6 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Mate ! 
I expect your guidance too !!

i need to get my a into g and go see my mate and buy this bloody 400 !!!

but as you know the boss has me sorting this swim spa !!

this weekend is sorting boxing up and compacting the area 

and I will pour concrete next weekend !!!

I am running out of weekends !!!

beach hop is the weekend after and then Wanganui cruise weekend ! 
then we have the number 5 grandies first birthday to go to in Auckland !!!

I need time !!! 
 

Note to self, go get 2 new 265/60r15 BFG for Camaro ! Before beach hop !!! My current ones on the car are 21 years old !!!!

 

I did new front tires last year 

but forgot how long it’s been since I bought the back ones !!

Yeah I know !!  Sad when you have to replace tires that are not worn out !!!!!

Don't waste em, wear em out.  Do they smoke in colors mate?  Forever skids?  

I'm in the same boat as Ya'll...Jezabel's shoes have been on Her since 2012 and have less than 10,000 miles on them...The shoes that she was Originally Equipped with (Goodyear Eagle GSC) Have long been Discontinued...What sucks is the Tire Size 275/40 ZR 17..Has become an oddball Size and there only a couple of suitable suppliers that still Offer that Size...Limiting my Availability of Options to choose from...☹☹...And still cost $800 to $1000 (depending on what I replace them with)....

6 hours ago, Frosty said:

I am having to do that with Violet. She is a 2016 and very low miles (just over 18k), however, she still has the same shoes she wore when she was born. Since I am taking her on Power Tour and we have 3 drag strips on the docket, I will be replacing those originals with new rubber that GE recommended I get. That's $1200 worth of rubber I am looking at. Not happy about it but I will sleep better.

Also I don't know if shared this story about Lucy. I bought Lucy in 1995. I drove on the same tires until 2011. I was going thru the car when I found a tire receipt in the glove box. It was from 1983! I check the tires - yup same tires. Sooooo I went out and bought a new set of BFGs pretty quickly. 

I think I did say when I took Black Beauty out of long term storage in late 2021/early 2022 and I was going to do Power Tour with her, I immediately got new tires and brakes. I knew those tires were the original Goodyear Gatorbacks (which Goodyear discontinued ages ago) from 1986. I knew better than to drive on those tires for any long distance.

You are not alone in this mate!

oh !!!! for F%%#%#KS sake !!! i havent done the tires on my purple car ! and they are oringinals too !! shes a 2016 model and i have only done 20000 kms on them ! god !!! i bet there will be no change out of 3k for 4 x 275/40R20 !!!

you know what frosty ! 
that 3 k is my Buttler stroker kit !! 
I think the tires on the cat can wait !!!!  

I get it Kiwi. I can live with 8 year old tires a little longer vs almost 30-40 with BB and Lucy. Get your Butler kit.

Now Justa’s idea of burning them down is not s bad one either.

1 hour ago, Frosty said:

I get it Kiwi. I can live with 8 year old tires a little longer vs almost 30-40 with BB and Lucy. Get your Butler kit.

Now Justa’s idea of burning them down is not s bad one either.

I justA went to my tire shop and asked what the damage is gona be … $650 per corner ! That’s for same as factory p zeros 

$2600 for a full set? Aw hell no! Order the Butler kit and tell your kids you want a tire from each of the grandkids for your birthday or Christmas, whichever is closer! Or your weight in beer! Your choice.

You guys do know that no matter how old,  it's the inspection of side walls for cracks N dry rot,  check carefully the inside of the treads.  Our cars mainly sit inside (out of UV rays that destroy rubber)  The old bias ply tires will get flat spots sitting 6mo to a year.  Radials will also get flat spots when left for long periods.   Driving the car and heating up the ol rubber usually takes most of the washboard ride out of them.  Esp with the cost anymore, I'm watching mine carefully.  I made the Sunbird rims in 88, so the rubber was new then, but still in perfect condition.  I do put the car on blocks with the tires off the ground and suspension loaded, when stored.   After new tires on both the daily drivers a month ago, I'm as broke as a joke.

