This thread is going to be about my third generation 1986 Trans Am, Black Beauty. I'm the original owner. I ordered it in July 1985, and I took delivery in November 1985, just before Thanksgiving. She has 42,000 original miles on it. For the past decade, she has sat in a friend's pole barn. It has not run or been started in most of that time until about 1.5 years ago we started it for the first time. This past fall I finally got my own large garage to house all my cars under one single roof. 

I plan to take Black Beauty out on Hot Rod Power Tour this summer. So I need to get a lot of things done that have been neglected over the years.

Things that need immediate attention are:

1. Tires - three of the four are original to the car - from 1986! They are also flat stopped from sitting the last 10 years. So new rubber is a must for safety's sake

2. New fluids - coolant, oil, brake, power steering, tranny and diff oil all need to be changed

3. Vacuum / clear the interior

4. New shocks - again all originals

5. Brake inspection - replace what, if anything. needs replacing

6. Paint needs a thorough cut/buff/detailing - possible paint touch up

7. Replace the rear aero spoiler - stock original is made of rubber/vinyl and has multiple cracks

8. Tune-up - plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor

9. Inspect T-tops for air/water leaks

One of the first things that needs to be replaced on Black Beauty is the rear aero wing. For some silly reason, GM made these from a rubberised vinyl. Over time they are prone to spliting and cracking. Mine is no different. I purchased a fiberglass replacement from Hawk's Motorsports. It is suppose to be the best replacement on the market.

 

Here is the fiberglass lightly primered piece on top of the original.

I would be concerned about brake lines 1st.  Fuel lines and radiator.  Rad tends to plug up with antique anti freeze.  Check hoses as well.

Brakes were noisy when I first drove it back in November, from rust on the rotors. It quieted up after driving it awhile. I never took it on the expressway because of the tires.

Yeah, hoses will be replaced with the tune up and fluid changes. I agree that all rubber fuel lines need to replaced in time as well. 

Right now it isn't a question of needing to eat the elephant, it is question of which bites to chew first.

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Brakes were noisy when I first drove it back in November, from rust on the rotors. It quieted up after driving it awhile. I never took it on the expressway because of the tires.

Yeah, hoses will be replaced with the tune up and fluid changes. I agree that all rubber fuel lines need to replaced in time as well. 

Right now it isn't a question of needing to eat the elephant, it is question of which bites to chew first.

Remember what you told me back in 2019 about the 64 ? replace EVERY rubber hose !! 

Frosty, replace EVERY rubber hose 

Can't wait to see the progress Frosty. She's beautiful bro.

On 3/21/2022 at 10:37 AM, Frosty said:

This thread is going to be about my third generation 1986 Trans Am, Black Beauty. I'm the original owner. I ordered it in July 1985, and I took delivery in November 1985, just before Thanksgiving. She has 42,000 original miles on it. For the past decade, she has sat in a friend's pole barn. It has not run or been started in most of that time until about 1.5 years ago we started it for the first time. This past fall I finally got my own large garage to house all my cars under one single roof. 

I plan to take Black Beauty out on Hot Rod Power Tour this summer. So I need to get a lot of things done that have been neglected over the years.

Things that need immediate attention are:

1. Tires - three of the four are original to the car - from 1986! They are also flat stopped from sitting the last 10 years. So new rubber is a must for safety's sake

2. New fluids - coolant, oil, brake, power steering, tranny and diff oil all need to be changed

3. Vacuum / clear the interior

4. New shocks - again all originals

5. Brake inspection - replace what, if anything. needs replacing

6. Paint needs a thorough cut/buff/detailing - possible paint touch up

7. Replace the rear aero spoiler - stock original is made of rubber/vinyl and has multiple cracks

8. Tune-up - plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor

9. Inspect T-tops for air/water leaks

One of the first things that needs to be replaced on Black Beauty is the rear aero wing. For some silly reason, GM made these from a rubberised vinyl. Over time they are prone to spliting and cracking. Mine is no different. I purchased a fiberglass replacement from Hawk's Motorsports. It is suppose to be the best replacement on the market.

 

Here is the fiberglass lightly primered piece on top of the original.

I would presume the selection of material for the spoiler was do to weight. The shear size of that piece on the hatch back could cause issues with staying up? You may need to upgrade the lift struts, time will tell.

