15 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Oh boy, here come the headaches. I'm now at the tentative stage of getting the car to pass a Queensland Safety Inspection prior to it being registered for the road. As you all know the car has been essentially mechanically rebuilt entirely and it's now all the cruddy little things that are gonna hold me up - specifically electrical stuff. My car came with the 2 speed wiper/washer set up that was apparently an option back then. The original wiper switch disintegrated upon it's removal and finding another identical switch is harder than you might think. I managed to source a single speed switch and thought I'd make that work. Ba-bow! No matter what combo of wires I try, I either get a clicking sound, the washer function only or smoke coming from the wiper motor! Time to look harder for the correct switch. Surely, an Impala switch is the same? As I'm in the driver's footwell contorted, sweating & swearing I run my hand over the fuse box wires and they are HOT! FFS. i'm now thinking in order to avoid a fire, I gotta get serious and get a nice modern fuse box installed - one with modern blade fuses. They might as well get the horns working as well. It'll need a front end alignment, chuck the mags back on and see what fails when it goes over the pits.

I'd do the fuse box myself, but really don't want to start messing with that big bunch of wires that feed into it. This might be one for the professionals.

Is it rusted badly?  Changing the wiring is a last resort  NOT an upgrade.  Most you speak to, say they finally got it in and working, but the next guy to work on it has nightmares.  Yea you know, that 3 am thang...   You'll figure out the probs one at a time. patience weedhopper.

Happy new year mate 🍻🍻🍻🍻

Happy nude rear as notallthere would say!

Happy New Year yall 

7 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Is it rusted badly?  Changing the wiring is a last resort  NOT an upgrade.  Most you speak to, say they finally got it in and working, but the next guy to work on it has nightmares.  Yea you know, that 3 am thang...   You'll figure out the probs one at a time. patience weedhopper.

It was rusted quite thoroughly and I cleaned it up to the point where everything worked, but I read that as electrical wires age, they corrode internally and essentially break down thereby increasing resistance, and normally that's where the heat aspect kicks in. Old wires = resistance = heat.

I really don't want to be tooling around, looking cool and trying to pick up chicks whilst my feet are getting burnt by the small fire that has erupted just above the pedals! No matter how good looking I think I am, the plume of smoke coming from under the dash is not gonna help entice the girls into the car. 

Sssssmokin.'            It only works in the movies.

On a brighter note, I reversed the car up the driveway and then gave it a squirt on the way back down to check the speedo, and it works! My beautiful roof mounted 'starburst' courtesy lights now work and all the lifters have calmed down and she sounds great. Did I mention that I have a tiny coolant leak where the thermostat housing bolts to the intake? When I installed the thermostat, I noticed that it's outer periphery was just the tiniest bit bigger than the intake recess. In hindsight, I should have taken my time and removed some material from that recess to let it sit in nicely, but was too eager to get the engine back together. I am waiting for a new gasket to arrive so's I can do the job properly. Other than that - no oil leaks, no missing or hesitation and she feels eager to accelerate. Can't wait!!!

Edited January 1, 20224 yr by Fitzy
Forgot something

really don't want to be tooling around, looking cool and trying to pick up chicks whilst my feet are getting burnt by the small fire that has erupted just above the pedals! No matter how good looking I think I am, the plume of smoke coming from under the dash is not gonna help entice the girls into the car. 

Mate ... justA cruise with a bag of ice 👍👍👍😀

STOP PRESS: Because there's nobody else here, I decided to show off my interior lights to my poor long suffering missus, who rolled her eyes and reluctantly got off her easy chair to go through the motions of appeasing me. Then they didn't work. "That was underwhelming" was her kick in the guts response. I then wiggled the fuse box and voila, they came on. I'm putting in a new fuse box.

7 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

really don't want to be tooling around, looking cool and trying to pick up chicks whilst my feet are getting burnt by the small fire that has erupted just above the pedals! No matter how good looking I think I am, the plume of smoke coming from under the dash is not gonna help entice the girls into the car. 

Mate ... justA cruise with a bag of ice 👍👍👍😀

That might be okay in the Land of the Wrong White Crowd, but here in Australia, we fix things properly. Well...most of the time. Oh, and ice with electrics? You want me to set the car on fire completely? Unless they are pyromaniacs, nobody is gonna be impressed.

Hey Kiwi - I forgot to mention that I purchased a cheapie generic adjustable battery hold down from Jaycar (cheaper than Supercheap) and simply drilled a hole in the tray nearest the front of the car and drilled out the threaded hole that sits inboard. The first hole ended up being really shallow as there was sheetmetal under there, but no problem: just insert the hooked rod in there and gently prise up until the rod sits correctly. You need to slightly enlarge that inboard factory threaded hole but when you do, the other hook will slide in there. Because the top is adjustable, it's then easy to complete the installation. Battery held down.

