mate !!! that is so cool !! 

Thanks bro, if everything works out, I'll post picks of the finished project.

I only just saw all this - amazing work. Those bloody steering wheels...as you know after weeks of mucking about with mine I gave up and got a Grant. Bolted straight on - done.

Can you jump on a plane and paint my GP? I read all the words you use but have no idea what any of it means. I briefly entertained the idea of painting my car myself, but then came to my senses and slapped myself about the face until I was dizzy. Painting should be done by professionals.

So...you comin' over?

That is sweet!  Nice job.  Never would have thought of that one.  

Fitzy if I could brother I sure would! Justa package her up and drop her in the mailbox. I'll ship her back when I'm done. 

Got the bearings and seals today. Had the old bearings pressed off and new ones pressed on. I did get the grease seals installed in the axel housing also. Plan on getting the axels installed tomorrow along with the new calipers and disks. I'm guessing there is no way of flushing out the rearend or is there a need to? 

4 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Got the bearings and seals today. Had the old bearings pressed off and new ones pressed on. I did get the grease seals installed in the axel housing also. Plan on getting the axels installed tomorrow along with the new calipers and disks. I'm guessing there is no way of flushing out the rearend or is there a need to? 

if your doing axle bearings mate, i would certainy change the diff oil 

drop the drive shaft and pop the head out, give everything a good clean, and inspect it, stick it back together with fresh oil... one happy happy joy joy diff

 

opps sorry that a picture of me and Fitzy !

you can tell which ones fitzy,, he has no pants on ...or is it fitzy and wrongway ???? i really cant tell !

Edited May 27, 20233 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Anybody have a suggestion on rearend gear oil? The manual say's 5 3/4 pints of multi-purpose hypoid gear lube but doesn't mention a weight. I was thinking 75W90 but not sure. 

1 hour ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

 

 

opps sorry that a picture of me and Fitzy !

you can tell which ones fitzy,, he has no pants on ...or is it fitzy and wrongway ???? i really cant tell !

You can tell which one is Kiwi - the red eyed one who looks stoned. The dummy with his tongue hanging out, yep, looks just like me except Kiwi is about a foot taller than me.

2 hours ago, Fitzy said:

You can tell which one is Kiwi - the red eyed one who looks stoned. The dummy with his tongue hanging out, yep, looks just like me except Kiwi is about a foot taller than me.

True and your nose is blue 

2 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Anybody have a suggestion on rearend gear oil? The manual say's 5 3/4 pints of multi-purpose hypoid gear lube but doesn't mention a weight. I was thinking 75W90 but not sure. 

Yip 90 weight mate … here it’s called hypo90 

but that only for a non limited slip unit .. bet yours is standard like mine .. I justA used 90 🍻

2 minutes ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

True and your nose is blue 

Yip 90 weight mate … here it’s called hypo90 

but that only for a non limited slip unit .. bet yours is standard like mine .. I justA used 90 🍻

This is where last Indians experance  comes in 

6 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

but that only for a non limited slip unit .. bet yours is standard like mine .. I justA used 90 🍻

Yup, I only leave 1 black mark 

6 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

This is where last Indians experance  comes in 

Yes it would

Well, I got the rear disk's installed yesterday, raining again today so no fronts yet. I do love the way they look!

wow!!! that looks sooo clean mate what brand are you using ? and are you changing the master cylinder too ?

hay!, do i see a 2 inch spacer under your spring ? are you using factory springs ?? 

Edited May 28, 20233 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Thank you, and yes sir, new master and booster. I've already got new lines ran from when I redid the drum brake system. Most of the parts are Car Quest brand from the local parts store. I found a list a while back of compatible parts to use for a conversion and started ordering them and setting them a side over the winter.

Yes, that is a spacer bro, 3" if I remember correctly and yes factory springs for now. I put that in back before I found you guys and was trying to figure things out on my own. I want a nice "hotrod" stance. I couldn't find info on the size spring I would need for the stance I wanted so I bought 2",3" and 4" blocks to try and see what I liked. I loved the way the car rode, so I didn't want to change the feel. Only drove it less then 20mi and the trans went out so that got pulled and rebuilt. After the brakes and paint is done hoping to actually be able to start putting miles on her. It's funny, I've had her about 5yrs and only put about 20mi on her. 

Well I got the front disk's installed today. I need to change the brake line fittings to match the fittings on the new rubber hose's still. Tomorrow depending on rain will be the new master and booster. Here's the pics and a proud papa pic of my 14yr old son. He normally helps out working and learning about the cars and bikes and whatever I'm wrenching on. So, while doing the driver's side rear last week he asked if he could do the passenger's side. Sure. So, he watched me then did the passenger's side by himself with me watching. Today was the same, watched me and he installed the passenger's side. He had 1 question about how the pads laid in caliper, but he did 100% of the front and rear passenger side. 

Nice Pontiac hat....  Where can we get one?

Wrongway … I see you have used the auto city brackets … and even the discs look like theirs… what calipers have you used .. that eBay deal is really good 

but I am wondering if I can do it cheaper …

The calipers are from a 1985 Cadillac El Dorado my parts guy ordered me. I believe they were CarQuest premium. The brake lines and most of the hardware are also whatever brand Advanced Auto stocks. The brackets and axel adaptor came from Toms Classics in white boxes with no writing so I'm not sure of the brand on those. The rotors were sourced from eBay since Advanced Auto didn't stock drilled and slotted for anything on my list. Normally they would 3rd party the parts from someplace like Summit, but eBay was cheaper. According to the list I have it says we can source parts from:

1978-1983 Chevelle, Monte Carlo, El Camino, Malibu, Tempest, Cutlass, F-85, Pontiac Grand Prix, Le Mans, GTO, Grand Am or Bonneville.

1979-1985 El Dorado, Riviera and Toronado

1980-1985 Seville with emergency brake on the caliper.

My parts guy is a personal friend of mine so it's not abnormal for us to hang out and have a drink. I give him a list of parts, he orders what he can, and we find the rest of the parts thru other vendors like Summit, Jeg's, Speedway Motors and even eBay.

Hope that helps.

great information mate

does toms classics have a web site, i cant find one ?

ah, research tells me he is one of the owners of auto city classics 

I don't know anything about a website bro. We chatted a couple times thru Ebay and exchanged phone numbers to simplify things. 

hay mate, any update on your brake project ?

Yes sir, I finished it up yesterday. Had a bit of a problem with the brake line going from the front bowl of the master cylinder to the distribution block. For some reason that flare justa kept leaking. I must have recut it 12 times, remade the line 3 different times then decided to change the fitting. It still leaked, recut it once more and it finally took. No problems or leaks from any of the other flares that had to be cut. Even got the brakes bled. I couldn't take it for a test drive yet since she's torn apart getting ready for paint. So today I sanded down the primer I put on right before winter. I have a little more body work to finish up before I can paint her. I'm hoping to have her in color by the end of next month. The wife's family will be here Sunday and they'll be here for a month so we'll see if I can get it done by then.

I find when I use a tube cutter on the steel tube it leaves a burr

so once I use the cutter 

I stick the end of the tube in the flaring clamp and lightly file the end square 

it helps when I do the first part of the flare 

Agree on removing the burr with the file. I like to go one step further and run the corner of the file on the INSIDE of the tube, Justa remove anything that might be left.  Congrat's on all you have accomplished so far!!!