If there are any issues with the T top weatherstripping, as far as sealing or being dry, you might try what I do on the Indian’s sun roof. 
get some Westley’s Black Magic tire wet. Get a small 1/2” fine haired brush and paint the tire wet on the weatherstripping. Let it set till it dries, if it looks glossy good, if not do it again. When you are done with the Westley’s get some talcum power & a different 1/2” brush and apply the talc. This does two things, it helps to restore the subtleness to the rubber & allow a lubrication between the top and the rubber. My two cents worth.

Edited March 22, 20224 yr by Last Indian

Don't worry Kiwi, I plan to replace the rubber. It is a question of how soon I get it all done. I practice what I preach!

Last Indian, that is a very neat trick. I might give that a try, especially if it saves me from having to replace all the original weather stripping.

Edited March 22, 20224 yr by Frosty

Frosty, the process I described works well. Even on older weatherstripping that has cracking. It won’t get ride of the cracking, but it will reduce its appearance & and make it subtle again. The talc idea came out of using it on the weatherstripping of the Indians sunroof. Sunroofs are notorious for leaking as the weatherstripping ages. So I would use the Westley’s a couple times a year. The weatherstripping finally got so pliable it would basically stick to the sunroof frame & I would have to give the glass a little push to make it open. That’s when I dusted it with baby power & no more sticking, but nice pliable weatherstripping.

Glad to see you planning to get your TA back in the road after all these years. Think you will have it done in time for Charleston?

I hope so. I'm planning to take it out on Power Tour in June.

Like the TA...Had a very low mileage 86 that looked Identical to yours...Mine had the L69 (305 HO) engine with a 5 speed manual transmission...

It Was destroyed in a head on collision with a Sunbird back in 2004...Was very lucky everyone was pretty much able to walk away...

Okay boys - opinion time. I want to replace the shocks and front struts and brake rotors on Black Beauty in preparation for Power Tour. The original shocks are almost 40 years old AC Delcos. Nothing really wrong except they are old. On Power Tour I know we will have the opportunity to do an autocross course as well as both Nashville Motor Speedway and Atlantia Motor Speedway. 

I want to upgrade the shocks and struts to either KYB, Bilstien, Koni or QA1. I'm leaning towards KYB. I'm looking for a nice ride with some hi-performance characteristics. I want a smooth ride since this will always be a street cruiser.

Similarly I want to upgrade the front and back rotors for better stopping with the mild track time in mind. So I'd like to have some drilled and slotted rotors and mild upgraded pads that don't brake the bank since this is mostly a street car. So EBC, Powerstop, or anyone else?

Opinions and thoughts please......

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

Okay boys - opinion time. I want to replace the shocks and front struts and brake rotors on Black Beauty in preparation for Power Tour. The original shocks are almost 40 years old AC Delcos. Nothing really wrong except they are old. On Power Tour I know we will have the opportunity to do an autocross course as well as both Nashville Motor Speedway and Atlantia Motor Speedway. 

I want to upgrade the shocks and struts to either KYB, Bilstien, Koni or QA1. I'm leaning towards KYB. I'm looking for a nice ride with some hi-performance characteristics. I want a smooth ride since this will always be a street cruiser.

Similarly I want to upgrade the front and back rotors for better stopping with the mild track time in mind. So I'd like to have some drilled and slotted rotors and mild upgraded pads that don't brake the bank since this is mostly a street car. So EBC, Powerstop, or anyone else?

Opinions and thoughts please......

For the rotors/pads Powerstop is amazing.  Have heard they are not that much more expensive then stock and everybodys been very happy with them. I have planned on their upgrade when JustaG6 and my daily drivers need brakes next time.  Love em on the GTO,  very lil nasty brake dust.  Your choice on the struts.  

Frosty i have had a good run from kyb gas-o-just shocks👍 and i have them on 3 cars now, and they are doing a good job 👍

Edited April 8, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Thanks guys. I must admit I was leaning pretty hard towards the KYB based on everything I read in the first place but I wanted a second opinion. Powerstop was cheaper for sure, but I didn't want to be "cheap on brakes" for the sake of being cheap and then regret it later.

Okay I will probably place an order with Summit Racing either tonight or in the morning.

That's a nice car, Frosty. Good to see you're going to freshen it up and start using it again - it's too nice to keep stored away.  Make sure you actually crawl under the car and check everything carefully. Unused cars are like unoccupied houses - something weird happens when either isn't used and they seem to magically deteriorate for no apparent reason.

It's Saturday morning and I just ordered a front drilled and slotted rotor and brake pad kit from Powerstop for the front end (they don't seem to have a rear kit - I double checked their own website too). I also ordered a set of KYB shocks and struts for Black Beauty. $500 total. Cha-ching! Should be here by Thursday if not soon. Free shipping at least.

