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brandyv73's 1968 Firebird

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Old guy44

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Old guy44 last won the day on April 27 2017

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About Old guy44

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oak Park, Ca.
  • Interests
    Old cars

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    DWIGHT TESKE
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    1963
  • Car
    Pontiac catalina
  • Trim
    std
  • Engine
    389
  • Style
    Convertible
  • Color
    light blue

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  1. Haven't been around for a while, I have been waiting for my ecm and loom. I do not know if I can mention the name of the crooks but they are in Ovid Michigan. I sent them my ecm and $1100.00 mid March and am still waiting They will not answer a phone call or e mail. I now find myself needing another ecm and stand alone loom. Is there someone out there that is REPUTABLE that I can contact. I am attempting to install an L83 and six speed auto into my '63 Catalina convertible, it was supposed to be ready for summer but..................... Also is there an opinion on the variable displacement? This swap is primarily for fuel economy which is why I went for the direct Injection, if the specs don't lie it should be reasonably economical in stock trim. Should I get rid of all the variable displacement hardware while the engine is on the shop floor, eliminating a possible source of breakage, or keep it and the software that controls it? As stated I am looking for economy. The Indian runs great as it sits it just wants premium fuel at 12 MPG. Don't know about the rest of the country but premium in So. Cal is 4.25 to 4.50+. Before anyone asks I have gone to an HEI distributor, rebuilt and rejetted the original carb and have tried two different throttle body injections, a modified 90's vintage GM and a Holley sniper. It does run the best on the sniper but mileage is the same. I swear that you could put this thing on a flat bed and carry it across town and it would be sucking fuel on the trip. So I am back to the L83. I do not believe that the install will take more than a week if I can get the ecm and wiring so I know I can get it running. I would be grateful for any advice you can offer.
  2. I have an HEI on my '63 Catalina but at the same time I put on a later 100 amp alternator because I also installed an A/C and the stock 35 amp would not carry everything. The new alternator has an internal regulator and has worked flawlessly. The questions I would ask are: Where did you tie in your positive to the new distributor? Did it have points in the distributor, if so the coil was fed through a resistant circuit to keep the coil voltage under 9 volts. If you are tied in downstream of the resistor or resistant wire it could conceivably cause a problem. go back and tie into the ignition circuit at the ignition switch, make sure you are in the Ign wire and not the assessory circuit. If you are already wired in that way then I can think of three possibilities to solve the problem. One would be to install an alternator with the internal regulator, they are not that expensive on ebay. you connect all the factory wires and connect the external regulator wires together and toss the old regulator. second would be to try a diode or a relay in the feed wire to the distributor to isolate the distributor from the ign circuit. I can not figure out any reason why it should cause problems with the regulator but since you apparently did not do any other changes it pretty much has to be something in the HEI causing the problem. third the 70's and possibly 80's vintage Mopars used an external electronic regulator. they will work with a delco alternator. I used to use them on boats when the engine vibration would drive the point type regulator crazy. It has been so long since I have done that I can not tell you which of the two wires is the positive and which goes to the alternator but you can probably find that information on the internet somewhere. good luck
  3. OK back in town and I have put a few miles on it since replacing the pulley. I am still trying to work the gremlins out of the A/C but that is fodder for another forum. With regards to the engine temp the aftermarket temp gauge I temporarily installed under the dash seems to hold steady around 190 in 95+ degree ambient temp with the A/C on high constantly. It will climb up to 200 in stop and go freeway traffic where you are sucking in all the hot air created by the other 12 million cars on the Los Angeles freeway system but speeding up the fan seems to have corrected the overheat. This is one of the cars that does not have a temp gauge but has the hot and cold idiot lights, as memory serves the hot light comes on at 245 degrees so 200 is entirely acceptable. I do not remember if I mentioned it but to install the pulley I needed to do a little grinding on the water pump which i accomplished with a 4" hand grinder without removing the pump and the bolt holes need to be slotted a little bigger. The AMC pump has about a 1/4 inch smaller bolt circle. I hope that this information may help someone else with a similar problem as it represents a lot of hours finding the pulley. P.S. the A/C problem was a loose fitting on the inlet of the condenser. Forgot to tighten it!
