It's been a little slow going but got the a/c expansion valve replaced,the evaporator flushed out because when I install the fenders i will be hard to get to it.

Painted the inner fenders, mocked up the left side and fabricated a mount for the electric power steering pump I'm going to use, i wasn't sure it was going to fit inside the fender but i think it will work out, have to fill and bleed the system before i bolt it down and install the battery, just ordered the fitting for the pump so hopefully I can use my new stock hose and the return is the same size as the fitting on the pump.

I'll have to snap some more pictures over the weekend and post.

nice hiding place Andy... does your battery tray sit next to that ?

On 4/27/2023 at 10:04 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

nice hiding place Andy... does your battery tray sit next to that ?

Yes so by the time it's installed you won't see much of the pump but on the other hand if i have a leak and need to top of i have to take s few things apart so hopefully no leaks 😆

Got the rubber flaps installed in the wheel well opening, ordered some stainless staples and they fit perfectly. Getting closer to hook up some electrical so a question about where the grounds go.

Ground from the battery goes to the block? From the engine to frame and in that case where? Where is the body grounded? The right side inner fender had a small ground strap so it will go back on.  There is a lot of paint on everything so if don't run ground wires i know how it is going to be.

It might be able to go down the street under it's own power next weekend for a short test drive.

Edited May 7, 20233 yr by Andy H

On my 64 Andy, there was a small earth strap from the passenger side of the motor onto the fire wall. And one from the block onto the driverside inner fender

Batt ground to front of block/head.  KIWI is correct, but on pass side,  Ground from front of block/head directly to FRAME.  More room on pass side because of steering/gear box.  Rear intake bolt to firewall.

Yup, that's how my 63GP was, except on mine it went drivers side back of block to firewall. BUT, I doubt mine is original since so much was changed when by the time I got her.

Edited May 7, 20233 yr by Wrongway

7 minutes ago, Wrongway said:

Yup, that's how my 63GP was, except on mine it went drivers side back of block to firewall. BUT, I doubt mine is original since so much was changed when by the time I got her.

Perfect,at least all this gives me an idea how it's supposed to be, mine is not stock either so i can do my version of this. Found a bunch of ground straps on Amazon.

Guess the main thing is a good earth to the body AND. A good earth to the front clip for the likes of the head lights and horn 

I see no advantage on earthing the chassis as it’s on rubber bushing to the body 

Chris,  NOT nitpickin, but your bolts go through the frame, then the bushing, then attach to welded in nuts on the core support, body supports.  10 in all on my GTO.  Inner fender is bolted to frame also.  Interior ground if I remember correctly goes to the steering column mount at the firewall.  The steering box is also bolted to the frame, but the weak link would be the rag joint and 2 bolts that hold it together.

Found this link

https://www.hotrodwires.com/how-to-ground-automotive-electrical-system.html

This is NOT factory original, but a rule of thumb basic setup.  

Edited May 8, 20233 yr by JUSTA6

3 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Chris,  NOT nitpickin, but your bolts go through the frame, then the bushing, then attach to welded in nuts on the core support, body supports.  10 in all on my GTO.  Inner fender is bolted to frame also.  Interior ground if I remember correctly goes to the steering column mount at the firewall.  The steering box is also bolted to the frame, but the weak link would be the rag joint and 2 bolts that hold it together.

Found this link

https://www.hotrodwires.com/how-to-ground-automotive-electrical-system.html

This is NOT factory original, but a rule of thumb basic setup.  

I think that is pretty much what my plan is for now,

9 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Chris,  NOT nitpickin, but your bolts go through the frame, then the bushing, then attach to welded in nuts on the core support, body supports.  10 in all on my GTO.  Inner fender is bolted to frame also.  Interior ground if I remember correctly goes to the steering column mount at the firewall.  The steering box is also bolted to the frame, but the weak link would be the rag joint and 2 bolts that hold it together.

Found this link

https://www.hotrodwires.com/how-to-ground-automotive-electrical-system.html

This is NOT factory original, but a rule of thumb basic setup.  

Arrrr. So true 

Found these ground straps on Amazon and s few more things i need.

My plan is to rework the stock harness with some relay's for headlights and ignition for now and hopefully do a complete rewire later on.