1 hour ago, JUSTA6 said:

You guys do know that no matter how old,  it's the inspection of side walls for cracks N dry rot,  check carefully the inside of the treads.  Our cars mainly sit inside (out of UV rays that destroy rubber)  The old bias ply tires will get flat spots sitting 6mo to a year.  Radials will also get flat spots when left for long periods.   Driving the car and heating up the ol rubber usually takes most of the washboard ride out of them.  Esp with the cost anymore, I'm watching mine carefully.  I made the Sunbird rims in 88, so the rubber was new then, but still in perfect condition.  I do put the car on blocks with the tires off the ground and suspension loaded, when stored.   After new tires on both the daily drivers a month ago, I'm as broke as a joke.

justa! you have a really good point ! the tires on the camaro are 21 years old and they look perfect, i have had it on the hoist and done a visal inspection .... and the ones on the purple cat... well, they are mint ish . BUT 

here is where my brain cuts in and wont shut up !!! what if !!!!

i have never had a tire shread or break apart ! infact justA yesterday the front tire on my massey ferguson tractor went down and i have replaced the tire as it truely look buggered !!! it had more crack than a drug dealer ! that one was put on there in 1993 !

those goodyears i bought cheap for the 68 had been stored for 20 years and to look at them they are mint as !!!

 

 

Edited March 14, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Finally got to go see my drag racing mate who runs a 400 in a 23 t bucket, and also  owns the 64 lemans like Andy’s 

and we went through his spare engines .

He has given me his damaged 400 ... he does have a zt code 400 if this yd block is a no go....

I will take it to the machine shop and see if it’s worth fixing 

 

the yd code looks to be a 1969 400 ... am i corrct Frosty ? 

down side is the damage ……

have a look !

on the plus side, it was still holding water so it didnt crack the bore.....

watch this space !!!

Edited March 16, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Bottom of the number 1 and 2 cylinder walls are munted ! 
but I will take to the machine shop and after they stop laughing I will get them to magnaflux it to check for cracks  talk about sleeving cost 

this was my mates race engine bores are like new and he reconds a lifter jumped out and cause number one con rod to break 

he showed me the rod and it had broken justA at piston skirt line , 

 

Kiwi - YD codes were used on 389s, 400s, and 455s. I will assume you are looking at a 400 block.

YD on 400s showed up in 1967, 1969, and 1970. Block casting numbers are 9786133, 9790071, and 9799914 respectively. In 67 and 69, compression was 10.5:1 and 10:1 in 70. All were 2 barrel carbed engines.

Thanks for explaining what happened to the block. My first reaction was what hateful thing did your mate do to chew up that cylinder bore like that. I hope it can be saved.

I will check the casting date tomorrow frosty 👍

Frosty 

tell me what you know about the heads  I saw today .. my mate had 2 sets. One 4x 

and the other s6 

both had the bigger intake valves 

the 4x where off a 400 that he has used the block in his drag bucket and it has four bolt mains 

It’s a x5 block 

Edited March 16, 20251 yr by 64 kiwi boni

The 4X heads were installed on 1973 and 1974 400s and 455s. Measure your intake valves because in 1974 this head could be had with either 2.11”/1.66 intake/exhaust valves or 1.96/1.66 valves. Combustion chamber size was either 98cc or 114.

There is no S6 head, however, there is a 6S head. Used in 1975 and 1976 400s. They have 2.11/1.66 valves and had 7.6:1 compression. Welcome to the smog era! However, these are max size valved heads.

X5 block is a 1973 only 400, it came with 4X heads, 2 or 4 barrel carb, and 8:1 compression.

Edited March 16, 20251 yr by Frosty

7 hours ago, Frosty said:

The 4X heads were installed on 1973 and 1974 400s and 455s. Measure your intake valves because in 1974 this head could be had with either 2.11”/1.66 intake/exhaust valves or 1.96/1.66 valves. Combustion chamber size was either 98cc or 114.

There is no S6 head, however, there is a 6S head. Used in 1975 and 1976 400s. They have 2.11/1.66 valves and had 7.6:1 compression. Welcome to the smog era! However, these are max size valved heads.

X5 block is a 1973 only 400, it came with 4X heads, 2 or 4 barrel carb, and 8:1 compression.

Thats perfect Frosty !! thank you !!! 

both the 6s and 4x heads had big chambers and certainly have 2.11 inlet valves 

1 hour ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Thats perfect Frosty !! thank you !!! 

both the 6s and 4x heads had big chambers and certainly have 2.11 inlet valves 

Awesome. I doubt you can go wrong with either head.

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

Awesome. I doubt you can go wrong with either head.

Yes 

but 98 or 114 cc !!! That really low compression 

 

Yeah, GM and other manufacturers were busy detuning their motors to meet the new US emissions and the removal of tetraethyl lead from gasoline which started in 1974. Catalytic converters were introduced for the first time. Harden valve seats became necessary. Compression ratios also plummeted from 12-10:1 to 7-8:1 to cut down on CO2 and NOx emissions.

i need Two lanes help here !

i have been told even if this 400 block i have is crack free, it will need to be sleeved on the 2 damaged cylinders and , that causes shift in the wall and so all 8 will need to be sleeved... which to me makes sense 

help two lane !!! whats your thoughts !

am i wasting time and money ? 

