No I have not called Joe. That's a good idea. Worse thing that can happen is I tick him off and make him jealous.

Shop has called me a lot the last several days in a row. They've found additional things wrong with Black Beauty in the process of tuning her up.

1. Idler arm is shot - found it while doing the front end alignment - replacing it

2. Front calipers would not fit the new Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and matching pads. Turns out the calipers won't retract completely, needs new calipers.

3. One brake flex line is shot - replacing all brake flex lines.

I am expecting to get the car back this week. I expect the bill to be a couple of grand at least. Tires alone are over $800.

Black Beauty came home on Wednesday. $3300 later for everything.....ouch! She definitely rides differently even the short distance from the repair shop to the garage.

Her first car cruise in over 10 years is tonight. Her first car show is on Sunday.

Money well spent frosty 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

EYE CANDY.......  She worked on the line inplant 8 here in Pontiac Mich.  Believe her name is Natilie??

Black Beauty - after her first bath, window washing inside and out, interior cleaning (except vacuuming since it started to rain at the car wash), sitting on new tires and a fresh tune up.

Black Beauty has two new problems - with less than a week to Power Tour and the Dust Off.

First problem is the power antenna. It won't shut off, going up or down. Turn the radio on or off, the motor won't stop running and the antenna doesn't fully retract. It appears I need a new power antenna - which is mounted in the passenger front fender. Since the antenna is partially up, I've pulled the passenger side dash cover off, and disconnected the power relay to the antenna. This way I can still use the radio and it will still get an antenna signal but it disables the power antenna motor. I can live with that for a week or two.

Next issue is the air conditioning. It isn't working. I have a recharge kit from the Roadmonster but the fittings on Black Beauty are for the old R-12 system, not the more modern R-134a fittings. No one sells an adaptor kit to adapt R-12 fittings to R-134a it would appear. Now before you say "Frosty you can't mix R-12 with R-134a", I know that. However, years ago the system leaked. The person who repairedit  appears to have used R-134a instead since the numbers 134 is written on the AC dryer in yellow ink. However, the R-12 fittings were never changed to 134 fittings in the process.

So now I have to scramble to get this thing to a shop to get it working again in 3 days. Driving through the deep south in mid-June in the heat and humidity is not a good idea. However, I will if I have to.

Edited June 7, 20223 yr by Frosty

The weather hasn't really been that Hot/Humid here yet...Have only had five or six days of 95° 95% humidity days So far this year..But it's coming.. You can count on that...Having the AC functioning will be a good thing Especially if ya'll from the Arctic northern Midwest...Aren't used to it..The AC systems on F- bodies (all generations)...Even when brand new will barely keep you from perspiring while driving on a really hot day here in the Southeast Especially with the R 134 refrigerant as it is not nearly as good as the Old School... R-12...was....

Be sure to drink plenty of water and stay hydrated...

Edited June 7, 20223 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Thanks for the advise. I had already planned on buying a case of water for the trip anyways. I"ve spent too much summer time in the Carolinas in the heat and humidity. I was preparing for it, I just wanted to have something  other than 2-60 AC.

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

buying a case of water for the trip anyway

better make it 5  

1 hour ago, Ringo64 said:

better make it 5  

Water, beer or ice? Or Yes (all of the above)?

Put a hunk of plywood behind your seat.  Line entire rear seat with plastic.  Couple cases beer on seat, Couple cases water on seat, maybe some Pepsi or Coke.  Fill to the windows with ice.  Guaranteed a pic in HOT ROD.  You can be somebody........DEW it.

Helluva an idea Justa......Frosty and Black Beauty become - wait for it!

 

SNOWMAN IS THE BANDIT.......SMOKEY AND THE BANDIT XXXVI

 

I can hear ol' Buford now, "I'm get DEW you sumbitch!"

"Daddy can I get some ice too please!" "Shut up junior!"

Edited June 8, 20223 yr by Frosty

Trial run this weekend....What kinda beer ya bringin?  Is Notallthere's gonna be there?

No beer allowed on county park grounds! Don't want to waste good beer being confiscated! I will have to put it in the car on the way to Memphis on Sunday instead.

I have not heard from notallthere as yet. Given the COVID testing requirements getting back into the Canuckistan, I have no idea if he is coming or not but I am doubting it. Have you heard from Indyman Joe, if he is coming?

Called...waitin on an answer when he gets a chance.

Dropped off Black Beauty this morning at the dealership to get the AC recharged.

While I was able to get BB to the Motor City Round Up this past weekend, I was scrambling Saturday morning.

Friday night I took BB to my local cruise. She was dripping coolant sitting there in the parking lot. I got her back to the garage and jacked her up to find it leaking from the lower radiator hose, next to the radiator. I also noted that the hose was about 1/2" away from the radiator at this point.

So I got up early Saturday morning. I figured if I couldn't fix it quickly, Plan B was to take the Roadmonster to the show. I got under the car, loosened the clamp and pushed the host snug against the radiator. I went to tighten the clamp but it would start to slip at a certain point. I'd start the car and it would still drip. I re-inspected the clamp. I figured it was slightly too large to tighten sufficiently. So off the parts store I went. Unbelievable, the first parts store had no hose clamps! They were out of stock! Second one did. I had to buy two for $4. No big.

