1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

I googled 'carter afb air bypass' and came up with a wealth of info:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/tech/carburetor-classic-the-carter-afb-has-it-really-been-63-years/&ved=2ahUKEwiplb2UranwAhWDzDgGHXvoD5kQFjABegQIFhAC&usg=AOvVaw0TtvPIA9F06GS6oOQfh6c6

Also check thecarburetorshop. Heaps of good info.

Great read mate but no mention of adjustment of that air bypass, same with the carb shop link

Is this not what you're after?

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

Is this not what you're after?

Perfect !!! thanks Fitzy 👍

Spent a few hours today sanding the hood and got the first coat of 2 pack primer on 👍

Just starting to get dark and managed to get the cowl panel nice and straight again

but that’s it for this weekend , 

oh look it’s beer o clock 🍻🍻🍻🍻👍

this is what it looked like before, the hood would have pushed back on it, in the impact.

yet another little thing that is a repercussion of the smash.. but guess what !!!

i think its pretty much it ! i have had this car completely apart now, shes got nothing left to hide !!! hahaha  

Edited May 2, 20215 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Mate, lookin' good. I want to paint under my hood and the engine bay as soon as the donk comes out. A most satisfying job, especially when visitors ask to see the engine and you feel proud every time you open 'er up and everything looks great.

I think I took too much heroin when I decided to paint my headers blue. Once they heat up a few times the colour should tone down somewhat.

1 minute ago, Fitzy said:

Mate, lookin' good. I want to paint under my hood and the engine bay as soon as the donk comes out. A most satisfying job, especially when visitors ask to see the engine and you feel proud every time you open 'er up and everything looks great.

I think I took too much heroin when I decided to paint my headers blue. Once they heat up a few times the colour should tone down somewhat.

yeah mate, its always nice to have the engine bay clean, shit of a job to detail but worth it.... having said that, you really dont have to go show quality, just keep it simple, clean everything, a little bit of paint, tidy up the wires, and justA look for anything that bugs the shit out of you and clean/ paint it up!

Hew Kiwi, I have a question. Since you seem to own every object in the known universe, can you recommend a decent harmonic balancer pulley? Supercheap sell one for about 40 bucks but I'd rather something that will work more than once.

i haven't shown my wiring yet but there is this bloody ugly as horn rely that my main battery feed goes to then a second cable goes down to the new starter.... i am going to get rid of it... it ugly, its rusty, and i am sure i can do a much neater job.

And have a single main feed cable straight to my starter at the same time... i have a plan !!

19 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Hew Kiwi, I have a question. Since you seem to own every object in the known universe, can you recommend a decent harmonic balancer pulley? Supercheap sell one for about 40 bucks but I'd rather something that will work more than once.

whats wrong with your factory one?, i dont fancy aftermarket shit !

15 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

i haven't shown my wiring yet but there is this bloody ugly as horn rely that my main battery feed goes to then a second cable goes down to the new starter.... i am going to get rid of it... it ugly, its rusty, and i am sure i can do a much neater job.

And have a single main feed cable straight to my starter at the same time... i have a plan !!

whats wrong with your factory one?, i dont fancy aftermarket shit !

got a remember this is my very first poncho Fitzy,,, i am learning like you mate...

super cheap are great for lots of things but those kids have no idea what they are selling you !!!

JustA clean up your stock steel one and reuse it 

Edited May 2, 20215 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Uh, no...I'll need to remove it when I tear down the engine. I'll be keeping the stock balancer, don't worry. I keep reading horror stories of cheap pullers failing, or stripping the threads whilst the balancer stays put.

2 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Uh, no...I'll need to remove it when I tear down the engine. I'll be keeping the stock balancer, don't worry. I keep reading horror stories of cheap pullers failing, or stripping the threads whilst the balancer stays put.

nah, dont over think it mate, it will come of piece of piss, if your worried, justA borrow one from a garage, in give the guy a box of beer

Give away beer???

Dude, here on Planet Earth we never give beer away. I'd rather buy a crappy Chinese made puller than give away a single beer. I'll plunge in and buy something that should work. If it doesn't,  I'll collect the metal dust it turned into and will demand a refund.

