Cool aye 

8 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Wrongway !!!

stop what your doing !!!

theres a guy who can fix your wheel !!!

look !!! 👀 

Thats beautiful!

I justa sent them an email bro. I talked to a guy from Ney York a couple of years ago.  He claims to have to original tooling that Pontiac used to male these steering wheels. He can only redo the factory colors and quoted me $1600 to redo my steering wheel. That was way too high for me. Here's where I'm at. It's almost done, but I've a few more things I need to work out before I'm satisfied. I got to this point and got aggravated and hung it on the wall for about 2 years  now that the engine is running and sounding "right" I figured I'd go back to working on this while waiting for the T block for the brakes.

Edited May 15, 20251 yr by Wrongway

Got the front bumper put on today, and the side mirrors. I know, it does sound like much but that's the first time I've had a straight front bumper on this car! My parts guy dropped by and brought me the brake line tee I was waiting for so hopefully I get time between rain showers to get it on and test the brakes and FINALLY go for a test drive. He did give me the bad news that today was his last day, so yeah, that sucks. We also did a little trading on some other stuff, and I ended up with this mini starter as part of the deal. Can anybody tell me if it will work a Pontiac? It says Chevy small & big block 153/168 fly wheels 1967-1986. My motor IS a 68' but I didn't figure it would work since it say's Chevy. Figuring it was justa going to sit on the shelf I took it as part of the deal but don't really have much in it.

It could work mate 

you will need to adjust it’s angle for fitting in the other side of the block

but I don’t see why it wouldn’t

bolt pattern is all you need to check

the cog will be right

and you can soon space it  

Ok cool. I was hoping it might but honestly didn't think it would. I have learned to double check stuff with yall.  I guess when mine goes out I'll try to swap that in. Does anybody know anything about that brand? I looked it up and seem to have mixed reviews? Has anybody used this brand before?

Are you still in one piece?  Looks like yur whole state was beat up pretty back with the tornado's.

Yes sir, thanks asking. We got mostly rain and wind. We were lucky compared to other areas throughout the state. 

This is probably a stupid question, but here we go. Has anybody used a thread sealer on a brake system? So, the rubber brake hose goes over the rearend and connects to the top port of a tee brass tee block. Both rear wheel brake lines then connect to the tee. I had a very slow leak on the back driver's side where the brake line connected to the tee. Thought maybe it was the flare I cut, so I reflared it. Still leaked so I flipped the line around and used the factory flare side in the tee block. It still leaked. So, I bought a new tee block and the slow leak to the right rear brake line stopped. But now, where the hose screws into the top port of the tee block it's leaking and dripping really bad. I'm going to take the tee back and see if I can exchange it. But now I'm curious to know, could thread sealer be used on a brake system If need be?

1 hour ago, Wrongway said:

This is probably a stupid question, but here we go. Has anybody used a thread sealer on a brake system? So, the rubber brake hose goes over the rearend and connects to the top port of a tee brass tee block. Both rear wheel brake lines then connect to the tee. I had a very slow leak on the back driver's side where the brake line connected to the tee. Thought maybe it was the flare I cut, so I reflared it. Still leaked so I flipped the line around and used the factory flare side in the tee block. It still leaked. So, I bought a new tee block and the slow leak to the right rear brake line stopped. But now, where the hose screws into the top port of the tee block it's leaking and dripping really bad. I'm going to take the tee back and see if I can exchange it. But now I'm curious to know, could thread sealer be used on a brake system If need be?

IMG_9841.MOV

mate, short answer NO !!! dont even think about it 

that rubber hose has a conical end, its designed to go into the correct tee, same goes for the left and right Double flared tubes

some things not seating correctly, all these joints must be 100%

get a new tee, use a flare ring spanner to tighten them up not a open ender, it will distort the nut 

justA have a good look at your double flares too, i like to use a steel fitting to screw your flare into first so it beds good, especailly if your having a seating issue, you can crank it up way tight and then try it in your brass tee, as you know brass is soft 

Yep - what he said. My mechanic showed me a trick where if you have a pipe leaking, loosen & retighten (gently) several times. If the thread hasn't been cut properly this technique will slowly bring it to seat correctly. You can put a mark on the pipe and it's nut and then you'll know if it's moved. I did this on the master cylinder on my ute where the metal brake pipe screws into it and it worked a treat. Remember, g e n t l y..

