily, but is disarming to listen to for the first 2 seconds.

As far as HT leads go, I have retro fitted my 7mm solid core (rat chewed but only cosmetically) ones but have not bothered to progress any further. I also had a similar thought to you re Blue Streak leads and HEI. That system would generate enough oomph to negate any potential resistance issue, whereas my points & condenser set up may struggle. FYI, both sets of leads are barely used from brand new, just like every other goddam component on the car!

I'm sick of scratching my head and trying to figure out the endless idiosyncrasies this car has. I've had dozens of old carb & distributor cars that were faultless long distance cruisers that you could drive anywhere. I can't even go around the block with this thing stumbling & carrying on, even though almost EVERY SINGLE THING has been replaced. I'm over it. I'll take a massive hit but it's going.

I now have to endure the horror of opening a Facebook account and advertising the car there- it's the way to go these days I'm told. Grumble, grumble..

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8 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Hi Gary- thanks for your response. Strangely, battery reads 12.7V with engine idling, increases very slightly as revs increase. Battery reading with engine off is about 12.4V, so it doesn't seem to be discharging. Alternator AND regulator are both new. I suppose regulator is adjustable- I would have thought it should be correct as tested at the factory. I replaced both components because old alt & reg did exactly the same, which tells me there's an electrical issue with the car. I fitted a modern aftermarket fuse box in the driver's footwell to replace the rusty decrepid original one, but I never bothered to replace the wires that run through the firewall. Apparently, old style firewall connectors were never up to the task in the first place, and mine are 60 years old. Clearly, the car could benefit from a total rewire.

The momentary slow crank starting issue only happens after a run and the engine is warm. It always starts easily, but is disarming to listen to for the first 2 seconds.

As far as HT leads go, I have retro fitted my 7mm solid core (rat chewed but only cosmetically) ones but have not bothered to progress any further. I also had a similar thought to you re Blue Streak leads and HEI. That system would generate enough oomph to negate any potential resistance issue, whereas my points & condenser set up may struggle. FYI, both sets of leads are barely used from brand new, just like every other goddam component on the car!

I'm sick of scratching my head and trying to figure out the endless idiosyncrasies this car has. I've had dozens of old carb & distributor cars that were faultless long distance cruisers that you could drive anywhere. I can't even go around the block with this thing stumbling & carrying on, even though almost EVERY SINGLE THING has been replaced. I'm over it. I'll take a massive hit but it's going.

I now have to endure the horror of opening a Facebook account and advertising the car there- it's the way to go these days I'm told. Grumble, grumble..

Peter, I understand that feeling & in many cases true. This is why so often you see a ground up rebuild of these old ones that basically is like building a new car! Not one component is left untouched or it’s replaced. The car is completely dismantled down to nothing. That’s an expensive & arduous task. And the ancillary items needed to do such a task is such a daunting task on it’s own, that it can stager the mind.
There are many things that can persevere a cars condition over long periods of time & prevent the issues you are seeing, but when you didn’t have that control from the beginning you have no idea what has or hasn’t been done to preserve that condition. Well, you have issues that can be troublesome. Most of what you are experiencing can be rectified without enormous cost, but it’s really about what you want to tolerate & how much you are willing to endure to get it. 
Best of luck with whatever path you take.

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Peter, I did get sidetracked from what I was going to say. If you have the desire to pursue JustA little further you might be close. You say you have 12.7 volts at the battery while the car is running. That says that is all the regulator is allowing to be put out. That’s a problem! See if you have an adjustable regulator. It should be but, I can’t assume so. 12.7 volts at the battery means much less at every place else in the car! Even the entire ignition system, coil, distributor, spark plug, etc. that in turn impacts timing with respect to a good fired mixture or bad. So if you want to step through things one last time before you throw in the towel, I’ll give it a go with you.

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Yeah, whatever. Come on over. Once the beers come out, we'll just sit around poking fun at the car.

So today I thought I'd at least start it up because I haven't done anything since changing the leads. Took it around the block and it was faultless. Plenty of power, no carry on. I then whipped out the multimeter and checked a few things. Power to coil with ignition 'on' but engine not running is only 5V!!! It should be 12. With engine running it's 7.7V, which is about right due to resistance wire feeding the points. Battery voltage with engine off is 12.4. Engine running: 12.3. Yes, I know that's not enough. Tested fuse box with key to acc: 12.2. With switch 'on:' only 11.7.

So i'm now thinking there's an issue with the voltage coming out of the ignition switch which shits me because I've checked coil voltage in the past and it was 12V, so something has mysteriously changed. Also an obvious voltage drop between ignition 'on' and 'acc' position.

Whilst I was under the hood getting cranky, I pulled the 2 firewall plugs that feed through it into the footwell. What a mess! 60 years of crap and rust in there. The pics are the 'before' shots. If you're thinking "why doesn't he get rid of the surface rust on the booster & master cylinder," it's because the master will one day be changed to dual circuit and whilst the booster is out, I can clean it up and paint it then. Whilst they were apart, I checked for voltage going in and it was 11.46. I checked for resistance between outer terminals and inner ones - zero. Checked for resistance across all battery terminals and their various connections, the isolaters and all the earth straps and the main earth lead - all zero Ohms.

So...I THINK I'm going to run fresh decent gauge wires from the correct terminals on the back of the ignition switch. The car's original resistance wire seems to be working okay but I wonder if a fresh 12V to the coil via a ballast resistor might be the better way to go?

Of course if I had a Corolla, I could just jump in and go somewhere. 😁

Thanks to Kiwi and Gary for their help and words of inspiration. I shall sally forth and see what happens.

That reminds me: those useless Blue Streak leads are never going back on, so if someone wants them, let me know. You can have them for nothing - about what they're worth. I am NOT adjusting the reg. I'll take the car to a sparky and they can test the alternator and fiddle with the reg if they feel the need. I'm likely to make the car burst into flames if I touch either.

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I forgot to mention: as car was idling I turned on headlights, then indicators then brake lights. The voltmeter swung abruptly into 10V territory each time I activated something. What's going on there?

And Kiwi suggested checking alternator output. I don't know how. There's a substantial wire coming out of the back and a smaller 2 prong connector which I assume goes to the idiot light and something else. How do I check output? 

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mate ! i am with Two lane here ! test the big wire out of the back of your alternator! its the one thats making the power and its your staring point for alll your issues !

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Love it! Too late to turn back now. Like being in a leaky rowboat where you can see the shore but the fish are still biting. Just a couple more fish and we'll get back to shore...maybe. Or, just sink and swim back with your life intact and your boat gone. Deep thoughts.

Thanks TwoLane. Everyone is trying to buoy my spirits and encourage me to keep going. I shall put in as much effort as I can, as I also want to keep the car but selling it would be the easy cowardly horrendously expensive way out.

Stay tuned for how my life is unravelling.

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