On 8/19/2021 at 3:24 PM, Frosty said:

Sorry to hear that wdl182. I was looking forward to meeting another FP'er.

Hey I finally got my Octane LED's installed! WOW can I see where I'm going !! Haven't been out at night for a long time, but came back from my sons soccer game and lights were GREAT! Thanks for the info!🤩

Your lucky !!! 

I went to all the trouble last year to stick led in my 59 caddy 

only to have a warrant of fitness fail as they are not legal of old cars here in nz !!!

i took them out yesterday and put halogen bulbs in ! 

Edited September 6, 20214 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Dusted off the GTO for the labor day show tomorrow.

On 9/5/2021 at 7:27 PM, wdl182 said:

Hey I finally got my Octane LED's installed! WOW can I see where I'm going !! Haven't been out at night for a long time, but came back from my sons soccer game and lights were GREAT! Thanks for the info!🤩

Last night, after working on Lucy for two days straight at the new garage mahal, I drove Lucy for the first time at night. The new Octanes were instantly different from the old T3s.

My son drove my pickup in front of me back to the storage unit. He said I had LED flicker (WTF? since these are suppose to be halogen). I do have an LED compatible relay for Lucy. I will see if that makes a difference. 

So be on the look out for any possible light flicker Wayne.

I made some progress on Lucy this weekend. Jacob and I took the car over to the garage mahal to work on it over the Labor Day weekend. We were able to:

1. Hook up the heater core to the engine.

2. Refill the coolant level

3. Throw in a bottle of Bars Leak (there is a small leak off the back of the engine). Grrr.....Bars Leak do your thing!

5. Install the passenger side sound deadener

6. Install the passenger side Hushmat (replaces the Dynamat I had to rip out 2 years ago)

7. Got the back half of the new carpet laid down but not fully trimmed out.

8. Reinstalled the front passenger door panels and trim. I installed new plastic arm rests but the plastic is not 100% correct. I spent a lot of time grinding the screw heads down because the plastic got narrower that the stock screws were. That was such a pain.

9. Discovered a small but annoying power steering leak. Double Grrrr....

We had to clear out of the garage in preparation for more work in the garage this week. We had to pack up everything and take it back to storage or the house.

 

Starting point - barren floor boards on the passenger side were I had torn out the antifreeze soaked carpet, Dynamat and sound deadener 2 years ago. I had a large piece of cardboard over it to keep from getting old tar from getting on me.

Sound deadener was next. It just lays there. Heat from the car will eventually cause the tar side to stick to the floor pan.

HH

Hushmat was next - this stuff is black, not aluminized, like the Dynamat it replaces. I recall getting a lot of tiny cuts from the aluminized stuff. Not so with this stuff. Jacob did the hard work of putting this stuff down.

Also notice the completed passenger door!

Finally we ran out of time while starting to lay out the new carpet. We started with the back portion first. We have it rough cut and glued down. We still have some wrinkles and final trimming to do.

Edited September 7, 20214 yr by Frosty

Just put all new window felts on the Lemans, and wired in a tach. New aluminum intake going on next. 

1 hour ago, CLEARCROW said:

Just put all new window felts on the Lemans, and wired in a tach. New aluminum intake going on next. 

Thankz for jumpin in on the thread.  We like pic's.  Keep us up on your project.

On 9/7/2021 at 8:39 AM, Frosty said:

Last night, after working on Lucy for two days straight at the new garage mahal, I drove Lucy for the first time at night. The new Octanes were instantly different from the old T3s.

My son drove my pickup in front of me back to the storage unit. He said I had LED flicker (WTF? since these are suppose to be halogen). I do have an LED compatible relay for Lucy. I will see if that makes a difference. 

So be on the look out for any possible light flicker Wayne.

I drove it last night for about 40 minutes and no flicker! Hi Beams were awesome I could see for miles and miles and miles !!😁

While I didn't see any flicker from the driver seat, the brightness and intensity of the new headlights was instantaneous.

Glad you like your new headlights. I know I will enjoy Lucy's new lights.

Well I've been thrashing on Lucy trying to get her ready for WV.

1. The back seat is in.

2. The underdash wiring is tucked away (perhaps not as neat as I'd like it).

3. I have the glove box installed with a new glove box (I cut out the old one to make run for a CD changer but I'm not putting it back so I got a new glove box).

4. The front carpet is now in it. I've installed

5. The front kick panel speakers are installed.

6. The newly powder coated front grilles are installed.

7. The seats and console are cleaned and ready to be installed.

Then I hit a possible showstopper. I removed the steering wheel. It is a Trans Am/Formula steering wheel that I've had since my teenage years. While taking the dash in and out, the collar got damaged. I ordered a new one awhile ago. So I pulled the steering wheel in order to remove the Allen screws that hold the wheel to the collar. I was test fitting the new collar on the steering column and somehow (I have no idea how), I managed to cross thread/stripe the retaining nut! 