Ok then, thanks. I did figure that thread seal was probably a bad idea, so I figured I'd ask. Another tee it is.

I agree 100% with what the boys justa mentioned above Wrongway. Thread Locker does make a hydraulic/pneumatic thread sealer but that would be an absolute last resort. The issue is the threads are not proper sealing or mating up for some reason.

Well, the good news is that she starts and still sounds great! I did replace that brake tee last week and it still leaked from the same port. So, I replaced it also. No leaks!!! Decided to wait on stripping down and redoing the steering wheel...again, at least until after the test drive. So, I bled the brakes today in hopes of that test drive. No luck. I have a strong stream of fluid after getting the air out of the lines. The pedal feels firm. As soon as I start the car, I lose all firmness, and the pedal goes to the floor with very little pressure. When I shut her off, the pedal feels like I never bled them.

Yip still air in there mate 

some times it easier to Pop the master cylinder off and bleed it in the vise 

and stick it back on 

 

When bleeding brakes, I learnt that before you start, pump the pedal about 50 times - that should get any air to the end of the lines near the bleeders. Push on pedal, slowly open bleeder, then close valve after watching for bubbles. Pedal must stay down after stroke otherwise air gets sucked in. As helper is handy - gotta keep master topped up.

Is master cylinder in good nick? Everything tight and in good order?

17 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

When bleeding brakes, I learnt that before you start, pump the pedal about 50 times - that should get any air to the end of the lines near the bleeders. Push on pedal, slowly open bleeder, then close valve after watching for bubbles. Pedal must stay down after stroke otherwise air gets sucked in. As helper is handy - gotta keep master topped up.

Is master cylinder in good nick? Everything tight and in good order?

I don’t have a brake helper so 

I invested in a bleeding tool 

it hooks to my compressor and sucks the shit out of the system 

all you do have to do is keep an eye on your reserve so it doesn’t run dry 

wayyyy easier than asking the boss to help me !!!!😜

7 hours ago, Fitzy said:

When bleeding brakes, I learnt that before you start, pump the pedal about 50 times - that should get any air to the end of the lines near the bleeders. Push on pedal, slowly open bleeder, then close valve after watching for bubbles. Pedal must stay down after stroke otherwise air gets sucked in. As helper is handy - gotta keep master topped up.

Is master cylinder in good nick? Everything tight and in good order?

Yeah, the master is new. I had my son in the car pumping, and he topped off the master after each wheel got finished. We bled them twice with a short brake in between before I started it. I did get a lot of air the first time. I was hoping its justa more air and not something else. Just thought I'd run it by y'all and let you know where were at.

Been a min since I gave y'all an update, since it's been too damn hot to work outside, I have returned to working on my steering wheel. This is seriously like the 6th time I've started over from scratch. I have tried multiple "molds" and various ways to contain the acrylic with no luck until this time. I do have pictures of the other failed attempts and the messes that were made. But this time I decided to justa make the mold out of thin cardboard and double tape all the seams with vinyl tape and then put a light coat of fiberglass over everything. and not use a release agent. The thought was justa sand off the fiberglass and cardboard. I also made it thick enough to have way more material to work with so I could shape it without have to add any later and "touch it up". This stuff is as thin as water when mixed and poured so touching up is almost impossible on any shape that is not completely flat. No doubt this is probably not the correct way to do this, but as I said I have tried multiple other ways, and multiple other acrylics and I was not happy with the results. The bottles were placed there to hold up the "cover" that I laid across it to keep the dust out. I let this cure for 1 week.

