1 hour ago, Last Indian said:

If I can help you step through it, you know idea wise, just ask! Kiwi, this is going to take some explaining. & it may be more effective with a drawing so if you can hold on a day maybe 2, I'll put something together. Tomorrow is completely gone for me. But that said you are on to it maximum amount of material you want to remove is .010 total maybe .015. We'll talk.

Happy to wait last Indian , the van isn’t going anywhere in a hurry ! And my new one is here next week 👍

53 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

Judging from the pic, it's the threaded sleeve that broke, it's already Hollow. When you drive in the EasyOut or bolt extractor, it is set to bite in reverse. No worries of it going down the rabbit hole, and should back right out. No mess, no debris. Biggest prob I've ever had using them (EasyOut) or extractor, is drilling the pilot hole without messing up the threads. Sounds like the correct size extractor would be too short. Weld a correct size bolt to the end to add extension (as needed) it would already have the head to drop a socket on. Only going from what I can see in the pic, have no idea what your motor looks like. No pressure knowing your gonna junk it, worth a shot and bonus points if it works!!!

Yes justA it is a sleeve , my concern about using an easy out is that it’s really frozen in there , so much as to snap that thread halfway up the plug ! And I was only using a little 3/8 ratchet !

What I fear is the easy out snapping , it’s like there was some kind of debri on the end of the plug thread and as I screwed it out its binding in the threads.

Edited September 25, 2025Sep 25 by 64 kiwi boni

Sorry have no idea what you have to work with. Access to the hole ect. Good luck mate.

1 hour ago, JUSTA6 said:

Sorry have no idea what you have to work with. Access to the hole ect. Good luck mate.

When I get a chance justA I’ll show you what I have room and access wise 👍

21 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Happy to wait last Indian , the van isn’t going anywhere in a hurry ! And my new one is here next week 👍

Yes justA it is a sleeve , my concern about using an easy out is that it’s really frozen in there , so much as to snap that thread halfway up the plug ! And I was only using a little 3/8 ratchet !

What I fear is the easy out snapping , it’s like there was some kind of debri on the end of the plug thread and as I screwed it out its binding in the threads.

Kiwi, do you have a machine tool supply shop near you? If so this will be your best bet to find what you need. There are several options. Steve's easy-out is a good option & there are several ways to get down to the hole with it, but I understand your concern as I have seen those situations turn ugly too! Your situation is a cumbersome one no doubt.

If you go the route I previously described the best path & the simplest would be a step drill! But I don't know if you know how to make one? Next would be pilot reamers or expandable reamers. The first type of reamer, if you can find them, has a removable pilot on the end of the reamer. You can make your own pilot or have a shop make it to fit the size of each subsequent bore size, in this way the pilot keeps the reamer centered.

Back to the step drill. A step drill has more than one diameter. In some cases they have sequential step diameters that cut. Much the same way a two stage drill is used in cabinet & furniture work to assemble solid structures. Do you have a good grinder? Are you good at sharpening a drill? I presume you have calipers? I need to hunt down some of mine & take a picture. 

By the way what size & pitch is the thread.

Edited September 26, 2025Sep 26 by Last Indian

Hi guys. Don't mean to highjack your thread but wouldn't it be easier and safer to just pull the head What you are trying to do has a good chance of ruining the head. Lets say that everything goes well and you get the stub drilled out. your last pass when you have drilled out everything out but the threads, at least 50% of the time the drill is going to snag at the bottom and screw it out into the cylinder sort of like a helicoil. I have been drilling out broken bolts for the better part of my life and I love it when I manage to get the pilot hole dead center because the last pass will usually grab the bolt or sleeve at the bottom and screw it out. I have even had it happen when the bolt has rusted over the years and broke off. I was on the last pass just before grabbing the tap on an intake manifold bolt on a 351 ford, they were famous for rusting off the corner bolts, and the drill grabbed and unscrewed the stub right out the bottom.

If that happens the head HAS to come off. But as many things as I have had to drill out I would never attempt to drill something like that out in a blind and limited work space. Just my two cents worth.