53 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Hey Kiwi - I forgot to mention that I purchased a cheapie generic adjustable battery hold down from Jaycar (cheaper than Supercheap) and simply drilled a hole in the tray nearest the front of the car and drilled out the threaded hole that sits inboard. The first hole ended up being really shallow as there was sheetmetal under there, but no problem: just insert the hooked rod in there and gently prise up until the rod sits correctly. You need to slightly enlarge that inboard factory threaded hole but when you do, the other hook will slide in there. Because the top is adjustable, it's then easy to complete the installation. Battery held down.

Nice mate !!! It’s call the kis !!! Keep it simple 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

Fitzy do you have a picture of the battery clamp ?

Edited January 1, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

8 hours ago, Fitzy said:

It was rusted quite thoroughly and I cleaned it up to the point where everything worked, but I read that as electrical wires age, they corrode internally and essentially break down thereby increasing resistance, and normally that's where the heat aspect kicks in. Old wires = resistance = heat.

I really don't want to be tooling around, looking cool and trying to pick up chicks whilst my feet are getting burnt by the small fire that has erupted just above the pedals! No matter how good looking I think I am, the plume of smoke coming from under the dash is not gonna help entice the girls into the car. 

Sssssmokin.'            It only works in the movies.

On a brighter note, I reversed the car up the driveway and then gave it a squirt on the way back down to check the speedo, and it works! My beautiful roof mounted 'starburst' courtesy lights now work and all the lifters have calmed down and she sounds great. Did I mention that I have a tiny coolant leak where the thermostat housing bolts to the intake? When I installed the thermostat, I noticed that it's outer periphery was just the tiniest bit bigger than the intake recess. In hindsight, I should have taken my time and removed some material from that recess to let it sit in nicely, but was too eager to get the engine back together. I am waiting for a new gasket to arrive so's I can do the job properly. Other than that - no oil leaks, no missing or hesitation and she feels eager to accelerate. Can't wait!!!

Need to wait.  Sometimes ya get pinholes that seal themselves once you have the car to operating temp, and actually under load of driving conditions.   Sounds like you've done well so far.  Best to you N yours in the New Year!

8 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Nice mate !!! It’s call the kis !!! Keep it simple 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻

Fitzy do you have a picture of the battery clamp ?

Here it's KISS it....keep it simple stupid.

Kiwi - here you go. Half the price of Supercheap for exactly the same item.

Also, check out these nice clear wiring diagrams. These are the clearest I've found. Obviously, they are for my car but yours are included on the site.

thats a nice clamp !! i will jump on jaycars web site and see if our local shop has them... cheers..

 oh and that wiring web site is the same one i down loaded my diagram from!!! yes very clear and readable for old four eyes here!!!

 

Hay i note you found your wiper switch at Dave clee's pontiworld !!! well done mate, Daves a good bugger!!! ask him how he is doing!! he was cutting wood on a bench saw and it kick back on him and he ended up with internal bleeding of his guts and ended up in icu !!!

He has lots of nos pontiac parts!! heck he might even have the sender units Del needs for his oil and temp gauges .... i will go look... after jaycars web site

 

Edited January 2, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Another question for you: can you have a look at your engine and tell me how many wires feed to your temp sensor? Send us a pic if you would. Mine has only one, and the light only illuminates briefly as engine is cranking. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to light up along with the oil light, to show that they are both working, so I'm guessing there's a wire missing. Thanks.

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

Another question for you: can you have a look at your engine and tell me how many wires feed to your temp sensor? Send us a pic if you would. Mine has only one, and the light only illuminates briefly as engine is cranking. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to light up along with the oil light, to show that they are both working, so I'm guessing there's a wire missing. Thanks.

one moment please 

Here ya go mate 

light green and dark green wires and they come from the loom on the firewall by the coil 

This loom has the 2 wires for the temp sender and 2 wires for the alternator in it 

Hope this helps mate 👍👍👍👍

Edited January 2, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Thanks Kiwi. That's a totally different set up to mine. I see you have two wires going to a single contact on the sensor, even though there's another contact. Tell me, when you turn the ignition on, do both oil & temp lights illuminate, then when you start it, they both go out?

I fiddle faddled around trying to get the horns to work today. It seems all the bits are there but no cigar at the horn. Could be the ancient rusty relay, the horns themselves, or the miasma of copper, plungers, springs & doodads that enable you to honk the jerk in front of you no matter what position the wheel is in. I think I'm just gonna discreetly plumb in an aftermarket cheapie with a button to operate it somewhere it's mounting won't permanently disfigure the car's interior - it's only for the Safety Inspection.