So, I started grinding away material two days ago. I'm happy with the way it looks right now. It's still clear with very little air bubbles. But while I had it in the vise yesterday using my Contour SCT to remove material it slipped out. I'm guessing that the vibration loosened the vice justa enough to let it slip out. It crashed hard. Looking at it I found a crack running threw it over halfway down and past the frame. Time to walk away. I decide last night to go back out and take another look. Rather than cut out that entire section of acrylic and start over again and building another mold, I drilled a tunnel into and around part of the frame so I can pour into the crack and then justa continue removing the rest of the material when it hardens. It will take 72hrs to cure and then I will have to do It again on the back side to repair the rest of the crack. Again, this is also probably not the right way to do this, but I am too damn old to change my name to "Rightway".

Hello Wrongway,

Never done it before but my idea would be to get a copper electrical conduit and use the tool from home depot to bend it to the correct circumference and cut it in half. the upper part of the half drill holes so you can inject the resin. once you do the upper part use the same mold for the lower half of the wheel.

Again I have never done it... I went the easy way out and bought the impala steering wheel from Amazon and made a 3d adapter for the column

Good luck either way!

I have my old steering wheel but I dont think it would help since most of the clear plastic is missing.

1 hour ago, 63grandprix said:

Hello Wrongway,

Never done it before but my idea would be to get a copper electrical conduit and use the tool from home depot to bend it to the correct circumference and cut it in half. the upper part of the half drill holes so you can inject the resin. once you do the upper part use the same mold for the lower half of the wheel.

Again I have never done it... I went the easy way out and bought the impala steering wheel from Amazon and made a 3d adapter for the column

Good luck either way!

I have my old steering wheel but I dont think it would help since most of the clear plastic is missing.

I so liked your impala wheel !!! After all the hours I spent on my 64 wheel !!! Would never bother again !!!

Wrongway … good on you mate for preserving!!!!

8 hours ago, 63grandprix said:

Never done it before but my idea would be to get a copper electrical conduit and use the tool from home depot to bend it to the correct circumference and cut it in half. the upper part of the half drill holes so you can inject the resin. once you do the upper part use the same mold for the lower half of the wheel.

I had actually thought about that, the concern was after bending the pipe and splitting it to fit over the frame that it wouldn't seal up without leaking, I also tried black rubber hose, that was a disaster. Gaps at the top from not being able to see into the hose while pouring. Leaking out the sides, justa mess. I switched to clear hose and was able to get rid of the gaps, but it still leaked out the sides. Couldn't get the sides to stop leaking no matter what I tried. It also didn't help that theses Pontiac steering wheels are not actually round, more of an oval. I finally got one to look good, multiple touch ups and sanding. Put it on my car and realized Pontiac was right, I needed finger groves! So tore it all back down and started again. If I'm not happy this time I'm painting it black and calling it DONE!

12 hours ago, Wrongway said:

I had actually thought about that, the concern was after bending the pipe and splitting it to fit over the frame that it wouldn't seal up without leaking, I also tried black rubber hose, that was a disaster. Gaps at the top from not being able to see into the hose while pouring. Leaking out the sides, justa mess. I switched to clear hose and was able to get rid of the gaps, but it still leaked out the sides. Couldn't get the sides to stop leaking no matter what I tried. It also didn't help that theses Pontiac steering wheels are not actually round, more of an oval. I finally got one to look good, multiple touch ups and sanding. Put it on my car and realized Pontiac was right, I needed finger groves! So tore it all back down and started again. If I'm not happy this time I'm painting it black and calling it DONE!

Looks good to me... congrats you have way more patience than me.

Its done, finally finished the steering wheel guys!

Edited October 10, 2025Oct 10 by Wrongway

omg!!!! !!!!!!

wrongway !!! it looks amazing !!!!!!

can you make me two , i need one for the 63 wagon and replace my dumb attempt on the 64 ?

and i recon fitzy will want one !!!

Edited October 10, 2025Oct 10 by 64 kiwi boni