Good Luck

Jeez Kiwi - what rotten luck. I have never had a spark plug seize on the way out but it is always a thought whilst fiddling with plugs. It's hard to imagine what made it happen. Was it a quality brand name? I understand the workspace is extremely limited but removing the head sounds to me to be a great idea - otherwise lower the entire donk out through the bottom and do it then. You'll be most unlikely to get any sort of drill dead centre in order to prep for an easy out - especially with no room.

You've probably written the van off on tax 5 times over, so just move on...tightarse.

8 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Kiwi, do you have a machine tool supply shop near you? If so this will be your best bet to find what you need. There are several options. Steve's easy-out is a good option & there are several ways to get down to the hole with it, but I understand your concern as I have seen those situations turn ugly too! Your situation is a cumbersome one no doubt.

If you go the route I previously described the best path & the simplest would be a step drill! But I don't know if you know how to make one? Next would be pilot reamers or expandable reamers. The first type of reamer, if you can find them, has a removable pilot on the end of the reamer. You can make your own pilot or have a shop make it to fit the size of each subsequent bore size, in this way the pilot keeps the reamer centered.

Back to the step drill. A step drill has more than one diameter. In some cases they have sequential step diameters that cut. Much the same way a two stage drill is used in cabinet & furniture work to assemble solid structures. Do you have a good grinder? Are you good at sharpening a drill? I presume you have calipers? I need to hunt down some of mine & take a picture. 

By the way what size & pitch is the thread.

Yes last Indian

I have a really good mate who owns a machine tool shop . And I have a few stepped drills , space is the issue along with how far down it is to get too … the issue I have is making sure it stays centered . But as you say . A guide a line with step by step drilling will get it close to being able to be cleaned out with a tap .

5 hours ago, Old guy44 said:

Hi guys. Don't mean to highjack your thread but wouldn't it be easier and safer to just pull the head What you are trying to do has a good chance of ruining the head. Lets say that everything goes well and you get the stub drilled out. your last pass when you have drilled out everything out but the threads, at least 50% of the time the drill is going to snag at the bottom and screw it out into the cylinder sort of like a helicoil. I have been drilling out broken bolts for the better part of my life and I love it when I manage to get the pilot hole dead center because the last pass will usually grab the bolt or sleeve at the bottom and screw it out. I have even had it happen when the bolt has rusted over the years and broke off. I was on the last pass just before grabbing the tap on an intake manifold bolt on a 351 ford, they were famous for rusting off the corner bolts, and the drill grabbed and unscrewed the stub right out the bottom.

If that happens the head HAS to come off. But as many things as I have had to drill out I would never attempt to drill something like that out in a blind and limited work space. Just my two cents worth.

Good Luck

Dwight !!!!!! Hello my friend !!!! Sooooi long no chat !!!! How’s the 63 ????

Yes yes . I should pull the head . But that’s a way bigger job than trying an easy out or drilling tapping and … it’s justA crappy China built work van that’s being replaced !

What have you been up too ???

2 hours ago, Fitzy said:

Jeez Kiwi - what rotten luck. I have never had a spark plug seize on the way out but it is always a thought whilst fiddling with plugs. It's hard to imagine what made it happen. Was it a quality brand name? I understand the workspace is extremely limited but removing the head sounds to me to be a great idea - otherwise lower the entire donk out through the bottom and do it then. You'll be most unlikely to get any sort of drill dead centre in order to prep for an easy out - especially with no room.

You've probably written the van off on tax 5 times over, so just move on...tightarse.

Mate ! It was a factory ngk iridium plug fitted 96k ago

I replace them every 100kms , and yeah ! The van has paid for its self already … and it was over due to be replaced . Hence a new one is now bought and I will have it next week …

Tight arse !!! You bet ! Why waste a perfectly good all be it old van ! . If I can fix it I have a mate who wants it !

Yeah yeah

It would make a great flower garden feature for the boss n her flowers too !!!!

