Great coverage and pic's of your show.  Almost like you've done this before. 😎  Must have been sooo proud to show off your ride after all the work.     Congrat's mate.

As I said, I wanted to give a brief description for the benefit of our American viewers but...anyway, they'll work it out.

Did you see the Cortina on the trailer for sale? $5800. I thought of you when I saw it coz it looks bent and f@#ked!

Yes, a good mix of machinery. The Cairns event is the big one in August. I'll try and get some better pics then - I had to try and time it when there were less people crowding about. Every time I got a car in focus, 10 peeps would immediately pounce on the car and peer into it, thereby ruining almost every shot. I'll take a cattle prod to the next one...

Yes I saw the mk2 cortina on a trailer !!! 
5 k is a complete bargin mate !!!!

did you see it’s a 2 door !!! 
That’s a 30 k car on that trailer !!! 

And if it’s a lotus add another fifty thousand too that !!! 
did you check it out at all ? 
lotus cortina’s had alloy bonnet, doors and boot lid and the twin cam engine 

30k for THAT? Yes, I did notice it was the 240 two door. I know you Kiwis are potty about old English Fords - I never liked any of them. When the Brits turned their hand to cars, something always never quite worked out right. When they get it right, the cars are superb, but unfortunately that seems to be the exception rather than the rule.

Yes, I was quite proud to dust off the GP and show it to the wider community. It generated plenty of interest and I was forever being accosted by old men rabbiting on about what they used to own. Old people...who's got time for them? 😁 I would have been preferred to have been harrassed by pretty young women but they instinctively kept their distance, dammit!

A couple parked their 72 Vette next to mine and not a single person asked about their car, yet mine attracted LOTS of curious onlookers. I felt a little sad for the owner but Corvettes are like Mustangs - everyone's got one.

Pontiac ONE, Corvette ZERO.

I took the GP in for a final front end alignment today but the dude had a look at the car and declared that his namby pamby computerised camera equipment couldn't line up the front and rear wheels due to the fact that the clamping device wasn't configured for an old car where the wheels sit inside the body, as opposed to the way modern cars have their wheels flush with the body. But, he's going to try and figure a way around it. On my way home, I thought it was time to brim the tank again so that I could finally arrive at a fuel consumption figure, as the gas gauge is pretty damn vague and I don't want to be THAT classic car owner on the side of the road with the hood up, waiting for a gas can to turn up.

This may be of mild interest to you guys: I had recorded the mileage upon brimming the tank initially, covered 207 miles, then rebrimmed. After much calculation (we buy fuel in litres) it turns out I'm averaging 15.6 miles per US gallon, which is 18.8 miles per Imperial gallon. I figure that's not bad for 1.9 tons (I took it over a weighbridge) and on an engine that's still loosening up. I reckon I'll easily achieve 20mpg (Imperial) once it's fully run in. Mind you, the bulk of my driving is steady cruising on mainly flat highway at about 65mph, so I guess those figures sound more plausible taking that into account.

I also calculated that the GP's engine is almost exactly 5 times the size of the Yaris engine, yet only uses twice as much fuel...and sounds heaps better! The Yaris sounds like a sewing machine.

I have a question: did these old cars ever come with a headlight relay? I have checked the factory wiring diagram and cannot find one. My nice new headlight switch has evidence of melted plastic and the lights will go out after a few minutes and then come back on, almost as if a protective circuit breaker cuts in and out. I've never fitted a relay: any tips? I don't ever intend driving at night but I need those things to work without the car catching fire. I'm only assuming a relay will take the bulk of the current away from the switch.

2 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

I have a question: did these old cars ever come with a headlight relay? I have checked the factory wiring diagram and cannot find one. My nice new headlight switch has evidence of melted plastic and the lights will go out after a few minutes and then come back on, almost as if a protective circuit breaker cuts in and out. I've never fitted a relay: any tips? I don't ever intend driving at night but I need those things to work without the car catching fire. I'm only assuming a relay will take the bulk of the current away from the switch.

my 64 doesn't have a relay mate, but i do think there is a bi- metal over load strip on the switch from memory 

the relay would be a good idea 👍

And i am the same! the 64 isn't going anywhere in the dark

That sounds right - I sorta remember reading about some sort of overload protection in that switch. Do you think a relay will reduce the current going to the switch? I don't even know where in the wiring I should locate it. Come on - you know electrics. I'll buy you a beer if you tell me.

ONE beer. 😁

Oh - one more question. What do you guys do about tyre pressures? My workshop manual tells me that it's 24 front and 22 rear. Of course, it was printed in 1965 and so those pressures are for crossplies. My 205 radials look too flat even with 30 in them. Today I upped it to 40psi all around. I know radials look a little flat no matter how much air you put in them, but I somehow feel better with 40. It's suspending 2 tonnes after all.

Hey Kiwi - you can still drive in the dark without lights what with those enormous bitchin' whitewalls - they'll reflect enough light to illuminate fhe road.