I'm thinking I'm going to take Black Beauty out to the Widetrackers meeting tonight. Run some more of the 10-year old gas out of it.

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

It's Saturday morning and I just ordered a front drilled and slotted rotor and brake pad kit from Powerstop for the front end (they don't seem to have a rear kit - I double checked their own website too). I also ordered a set of KYB shocks and struts for Black Beauty. $500 total. Cha-ching! Should be here by Thursday if not soon. Free shipping at least.

I'm thinking I'm going to take Black Beauty out to the Widetrackers meeting tonight. Run some more of the 10-year old gas out of it.

Ya never answered my question if you were going today...Oh well.

On 4/7/2022 at 9:50 AM, Frosty said:

Okay boys - opinion time. I want to replace the shocks and front struts and brake rotors on Black Beauty in preparation for Power Tour. The original shocks are almost 40 years old AC Delcos. Nothing really wrong except they are old. On Power Tour I know we will have the opportunity to do an autocross course as well as both Nashville Motor Speedway and Atlantia Motor Speedway. 

I want to upgrade the shocks and struts to either KYB, Bilstien, Koni or QA1. I'm leaning towards KYB. I'm looking for a nice ride with some hi-performance characteristics. I want a smooth ride since this will always be a street cruiser.

Similarly I want to upgrade the front and back rotors for better stopping with the mild track time in mind. So I'd like to have some drilled and slotted rotors and mild upgraded pads that don't brake the bank since this is mostly a street car. So EBC, Powerstop, or anyone else?

Opinions and thoughts please......

Sorry Frosty, day later & dollar short. KYB AGX adjustable struts & shocks are really nice because you can change them for the track & back for street if you want. Also a company called SP performance out of New York sell really nice crossdrilled rotors for your car front & rear.

Last Indian - I thought long and hard about the adjustable shocks. My QA1 adjustable shocks experience with Lucy was not a good one when I had them. I never noticed any difference on the road with them. Since Black Beauty is a street car that is going to have the rare opportunity of getting some track time, I’m settling the car up for street comfort.

Thanls for the tip on the SP rotors. I will look in Tito them.

4 hours ago, Frosty said:

Last Indian - I thought long and hard about the adjustable shocks. My QA1 adjustable shocks experience with Lucy was not a good one when I had them. I never noticed any difference on the road with them. Since Black Beauty is a street car that is going to have the rare opportunity of getting some track time, I’m settling the car up for street comfort.

Thanls for the tip on the SP rotors. I will look in Tito them.

yes good move setting Black Beauty up for street, its a whole different world setting up a car for track use!!

i remember taking my 2007 gto monaro on a track day after i had tricked the engine up and had it dynoed at 463hp@ the wheels, 781 ft lbs torgue 

2 laps in and i had no brakes left at all !!! i had spent all this money ( 14k ) on my engine and nothing on brakes or hoses and the brakes got so hot the hoses where expanding and major brake fade ! 

Super scary at the end of the front straight after going near 180 km and all i could see was the sand trap looking at me saying welcome come on in !!! 

i did make it around the corner by manually down shifting the trans but that was my day done there and then.

 i had my mate who owns a sign shop make me a 342 badge, and thats what she is in kilowatts 

Edited April 11, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

She's a beauty Kiwi!. I doubt with a 305 Tuned Port in Black Beauty that I will get any where near that speed. I will be happy to motor around 90 mph for a lap or two. I am not looking to do anything particularly stupid.

BTW - I took Black Beauty to the WIdetrackers meeting this past Saturday. Still no expressway driving with these old tires. All back roads, but the benefit is there are a few twisty turns along the way. So it was good to stretch it out a little! My goal was to help use up some of the 10-year-old gas that is still in the tank. I put gas stablizer in the gas when I first the car away 10 years ago. So it seems to be running as well as can be expected. I poured a bunch of Seafoam into the tank once I broke it out of storage too. I am now down under a 1/4 tank. I hope to run it out by the end of this month and I can load up with fresh gas.

36 minutes ago, Frosty said:

She's a beauty Kiwi!. I doubt with a 305 Tuned Port in Black Beauty that I will get any where near that speed. I will be happy to motor around 90 mph for a lap or two. I am not looking to do anything particularly stupid.