Fitzy ! Did you see frosty has 2 of his cars in the new calendar ?

How cool is that !!!

Edited September 26, 2025Sep 26 by 64 kiwi boni

You mean 2 of Frosty's fleet of crumbling dinosaurs managed to stagger outside to get their pictures taken and then lurched back into the Mahal smoking & overheating?

I didn't know that.

To put things in perspective, I spent yesterday under the missus' Mazda replacing all 3 engine mounts and lubing the rear brake caliper slide pins. The slide pins were easy...the engine mounts were also easy - it was getting all the crap out of the engine bay to get to them that was the headache. In the end beer fixed everything, as usual.

Kiwi, need some info. What is the thread size of the spark plug or at least the number of the plug? Second, can you measure the i.d. diameter of the tube that broke off using one of the other plugs. Finally can you see the top of the broken tube that's in the spark plug hole? Does it stick above the hole, below the hole or even with it? I have a thought that may be an easier fix!

5 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Kiwi, need some info. What is the thread size of the spark plug or at least the number of the plug? Second, can you measure the i.d. diameter of the tube that broke off using one of the other plugs. Finally can you see the top of the broken tube that's in the spark plug hole? Does it stick above the hole, below the hole or even with it? I have a thought that may be an easier fix!

last indian,

its a ngk ilzkar8g8 part number 95112 iridium and its m12 x 1.25mm 26.5mm long with a 14mm hex....

its long tiny plug !!! i measured the inside diameter at 7mm,

and it is located right in the bottom of the threaded head, i dont think it even got 2 turns up before it separated, i suspect debris on the end has stopped it undoing.

i was able to screw the plug back in, its firing and the motor hasnt thrown a miss fire code ! so its clearly in the bottom and close enough to the hook to throw a spark !!!

did i mention this is a vw engine ?

Edited September 27, 2025Sep 27 by 64 kiwi boni

On 9/26/2025 at 2:01 AM, 64 kiwi boni said:

Dwight !!!!!! Hello my friend !!!! Sooooi long no chat !!!! How’s the 63 ????

Yes yes . I should pull the head . But that’s a way bigger job than trying an easy out or drilling tapping and … it’s justA crappy China built work van that’s being replaced !

What have you been up too ???

"63 is doing fine, still my daily driver and the most reliable thing I have in my driveway.

Just my opinion, if it is a German engine the whole thing is a boat anchor. I am second generation straight out of southern Germany on both sides and I think that German auto engineers are nuts!!

As for what I have been up to I am going into my third year of an insane project. I am putting an 89 Bronco ii body on an 07 explorer chassis. My granddaughter has loved the Bronco ii since her pre teen days. I found one with low miles that has been sitting for years with a blown trans. I bought it replaced the trans and all the rubber, door seals, all brake parts sanded it down to bare metal, fixed a handful of door dings painted it and gave it to her. About a week later she comes up to me and says Papa I can't drive that car, it has no horsepower. OK granted it was a 2.9 v6 with California smog equipment. Soooo what can I put in that is pumping out a few more ponies? We have a 4.0 Cologne v6 straight out of Cologne Germany and a 4.0 SOHC with major German influence. We have already covered this issue. The trans in those was not one of Fords best efforts so not worth the effort of adapting another engine and California smog makes engine swaps a near impossibility. So in my demented mind the idea struck me of finding a wrecked explorer and putting the entire chassis and running gear under the Bronco. Now going on the third year but I needed to take time out after the first year for Covid, lung surgery, a few other incidental items they thought it necessary to throw me into the hospital for, prostate surgery and finally hernia surgery which I am currently in the process of recovering from. Hopefully I am through with all the Dr. fun and can finally get this thing running.

To give you a small idea of what has so far entailed I have gone through almost ten pounds of .035 structural welding wire modifying the chassis to get it to fit under the Bronco. It has lovingly come to be known as the Frankenbronco. But when I get done she will have a Bronco ii with a 4.6 three valve modular ford engine connected to the 6 speed auto trans and driving through a shift on the fly 4WD. with four wheel independent suspension. I told her that if this is not fast enough get a rea good job and buy a Ferrari. I am going out into my dungeon to work on the wiring.

