Old guy44

Plus Members
  • Content count

  • Avg. Content Per Day

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Old guy44 last won the day on April 27

Old guy44 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Old guy44

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
  • Gender
  • Year
  • Car
    Pontiac catalina
  1. I can sort of make them out but lowering the float level about 1/4 inch lower than the instructions called for seems to have made a tremendous difference. If I need them possibly I can move them to another program that will allow me to manipulate them.
  2. Two Lane, I did take the carb apart and took another look at it. I had forgotten that the idle circuit on that design carburetor two and four barrel was fed through metered tubes in the main jet wells. Short story is that they are much better metered than the earlier end bowl holleys. It is my understanding that Holey has fixed all of its gremlins in the past few years but I digress. When I pulled the top off of the carburetor the fuel level looked high and with a float in it it would be even higher. I lowered the float about a quarter inch from the level shown in the instructions that came with the carb kit and went out to run a few errands. When I started it up I let it warm up and found that I needed to lean out the idle screws, a good sign, and driving it with the top down you get a lot more of the exhaust smell than you get top up and the nasty rich exhaust smell seemed to be gone. Something as simple as the float level? Anything is possible. Re: cal gas. We have the winter and summer blend. More ethanol in the summer blend. We are still on winter blend. At any rate I will drive it for a while and see what happens. I might drop one jet size and see what happens, It has 64's in it right now. On another subject I just picked up a 4 row aluminum radiator, with A/C on a 110 degree summer day in our lovely L.A. stop and go traffic I do not think that there is such a thing as radiator overkill. Question is which coolant to run. When I had the Ford diesel I switched it from the green to the red coolant on the advice of a friend that used to be a heavy equipment mechanic with Caltrans. Something to do with the egr cooler. When I did the 100,000 mile service on my wife's Lexus I put it in that and what the h... did the Mercedes SL at the same time. The A/C I put in the car is out of a late 90's Crown Victoria which has an aluminum heater core that did have the predisposition for premature failure in the police cruisers. Ford came up with a variable restrictor in the inlet hose that helped until motor transport found a source of copper heater cores. I checked and the copper cores are no longer available, haven't checked with ford on the variable restrictor yet. So with all the aluminum which coolant is the least corrosive.
  3. Two lane, IT'S ALIVE! The car is running, I have been driving it for a couple of days and the camshaft seems to be exactly what I was looking for. The low end throttle response is so good that I had to jack up the trans throttle pressure linkage because the trans was shifting way too soon. This should result in improved fuel economy and it appears that it might have but the carb still seems to have problems. What slight amount of driving I did before I took it apart it was sucking fuel faster than I drank beer in my teen years. It is still sucking fuel but not nearly as bad. It has that nasty rich odor when running but not bad enough to be blowing black. I pulled the plugs for a read but I have not had to read a plug since the switch over to unleaded fuel and am not sure what to look for. With about 70 miles on the plugs they look like they just came out of the box. In all my years I have never tweaked any Rochester carb, my carb of choice was AFB for street and end bowl Holley for performance. I know that the end bowl Holleys were notorius for feeding too much fuel when they were in the transition stage coming off of idle before the throttle was open enough to be feeding off of the venturi cluster. Is it possible that the 2GC Rochester suffers the same problem because on the surface streets the throttle is never open enough to reach the venturi cluster. Back in the dark ages we used to plug and meter the transition passage on the Holleys to lean them out while in the transition stage and I would guess that it should be possible on the Rochester if I need to figure that out, or possibly there is another answer. I went through the carb and found no cracks or warpage anywhere everything looked good with a straight edge and the gaskets that came out all had good sealing marks. I plan to take it off and take it apart again this morning to see if I might have missed anything but I don't think so. I am not too familiar with anything east of the Rockies but do not think of Indiana as having extreme elevations so I would not think that the original jetting is incompatible with the 1100 ft elevation of Oak Park. Have you ever heard of anyone converting one of the late 80's early 90's GM throttle body injectors as they were two barrel and would fit on my two barrel manifold. The two problems that immediately come to mind would be a distributor that would fit in the Pontiac that has the internals to trigger the injector and a crank position sensor. Those post date my years of crawling around under hoods professionally so do not know if they ever used that system on a Pontiac. How is the race car. Did you get it on the track for the race or chuck it and go home. Bad omen for opening day, hope the rest of the season improves.