It was so bad I had to use my power Porter/Wagner torque gun to get it off. The stud and nut are in bad shape. If I can't find a tap and a new nut today, then I'm screwed on this build and I will have to take the Buick to WV. I may have screwed the entire steering column. I'm pissed at myself.

I can still put the steering wheel on and move the car around, but I can't locked it down plus the horn works off that nut for grounding purposes, so I would not have a working horn. Grrr.....

That sucks.  Maybe you can look into the quick release wheel adaptor so you don't have to replace the steering column.  Or time to pony up for the correct tap N redo the threads.

I am hoping to try the tap route. Assuming I can find one the right size TODAY!

Otherwise I may be looking for a new tilt column from Ididit this winter.

Shit happens mate !

the tap and new nut might work !

 does anyone make a helicoil for a male thread ?

Edited October 4, 20214 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Man that Sucks Frosty!! Good luck with a die to rethread! Maybe a metric die might help! then a similar nut!! Other than the guy

on the other End!!🤣  When you heading to WV? Whats your route?

Wayne

55 minutes ago, wdl182 said:

Man that Sucks Frosty!! Good luck with a die to rethread! Maybe a metric die might help! then a similar nut!! Other than the guy

on the other End!!🤣  When you heading to WV? Whats your route?

Wayne

Well I got a new die and a new nut for Lucy's steering column yesterday. Well they both turned out to be the wrong size! Sh*t! So I'm screwed for taking Lucy to WV.

After that I spent last night changing the right rear taillight out in the Buick that was broken. I found a replacement on eBay several weeks ago and Jacob and I swapped it out. So I am taking the Roadmonster to WV for the weekend. Probably a good thing since the forecast is for a lot of rain Wednesday thru Friday at least.

 

 

Edited March 18, 20224 yr by Frosty

Just ordered a rebuilt GM floor shift tilt column for Lucy from Firebird Central last night, along with a Pontiac-specific tilt lever. I will have to transfer my ignition key lock/tumbler and my cruise control/turn signal to the new column. I should have it in about a week. It was around $800. A new Ididit column is about $1100 plus a $300 install kit. So I went the rebuilt route. The original column in the car is non-tilt. I read that the 2nd gen F-body column is interchangeable with the 69-72 A-body  column. I will find out one way or another shortly.

I just got my new Aero spoiler for Black Beauty from Hawks Motorsports 2 weeks ago. The rubber/vinyl factory original has split in several places over the last 3 decades and this is the best fiberglass replacement on the market. It comes in primer. My goal is to have it test fitted, blocked, sanded, painted and installed before Power Tour starts in June.

Tomorrow I am going shopping for Snell-rated 1/2 racing helmet. It is required for Power Tour if I want to participate in the autocross event or go out onto the tracks at Nashville Motor Speedway or Atlanta Motor Speedway. I definitely do....so I need to go get one.

It's been too cold to work on either car thus far this winter. I'm hoping the warmer weather starts soon.

Edited March 18, 20224 yr by Frosty

Now frosty you know we all love pictures around here 🍻👍

show us the new spoiler 😀

I've been preparing to pull my motor. Got everything dissconected. And just about to take the hood off a d doa few more things from the top. Plan is to pull it out tomorrow. .

Niceeeeeee!

Looks ready to get outta town. Good Luck!

All ready to pull now. Only thing still co  enter is the wires to the starter  any tips? Was hoping I can disconnect them once it's in the air  if not I may have to cut them?

You should be able to disconnect the wires with an extension socket and perhaps a universal before pulling the motor. Should be three wires connected to the solenoid. 

Easiest way...To Access the starter wires...Before lifting/Unbolting the engine...Drop the starter from Underneath...Support it so that it is not hanging on the wire harness...The wires will then  be easily accessible...Then use a 5/16..??...Socket or wrench to take the wires loose from the solenoid...Having the starter off the engine can actually be beneficial...Clearance wise when removing the Mill...Anyway..

Are you removing the the engine and transmission together as one unit..??

Edited March 19, 20224 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

5 hours ago, CLEARCROW said:

All ready to pull now. Only thing still co  enter is the wires to the starter  any tips? Was hoping I can disconnect them once it's in the air  if not I may have to cut them?

If you can't reach wires, Justa drop the starter.  Unhook wires.   It's usually easier to have it out while reinstalling the engine anyway.  More room to line up motor mounts N install your exhaust manifiolds.

1 minute ago, JUSTA6 said:

If you can't reach wires, Justa drop the starter.  Unhook wires.   It's usually easier to have it out while reinstalling the engine anyway.  More room to line up motor mounts N install your exhaust manifiolds.

Daaaaaa  should have read Two lanes before posting.