Andy H

Got a few hours today and started to assemble the front suspension, had a hard time getting the springs in with no weight on the front end, had three people sitting on the cowl and used a spring compressor to make it happen, all new bushings, ball joints and all the steering components. tried the to see if i could use the existing bracket for the brake caliper hose but that is not going to happen, it is not going to bend correctly when turning so I'm going to have to put it in the front of the spring instead and make a new brake line to make it work also had to cut of the little "guide"

A zip tie won't work because it's the bulkhead connector , i might see if I it's ok with only one tab, worst case I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new harnes ,might try the online chat and send them a picture.

The biggest connector i found was 8 terminal and the one on the car is 10, guess i have to keep looking,but they had a bunch of other interesting stuff so thanks. Here is a picture of the connector, you can see the broken tab on the side.

Thank you, they say full size cars only but so what😄 found some possible ones right away but have to take a closer look , got to get my harness out and compare. Could even just buy a couple even if I'm not completely sure, only a few bucks each, sure beats a complete harness for over $100

Anybody been able to find the connector housing for the engine harness without having to buy the whole harness? Not the bulkhead connector but the one on the engine harness,my harness is OK but the plastic connector broke when taking it off. I'm working on a 64 Lemans but might be the same on other models?

Whatever it takes, looks good, think i will do something similar but i need two for my dual master.

finally got a few hours to finish up the floor, front suspension installation next.

Nice loop ,did you just bend it by hand around a pipe or something? Don't need to have one here in CA nobody check's anything but like the look

Look on OPGI web site they sometimes have a listing of what other cars the part fit

Thanks, for the most part i like it pretty plain.

Obviously i did not get the floor finished the day after last post, wishful thinking🙄, some thing about working on the daughters room. Engine block back at the machine shop, could not get the oil galley plug in the back behind the freeze plug out and now since it is there i decided to take some of the deck, have been going back and forth with this if i should leave it or take some off. Pistons are between 0.030" and 0,040" below deck and from talking to a friend and researching online it seems it should probably be 0.030" and 0.050" clearance to the head and the gasket is about 0.040

Got a few things done today, got the push rod for the brake master threaded and cut to size with the 3/8" to 5/16" adapter from Mac master Carr installed. Mocked the disc brakes up and had to grind the corner of the spindles of a little so that it cleared the caliper and then starting cutting the piece out of the passenger floor that needs replacing, hopefully i will get the floor finished tomorrow.

I agree totally. but for checking cables wires and connections in circuits with some amperage draw this works good and also to determine if there is problem in the positive or negative side and if nothing else to rule out the wiring and connections, for temp gauge and fuel gauges in these older cars and a bunch of other things in newer cars a ohm meter is probably something you need to use. We could probably start a whole new tread about this like 64 kiwi boni mentioned earlier since its a pretty lengthy subject,

Here is two videos i found about testing the starter and the alternator that i thought made sense. The same goes for any circuit and for example the heater fan go through a lot of components before it gets it power, like the fuse box, bulkhead connector fan switch maybe the ignition switch or a relay so a wiring diagram is good, its like a road map, where is it coming from and where is it going and if you find a problem you have to work your way backwards to the battery, test on both side of the fuse box or ignition switch or bulkhead connector, is the drop OK going in but not out,

Ohms are OK but not the same as a voltage drop test because the circuit is under load and is more likely to show up if there is a problem, even better is if the car is running when you do the test. If you test the starter wiring put one lead on the battery post not the terminal and the other one on the starter stud and have some one crank the car and see what you get, for the ground side you do the same but on the starter you have to attach to the case or hold it there, the nose piece is usually a good place. I think 0,2V is ok but some say up to 0,6V but less is better. you can do this o