On 12/5/2021 at 8:16 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

now thats a good trick mate !!!👍

Funny, TV was on in the lunch room today when I walked in and they where showing a episode of garage squad working on a 64 GTO and having the same issue not being able to get the tank filler pipe out for the same reason as mine.

Stopped by the auto parts store and got some fuel hose, bought the good stuff for fuel injection, two 3' Pieces $40, holy smokes.

Also got this cool kit with clamps, i don't like the hose clamps with holes in them so i decided to use the springy ones look like something the factory would use.

Been working on the heater box, had some pinholes at the bottom so JB weld to the rescue, to thin too weld and then coated the whole bottom with epoxy so hopefully it will be water resistant.

Have this sealing flange that goes on the inside by the side kick panel where the heater box connect to any ideas where to get a new seal for this? Also missing the strap that holds the heater box.

Heater core hold down, bought new ones but not the same, may have to make one, think the one's i got is for none ac car. The right two is the original one's.

1 hour ago, Andy H said:

Stopped by the auto parts store and got some fuel hose, bought the good stuff for fuel injection, two 3' Pieces $40, holy smokes.

Also got this cool kit with clamps, i don't like the hose clamps with holes in them so i decided to use the springy ones look like something the factory would use.

good call on the hose clamps mate, i never trust the basic "hose clamp" for fuel, thats why i go teflon with a-n fittings and compression system, isnt too much more money but wayyyyy better, AND last longer

1 hour ago, Andy H said:

Been working on the heater box, had some pinholes at the bottom so JB weld to the rescue, to thin too weld and then coated the whole bottom with epoxy so hopefully it will be water resistant.

Have this sealing flange that goes on the inside by the side kick panel where the heater box connect to any ideas where to get a new seal for this? Also missing the strap that holds the heater box.

Heater core hold down, bought new ones but not the same, may have to make one, think the one's i got is for none ac car. The right two is the original one's.

nice work mate, thinking outside the box works 10 time out of 10 .... these are old cars, there is NO factory fix !!

 and JustA6 loves jb weld !!! hahaha 

 Have not done a lot lately, the boss decided to pay off the solar panels we installed a year ago so the funding kind of dried a bit for now but it will get better.

Been working on the heater box ( no funding needed for that) repaired the heater core hold down and got the inside of the car unit painted and put together. The gasket kit i got from OPGI wasn't that great, no instructions, seals was a bit thin and i think i you have a non a/c car it would fit better.

Started to install the firewall insulation and figured out that it didn't fit very good on a A/C car, according to OPGI catalog it has " flawless craftsmanship" and it is for all 64s but not quite the case. Looked in the Ames catalog and they have the same $40 part but also a $170 version that do have different part # for ac and non ac car, $40 or $170 hmmm, think i will have to modify the one i have and make it work.  

 

Edited January 9, 20224 yr by Andy H

nice work Andy !!!

 i have a set of these for car cash flow.... especially designed for wearing while asking the boss for funds!!!

 

 

Edited January 9, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

5 hours ago, Andy H said:

Been working on the heater box ( no funding needed for that)

i like this Andy!! when i am hanging out for funding, i work on all the little stuff that cost nothing, but needs time!! cleaning, painting and there is hours and hours of that!! along with sheet metal work, which also mostly justA take up time with bugger all cost 

Got a little bit done today, got the heater fan housing painted and the brake lines by the master finished and the 10 psi and proportioning valve installed, got done just before it started to rain.

 

Had this Ridgid tool for years to make brake line flares and it works so good.

Edited January 16, 20224 yr by Andy H

1 hour ago, Andy H said:

Got a little bit done today, got the heater fan housing painted and the brake lines by the master finished and the 10 psi and proportioning valve installed, got done just before it started to rain.

 

Had this Ridgid tool for years to make brake line flares and it works so good.

oh thats A nice Ridgid... and i do like your expansion loops mate!! 

as we know the factory never did it but that body has to move around on the chassis, so you have to allow for movement between the two.

 good move with the proportioning valve mate 👍... it will be a set and forget valve. but they work good 👍

 you will make a good plumber mate  !!