  4. OK finally got the pulley from CVF racing. It is an AMCL2WP. Fits some model(s) of AMC and Jeep. It is almost a perfect backset and belt spacing. I just had to whack out a .060 spacer from some heavy gauge sheet metal in the garage and do a small amount of grinding on the water pump ribs but it seems to be working fine. The pulley is just over 6 inches in diameter and along with everything else done the engine temp has not seen the high side of 190. I was going to give it the ultimate test today going downtown in the gruesome LA traffic as the temps around here are back in triple digits but with every gremlin I have chased in the A/C system the one thing I have not had is a leak. Along with all the other things done I replaced the A/C condenser to hopefully bring the nozzle temp down. I drove it yesterday and noticed that while with the additional air movement the engine was doing great the A/C nozzle was climbing back up to 60 degrees. I parked it in the garage and when I got the time I went out to put the gauges on it to see what was going on. I screwed the gauges on and it was registering 10 pounds pressure. I looked around and there is oil residue around the outlet hose on the condenser. I disconnected the hose and the o ring looks fine so did I get a bad condenser? I pissed off the A/C gods about 8 months ago and they are not letting up. I am getting ready to leave town Wed. AM so will not have time to check it until I get back. The A/C problem is for another forum but with regards to the engine temp the smaller pulley seems to be the last piece of the puzzle.
  5. If yours has an AC compressor it probably means that it was a factory air, unless it was an aftermarket. But an original 4 core radiator likely confirms that it was a factory air which means it had a heavy duty cooling system. Mine was not and everything has been upgraded to handle the addition of AC. This car was one of Pontiac's built under the influence cars. 10.25 compression with a two barrel carb and single exhaust. As I said built under the influence. If I had it to do over again I would have changed the pistons when I freshened up the engine and dropped the CR but it was low mileage and only had .004 taper on the front cylinders and .002 on the rest. Sooooo i just put in rings and bearings, I did replace the cam as a third of the lobes were well on the way to flat. Valley Head Service put in hard seats to make the heads unleaded friendly in short the engine is fresh and should be running as efficiently as possible. I am convinced that the problem is that the water pump pulley is a FULL TWO INCHES BIGGER THAN THE CRANK PULLEY! My experience is that the 4 row aluminum radiators are great for cooling but are somewhat resistant to air flow. The engine is turning about 12-1400 rpm on the city streets, no tach but I have been listening to engines for over 60 years, and I am convinced that the fan is just not turning fast enough to provide adequate air flow. At idle with a 7 blade solid hub flex fan this thing will not move enough air to blow the hat off of your head. At 650 rpm idle the fan is probably only turning around 400 rpm. I spent time on the phone with CVF racing and we came up with a fan pulley that is slightly smaller than the crank pulley with almost the correct offset, the groove spacing is about 1/8 different than the stock pulley which means that the front belt groove is about .070 too far forward and the rear groove is about .070 too far back. I have seen cars come from the factory with more misalignment than that. It is for some model of AMC. When it comes I will put it on and will follow up with the results. Assuming that it works as planned I will list the pulley number.
  6. Fan shroud, yes. I just spent a week redoing all of the radiator mounts and fan shroud. I have a 4 row aluminum radiator and a 7 blade solid hub (no clutch) fan blade. the problem is that I have a 6" crank pulley and a 7 3/4 inch pump pulley on a car that is geared so high that it is barely off idle on city streets. When the temp hit triple digits it started overheating as soon as the car quit moving, upward of 350 degrees. by putting it into neutral and bringing up the engine speed it would start cooling off, so to me that says lets speed up the fan. Less than two miles at freeway speed, 60 plus, will bring the temp down from 350 to 180 with the AC on so the problem is not cooling system capacity but air and possibly coolant flow. So considering how underdriven the water pump is in my mind it is the easiest starting point and the most logical. I had a conversation with CFV racing and they have a great selection of pulleys I just need to find something with the correct dimentions and offset. I will post the results for anyone that might have the problem in the future.
  7. The problem I am trying to fix is an overheat at slow speed. I presently have an approximately 6 inch crank pulley and a 7 3/4 inch water pump pulley. That is a pretty drastic underdrive. With the addition of A/C the problem surfaced, and before you ask I upgraded to a 4 row aluminum radiator and a 7 blade flex fan no clutch. I do not know for sure but it is entirely possible and considering the manufacturing time probable that the pump and fan speed was increased for air conditioned cars. In 100 degree weather it poses a problem. When the engine speed is increased from idle to about 1200 the engine temp starts to drop and a couple of miles at 60+ mph will drop the engine temp from 230 to 180 with A/C on. A 6" pulley would only put the water pump at crank speed which would not put it in any danger of cavitation. Obviously the cooling system is entirely capable of handling the heat load so the logical starting point is to change the underdrive on the water pump. If I am not mistaken it is the same 8 bolt water pump used on later engines that do not have the underdrive, and in some cases probably a slight overdrive. The problem is that while there are pulley kits for Pontiacs out there they are all for post '65 engines and so far I have not found anyone that can tell me if the offset on the water pump pulley would be the same. I have e mailed several people without response. Therefore I am reaching out to the community to see if anyone has traveled this path already. Interestingly enough Franks Pontiac parts does not know, i sent them the measurements of the pulley I need and they do not have anything in their stack that is the right size. I tried walking the entire yard at Pic a part only to find out that even the "old" stuff on their lot has serpentine belts. I do not think that I saw more than a dozen cars with v belts on them and nothing with a pulley even close to what I need. The search continues.