With regards to your issue if you got the thing running call it a day. the last thing you want to do is work on a German engine. Been there done that and will NEVER go back

18 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

last indian,

its a ngk ilzkar8g8 part number 95112 iridium and its m12 x 1.25mm 26.5mm long with a 14mm hex....

its long tiny plug !!! i measured the inside diameter at 7mm,

and it is located right in the bottom of the threaded head, i dont think it even got 2 turns up before it separated, i suspect debris on the end has stopped it undoing.

i was able to screw the plug back in, its firing and the motor hasnt thrown a miss fire code ! so its clearly in the bottom and close enough to the hook to throw a spark !!!

did i mention this is a vw engine ?

Kiwi, Easy outs typically work on broken threaded parts that snap off & there is nothing to get a hold of, but are not frozen or galled. When they are frozen or galled using an easyout can increase the diametrical squeeze on the threads making it more difficult. So assuming yours is frozen or galled the easyout might only complicate matters.

So the 7mm inside diameter of the broken sleeve is a perfect size for threading a left hand 8mm x 1mm tap. There are a variety of tap wrenches that should allow you to get down to the hole with the tap. 

The 12mm thread has a .472 outside diameter. A 8mm x 1mm tap has a tap drill size of 7mm & a 8mm tap or bolt has a .315 outside diameter. By using a left hand tap, once threaded you would then install a threaded shaft with a shoulder. In this way it won't unthread as you try to remove the sleeve. Additionally before you try to remove the sleeve I would recommend that besides any penetrating oil, that you use a hammer on the threaded shaft to shock the sleeve. This often breaks any bond between the two frozen parts. 

You might see if your machinist friend can make you a shaft from a grade 8 bolt. It would have a shoulder diameter anywhere from .450 to .400 with a 8mm x 1mm left hand thread on the end. The shoulder will lockup on your now 8mm x 1mm threaded broken sleeve. Then the top portion would have a 12mm x 1.25mm thread for a double jam nut or preferably you could have a hex cut at the top for a socket.

7 hours ago, Old guy44 said:

"63 is doing fine, still my daily driver and the most reliable thing I have in my driveway.

Just my opinion, if it is a German engine the whole thing is a boat anchor. I am second generation straight out of southern Germany on both sides and I think that German auto engineers are nuts!!

As for what I have been up to I am going into my third year of an insane project. I am putting an 89 Bronco ii body on an 07 explorer chassis. My granddaughter has loved the Bronco ii since her pre teen days. I found one with low miles that has been sitting for years with a blown trans. I bought it replaced the trans and all the rubber, door seals, all brake parts sanded it down to bare metal, fixed a handful of door dings painted it and gave it to her. About a week later she comes up to me and says Papa I can't drive that car, it has no horsepower. OK granted it was a 2.9 v6 with California smog equipment. Soooo what can I put in that is pumping out a few more ponies? We have a 4.0 Cologne v6 straight out of Cologne Germany and a 4.0 SOHC with major German influence. We have already covered this issue. The trans in those was not one of Fords best efforts so not worth the effort of adapting another engine and California smog makes engine swaps a near impossibility. So in my demented mind the idea struck me of finding a wrecked explorer and putting the entire chassis and running gear under the Bronco. Now going on the third year but I needed to take time out after the first year for Covid, lung surgery, a few other incidental items they thought it necessary to throw me into the hospital for, prostate surgery and finally hernia surgery which I am currently in the process of recovering from. Hopefully I am through with all the Dr. fun and can finally get this thing running.

To give you a small idea of what has so far entailed I have gone through almost ten pounds of .035 structural welding wire modifying the chassis to get it to fit under the Bronco. It has lovingly come to be known as the Frankenbronco. But when I get done she will have a Bronco ii with a 4.6 three valve modular ford engine connected to the 6 speed auto trans and driving through a shift on the fly 4WD. with four wheel independent suspension. I told her that if this is not fast enough get a rea good job and buy a Ferrari. I am going out into my dungeon to work on the wiring.