  4. 2.69 is about what a 3.5 would be with a 700 R4 in overdrive. Sounds like it might all work out for cruising mileage. It should be ok in town also, the trans is geared low enough in 1st gear that even as sour as the engine was running it had good throttle response at stoplights. Frankly better than I ever expected for a two barrel single exhaust engine. Sorry to hear about the car but rear is better than front. A whole lot less moving parts back there. Are you going to try an all nighter to get it back on the track for the race or have you just resigned yourself to see the race from the stands?
  5. OK crawled back under and took one of those tooth brush size wire brushes and cleaned the area. The stamping is pretty faint but looks like it could be a 2
  6. Did not see anything in that location but will take a closer look tomorrow, right now I am putting my beat up body to bed.
  7. OK just rolled under there again and can find no numbers stamped on the housing. I do not think that it has been changed as it still has the lock tabs on the u joint u bolt nuts and no one ever put those things back on. While it is still up in the air I might soak it with cleaner and pressure wash it in case the stamping is faint and I missed it.
  8. Two lane, OK so I spent the whole day under the rear of the Pontiac installing the sway bar and shocks. I was wrong, it doesn't connect to the frame and link down to the axle it attaches to the axle and links up to the frame. Once I started the installation I remembered the set up because you had to be cautious lifting one of those things with a weaver twin post lift so you didn't snag the sway bar with the rear cradle. Anyway I looked for a tag on the rear end and did not see one. It may be buried under the coating of gook that is so prevalent under this thing. If you have an idea of the approximate location I can scrape some of the garbage off and see if I can find it. Assuming that it is a tag that bolted on when the center section went in I am guessing that it should be on one of the studs. If not, where?
  9. Do I remember the turboglide!! The turboglide was a takeoff on the last of the Buick dynaflow's with either a five or seven element torque converter and a hydraulically controlled variable stator. A couple of us ran a chevy on the short track many years ago in hobby class. It had a 230 six cylinder, the engine that replaced the stove bolt in as I recall '64. It was a 7 main six which theoretically gave it the capability of higher rpm's. We got the wild hair one time to try a turboglide under the untested theory that if cammed right the variable stator could get us up into the strong part of the horsepower curve coming off of the turns with hopefully better acceleration. I sat down with Racer Brown and explained what we had in mind. He gave me one of his classic REALLY! looks, shrugged his shoulders and said that it probably was not a whole lot different than a boat spinning up the propeller, and ground us a cam. needless to say it was a grand experiment that failed. Even though we were cooling the trans with a large A/C condenser the amount of heat generated in the converter shortly took out the transmission. While it lasted it did show certain promise and it was one wierd sounding thing coming off the corner. It was fun while it lasted but it did not last long. So yes I have interesting memories of the turboglide. On another turboglide note I knew a guy who had a '57 chevy trailer queen show car. It was a two door wagon fuel injected and air conditioned with a turboglide. It had to be some kind of odd ball special order as I have never run into anyone that ever saw another fuel injected chev with A/C, and come to think of it I do not ever remember seeing another fuel injected car with an automatic trans. It was all factory because he knew the entire history of the car and spent years talking the original owner out of it just because of the novelty of it.
  10. Duration at .006 268 intake 270 exhaust, at .050 intake 208 exhaust 214. Lift 427 intake 445 exhaust and yes I have given up on ever putting regular fuel into it.. As for torque converter this has the roto hydro (slim jim) doesn't have a torque converter in the generally accepted sense. It has about an 8 or 9 inch fluid coupling inside the trans that works in first gear (stage one and two) when it shifts into second gear (third stage) it is in a lock up state as it is in third gear (fourth stage). That is the reason that I abandoned the idea of a trans change. I had forgotten about that trans and as it is in a direct drive cruising there is no reason to change it. This one is low enough mileage that it works like new, or if it has been overhauled whoever did it knew enough about the trans to put his impact wrench in the drawer and hand tighten everything. If you use an impact wrench to assemble one of those things you will distort the case and the trans probably will never work correct again no matter what you do. I will be getting under the rear shortly, maybe tomorrow or Saturday, and will give you the numbers however when I put the disc brake conversion on it I will need to go to 15 inch wheels which will change the final drive marginally slowing down the engine and maybe making a slight difference in cruising economy.