Got the brakes bleed and of course they feel spongy, usually how it is when you have new brakes all the way around, got to put a few miles on and then we'll have to see.

Got some questions,is there supposed to be some kind of seal between the heater box and the defroster duct? AC manual show nothing and nothing in the parts catalogs.

According to my factory manual the heater hoses are supposed to go to the water pump and intake manifold at the front of the engine so i need to plug the holes in the head's and remove the fitting in one, does it matter if i use brass or steel plugs?

One more question, is there a way to know if the rocker arm stud's are pressed or treaded? Heads are #46 from a 69 428. If the studs are pressed I'm thinking about making some kind of spacer washer so the valves can be adjusted.

On 1/9/2022 at 1:24 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

nice work Andy !!!

 i have a set of these for car cash flow.... especially designed for wearing while asking the boss for funds!!!

 

 

It looks like an airconditioned bra.

Edited January 31, 20224 yr by Fitzy

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

It looks like an airconditioned bra.

i would like to see that "live"😁

2 hours ago, Fitzy said:

It looks like an airconditioned bra.

yeah for old knees!! 

On 1/31/2022 at 12:59 PM, Andy H said:

Got some questions,is there supposed to be some kind of seal between the heater box and the defroster duct? AC manual show nothing and nothing in the parts catalogs.

According to my factory manual the heater hoses are supposed to go to the water pump and intake manifold at the front of the engine so i need to plug the holes in the head's and remove the fitting in one, does it matter if i use brass or steel plugs?

One more question, is there a way to know if the rocker arm stud's are pressed or treaded? Heads are #46 from a 69 428. If the studs are pressed I'm thinking about making some kind of spacer washer so the valves can be adjusted.

i would use brass to plug them mate, i have know idea about the seal though🙄

if they are like chev i bet they are pressed in rockers studs , why would you need to have them adjustable ?

Pontiac used pressed in studs at the factory. If you are going to a high performance build, then you need to have them machined for a screw-in stud.

10 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

i would use brass to plug them mate, i have know idea about the seal though🙄

if they are like chev i bet they are pressed in rockers studs , why would you need to have them adjustable ?

You can simply run a hose from the intake to the water pump.   

4 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

You can simply run a hose from the intake to the water pump.   

yes Andy, justA has the simple fix, justA loop the heater out of the circuit 

 

i would use brass to plug them mate, i have know idea about the seal though🙄

if they are like chev i bet they are pressed in rockers studs , why would you need to have them adjustable ?

Block has been decked, after market cam and non stock heads so it's s pretty good chance it won't be right I'll have to see when I put it together, think it can be made adjustable with poly locks and a shim or washer under the nut if needed         brass plugs are probably better just after a quick search steel seams to be easier to find locally.

 

 

 

Edited February 1, 20224 yr by Andy H

 

Pontiac used pressed in studs at the factory. If you are going to a high performance build, then you need to have them machined for a screw-in stud.

The plan was to keep the current studs if they are pressed in should be ok for what I am doing but was hoping to make them somewhat adjustable.

 

yes Andy, justA has the simple fix, justA loop the heater out of the circuit 

Would probably work ok here in so cal🙂 in fact I'm thinking about installing some kind of heater valve that I can shut off in the summer.

Want to keep my stock air cleaner but it was for a 2 bbl so i found an old 4 bbl cheap one at Long Beach swap meet a couple of weeks ago and cut out part of the bottom and grafted it in to my stock one.

oh !!! that is so cool Andy!! well done mate!! i know where your coming from, with the stock look and big air intake 

 i am impressed

 bit of paint and job done.... another box ticked off too.

 i am sure these pontiac engine love to breath !!!

An ingenious solution - well done. I went the other way and broke down and paid the exorbitant ask for a chrome louvred one, but it looks so nice so it was worth it. I daresay it'll breathe better than the stock setup as well.

Sanded and polished the rims, painted the centers, I'm not a big fan of all polished torque thrusts.

nice bling!!!