12 hours ago, Fitzy said:

That sounds right - I sorta remember reading about some sort of overload protection in that switch. Do you think a relay will reduce the current going to the switch? I don't even know where in the wiring I should locate it. Come on - you know electrics. I'll buy you a beer if you tell me.

so looking at the wiring diagram, i would be cutting into the feed to the switch, put that load through a relay and use the light switch to trigger the relay. and you will need to do that for both high and low beam its certainly will help with the life of the switch !!... oh beer!! dont talk to me about beer right now!! i am full of the bloody flu ! stuck at home trying to get rid of it, and no pressure! the sparky is here tomorrow to do the pre wire of the additions, i have to get the gas fire piped and installed this weekend as the insulation guys are here Tuesday to fit the wall and ceiling insulation (cheaper for them to supply AND install than i can even buy it for)

13 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Oh - one more question. What do you guys do about tyre pressures? My workshop manual tells me that it's 24 front and 22 rear. Of course, it was printed in 1965 and so those pressures are for crossplies. My 205 radials look too flat even with 30 in them. Today I upped it to 40psi all around. I know radials look a little flat no matter how much air you put in them, but I somehow feel better with 40. It's suspending 2 tonnes after all.

30 psi would have been my answer mate, but to be 100% ask your tire shop guy or google your tire brand and size and see what the manufactures says the psi should be 

13 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Hey Kiwi - you can still drive in the dark without lights what with those enormous bitchin' whitewalls - they'll reflect enough light to illuminate fhe road.

mate!!!! every time i walk past the 64 i look........ i smile!!!!!  

i keep looking at that mk2 cortina for 5k ! mate you should have grabbed that ! 

Ahem. Well, unlike you I don't have a wallet bursting to the seams with endless amounts of hundred dollar bills spilling out of it. I was lucky to afford a hot dog.

I'll bet you anything it's still for sale. Do you really think it's an investment? Don't forget, they have a cult following in UnZud - not the same sort of reverence here.

2 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Ahem. Well, unlike you I don't have a wallet bursting to the seams with endless amounts of hundred dollar bills spilling out of it. I was lucky to afford a hot dog.

I'll bet you anything it's still for sale. Do you really think it's an investment? Don't forget, they have a cult following in UnZud - not the same sort of reverence here.

have a look on your car sales sites you will be very surprised !

here is a mk1 cortina on trademe 

 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/ford/cortina/listing/3677194715?bof=wlvPzAUz

here is a ozzy four door gt model 

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1969-ford-cortina-gt-mk-ii-manual/SSE-AD-7399608/?Cr=1

and a ozzy 2 door 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gawler/cars-vans-utes/mk2-ford-cortina-2-door-5-speed/1298130048

and this one mate !!!! i need to correct you ! ozzys are ford crazy too ! 20k for a standard 4 door.. check this out !

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/rankin-park/cars-vans-utes/1970-ford-cortina-440-manual-sedan/1297396330

I checked 'em all out - lotta money for an old Cortina. Well, if I see it at the Cairns Swap Meet & Car Show, I'll have a look.

11 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

I checked 'em all out - lotta money for an old Cortina. Well, if I see it at the Cairns Swap Meet & Car Show, I'll have a look.

Mate ! 
It’s not justA cortina’s it’s every old car . 
ppl are putting their money into anything that’s not a bank ! 
the return is way better and safer 

Yes, I am aware of that. 30k for a 6 cylinder 3 on the tree 4 door HQ with a bench seat and if you're lucky, a heater & radio. When I was young, old Australian cars were all we could afford and I owned plenty, so I cannot bring myself to shell out crazy dollars for the same old crap we were forced to drive 30 years ago. They were never that good either - it's just that anything old is now 'classic' and the price goes through the roof. I'm glad I took a gamble and went for something well out of the ordinary.

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

Yes, I am aware of that. 30k for a 6 cylinder 3 on the tree 4 door HQ with a bench seat and if you're lucky, a heater & radio. When I was young, old Australian cars were all we could afford and I owned plenty, so I cannot bring myself to shell out crazy dollars for the same old crap we were forced to drive 30 years ago. They were never that good either - it's just that anything old is now 'classic' and the price goes through the roof. I'm glad I took a gamble and went for something well out of the ordinary.

Spoken like a true Pontiac guy !! 

Mate u wait till you get here. In September ! 

I am genuinely excited. I want to see all your cars, drink all your beer and shovel endless quantities of pepperoni pizza down my throat. 

On 7/12/2022 at 4:06 PM, Fitzy said:

I have a question: did these old cars ever come with a headlight relay? I have checked the factory wiring diagram and cannot find one. My nice new headlight switch has evidence of melted plastic and the lights will go out after a few minutes and then come back on, almost as if a protective circuit breaker cuts in and out. I've never fitted a relay: any tips? I don't ever intend driving at night but I need those things to work without the car catching fire. I'm only assuming a relay will take the bulk of the current away from the switch.