  11. OK Two lane and Frosty, I am back to the mechanics of the Catalina. I burned up the last three or so weeks getting the A/C into the car. I think that I mentioned I am adapting a unit out of a late 90's Crown Victoria. I got the unit in and it actually looks like it belongs there. I got the whole unit in as a fresh air only and then decided that I really needed the recirculating option so I spent about thirty hours engineering that duct. The problem is that it needed to fit in an irregular space approximately 6 1/2 inches by 9 1/2 inches. I scrapped the first attempt and rebuilt the second attempt once but I finally prevailed. From there I re-bushed the front end and replaced the front shocks. The shocks I took out would almost collapse under their own weight. No wonder the car felt like a boat on the water. Then I turned my attention to cleaning up under the hood and car while the engine is out. That job was a whole lot easier when I had access to a steam cleaner. I believe that this car came from a rural part of Indiana. Their was a coating of some kind of gook primarily on the underside of the inner fender panels. It looked like a cross between asphalt and that ceiling acoustic that was popular in the 70's and 80's. The only thing I could figure out was that it was from driving on oiled dirt roads. It was really not fun getting that stuff off. I finally went to Harbor Freight and bought a pneumatic gasket scraper. That and a couple of days of scraping and pressure washing the inner panels are clean. The up side is that it was a really good preservative as there is almost no rust on the fender panels. When I got down to the bottom of that gook I found the original paint in remarkably good shape. All that being behind me I went back to the engine. Two Lane, Larry at Valley Head did the heads and got me a camshaft from American custom cam. I will reserve judgement until I get it running but it is supposed to work for economy. The specs are intake opens 22 degrees BTDC and closes 66 degrees ABDC. The exhaust opens 67 degrees BBDC and closes 23 degrees ATDC. All this at .006 on the lifter. The interesting thing is that the exhaust seems to have a faster ramp than the intake. I did not take the time to actually graph the difference out but when I was degreeing in the cam I had go go a lot easier turning the crank on the exhaust because the lifter moved a lot quicker. I am having a hard time finding three groove pulleys for the crank and water pump. I need the third groove for the A/C compressor. Any ideas where to look? There is a Pontiac specific wrecking yard in so cal and an old car yard in Arizona but nothing so far. There is an add in craigs list, somebody parting out a 63. He is advertising A/C parts among other things. I have e mailed him twice and no response. Frosty, I found a rear sway bar that attaches to the frame behind the rear axle and links directly to the axle. It sounded like a lot better idea than the one that attaches to the trailing arms. I also looked into the Pertronics ignition module. There is some neat stuff out there that didn't exist the last time I built an engine. I have one on the way, I went ahead and ordered a hotter coil also. May not help but can't hurt. Two Lane, when the rear of the car goes up on jack stands I will get you the numbers off of the tag on the rear axle.
  12. I just re read the whole post and you said several entries ago that you have a 4 inch water pump pulley as opposed to the stock 6 1/2. Have you considered the possibility that you are spinning the pump too fast and you are indeed pushing the coolant through the radiator too fast. Can you put some kind of clamp on the upper hose to restrict it and slow down the coolant to see what happens. Another thought that just danced across my brain is what is your percentage of water to antifreeze. I had a desert racer friend years ago who found that his race truck cooled the best with 25% antifreeze and 75% water. But then as two lane observed 220 is not considered overheating. with 16 pounds pressure in the radiator your boiling point is somewhere around 260 depending on antifreeze percentage. The hot light on the 60's vintage cars that did not have a temp gauge, like my 63 Catalina, triggered around 245 to 250 and the ones with the pellet type cats had a 195 degree thermostat from the factory. Put a few gallons of water in the trunk and take it out and drive it, you may be chasing a problem that really does not exist.