With regards to your issue if you got the thing running call it a day. the last thing you want to do is work on a German engine. Been there done that and will NEVER go back

Ditto! Insane nuts! One look at a G8 front end which has a German engineered front suspension like the BMW's & other German RWD cars & that's just as stupid of a engineering design as I've ever seen!

4 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Kiwi, Easy outs typically work on broken threaded parts that snap off & there is nothing to get a hold of, but are not frozen or galled. When they are frozen or galled using an easyout can increase the diametrical squeeze on the threads making it more difficult. So assuming yours is frozen or galled the easyout might only complicate matters.

So the 7mm inside diameter of the broken sleeve is a perfect size for threading a left hand 8mm x 1mm tap. There are a variety of tap wrenches that should allow you to get down to the hole with the tap. 

The 12mm thread has a .472 outside diameter. A 8mm x 1mm tap has a tap drill size of 7mm & a 8mm tap or bolt has a .315 outside diameter. By using a left hand tap, once threaded you would then install a threaded shaft with a shoulder. In this way it won't unthread as you try to remove the sleeve. Additionally before you try to remove the sleeve I would recommend that besides any penetrating oil, that you use a hammer on the threaded shaft to shock the sleeve. This often breaks any bond between the two frozen parts. 

You might see if your machinist friend can make you a shaft from a grade 8 bolt. It would have a shoulder diameter anywhere from .450 to .400 with a 8mm x 1mm left hand thread on the end. The shoulder will lockup on your now 8mm x 1mm threaded broken sleeve. Then the top portion would have a 12mm x 1.25mm thread for a double jam nut or preferably you could have a hex cut at the top for a socket.

That is the best answer !!! instead of the easyout pushing outwards making the thread even tighter to get out, a thread inside will want to pull upwards !!! .

ok so if i thread a left hand 8mm x 1mm, the shouldered thread i use what grade steel do you think it should be made of ? or do i leave that up to my mate the machinist ?

Edited September 28, 2025Sep 28 by 64 kiwi boni

14 hours ago, Old guy44 said:

"63 is doing fine, still my daily driver and the most reliable thing I have in my driveway.

Just my opinion, if it is a German engine the whole thing is a boat anchor. I am second generation straight out of southern Germany on both sides and I think that German auto engineers are nuts!!

As for what I have been up to I am going into my third year of an insane project. I am putting an 89 Bronco ii body on an 07 explorer chassis. My granddaughter has loved the Bronco ii since her pre teen days. I found one with low miles that has been sitting for years with a blown trans. I bought it replaced the trans and all the rubber, door seals, all brake parts sanded it down to bare metal, fixed a handful of door dings painted it and gave it to her. About a week later she comes up to me and says Papa I can't drive that car, it has no horsepower. OK granted it was a 2.9 v6 with California smog equipment. Soooo what can I put in that is pumping out a few more ponies? We have a 4.0 Cologne v6 straight out of Cologne Germany and a 4.0 SOHC with major German influence. We have already covered this issue. The trans in those was not one of Fords best efforts so not worth the effort of adapting another engine and California smog makes engine swaps a near impossibility. So in my demented mind the idea struck me of finding a wrecked explorer and putting the entire chassis and running gear under the Bronco. Now going on the third year but I needed to take time out after the first year for Covid, lung surgery, a few other incidental items they thought it necessary to throw me into the hospital for, prostate surgery and finally hernia surgery which I am currently in the process of recovering from. Hopefully I am through with all the Dr. fun and can finally get this thing running.

To give you a small idea of what has so far entailed I have gone through almost ten pounds of .035 structural welding wire modifying the chassis to get it to fit under the Bronco. It has lovingly come to be known as the Frankenbronco. But when I get done she will have a Bronco ii with a 4.6 three valve modular ford engine connected to the 6 speed auto trans and driving through a shift on the fly 4WD. with four wheel independent suspension. I told her that if this is not fast enough get a rea good job and buy a Ferrari. I am going out into my dungeon to work on the wiring.

