For what it's worth..

If you can get a good accurate Measurement of the Bore size...400 = 4.120..350 = 3..875..

3 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

For what it's worth..

If you can get a good accurate Measurement of the Bore size...400 = 4.120..350 = 3..875..

One Other thing...When Inspecting an Engine Block to purchase...Make Sure to measure All of the Lifter Bores Too....That is VERY Important...

The Pontiac Lifter Bore Size = 0.842.. + Or - .0002..

Worn out/Oblong/severely Tapered lifter bores..Are expensive to fix..(bore and sleeve)..

Justa Something to Be Aware off....

TLBT...

 

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

The casting date is by the dizzy. The block cast code should be elsewhere .

ah i left it at that mate , its a 350 .. already got one of those !!!

12 minutes ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

One Other thing...When Inspecting an Engine Block to purchase...Make Sure to measure All of the Lifter Bores Too....That is VERY Important...

The Pontiac Lifter Bore Size = 0.842.. + Or - .0002..

Worn out/Oblong/severely Tapered lifter bores..Are expensive to fix..(bore and sleeve)..

Justa Something to Be Aware off....

TLBT...

 

cheers two lane ... hay ! how about your thoughts on what i should build ? ... i will copy and paste my response to your questions from a couple of weeks ago .....

 

Ok 

let’s start with what I have on hand ..

in the 68 is a 1970 350 

on the floor in the work shop I have the 389 1963 model that Dwight gave me 

and 

I have a mate who is happy to sell me a 400 block 

the goal …. A horny but street able combo for this 68 

a stroker  engine is certainly an option 

but really for street 

I only need a good low down torque motor that won’t see much time in the higher revs 

 

This 68 justA-fys a Ponti engine 

the 63 wagon I am building , no issues sticking the LS engine in it justA because it a nana car for the boss 

Edited March 1, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Kiwi...

You've indicated that you want really good torque...

Do you want a Really Nasty Idle...??

Or a Sewing machine Smooth Runner with a Torque Curve  that pushes you back into the Seat... And Never really Stops Pulling... Throughout The entire RPM range...?? With a Smooth idle But With a Very Distinctive Exhaust Note that is Noticeably Different from a  "Stock" Engine....That Will Work Very well with the Numerically lower Gearset/stock Torque Converter....That you already have...(My Personal Favorite)

 

A big lumpy camshafts Sound really good at idle... Long duration camshafts with Alot of valve Overlap..Generally Don't work well with Power Brakes... Stock type Torque Converters And the Numerically...Lower Gear Set in the Rear  end..Most Big cam Engines Don't make Good Low end Torque..Off Idle to around 2500 RPMs...Before the engine Starts to make any real torque...As they require a Higher Ratio Gear set...Like 3:23 to 3:42 ...3:73...Etc..And a Higher Stall Torque Converter...To obtain Maximum  Efficiency and Drivability...And Not get Dusted on the Low end...by Fitzy's Prius...

EFFICIENCY = Power

POWER = Efficiency 

The Engine Block prep is  the most important (Overlooked) First step to making good  Power and Efficiency before it even goes to the Machine Shop..with What ever Combination you Decide..When you actually get your hands on a 400 Block And See Exactly what your Working With...Then We'll Start  Putting Together a Combination That Will be as Completely Matched/Efficient as possible From the Engine Fan To the Rear Differential Cover..

I have never built an Engine By Proxy Before...Especially From the Other Side of the World...

So please Bare With Me...And I will Do my best To help Especially with all the...Often Overlooked...Small details and Tricks that can make a big Difference in the End Result...🏁🏁🏁

TLBT... 

 

Edited March 1, 20251 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

two lane ... this is me !!!

Or a Sewing machine Smooth Runner with a Torque Curve  that pushes you back into the Seat... And Never really Stops Pulling... Throughout The entire RPM range...?? With a Smooth idle But With a Very Distinctive Exhaust Note that is Noticeably Different from a  "Stock" Engine....That Will Work Very well with the Numerically lower Gearset/stock Torque Converter....That you already have...(My Personal Favorite)

 

i have a chev 400 in the holden ute  and that motor was built by a mate who used it in his 32 hi boy for drag racing ..

what i note about that engine is how quick it revs ,, he had full balanced  the internals ! and what i differance it makes !! that motor wips up instanlty !

 

i dont want to go the big cam way... been there done that with my ls2 powered gto monaro 

sounded fantasitc at idle , but a real pita at stop signs as you had to really hold the brake as it wanted to move with the big lumpy cam .. once , i was sitting at the lights and i had the 2 girls in the back, the boss in the passenger seat  and i am sure all 3 had there boobs woop wooping to the cam !!! while the lead in my teeth was falling out !!

that car ate tires all the time !!! it was like driving a jet boat !!! allllll over the show , no traction what so ever !