On another note, as I was fiddling about, I noted that turning the ignition to on without starting the car and leaving it on will make those fuse box wires heat up. I am yet to test if they remain hot once the engine is running. Further inspection revealed that the only wires that appear to be heating up are all internal accessory feeds from the fuse box, which means it might be an easier rewire than I thought. 

Remember those words: "It might be an easier rewire than I thought." I want those as my epitaph when the car bursts into flames.

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

Thanks Kiwi. That's a totally different set up to mine. I see you have two wires going to a single contact on the sensor, even though there's another contact. Tell me, when you turn the ignition on, do both oil & temp lights illuminate, then when you start it, they both go out?

its monday here tomorrow mate and i have 3 customers to do emergency work for and when i am finished i will report back 

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

fiddle faddled around trying to get the horns to work today. It seems all the bits are there but no cigar at the horn. Could be the ancient rusty relay, the horns themselves, or the miasma of copper, plungers, springs & doodads that enable you to honk the jerk in front of you no matter what position the wheel is in. I think I'm just gonna discreetly plumb in an aftermarket cheapie with a button to operate it somewhere it's mounting won't permanently disfigure the car's interior - it's only for the Safety Inspection.

horn relay is that big black tin thing that the main battery feed lead heads to... is it clicking when you hit the horn ring???

Edited January 2, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

On another note, as I was fiddling about, I noted that turning the ignition to on without starting the car and leaving it on will make those fuse box wires heat up. I am yet to test if they remain hot once the engine is running. Further inspection revealed that the only wires that appear to be heating up are all internal accessory feeds from the fuse box, which means it might be an easier rewire than I thought. 

that was going to be my next question to you mate... what fuses are getting hot... they are the ones to go through and check.... heat = resistance.. thats where you look for defects, rust, metal surface condition , loose solder,

 

1 hour ago, Fitzy said:

hanks Kiwi. That's a totally different set up to mine. I see you have two wires going to a single contact on the sensor, even though there's another contact. Tell me, when you turn the ignition on, do both oil & temp lights illuminate, then when you start it, they both go out?

mate do you have a cold light that lights up when you fire the 65?

64 Bonneville's have a cold light and circuit to that temp switch that turns off once the engine is up to temp, then a second circuit with a red hot light when its over temp

Fitzy, got all my work done and jumped in the 64, turn the key to the on position, i have a cold light and oil pressure light, turn the key to start and the hot light momentary lights and disappears.hope that helps  have been painting with no success, and pulled the front off the timing cover to fix my oil leak ... i dont know how you live in this bloody heat!! another 36c day here and its justA too much for me !! give me andys soCal 5c any day!!!   

Edited January 3, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Thanks Kiwi. My GP doesn't have any cold or hot lights, just one orange 'temp' light. Never mind - I'll fiddle with it later on - back at work today.

Can anyone enlighten me as to what sits under the chrome horn bar to give it spring tension? All my horn bits seem to be in order (wire feed, plunger, contacts) but there must be some little springs that sit under the chrome bar to make it spring back after activation. The service manual doesn't tell me anything. Thanks in advance. 

On 1/6/2022 at 11:34 AM, Fitzy said:

Can anyone enlighten me as to what sits under the chrome horn bar to give it spring tension? All my horn bits seem to be in order (wire feed, plunger, contacts) but there must be some little springs that sit under the chrome bar to make it spring back after activation. The service manual doesn't tell me anything. Thanks in advance. 

shit mate ! i took these pictures of mine 2 days ago and for got to post them !!!

Edited January 8, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

i pulled my horn ring off, as i could not remember what was under there .... it was nearly 2 years ago that i restored that wheel!! 

all there is mate on my one is the contact ring and a button with a spring under it to maintain contact with the upper chrome section...if you know what i mean !!

that little button drops into a hole in the wheel itself.

 as far as horn buttons are concerned here in nz, its justA gotA be a button that you can reach, as you have said... so if its a no go on the ring justA gab a button and stick it in the lower dash.... your only ever going to use it to scare chicks on the side of the road 

 

 

Edited January 8, 20224 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Thanks mate. All my gear is there, but it's the horn bar spring action I'm now trying to fix - that is: when you press on the bar to activate the horn, what springs sit under there so that it springs back?

The dash button is obviously the easy solution.

15 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

Thanks mate. All my gear is there, but it's the horn bar spring action I'm now trying to fix - that is: when you press on the bar to activate the horn, what springs sit under there so that it springs back?

The dash button is obviously the easy solution.

thats it mate, all thats under my horn ring is that little button with a spring in it, there no other springs, and it works