BTW - I took Black Beauty to the WIdetrackers meeting this past Saturday. Still no expressway driving with these old tires. All back roads, but the benefit is there are a few twisty turns along the way. So it was good to stretch it out a little! My goal was to help use up some of the 10-year-old gas that is still in the tank. I put gas stablizer in the gas when I first the car away 10 years ago. So it seems to be running as well as can be expected. I poured a bunch of Seafoam into the tank once I broke it out of storage too. I am now down under a 1/4 tank. I hope to run it out by the end of this month and I can load up with fresh gas.

Ya know Ol buddy, Sta-bil is only good for 3 years tops.  Some sort of dry gas to help soak up whats left in the bottom of the tank wouldn't be a bad idea.  Last....A clear fuel filter to keep an eye on what's coming out of the tank.

12 hours ago, Frosty said:

Last Indian - I thought long and hard about the adjustable shocks. My QA1 adjustable shocks experience with Lucy was not a good one when I had them. I never noticed any difference on the road with them. Since Black Beauty is a street car that is going to have the rare opportunity of getting some track time, I’m settling the car up for street comfort.

Thanls for the tip on the SP rotors. I will look in Tito them.

The SP rotors are nice units, or at least when I bought mine 18 years ago they were. Hopefully nothing has changed.

Just as an fyi, the KYB AGX adjustable are what I have on the Indian & they are nice and they definitely change valving when I adjust them. So much so that I keep them on the softest setting as my wife says the ride is to harsh even on 2, but she doesn’t complain about setting 1. So if I ever go out just to run the Indian through it’s paces I can bump it up to 2 or all the way to 4.

Also a little reminder on brake 101. The best stopping power comes from dissimilar materials, I.E. soft vs hard. So cast steel or iron rotors need soft pads. These will stop the best & last the longest, but hard braking for extended periods will result in both brake fade up to & including lose as Kiwi had. Adding metallic pads will help elevate that to some degree, but again it depends on how heated & for how long. Metallic pads tear up soft rotors, I.E. cast steel or iron. Metallic pads need hardened rotors, which for a car are hard to find, so than you must live with just replacing pads & rotors often. When pads become to heated for to long or it happens to many time the pad material becomes degraded & now the pads will fade even at normal use. Cross drilled rotors help with out gassing that’s a fact & that makes them very beneficial. The out gassing when combined with vented & cross drilled rotors aids in cooling the rotors in short term hard braking, but will have little effect in extended hard braking. Last as I indicated before Bosch ES16 brake fluid would be my recommendation for brake fluid.

Edited April 11, 20224 yr by Last Indian

1 hour ago, JUSTA6 said:

Ya know Ol buddy, Sta-bil is only good for 3 years tops.  Some sort of dry gas to help soak up whats left in the bottom of the tank wouldn't be a bad idea.  Last....A clear fuel filter to keep an eye on what's coming out of the tank.

I would like to put in a clear filter -  just not sure where to put it as it is a high pressure fuel rail system like the more modern LS and LT cars. Not saying it can't happen, but I've not thought it out completely.

13 minutes ago, Last Indian said:

The SP rotors are nice units, or at least when I bought mine 18 years ago they were. Hopefully nothing has changed.

Just as an fyi, the KYB AGX adjustable are what I have on the Indian & they are nice and they definitely change valving when I adjust them. So much so that I keep them on the softest setting as my wife says the ride is to harsh even on 2, but she doesn’t complain about setting 1. So if I ever go out just to run the Indian through it’s paces I can bump it up to 2 or all the way to 4.

Also a little reminder on brake 101. The best stopping power comes from dissimilar materials, I.E. soft vs hard. So cast steel or iron rotors need soft pads. These will stop the best & last the longest, but hard braking for extended periods will result in both brake fade up to & including lose as Kiwi had. Adding metallic pads will help elevate that to some degree, but again it depends on how heated & for how long. Metallic pads tear up soft rotors, I.E. cast steel or iron. Metallic pads need hardened rotors, which for a car are hard to find, so than you must live with just replacing pads & rotors often. When pads become to heated for to long or it happens to many time the pad material becomes degraded & now the pads will fade even at normal use. Cross drilled rotors help with out gassing that’s a fact & that makes them very beneficial. The out gassing when combined with vented & cross drilled rotors aids in cooling the rotors in short term hard braking, but will have little effect in extended hard braking. Last as I indicated before Bosch ES16 brake fluid would be my recommendation for brake fluid.

The Powerstop front rotors and pads are part of a kit, so the pads are matched with the rotors.

I appreciate the tip on the Bosch brake fluid. I assume I can get it at Autozone or O'Reillys or do I need to order it from Amazon?