Frosty lead is not in gasoline,That was the big scam of the seventies to raise gas prices,Lead is a additive so there was no need to remove it

My point was leaded fuel was the norm until the 1970s, when the federal government mandated the sale of unleaded fuel only. Tetreaethyl lead was an anti-knock agent that allowed for higher compression ratios. It was removed (or not added) due to its toxicity and the wide spread lead poisoning, especially in children who inhaled the fumes.

If  it was a scam or not, I can’t say. It was the law of the land, we didn’t really have a choice but to buy it.

The tetraethyl lead had to be removed due to contaminating the platinum and palladium catalyst beads in catalytic converters.  The converters rapidly lost efficiency once in contact with lead.

Rick

 

19 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

i need Two lanes help here !

i have been told even if this 400 block i have is crack free, it will need to be sleeved on the 2 damaged cylinders and , that causes shift in the wall and so all 8 will need to be sleeved... which to me makes sense 

help two lane !!! whats your thoughts !

am i wasting time and money ? 

Kiwi...

Core Shift...May or May Not be an issue...The only way To Know For 100% ...Is to have the Block Sonic tested...Core shift occurs During the Casting process... If one of the Molds Shifts/not lined up correctly...Etc..Causing the Cylinder walls to be thinner in some places/thicker in others/Not Uniform with each other...In Relationship to the Distance between the Internal Oil/Coolant Passages in the Block...And the Cylinder walls

Sonic testing is a process that sends Sound Waves through the Bores...Then measures the time that it takes for the sound Wave to travel through the Cast Iron and back...Thereby measuring actual the thickness/Density of the Cylinder walls...Basically the Same way that RADAR works...It is Also  Pricey to have it Done...

Most Hardcore Engine Builders...(NASCAR/NHRA..Etc..) Will Sonic Test the Block...The Very first thing before any Machining Of the block...The Reason for that is to Insure that when the Cylinders are Bored/Honed/Sleeved...Etc.. That there is a Certain Minimal distance from the internal Coolant/Oil passages to the Cylinder walls...I'm not exactly sure What that Reccomend Minimum distance is...Probably depends on who you ask...And the intended use..Turbo/Supercharged With an Obscene amount of Boost...Hosed Down with Alot of of Nitrous Oxide...Etc...But an educated Guess would be around 1/4 inch.( .250 )...

I know that this Long Winded..But I couldn't help Myself...It's an OCD thing...

The issue that I can tell about Your Block from the Pictures that concerns me..Is the Chunk that is Missing from bottom of the Cylinder Bore on #2...When Sleeving a Cylinder.. The block is cut to the size that is .001 smaller than the Outside Dimension of the Sleeve itself to provide an Interference Fit When the sleeve is installed..When the Block is cut it is only Cut Deep Enough to where there is ledge left in the bottom of the Bore for the Sleeve to Sit Onto and Tightly Against..To keep the sleeve in place from sliding down into the crankcase.. As the Cylinder head helps keep the sleeve from shifting up out the Top... Personally I think that the Damage at the bottom of the Bore might be too Excessive to (the missing chunk right where the ledge  needs to be)  To cut an Effective Reliable Ledge for the Sleeve to sit Tightly Against And May or May Not Have the Potential  to Cause a Future Catastrophic Failure do to Movement of the sleeve...

It's up to you Whether or not You want you want to take the chance or Not..

This is Justa my opinion based on What I can tell from the Pics..Without actually Seeing and Putting my hands on the Block in Person...

Any other Thoughts or Concerns/ Feedback..From other Members Would Be Appreciated...

TLBT..

 

I'm no engine builder but I agree 100% with Two Lane's observations - those chipped cylinder walls look dreadful and I reckon you're throwing the dice by using that block. Have you still got the old 389 Dwight sent you? A stroker kit and a freshen up in it might be the better option, that's if it will physically fit the car you're doing up, or source an old 455 that needs a rebuild. Plenty cubes for starters.

Two Lane - could this rough edge also result in cracking? After sonic testing I would think magnafluxing would be in order to see if there are any cracks in the block. Any cracks found would render the block useless. I think Fitzy is on to something re-using Dwight’s 389.

Edited March 24, 20251 yr by Frosty