 

Edited March 2, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

i should have kept that car ! but i would not have been able to get my hellcat ... 

Edited March 2, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

20 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

i have a chev 400 in the holden ute  and that motor was built by a mate who used it in his 32 hi boy for drag racing ..

what i note about that engine is how quick it revs ,, he had full balanced  the internals ! and what i differance it makes !! that motor wips up instanlty !

 

i dont want to go the big cam way... been there done that with my ls2 powered gto monaro 

sounded fantasitc at idle , but a real pita at stop signs as you had to really hold the brake as it wanted to move with the big lumpy cam .. once , i was sitting at the lights and i had the 2 girls in the back, the boss in the passenger seat  and i am sure all 3 had there boobs woop wooping to the cam !!! while the lead in my teeth was falling out !!

that car ate tires all the time !!! it was like driving a jet boat !!! allllll over the show , no traction what so ever !

 

Wouldn't expect anything less.

Edited March 3, 20251 yr by JUSTA6

Kiwi...

First things first...I sure that you already Know these things...But I'm going to say it Anyway.. So please Don't Offended...First off When you get your block..Is to be 100% Sure that it's Not Cracked Anywhere..(pay special attention to the lifter gallery underneath the intake manifold area) Remove all the Freeze Plugs and All the Oil gallery Plugs..Then thoroughly Clean the block...Then Use a Die Grinder/Dremel tool..Whatever you have..With the proper tooling..Remove any/all Excess flashing (inside and out) Left over From the Casting Process..Deburr ..Very Slightly Chamfer just Enough to dull Any Sharp edges without Removing any material (Very Important)...All the Internal oil passage Holes...Make sure and And Dull/Slightly radius Any and All Sharp edges and smooth out any Casting/Parting Lines Both Internaly/Externaly...Attention to the Small details is critical here...The Reason for all this..Is to Relieve any Potential Failure/Stress Points of the Engine Block...Then thoroughly Clean the Block again..All these extra Details will improve the Efficiency And Quality of the End Results..

Question Time again...Do you want to use a Bottom end Stud Kit...??? Or Go with the Regular Bolts...??? Billet or Stock Main Bearing Caps..??

TLBT...

 

Edited March 4, 20251 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

I feel like I need to have the block in front of me and go through this process as you explain it two lane .. but I haven’t got the block yet !!

so I will come back to each part ..

Let’s stay stock with the main caps … do we replace the bolts ? 
or are you thinking that it would be best to stud it ? 

I completely agree with cleaning up the block . I was shown how to lightly port the heads when I built the 350 in my 72 

and I still have that dremel bit 

Edited March 4, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Personally I would stud it but I will defer to Two Lane. When I had Lucy's 455 rebuilt, I had my engine builder use ARP studs and bolts through out the motor. Cheap insurance to keep everything together short of cutting a new window in the block or oil pan.

32 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Personally I would stud it but I will defer to Two Lane. When I had Lucy's 455 rebuilt, I had my engine builder use ARP studs and bolts through out the motor. Cheap insurance to keep everything together short of cutting a new window in the block or oil pan.

good call Frosty !!!

Kiwi..

Frosty is Correct...an ARP Stud kit. Is Absolutely a Worthwhile Recommended Upgrade...Just pay attention to the Instructions that will come with the Stud Kit..As the Torque Values/Specs are Different from the Factory Specifications...Personally I would use the Stock Caps...With the ARP Stud Kit....

Edited March 5, 20251 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

2 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

Kiwi..

Frosty is Correct...an ARP Stud kit. Is Absolutely a Worthwhile Recommended Upgrade...Just pay attention to the Instructions that will come with the Stud Kit..As the Torque Values/Specs are Different from the Factory Specifications...Personally I would use the Stock Caps...With the ARP Stud Kit....

You know what Two lane, i will run with what you know !! 

Edited March 5, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Back at the beginning of January i pulled the trigger on a new hood , vent inserts, 2 fender patch panels and a new hood latch for the 68  from opg.... the very first week the inserts where sent to my shipping company  in california, with none of the rest of my order !!! 

so i contacted opg ....this is my very first order with them and i am very disapointed in the fact that they can sell you stuff and not tell you they actually dont have it in stock !!!!

today the hood arrived at my shipping company !!! its the middle of March now !!! 

check out how the box arrived !!!

 

thank fully the team at Kiwi shipping opened the box and inspected it and they are happy that its not damaged !!