No relay but putting one in is a good idea, actually two would be good, one for low beam and one for high beam.

I would put them in the engine compartment and get the feed / power directly from the battery with a fuse in between, maybe the power point at the horn relay?

here's a schematic I found online.

I like to put relays on for the starter also.

Nice work, Andy. Thank you. I'll have a think and will post whatever disaster I eventually concocted, thereby guaranteeing that the car will be in flames in no time.

Oh ! Andy 

cool systematic 👍👍👍👍👍👍

I completely agree with 2 relays 

one for each high and low as each draws as much current load 👍

And fitzy andy is right , a good load point to get your power supply from  would  be the horn Relay on your inner fender on the drivers side …. And next to that relay is your feed wires from the switch to the head lights ! 
you don’t even have to go under you dash to to this up grade ! 
you could mount the 2 relays next to the horn relay , on that inner fender 

then cut the high beam feed from the switch and put it through your first relay 

And do the same with the low beam wire !!!

easy as ! 
And it would be super tidy 

I will draw you a picture of what I am thinking in the morning ! 
its 11.40’pm and I am going to bed ! 🍻

10 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Nice work, Andy. Thank you. I'll have a think and will post whatever disaster I eventually concocted, thereby guaranteeing that the car will be in flames in no time.

Have s’mores fixings ready next to the fire extinguisher. That way you have choices mate! 

Hey, check this out. It's asking me if I'm tired of these ads and do I want to remove them. Allow me to be clear about this: I want as many of THESE ads as you can muster, Ringo.

3 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Hey, check this out. It's asking me if I'm tired of these ads and do I want to remove them. Allow me to be clear about this: I want as many of THESE ads as you can muster, Ringo.

Those are some good ads 😂

Can you guys give me a hand here? Today I took El Poncho out for it's fortnightly run and all of a sudden it developed a miss. Felt like fuel starvation but more likely electrical, as the fuel system is so simple. I get home and check everything. Fuel is easiest and I was always going to fit a new inline filter anyway in case the old one picked up any crud that may have fallen into the 57 year old tank. As I undid the old filter, fuel spurted out at considerable pressure. Well that didn't look right. I know there needs to be a little pressure in there, but this was too much. I wondered if the old original gauze filter that sits in the carby inlet was blocked so I took it out. I couldn't blow through it. It was even difficult to push compressed air through it. I decided it was one of those old skool items that are now superseded by modern disposable inline filters, so I took it out and left it out. Took the car for a run but that miss was still there. I pulled the spark plugs and noticed the enormous gap. I'm pretty sure I was told 45 thou for those plugs, but a little research said 35 was better for non HEI, so I closed all the gaps. By the way, they were all a nice tan colour with no cracked insulation or any other visible defects. Fuel pump is new and is obviously working. Fuel is fresh. Carby was rebuilt. Air cleaner new. I think we can disregard fuel at the moment. My rat chewed solid core leads are still on the engine and I've tested them all for resistance and they're all good. Yes, I will replace them...soon. The coil is a 40kV Flamethrower and it's running Ignitor 1 ignition. Now, this is where I need help. Pertronix says to ensure 12V in to the coil from a switched source. I am still using my factory installed resistance wire that gives me 6.6V at the coil with the ignition 'on,' engine not running. I suspect this is the issue. To be honest, there has always been some hesitation when I give the go pedal a shove at low speeds, but seems to be fine at cruise.

I thought I could get a nice solid 12V from my fuse box (switched source) but I ran a wire from there direct to the coil, tested it for 12V at the coil but car would not start. I think the only way I can get 12V switched is from the ignition switch itself. We all know that when you start your car, any accessories that might be on almost stop as all power is diverted to the starting procedure, so I guess that's why I can't get 12V from my fuse box. The attached wiring diagrams show a pink wire exiting the ignition switch and becoming the resistance wire, but it somehow changes colour to orange/white/ppl (what might ppl be?) That wire then becomes the pink/black wire that feeds the coil at it's positive terminal. I'm happy to splice into the wires out of the ignition switch but which one? I tried the pink, but inexplicably the engine wouldn't fire until I released the switch from it's start position - it then caught and ran!

Kiwi - you removed your ignition switch. Do I recall it was dramatic for you, or is it easy? I think I'm gonna have to pull mine and experiment with a test light to see what wire does what as the engine cranks and then runs. Once sorted, I'm hoping this is the end of the misfiring problem.

Any ideas as to how I can tap into a nice easy 12V switched source?

Good luck Fitzy. When I rewired my car I never did figure out what all 9 pins went to. I talked to electricians and tech support at painless, then talked to the people tech support talk to when they need help. Spent 4 months and finally gave up. Thats when I built my starter controls into the heater. I would think since yours is still stock you won't have the issues I did. Good luck buddy.