  8. Without a lengthy dissertation of why, I need to speed up the fan on my '63 Catalina. The present pulley is 7 3/4 inches two groove. The offset on the pulley is 1 3/4 from the water pump flange to the center of the first groove and 2 1/4 to the center of the second groove. Has anyone done any legwork on this? I have checked with several aftermarket suppliers and no one I have talked with has an answer. Any help wold be greatly appreciated.
  9. Check with OPG. They supply the clips for my '63 Catalina but are presently back ordered.
  10. JUSTA6, Went to OPG typed in rocker molding clips and THERE THEY ARE. Thanks so much
  11. I am finally getting around to the body work, found a lot more rust than I anticipated covered by some of the worst body work I have ever seen. Try a thin piece of galvanized sheet metal pop riveted on over a 6 inch hole in the bottom of the front fender covered by about a quarter inch of bondo. I have found a source for most of the plastic trim clips, some are for other GM products which I have successfully modified to work. The ones I am having trouble with are the metal clips for the rocker moldings. The clips on the right side are in pretty bad shape and the ones on the left side are gone completely. The genius that did the gruesome body work just put a long hanger at the top molding line that the molding hooks on to and screwed the ends down to put pressure on the hanger to keep it from popping off. I have been periodically doing google searches for molding clips and I have found most, either from aftermarket manufacturers primarily AMK or on ebay. Thus far I have not been able to locate the rocker clips. If anyone knows of a source I would appreciate a heads up.
  12. Post script to anyone that may be looking for the final answer. That answer is to buy a Robbins top. It goes on and fits right. The staple lines are in the right place and when installed according to instruction it works right.
  13. Is there anyone out there that has a 61 to 64 convertible? I just purchased a top from the convertible top guys, NOT SOMEONE i WOULD RECOMMEND. The rear window curtain is cut a couple of inches shorter than the one that came off and they are telling me that if I attach it at the silver line it will work. now if you have 15 inches from point a to point b and 13 inches of material it will not stretch no matter how you attach it to the rear trim stick. Also the listing for the second top bow is not in the right place and they are telling me that some of those tops did not have any connection to the second top bow. I have had several convertibles of both domestic and foreign manufacture and have never had one that did not have some kind of attachment at the second top bow. Without that attachment there is no way to keep the top from ballooning at highway speeds. I need to know if there is anyone out there that has seen an early 60's vintage Pontiac without an attachment to the second top bow.
  14. Frosty, I had already found the Qsteer training, it is a basic overview of how the system works. As for the other stuff WOW!! All the time I have spent looking and you find this overnight, THANKS. I love this truck and with the Qsteer engaged it has a turning radius comparable to my SL500. I can get around tight parking lots better than most cars, pull a u turn in the street in front of my house without touching either curb and so on. The problem is that if you spin the steering wheel to fast the system drops out of 4 steer into 2 steer and the rear wheels which are supposed to center in case of system failure go to full lock right. Fortunately this only seems to happen at slow speeds. Backing out of the driveway into the street with the steering wheel near lock in one direction and spinning the wheel too fast in the other direction will set it off every time. Maneuvering too fast in a tight parking lot has also set it off. It appears that the rack is binding and not moving as freely as it should which is causing the system failure. I am hoping that I can fix whatever is wrong with the binding but the other problem is that the system does not center. There are supposed to be springs in the rack to center the wheels, maybe one of them is broken? Maybe both issues are related, who knows. Maybe there is something in all of those service bulletins that mentions it. I hated homework when I was in school and it still is not one of my favorite things but I guess I need to bite the bullet and start the research. Thanks again I think. Dwight
  15. Two lane, It has been a while, the family issue turned into a short career. I found the cure for the 2GC Rochester, turn it into a paperweight. Norm at affordable fuel injection somewhere in Michigan put together a conversion for my Indian based on a '94 chev half ton TBI. It starts great it runs better and smoother it gets better fuel economy whats not to like. Also I believe that you stated at one point that you have an extensive automotive library. Do you possibly have information on the 01 to 05 Chev/ GMC truck quadrasteer. I have one that I will need to be digging into and can not find any information on it. I love the maneuverability with the rear steer and will probably be driving this truck until someone offers it again or I can not find or make parts for it anymore. I have been checking on line and purchasing parts as I find them and I believe I have everything I will need. It is a motor driven dry rack and pinion and can not be that complicated but I would be more comfortable if I had information before digging into it. None of the on line repair manuals have anything, I have contacted them all. I can not find a factory repair manual for this thing and none of the other manuals cover the quadrasteer. The unit was built by Delphi but they have no connection with the General anymore and have no information so I am at a loss.
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