next up is to make trans cooler lines but don't know how they where run stock, between pan and exhaust or on the outside of the exhaust along the frame? anyone got some pics?

33 minutes ago, Andy H said:

next up is to make trans cooler lines but don't know how they where run stock, between pan and exhaust or on the outside of the exhaust along the frame? anyone got some pics?

mine hug the pan mate, and have little metal straps holding them ..... kinda important as the with the torque of the motor you want them hard fixed and facing out the front, then a nice 3- 4 inches of hose too the cooler

So i finally found some pictures of how the trans cooler lines are supposed to run an it's apparently on the outside of the manifold so i made some lines pretty close to that, had to make one splice on the line that goes to the left side of the car, they did not have any longer one's, they turned out ok but still waiting for som clips/ clamps from inline tube to hold the lines together.

Got the adjustable thermostat housing to work with the hose i got from Ames, didn't care for the shiny look so i bead blasted it and painted it to look more stock.

Got a new alternator from power master, not a big fan of the color of the pulley and fan but I'll leave it at least for now.

Had a old 19" fan leftover from some other car and it fits in n the shroud.

Next up is the bracket for throttle and kick down cable's, because of the Edelbrock intake nothing fit's.

 

Edited August 24, 20223 yr by Andy H

Lookin good Andy 

Andy am i right in seeing that you have saddled the trans cooler lines to the chassis ? and they are hard tube straight into the trans connection ?

 if so, you need to make allowance for the torque of the motor, the engine mounts will twist the motor clock wise and anti clockwise every time you hit the go pedal or stomp the breaks , the connections onto the trans will loosen and leak.

Add 4 inches of flexible hose straight out of the trans to allow for flex. 

 my 64 is the other way around, i have hard tube from the trans hard mounted to the sump bolts then rubber hose off the front of the motor to the cooler in the radiator  

certainly looking super clean !!! and i do like that painted thermostat housing ! wayyyy better than chrome 

Oh and i do like your Plumbing skills! you could be a plumber mate !!!

I'd like to know what an adjustable thermostat housing is.

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

I'd like to know what an adjustable thermostat housing is.

Mate !

the 2 bolt flange is separate from the housing . So you can swivel the neck to any direction 

then clamp it down 

8 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Andy am i right in seeing that you have saddled the trans cooler lines to the chassis ? and they are hard tube straight into the trans connection ?

 if so, you need to make allowance for the torque of the motor, the engine mounts will twist the motor clock wise and anti clockwise every time you hit the go pedal or stomp the breaks , the connections onto the trans will loosen and leak.

Add 4 inches of flexible hose straight out of the trans to allow for flex. 

 my 64 is the other way around, i have hard tube from the trans hard mounted to the sump bolts then rubber hose off the front of the motor to the cooler in the radiator  

certainly looking super clean !!! and i do like that painted thermostat housing ! wayyyy better than chrome 

Oh and i do like your Plumbing skills! you could be a plumber mate !!!

That's the way they stock trans cooler lines are run and mounted took quite a while before i found some pictures of it and i also had my stock line but they where pretty twisted up.

Most older cars have one piece tubes all the way but the one's i have done in the past have been run next to the oil pan and out in front.

I believe that most cars that has hoses at one end has been cut and modified, we will find out how it works.

6 hours ago, Fitzy said:

I'd like to know what an adjustable thermostat housing is.

JSD M073 Pontiac Polished Aluminum Water Neck Thermostat Housing 326 350 389 400 421 455 https://a.co/d/7Pjkjif

Didn't care for the shiny look so i bead blasted it and painted it 😁

Agree with the 1 piece lines Andy.  Right/wrong, I use a 1 piece hold down with 2 rubber grommets built in to give it some flex.  I see what your sayin KIWI, but to me adding rubber is 2 more chances per line of a leak.  We have all done it to fix a prob, but I wouldn't mess up the beautiful work Andy's done.

59 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

Agree with the 1 piece lines Andy.  Right/wrong, I use a 1 piece hold down with 2 rubber grommets built in to give it some flex.  I see what your sayin KIWI, but to me adding rubber is 2 more chances per line of a leak.  We have all done it to fix a prob, but I wouldn't mess up the beautiful work Andy's done.

I bet most of the time the rubber lines where added when the lines cracked/ leaked because of to much flexing, a lot of newer cars have hoses crimped on to the hardlines, i thought it was a little different with the way the lines was routed via the frame but that's how the factory did it.