With regards to your issue if you got the thing running call it a day. the last thing you want to do is work on a German engine. Been there done that and will NEVER go back

Way cool Dwight !!

Now you know we love pictures around here!!! Care to share some of the Frankinford ?

Oh and I hear you about the vw engine !!! I am seriously thinking about doin nothing ! JustA moooooove it on !

I had a hernia repair done a few years ago … I had the best lamb shanks for dinner in that hospital !!!

Think I shared some pics on here ! Was back in 2019 from memory !

Love the “dr fun “ comment ! Isn’t getting old justA sooooo much fun !!!

Every day you wake up and think …. What’s next !!!!!

Edited September 28, 2025Sep 28 by 64 kiwi boni

When I get done with the bronco I will figure out how to get the pictures out of the phone and on to the computer. It has been a project from day one trying to fit all of the things out of a full size SUV into the small Bronco ii. Being within sight of the end of the tunnel I am about 95% certain that it will be a one of.

I am hoping that the Dr. fun is over.

19 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

That is the best answer !!! instead of the easyout pushing outwards making the thread even tighter to get out, a thread inside will want to pull upwards !!! .

ok so if i thread a left hand 8mm x 1mm, the shouldered thread i use what grade steel do you think it should be made of ? or do i leave that up to my mate the machinist ?

Kiwi, determine what overall length you need, including the amount of 8mm thread to go into the sleeve. Using a 12mm grade 8 bolt should work well for what you need. Your machinist mate can easily cut that material with carbide tooling. There are several ways this could be made. This is just one. You could simply use a bolt as is & just modify the bottom threaded portion of the bolt. In this case just turn the 12mm threads & shank down to about .400 & by a length you'll need to determine, but will include the length of the 8mm x 1mm thread you'll need as well. Then your friend will need to turn down the appropriate amount in length & diameter for the 8mm x 1mm threads. He could also just drill & tap the end of the bolt for an 8mm x 1mm left hand thread & install a grade 8 long Allen set screw.

Edited September 29, 2025Sep 29 by Last Indian

Kiwi,

My experience tells me that what has happened is the plugs were put in without anti seize and the plug in question has seized. That means that at some point the aluminum on the head (being a kraut engine my assumption is that it is aluminum) has mixed with the steel on the plug and you are dealing with a small weld of sorts. I had it happen on a 02 sensor on a VW exhaust manifold so I took an impact wrench put it on the sensor and hammered it out. It pulled every thread out of the bung. The new sensor just fell into the hole. fortunately it was in an accessible place so I just drilled it out and welded in a new bung.

My years of stuck plugs in aluminum heads would compel me to place a very large bet that this is what will happen if you do manage to get enough of a bite on the plug stub to move it. I would also be willing to bet that if you do get a left hand thread in the plug at the least you will just pull the threads at the worst the bolt will break and welcome to the world of broken parts in broken bolt removal.

I have removed seized plugs out of aluminum heads on many occasions but never on the engine. On many occasions it has resulted in needing to get a helicoil, time cert or some other means of restoring the threads.

You a few threads back stated that you screwed the old plug back in and it ran, no miss no problem. If the van is not worth repairing and it is running OK don't mess with it keep it around for short drives close enough to tow it home if necessary.

I hate to be the party pooper but EVERY time I have tried a shortcut on something like this it has proven to cost me a lot more time and money than if I had just bit the bullet and done it right. Good Luck!

5 hours ago, Old guy44 said:

Kiwi,

My experience tells me that what has happened is the plugs were put in without anti seize and the plug in question has seized. That means that at some point the aluminum on the head (being a kraut engine my assumption is that it is aluminum) has mixed with the steel on the plug and you are dealing with a small weld of sorts. I had it happen on a 02 sensor on a VW exhaust manifold so I took an impact wrench put it on the sensor and hammered it out. It pulled every thread out of the bung. The new sensor just fell into the hole. fortunately it was in an accessible place so I just drilled it out and welded in a new bung.

