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64 LeMans


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11 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Yes, your steering is at the front mines at the rear of the arms 

Ohh that's right, saw the steering box in your pictures, right under the exhaust manifold

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got the brake lines in the front bent up, may have to redo the rear brake one at the master when i get the 10psi check and Proportioning Valve but that's OK. got inspired by 64 kiwi boni for those loops by the master.

Almost time to put the wheels on and turn the car around to take the tank down and start working on the trunk floor.

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1 hour ago, Andy H said:

got the brake lines in the front bent up, may have to redo the rear brake one at the master when i get the 10psi check and Proportioning Valve but that's OK. got inspired by 64 kiwi boni for those loops by the master.

Almost time to put the wheels on and turn the car around to take the tank down and start working on the trunk floor.

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MATE ! you would make a great Plumber !!:cheers:

AND those loops help when the body moves around on the chassis 👍:driving:

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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That's a lot of great work Andy!

Did you ever get your emblem hole measurements?

Edited by Frosty
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34 minutes ago, Frosty said:

That's a lot of great work Andy!

Did you ever get your emblem hole measurements?

Frosty,  that wasn't me, i seem to recognize that from another Post maybe? 🙂 I wish I was that far along.

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  • 3 months later...

So eventually maybe i get to work on the car again, house renovations done for now and after i get one of the kids of to college in a couple of weeks it might be my turn.

Ordered trunk floor panels from summit, Sherman brand, about half the price from OPGI but we will have to see when they show up, any one have any experience with this brand?

Also made a trip down to OPGI and got a fuel tank sending unit and some tank strap insulators.

My original sending unit had a 5/16" hose fitting with a 1/4" return but this is apparently not available so i had to settle for one without a return, kinda like the idea of a return to keep the fuel a little bit cooler so what to do? drill a hole and install one or suck it up and run it without?

Also got the insulation for the inside of the firewall but of course i forgot to get the rear wheel cylinders, i will probably just order those from Rock Auto.

opgi parts 8-6-21.jpg

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7 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

I would braze a return line into your new sender unit Andy 👍

Probably a good idea, might try to remove the return from the old one.

Was kid of hoping that the tank was going to look ugly inside when i removed it so i could just buy a new one but not so.

Would have liked to upgrade to a tank with in tank electric pump but could not justify that since the tank was ok.

Tank had about a 1/4 left in it with 20year old gas, STINKY

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rock auto have the sender units Andy

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,1964,lemans,5.3l+326cid+v8,1350537,fuel+&+air,fuel+sending+unit,4436

dont think you really have to have 5/16th  3/8th would be big enough and they have the return line

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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5 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

rock auto have the sender units Andy

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/pontiac,1964,lemans,5.3l+326cid+v8,1350537,fuel+&+air,fuel+sending+unit,4436

dont think you really have to have 5/16th  3/8th would be big enough and they have the return line

So make an adapter from 5/16 to 3/8 ? That could be done. The ohm reading on the 64 is supposed to be 0-30 ohm according to OPGI all but one on rock auto are 0-90 or 95.  Sent a message to see what the one that doesn't have a spec is so we'll have to see if they get back to me.  So is the ohm reading supposed to be 0-30. On s 64 lemans?

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16 hours ago, Andy H said:

So eventually maybe i get to work on the car again, house renovations done for now and after i get one of the kids of to college in a couple of weeks it might be my turn.

Ordered trunk floor panels from summit, Sherman brand, about half the price from OPGI but we will have to see when they show up, any one have any experience with this brand?

Also made a trip down to OPGI and got a fuel tank sending unit and some tank strap insulators.

My original sending unit had a 5/16" hose fitting with a 1/4" return but this is apparently not available so i had to settle for one without a return, kinda like the idea of a return to keep the fuel a little bit cooler so what to do? drill a hole and install one or suck it up and run it without?

Also got the insulation for the inside of the firewall but of course i forgot to get the rear wheel cylinders, i will probably just order those from Rock Auto.

opgi parts 8-6-21.jpg

Andy what is the reason for the new fuel level sending unit in the first place? You are not getting any reading on your gas gage? If that's the case - can your transfer the working float/resister parts from the new unit to the old unit with the return line? I would also use the new fuel sock too.

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2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Andy what is the reason for the new fuel level sending unit in the first place? You are not getting any reading on your gas gage? If that's the case - can your transfer the working float/resister parts from the new unit to the old unit with the return line? I would also use the new fuel sock too.

The old unit when i checked with my ohm meter did not have a reading. To move the parts over is a great idea, i will check that out.

So from what I have found out 64 is supposed to have  a 0-30 ohm unit and i contacted the manufacturer of the one on Rock auto that did not say what ohm it was and their reply was 0-90 ohms.

I will se if Frosty s idea work first before i try to brace a return to the new unit. Definitely getting as New fuel sock🙂 

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So I  move the guts over to the old unit from the new one,it took a little doing but i got it on there but unfortunately it won't read right, checked it before  and it was 0-30 ohms but now installed on the old unit it reads 3-20 ohms only and i can see why the stops and mounting position is different between the two.