I get back to the car. I compare the two clamps, yup, I'm right. The original clamp is larger and it has a limit on how far it will tighten. The new clamp is slightly smaller and will make a tighter fit. I put on BOTH clamps justa to be sure. I start the car with no drips.

I top of the radiator and I decide to take the car to the show. I place a piece of cardboard under the car while I am at the show to check for leaks. Cardboard is bone dry after the show! Yes! I went to the garage yesterday to finish painting the staircase. I checked the car again, still bone dry underneath. I think I've fixed it......for now.

I've been wrenching on BB this week. I am trying to solve my cold start, terrible idle / stall problem. I picked up a new IAC control valve, a new throttle position sensor and a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Getting access to this craps is a roll pain in the arse except for the TPS.

The ECT sensor is mounted on the lower intake manifold, under the throttle body assembly. I managed to get the terminal clip off the sensor after much swearing and cursing between the alternator and fan belts. I finally got a socket on the sensor and got it out. I lost a small amount of coolant in the process but I had a bucket and cardboard under the engine for this contingency. I compared the old sensor to the new one. The old sensor was longer and the connections were different. I was able to get the correct pigtail for the new sensor from my local O'Reillys. Still I really didn't want to splice into the old wiring just yet. I noticed how corroded the old sensor was, so I took my 90-degree air power rotoary disk tool and a scotch brite pad and polish it up and reinstalled it and reconnected it.

Last night I had to complete remove the throttle body itself in order to get access to the IAC valve. There was no way to get a socket on it. I ended up using an adjustable spanner wrench to get the old IAC valve off one 1/4 turn at a time. You can see the difference between the old and new IAC valves.

The IAC goes in that miserable little hole....grrrr....spanner wrench to put it back on too.

Throttle body bolted back down and throttle linkages reinstalled.

Next up is installed the new throttle position sensor and then calibrating both of them and reinstalling the air cleaner assemble and MAFS. Hopefully this will cure the cold start/low idle issue.

frosty, did you do new spark plugs and gap them ? 

I had the mechanics do that back in late May / early June with the mega tune-up. I gave them a set of NOS AC plugs for the car. Did I validate the gaps before I gave them to them - no! So that one is on me.

I finished putting the engine back together last night. I installed a new throttle position sensor (TPS) too. Once I got everything buttoned up, I went for a short test drive. I had to clean up the antifreeze from the ECT sensor removal. It spilled more than it caught (dang it!).

Here is the old TPS.

Here is the new one on the engine.

The car started up. I didn't have any stalling  or rough idle issues last night.  I checked for coolant leaks - none. I went for a short drive around the neighborhood. It drove fine. No snappy acceleration but rather a very slow smooth acceleration. I did get a SES light to come on so I will check / reset the code later this weekend.

I eventually want to work out the acceleration situation but I am taking baby steps and one thing at a time. If I've solved the stall/rough idle issue, that is a victory by itself. More test drives this weekend to be sure.

Now that the cars are put away for the winter I have time to do some wrenching. I started this weekend by removing the aero spoiler off of Black Beauty. I've already shown you guys the new replacement spoiler I have for it. I have a shop manual for my Bird. The manual says to remove the plastic covers under the trunk lid, unbolt the two bolts, lift up the spoiler and push it forward until the clips release. Sounds simple enough.....yeah right.

The driver side bolt was rusted through, it spun completely loose from the spoiler. The passenger side bolt snap off. Lifting the spoiler and pushing forward did release the clips and a shit ton of rust!

Notice how the bolt clip rust complete off the spoiler?

More rust and dust!

Passenger side rust debris

Now looking underneath the spoiler mounting areas.

Driver side first....

Passenger side.

You can clearly see the snapped bolt here.

Old spoiler off the car and on the ground - still shaking out another 1/2 - 3/4 pound of rust!

I just placed the new fiberglass spoiler in place - justa for looks. I still need to test fit it, primer, block sand and paint it body color.

 

I'm glad I removed the spoiler. Not only did it discolor the paint, the standing water rusted through part of the trunk lid. Now I will need to get that repainted with fresh metal. Damn.

Passenger side has two rust holes, It will need to be repaired.

Drive side metal is clear but discolored.

When replacing, seal the edges with silicone "adhesive".  I used Clear on the Sunbird rear spoiler I made, it's the only thing holding the spoiler sides to the car.  Sealed the rest of the edges all around to keep water out.  It still holds water (no way to drain) and yet another reason the car never gets wet.  Kinda hard to see, but I'm talking about the thin tri angle sides and of course the perimeter of the spoiler.

 

In this case, the splits in the vinyl rubber allowed water to get to the metal frame underneath and let it rust and trap water, leading to the bolts snapping and rusting the trunk lid. I think things might have been worse if the car had not been garaged and out of the weather all these years.