17 minutes ago, Andy H said:

I bet most of the time the rubber lines where added when the lines cracked/ leaked because of to much flexing, a lot of newer cars have hoses crimped on to the hardlines, i thought it was a little different with the way the lines was routed via the frame but that's how the factory did it.

I've had a problem with rusting out, but never probs associated with flexing on any car. Then again, I've mostly had a stick in what I drive over the years.  Different story for the wife's car.

so if thats factory it must be ok

50 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

so if thats factory it must be ok

As long it last until the warranty is over 😁 doesn't mean it is the best solution but it's cheap and it works good enough 🤔

Next is throttle cable bracket, any ideas? Pictures?  Have Edelbrock performer intake and need One for throttle and kick down cable 

Edited August 25, 20223 yr by Andy H

Not sure if this will help you or not Andy. But when I switched to my Edelbrock carb I couldn't use the linkage I had. So I switched to a throttle cable. The first two pics are the bracket I made to use before painting it. When I added the kick down cable I switched to this bracket (pic 3&4). Lokar also sells a bracket. Thats where I got the idea for the 2nd bracket. I just couldn't justify spending $100 on that little bracket. Hope it helps bro.

 

 

 

Edited August 25, 20223 yr by Wrongway

It helps, thank you, so a lot of cars probably have a rod instead of a cable stock ( mine has cable stock) i asked in three places but you are the only one that posted some pictures so maybe most cars have rods?  I ordered a bracket that bolt to the intake but it doesn't have any mounting provisions for the cables so it is only a partial solution.

I also have a old bracket that bolts to the carb bolts like in our pictures but to fit it needs to be modified.

Glad I could help bro. I think most of the cars that had floor mounted gas peddles had the rod style linkage. At least all that I've seen. I've enjoyed watching your build man, keep up the good work.

Ok so cable bracket built/ modified no on to fuel pipe/ return spring  bracket that will be tomorrow, getting closer to start up just need a ignition system getting a petronix distributor and coil, have to get a hold of a buddy that used to work there wanted to see if maybe they have a as cast distributor housing instead of the shiny one ( i have one for my -32) but not sure they make one. See the theme here? 🤔😁 Not so shiny. I'll bring the bracket to work on Monday and bead blast it then paint.

Got some important pieces to make it run so maybe in a week or so.

All they had for Pontiac was the billet style of distributor, would have preferred the as cast stock looking, the picture is with my -32 distributor next to the Pontiac one.

Also got this cool relay for the starter, all the Cummins engines at work use it but they are 24v so i ordered s 12v version, we'll have to see if I can make it fit/ work.

Great job.  Looks good.  You must be antsy to fire it up.

On 9/11/2022 at 7:19 AM, JUSTA6 said:

Great job.  Looks good.  You must be antsy to fire it up.

Yes for sure, wanted to fire it up and brake in the cam this coming weekend so my son could be there before he and the wife takes of to move grandpa for three weeks.

Took the distributor over to my buddy and put it on the distributor machine to tweek the timing curve, fired it up and it worked for a whole 3 seconds before it quit, sent it back and ordered a new one.so it might not get here until next week, may have to go home from early one day to fire it up.

Got the plug wires done and starter relay installed. 

I like your idea of the starter relay Andy! that takes all the current load away from your ignition switch

Edited September 16, 20223 yr by 64 kiwi boni

9 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

I like your idea of the starter relay Andy! that takes all the current load away from your ignition switch

Yes a 60 year old one and the safety neutral switch also+ going through the firewall connector,all the Cummins engines at work use these but a 24 v version and they rarely die.

what are you guys using to Secure these to the inner fender?

Anybody using some kind of plastic clips instead of the factory staples?

Update on the distributor cluster *******

Sent it back to Amazon, ordered a new one but no shipping date so I'm waiting and  finally they canceled the order 🙄

Ordered a new one from Summit and new shipping date is 12 of October 🤬

Should have contacted petronix instead since they are somewhat lokal, to late now so stay tuned.

Edited September 29, 20223 yr by Andy H

On 8/11/2022 at 12:34 AM, Andy H said:

next up is to make trans cooler lines but don't know how they where run stock, between pan and exhaust or on the outside of the exhaust along the frame? anyone got some pics?

Here ya go Bro.....Simply the best in the business.  Your lines should have the same fittings on both ends trans and radiator.

https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/catalogs