On to option no2, probably have to

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My experience has been that most AC-built factory gauges are suppose to work from 0-90 ohms. I guess I will have to research the 0-30 ohm range. If push comes to shove, an aftermarket OER replacement gauge most likely will be 0-90.

Let us know how idea #1 goes.

Our responses crossed...we must have posted within seconds of each other!

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Phone posted before I was done🙄😁.    Option no 2  probably have to buy another one i think Rock auto is cheaper.  So drill s hole and brace a return in, only problem will be the plastic for the wire connector so i don't melt it.IMG_20210809_183824079_HDR.thumb.jpg.eb9f8cbaeabfaa121710ea9f1a29c858.jpg

Frosty from what i have read 64 is the last year for 30 ohm and 65 and up is supposed to be 90 ohm but we will find out.

Since the car is not together it's a bit hard to test the gauge right now.

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Okay - that helps explain the 0-30 vs 0-90 mystery. All the years that I worked at AC, I knew 90 ohms was the standard.

So you have two options. Install a return line (your Rock Auto plan) or get a new replacement/rebuilt gauge that works from 0-90 ohms instead of 0-30.

I am specifically thinking of Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita.  https://redlinegaugeworks.com/  I suspect there may be others in the LA area too.

Not sure if they are an option for you distance wise or money wise. Food for thought.

 

Edited by Frosty
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25 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Okay - that helps explain the 0-30 vs 0-90 mystery. All the years that I worked at AC, I knew 90 ohms was the standard.

So you have two options. Install a return line (your Rock Auto plan) or get a new replacement/rebuilt gauge that works from 0-90 ohms instead of 0-30.

I am specifically thinking of Redline Gauge Works in Santa Clarita.  https://redlinegaugeworks.com/  I suspect there may be others in the LA area too.

Not sure if they are an option for you distance wise or money wise. Food for thought.

 

Not a bad idea, Santa Clarita is about an hour north from me but ups work's to, i might look in to that before i order a new one. Really wish I could justify buying a new tank with electric pump inside .

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So i went the cheap route, managed to put the new sending unit back together but since i removed the sensor wire stud (it was crimped) and could not be reused i had to take the stud from the old unit that had a plastic round nut to hold it so it was removable but i had to solder it to the metal strap on the new unit.

Found these 1/4" bulk head fittings on Amazon an installed one for a return, had to use RTV to seal it so my only concern is if it going to hold up or start leaking, i guess i will find out when i get that far.

IMG_20210814_2.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

ordered  panels for the trunk floor from summit racing but they kept extending the ETA again and again and when i called them they could not even say if they where going to get one one of the panels in at all so i ended going down to OPGI and had to pay twice as much but at least they had the panels.

Got some spot weld cutters and got started cutting the floor out,

All the braces underneath are OK  just have to decide how much to cut out and where to make the splices.

Hopefully i will get some more time this weekend,has also been really hot out in the sun on the driveway lately.

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I posted a picture of this before but no one seems to know what intake this is, have seen the car a couple of Saturdays down at the donut shop in HB.

The engine might be a 421, anybody recognize this intake manifold?

IMG_20210904_065314592.jpg

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Andy, if I'm not mistaken, that is an uber-rare Pontiac "bathtub" dual quad intake manifold. Pontiac made a very small handful of them just before GM's ban on racing came down in 1963. Since GM had OFFICIALLY gotten out of motorsports there was no chance these manifolds were ever go on a production engine so the development of these manifolds were stopped and literally shelved after that. These manifolds were initially developed for the 421.

If you are a POCI member and you regularly read Smoke Signals, contributor Dmitri Toth, has two of these manifolds. He tells the story of their development and how he obtained his since he worked at Pontiac as a young man, along with his father.

Edited by Frosty
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2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Andy, if I'm not mistaken, that is an uber-rare Pontiac "bathtub" dual quad intake manifold. Pontiac made a very small handful of them just before GM's ban on racing came down in 1963. Since GM had OFFICIALLY gotten out of motorsports there was no chance these manifolds were ever go on a production engine so the development of these manifolds were stopped and literally shelved after that. These manifolds were initially developed for the 421.

If you are a POCI member and you regularly read Smoke Signals, contributor Dmitri Toth, has two of these manifolds. He tells the story of their development and how he obtained his since he worked at Pontiac as a young man, along with his father.

I believe this is on a really nice 62 GP. 4 SPD and bucket seats, no wonder I could not find anything on this just thought it looked really cool, so much better then a normal tunnel ram. Thanks Frosty 😊here is the car

IMG_20210807_063243883.jpg

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These manifolds got into the hands of a lucky few racers, like Arnie "The Farmer" Beswick.

Just to spice things up even more. Pontiac made only16 421 Super Duty '62 Grand Prixes. Now that said, right now, only one documented GP is known to still exist. I doubt that this car is the same from the article below. That said, it is a very cool car!

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1962-pontiac-grand-prix-421-super-duty

 

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