Hi Kiwi, I see you have your own lifts. I bought a portable lift that has about 64” length on each side. Can I lift car from side frame ok or does it need to extend all the way close to the wheels where there is a flat landing metal pad? Another words, is anywhere along the bottom rail ok? This is a picture taken from the tire store. It seems like they just caught the bottom rail up from the actual support pad. Thanks! Sorry, don’t know why pics load upside down 

Edited May 4, 20215 yr by Bonneville convertable64

6 hours ago, Bonneville convertable64 said:

Hi Kiwi, I see you have your own lifts. I bought a portable lift that has about 64” length on each side. Can I lift car from side frame ok or does it need to extend all the way close to the wheels where there is a flat landing metal pad? Another words, is anywhere along the bottom rail ok? This is a picture taken from the tire store. It seems like they just caught the bottom rail up from the actual support pad. Thanks! Sorry, don’t know why pics load upside down 

Hi Del, i usually get the arms to sit on the big flat area where the rear trailing arm mounts and up front where the chassis turns 90 degrees inward behind the wheel. i see with your lift you may not be able to reach that far... and i am pretty sure your convertible will have the same chassis as my 2 door, 

she might flex a bit but its worth a try, justA once you lift her, dont open the doors.

also from your pictures i would be moving the hoist forward a bit, the front is the heaviest with your motor and all, so maybe center the hoist justA forward of the b pillar, lift a little and see how it behaves.

Hopefully the guys can give their thoughts on this too ???

Edited May 4, 20215 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Great advice! Thanks 

Hay del, your welcome, justA be car-full lifting your rag top girl... oh by the way.... how about some more pictures !!! 

 you know we all love pics around here!! 

got another issue some one may be able to help me with, my ignition switch is dodgee as i can justA bout find that spot in the key where its not sending power to my new starter motor, !! 😡

i have been onto ames, no replacement ignition switch, google search, found me next to zip.

does anyone know where i can buy a new 1964 Bonneville/ wide tracker ignition switch ?. its a 9 pin and 63-64 are the same.

 not sure what you did Wrongway as i did read you changed your s ??? 🙄

It looks like the 9 pin is for cars with a/c, otherwise it's 7 pin.

Here's one on ebay, but he wants $215 for it, although it is NOS.

Here's a GM style universal fit 10 pin from Speeway Motors for about $22!

57 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Here's a GM style universal fit 10 pin from Speeway Motors for about $22!

thanks Fitzy, looks like i am best to make a universal one fit, 200 notes for a nos one !! yeah NO !

You might just need a new barrel, like one from a local Parisienne or Impala, or even a Holden one might fit.

FYI I meticulously cleaned up all my switchwear (all had surface rust) and managed to keep everything working. You might try pulling the old switch out and fiddling with it. Could just be a loose connector on the back. Being low mileage, I wouldn't think it would have worn out already.

5 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

You might just need a new barrel, like one from a local Parisienne or Impala, or even a Holden one might fit.

FYI I meticulously cleaned up all my switchwear (all had surface rust) and managed to keep everything working. You might try pulling the old switch out and fiddling with it. Could just be a loose connector on the back. Being low mileage, I wouldn't think it would have worn out already.

thats justA what i will do, 👍

The boss has had me painting all day , but I managed to get half a hour at the end of the day justA to find the lock seal bags with the hood hinge bolts and prep them with my favourite crc rust kill/ primer and get some satin black paint on them 👍

note the super expensive paint platform , that came with 24 beers 🍻🍻🍻

And today I got the hood on... what a major pain in the arse that was , so pleased it is only at primer stage .... 

NOTE TO ALL. Trial fit everything before you finish paint all you panels !!! 

I spent 1 minute bolting my painted hinges and primed hood on , then the best part of 2 hour moving every single front panel around to get it right !! 

At one point , I justA walked away and did something else, it was doing my head in how the hood hinges reacted to my adjustments .

i ended up measuring the front clip across each fire wall bolt to each hood bump stop and found I was out by the best part of 15mm/ half inch  

So on a 64 there is only 2 bolts holding the whole front clip onto the chassis, i undid these and move the whole front clip over till i had the diagonal measurements right.... now if your doing this .. i measured from the bolt on the fire wall that holds the fender on    ( top one) across to the bump stop bolt/ rubber on the radiator cross member on the opposite side.

 i had already paralleled my hood with the cowl panel, so i knew that my hood was square to the body.... give or take a little that you can adjust the cowl panel... and they do move a bit !!

Gota remember, i am dealing with a car that clearly had a major frontal impact, AND it was built in 1964, so panel alignment  was never flash back then, mind you new cars are not any flasher !!! 

Once i am  happy with were it all is ......., ( and i am not there  yet) i ran out time today, i will drill a 1/8 hole in the hinges to mark were they need to stay so that i can refit it back in exactly the same location after i pull it off to paint. ( if you are dealing with a finished painted car, justA use a marker pen and scribe around your hinge  mounts... trust me, it will save you so much hair pulling !

i have also moved the 2 mounts over on the chassis to radiator cross member  and they will need to be re-calibrated ( flash kiwi  word for grind out the hole to make fit)  

 

And looking more like a super cool wide tracker very day i work on her... so pleased with how she looks

Edited May 9, 20215 yr by 64 kiwi boni