 

 

Edited March 12, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

and now i am still waiting for the fender patch panels and latch, very very dissapointed opg !! 

every other company i have delt with will tell me its on back order and give an eta , like when i ordered the long branch headers for the 64 , they where happy to tell me and i was happy to wait knowing they where onto it ... not this company !...

i will get down off my soap box now and go watch the letter box and wait for my parts to arrive ......

One more reason I prefer National Parts Depot (NPD). Their system tells you if it is in stock. Plus having the Michigan warehouse just a tad over an hour away makes it somewhat convenient to go pick up the parts if I need them right away.

I feel your pain Kiwi. During COVID I ordered interior parts for Lucy from Legendary Auto Interiors, it took almost 7 months to get the material.

Edited March 12, 20251 yr by Frosty

8 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

and now i am still waiting for the fender patch panels and latch, very very dissapointed opg !! 

every other company i have delt with will tell me its on back order and give an eta , like when i ordered the long branch headers for the 64 , they where happy to tell me and i was happy to wait knowing they where onto it ... not this company !...

i will get down off my soap box now and go watch the letter box and wait for my parts to arrive ......

I have ordered sooo many parts from OPG without ever a problem.  It has been many years.  Sorry to hear that!

6 hours ago, Frosty said:

One more reason I prefer National Parts Depot (NPD). Their system tells you if it is in stock. Plus having the Michigan warehouse just a tad over an hour away makes it somewhat convenient to go pick up the parts if I need them right away.

I feel your pain Kiwi. During COVID I ordered interior parts for Lucy from Legendary Auto Interiors, it took almost 7 months to get the material.

yes i see what you mean Frosty ! each page shows avaliablity at its store location ! 

https://www.npdlink.com/product/repair-panel-lower-fender-rear-rh-12-inches-high-21-gauge-steel-incl-inner-brace-repro/178196/10448

justA none at thier ca shop !!!😥

I hear you Kiwi. So I completely understand going thru OPG since they are Cali based. and closer to Kiwi Shipping. Still it is a nice feature to have when you are shopping and ordering parts. Perhaps OPG can take a lesson here and update their website accordingly.             Nah! What was I thinking?

 

Yes I thought using a Cali based firm to get my hood would save money !!! NOT 

they charged me usd $337 to freight  it to central La ! 

Edited March 12, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

On 3/5/2025 at 2:36 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

You know what Two lane, i will run with what you know !! 

May I interject here. I used ARP rod bolts (along with head bolts) and the machinist told me to apply the supplied ARP lube sparingly, and he meant SPARINGLY as he grabbed me by the collar and pulled me towards his face with his eyes drilling into me. The supplied lube is so slippery that it is possible to actually overtorque and consequently snap the nice new bolts. It's hard to believe but that's what he told me. So, when you use that stuff, of course use it coz it'z great but just a smidge.

Don't make me come over there and grab you by the collar because I will.

Mate ! 
I expect your guidance too !!

i need to get my a into g and go see my mate and buy this bloody 400 !!!

but as you know the boss has me sorting this swim spa !!

this weekend is sorting boxing up and compacting the area 

and I will pour concrete next weekend !!!

I am running out of weekends !!!

beach hop is the weekend after and then Wanganui cruise weekend ! 
then we have the number 5 grandies first birthday to go to in Auckland !!!

I need time !!! 
 

Note to self, go get 2 new 265/60r15 BFG for Camaro ! Before beach hop !!! My current ones on the car are 21 years old !!!!

 

I did new front tires last year 

but forgot how long it’s been since I bought the back ones !!

Yeah I know !!  Sad when you have to replace tires that are not worn out !!!!!

Edited March 13, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

My bad !

3 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Yeah I know !!  Sad when you have to replace tires that are not worn out !!!!!

I am having to do that with Violet. She is a 2016 and very low miles (just over 18k), however, she still has the same shoes she wore when she was born. Since I am taking her on Power Tour and we have 3 drag strips on the docket, I will be replacing those originals with new rubber that GE recommended I get. That's $1200 worth of rubber I am looking at. Not happy about it but I will sleep better.

Also I don't know if shared this story about Lucy. I bought Lucy in 1995. I drove on the same tires until 2011. I was going thru the car when I found a tire receipt in the glove box. It was from 1983! I check the tires - yup same tires. Sooooo I went out and bought a new set of BFGs pretty quickly. 

I think I did say when I took Black Beauty out of long term storage in late 2021/early 2022 and I was going to do Power Tour with her, I immediately got new tires and brakes. I knew those tires were the original Goodyear Gatorbacks (which Goodyear discontinued ages ago) from 1986. I knew better than to drive on those tires for any long distance.

You are not alone in this mate!

Edited March 13, 20251 yr by Frosty