My years of stuck plugs in aluminum heads would compel me to place a very large bet that this is what will happen if you do manage to get enough of a bite on the plug stub to move it. I would also be willing to bet that if you do get a left hand thread in the plug at the least you will just pull the threads at the worst the bolt will break and welcome to the world of broken parts in broken bolt removal.

I have removed seized plugs out of aluminum heads on many occasions but never on the engine. On many occasions it has resulted in needing to get a helicoil, time cert or some other means of restoring the threads.

You a few threads back stated that you screwed the old plug back in and it ran, no miss no problem. If the van is not worth repairing and it is running OK don't mess with it keep it around for short drives close enough to tow it home if necessary.

I hate to be the party pooper but EVERY time I have tried a shortcut on something like this it has proven to cost me a lot more time and money than if I had just bit the bullet and done it right. Good Luck!

you know what Dwight ! i am justA going sell the thing like it is !

i have a appliance repair guy after it as a van for his son, and i have told him about the plug issue. i will see if he wants it. he has already offered to "help me" get the thread out, but i am justa going to say, you want it, you do it you own it. Last indian has given me very good ideas on how i can try to get it out, but my gut is saying dont doooooooo it !!!!!

once i screw it up, the thing will only run on 3 cylinders and right now its happy as running on all 4 !!!!

Edited September 30, 2025Sep 30 by 64 kiwi boni

Dwight, you know the stupid thing ! i have had 4 mitsubishi vans from brand new before this ldv thing, all had aluminum heads and i changed many a plug on them and never used anti seize !, so not sure why this one is different, the plug is certianly smaller !!! and the motor has already had 2 set of plugs in its 300000km life

idk

First let me say your gut is dead on LISTEN TO IT.

Second selling it as is is the best idea yet.

Third I bet you never screw a plug into an aluminum head without anti seize again.

Truth be told I do not know if there is anyone who can state with any certainty why a plug seizes. I have had plugs seize in cast iron heads. There is no rhyme nor reason to it it just happens, more in aluminum than in cast iron but I have seen it in both. I just never put in a plug, or o2 sensor, without anti seize. Personally I just never want to deal with another seized anything again.

19 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

you know what Dwight ! i am justA going sell the thing like it is !

i have a appliance repair guy after it as a van for his son, and i have told him about the plug issue. i will see if he wants it. he has already offered to "help me" get the thread out, but i am justa going to say, you want it, you do it you own it. Last indian has given me very good ideas on how i can try to get it out, but my gut is saying dont doooooooo it !!!!!

once i screw it up, the thing will only run on 3 cylinders and right now its happy as running on all 4 !!!!

Kiwi, as I said before, if you're going to dump the van, leave it alone. I completely agree with Dwight. You yah there are still other things you could try. Like get everything ready, tap the broken sleeve. Have the extraction bolt ready, fire the engine or use a touch & get the head around that plug very hot. Have the bolt in dry ice & install it as quick as you can & use the shock method I mentioned, but it's still all a crap shoot! At the end of the day, if you don't want it get rid of the headache!

FYI, the most common cause of seized parts on cars & especially threaded parts is galvanic action. The heads are aluminum. The plugs clearly have a zinc coating! Bad comdo! Those two on the galvanized chart do not do well together, but even more relevant is what is the composition of the aluminum? As all aluminum used in heads is not the same & changes over time for all kinds of reasons. Additionally the combustion process produces sulfuric acid which is pushed into the threads & exacerbates the galvanic action. To a lesser degree the same action can happen with cast iron heads.

Edited October 1, 2025Oct 1 by Last Indian

i fixed the spark plug issue !!!!!

justa cost 40k to fix

Edited October 3, 2025Oct 3 by 64 kiwi boni

Awesome mate! Wondering which is the biggest tool used here! Kiwi or his boss’ wallet!