Might be a little bit got a house project that snow balled a little bit, was just suppose to be a fairly quick sand and paint job but turned into a medium termite repair job.

Got the battery tray bolted in last weekend and it made it down the street and back so that's a good morale booster.

Glad to hear she's rolling again bro, the termite problem sucks. Good luck

wow! its the best thing when you get to take that maiden drive Andy!!...

 i feel for you with the house repair project!!! my boss effectively kept me away from the garge for a year doing the additions!!

i do like those earth straps !!! they look near factory !!!👍

Got some stuff done,had a hard time getting the fitting for the pump and when I got it was to short, the oring at the bottom of the fitting is supposed to seal but it didn't reach, believe the fitting is for an Chevy LS conversion.

Plan B was to put on an oring with a aluminum washer around it at the top and it's working so far.

Installed the breaker, big disconnect relay and made the battery cables, also installed the cube relay's for the horn and headlights but still need to Wire those, have to fit one more relay somewhere for ignition also.

Fired it up and it works great but found out that the radiator has a small leak do it has to come out, not to many radiator shops around anymore but we have one close by so have to see what he says.

nice hiding place mate 👍

 and even a good place to hide the relays behind the battery...makes it look wayyyy clean 

Looks great bro! Good job!

8 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

nice hiding place mate 👍

 and even a good place to hide the relays behind the battery...makes it look wayyyy clean 

Yes, i like the wiring clean, like my buddy says cable management 😉 

So i pulled the radiator out and took it to the local radiator shop, yes there is a few left, this guy has been at the same location for 49 years started with his dad when he was 17.

So radiator core old/ tired no good so my choices was $370 coldcase aluminum radiator from Summit or std 4 row recore $600 or 4 row high efficiency core recore $700. Ugh🙄 

Decided to go with the high efficiency core and just bite the bullet, like my buddy said you can never have to much cooling especially since I'm in So Cal and i have an A/C car.

Back on to wiring.

6 hours ago, Andy H said:

So i pulled the radiator out and took it to the local radiator shop, yes there is a few left, this guy has been at the same location for 49 years started with his dad when he was 17.

So radiator core old/ tired no good so my choices was $370 coldcase aluminum radiator from Summit or std 4 row recore $600 or 4 row high efficiency core recore $700. Ugh🙄 

Decided to go with the high efficiency core and just bite the bullet, like my buddy said you can never have to much cooling especially since I'm in So Cal and i have an A/C car.

Back on to wiring.

And you know it’s going to be good for many miles to come mate 

It's a pain I also experienced but you need one of those black things that sit in front of the engine and that nobody ever sees or thinks about.

Just like you, Andy, I took mine to some crusty old fossil who had been making radiators since dinosaurs roamed the earth and he rattled off what he was going to do - something about larger internal channels and more per inch as well as more cooling fins per inch. Gotta say - car sits on 180° no matter what and I live in a hot place. It cost a lot but as Kiwi said, once it's done it's done for the next 20 or so years.

6 hours ago, Fitzy said:

It's a pain I also experienced but you need one of those black things that sit in front of the engine and that nobody ever sees or thinks about.

Just like you, Andy, I took mine to some crusty old fossil who had been making radiators since dinosaurs roamed the earth and he rattled off what he was going to do - something about larger internal channels and more per inch as well as more cooling fins per inch. Gotta say - car sits on 180° no matter what and I live in a hot place. It cost a lot but as Kiwi said, once it's done it's done for the next 20 or so years.

Yeah and that was the discussion,it will last.

The radiator guy claimed that the aluminum ones last 2-4 years and can't be repaired so he had stopped selling them.

And now we are playing with wires

Was not sure if if it's s better place to post this here but here it goes.

So I'm Sweden taking care of some not so fun family stuff but we are staying with an old friend and today we went for a drive in his Bonneville.

He got a 1960 and he is the second owner ( there was a dealer involved also I'm not sure if that counts)  the car came from Texas where the original owner lived when he passed away.

Originally the car was purchased in Hollywood and the owner lived in various places in Orange county only a few miles away from where I live.

He has lots of documentation and one of the papers was about an accident in 1964 when the car was rear-ended and the funny part is that the lady that hit the car lived about one block away from my house, the world is small sometimes.

Beautiful car!