  13. There is a Pontiac specific junk uh excuse me salvage yard abut two hours away from my house but what I have seen of his prices it probably is about the same price to go aftermarket with a complete kit. It is under $200.00 and considering what I am spending on all the other stuff I am doing what the heck. Looking at how the rear sway bar attaches and with my structural background having studied stress reactions to in this case torsional stress I think that there is probably a good reason that they suggest boxing. I used to be a certified structural welder and kept one of my machines which has a wire feed on it capable of handling 5/16 inch steel with innershield. Point being that It does concentrate the heat and moves fast so stitching about an inch at a time working from one end to the other I should not have any heat related problems. I did not however consider the idea of a jig, age related brain fade! At any rate as stated the rear bars will probably need to come off anyway to replace bushings if they look as bad as the front ones do so I would rather box them than wish I had. As for moonshine I used up my lifetime supply by the time I had reached my mid 20's and had to quit, so that will not be a problem. Yes some of us Californian's had stills also. Never really found anything that had quite the kick of a screwdriver made with 160 proof moonshine. Right now the front is up on jack stands and the rear is on the ground so there is limited room under it to get my aging frame under there to access the code but in the not too distant future I will get it to you. I have been thinking lately that this stuff was a lot easier when I had access to my dads repair shop with hoists, a fully equipped machine shop, hot tank, steam cleaner etc. and also a lot less miles on my body.
  14. Frosty, I am mostly interested in getting the thing nailed to the ground a little better. The mileage is so low that I believe everything to be factory. Looking at the front bushings they are not really worn out but the exposed rubber is rotting away. My guess is that the shocks all around are factory, yes 54 years old. The ride height will remain stock and for the most part the only thing that will see the rear seat will be the dogs. As stated the few miles I put on it it reminded me of being in a boat just floating along. Back when I did this for a living, when we were still washing dinosaur poop off the tires, the go to shock was Monroe but there are so many shocks out there now all making different claims it gets a bit confusing. If I am correct that the shocks are the originals ANYTHING will be an improvement but what is best? Frankly I have not changed a shock or strut in the last 30 or so years except for the front end rebuild on the 500SL basket I resurrected. For better or worse the newer iron seems to last a lot longer. I may just go with a set of Monroes all around and see how they work. In digging around I do believe that I saw on a website a rear sway bar for the full size cars but have no idea what web site it was. It did state that the rear arms needed to be boxed but having been a structural steel fabricator at one point in my sordid past boxing the rear arms will not be a problem. I did keep one of the multi function welders when I got rid of the plant. I did not give it much thought at the time but I will need to go back and see if I can find it as sway bars can make a dramatic difference in handling and stability. I have not been under the rear of the car but if the rear bushings are as bad as the front ones I will need to take the rear arms off and change those bushings which would be the opportune time to box them and install the sway bar. I have checked all the tie rod ends and they are surprisingly tight but we get back to the fact that in spite of the years they only have 43 thousand miles on them. And looking at all the grease on the tie rod ends and the ball joints the former owner had no problem keeping them greased. I will check the ball joints closely when I get the control arms off sometime this week and see how they are. The air conditioning has been eating up all my time trying to adapt a later unit to the car. I did find a complete 63 A/C unit for sale but it requires cutting a large section out of the firewall and welding in the same section from the A/C donor car. The condition of this car I am not willing to do that much cutting and welding on it. I have managed to work out everything to adapt a unit out of a 96 Crown Victoria mainly because it was in a friends garage and he wanted it out. Hopefully the Pontiac will not reject the transplant from a ford! The later R134 units are so much more efficient in their operation. Maybe when i get this thing back on the ground I will make a three page post on what I did and how it worked.
  15. I am working on a new to me 63 Catalina convertible. The engine is scattered all over the garage floor right now, the ravages of unleaded fuel, and while it is out I will be rebuilding the front end. The car only has 43,000 miles on it so I am assuming that pretty much everything on it is factory. I can tell you that the control arm bushings are, those 54 year old bushings are looking pretty tired. It has been many moons since I did any of this stuff and things have changed dramatically since I actually did this for a living. Right now my question is shock absorbers. I did drive the car for about 15 miles when it came in and it is typical of the era. floats along like a boat on the water. Stiffer shock absorbers are definitely in order but what is the best thing going these days.?
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!