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wtjosaas' 1970 Firebird

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Old guy44

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Old guy44 last won the day on April 27 2017

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About Old guy44

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oak Park, Ca.
  • Interests
    Old cars

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    DWIGHT TESKE
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    1963
  • Car
    Pontiac catalina
  • Trim
    std
  • Engine
    389
  • Style
    Convertible
  • Color
    light blue

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  1. If yours has an AC compressor it probably means that it was a factory air, unless it was an aftermarket. But an original 4 core radiator likely confirms that it was a factory air which means it had a heavy duty cooling system. Mine was not and everything has been upgraded to handle the addition of AC. This car was one of Pontiac's built under the influence cars. 10.25 compression with a two barrel carb and single exhaust. As I said built under the influence. If I had it to do over again I would have changed the pistons when I freshened up the engine and dropped the CR but it was low mileage and only had .004 taper on the front cylinders and .002 on the rest. Sooooo i just put in rings and bearings, I did replace the cam as a third of the lobes were well on the way to flat. Valley Head Service put in hard seats to make the heads unleaded friendly in short the engine is fresh and should be running as efficiently as possible. I am convinced that the problem is that the water pump pulley is a FULL TWO INCHES BIGGER THAN THE CRANK PULLEY! My experience is that the 4 row aluminum radiators are great for cooling but are somewhat resistant to air flow. The engine is turning about 12-1400 rpm on the city streets, no tach but I have been listening to engines for over 60 years, and I am convinced that the fan is just not turning fast enough to provide adequate air flow. At idle with a 7 blade solid hub flex fan this thing will not move enough air to blow the hat off of your head. At 650 rpm idle the fan is probably only turning around 400 rpm. I spent time on the phone with CVF racing and we came up with a fan pulley that is slightly smaller than the crank pulley with almost the correct offset, the groove spacing is about 1/8 different than the stock pulley which means that the front belt groove is about .070 too far forward and the rear groove is about .070 too far back. I have seen cars come from the factory with more misalignment than that. It is for some model of AMC. When it comes I will put it on and will follow up with the results. Assuming that it works as planned I will list the pulley number.
  2. Fan shroud, yes. I just spent a week redoing all of the radiator mounts and fan shroud. I have a 4 row aluminum radiator and a 7 blade solid hub (no clutch) fan blade. the problem is that I have a 6" crank pulley and a 7 3/4 inch pump pulley on a car that is geared so high that it is barely off idle on city streets. When the temp hit triple digits it started overheating as soon as the car quit moving, upward of 350 degrees. by putting it into neutral and bringing up the engine speed it would start cooling off, so to me that says lets speed up the fan. Less than two miles at freeway speed, 60 plus, will bring the temp down from 350 to 180 with the AC on so the problem is not cooling system capacity but air and possibly coolant flow. So considering how underdriven the water pump is in my mind it is the easiest starting point and the most logical. I had a conversation with CFV racing and they have a great selection of pulleys I just need to find something with the correct dimentions and offset. I will post the results for anyone that might have the problem in the future.
  3. The problem I am trying to fix is an overheat at slow speed. I presently have an approximately 6 inch crank pulley and a 7 3/4 inch water pump pulley. That is a pretty drastic underdrive. With the addition of A/C the problem surfaced, and before you ask I upgraded to a 4 row aluminum radiator and a 7 blade flex fan no clutch. I do not know for sure but it is entirely possible and considering the manufacturing time probable that the pump and fan speed was increased for air conditioned cars. In 100 degree weather it poses a problem. When the engine speed is increased from idle to about 1200 the engine temp starts to drop and a couple of miles at 60+ mph will drop the engine temp from 230 to 180 with A/C on. A 6" pulley would only put the water pump at crank speed which would not put it in any danger of cavitation. Obviously the cooling system is entirely capable of handling the heat load so the logical starting point is to change the underdrive on the water pump. If I am not mistaken it is the same 8 bolt water pump used on later engines that do not have the underdrive, and in some cases probably a slight overdrive. The problem is that while there are pulley kits for Pontiacs out there they are all for post '65 engines and so far I have not found anyone that can tell me if the offset on the water pump pulley would be the same. I have e mailed several people without response. Therefore I am reaching out to the community to see if anyone has traveled this path already. Interestingly enough Franks Pontiac parts does not know, i sent them the measurements of the pulley I need and they do not have anything in their stack that is the right size. I tried walking the entire yard at Pic a part only to find out that even the "old" stuff on their lot has serpentine belts. I do not think that I saw more than a dozen cars with v belts on them and nothing with a pulley even close to what I need. The search continues.
  4. Without a lengthy dissertation of why, I need to speed up the fan on my '63 Catalina. The present pulley is 7 3/4 inches two groove. The offset on the pulley is 1 3/4 from the water pump flange to the center of the first groove and 2 1/4 to the center of the second groove. Has anyone done any legwork on this? I have checked with several aftermarket suppliers and no one I have talked with has an answer. Any help wold be greatly appreciated.
  5. Check with OPG. They supply the clips for my '63 Catalina but are presently back ordered.
  6. JUSTA6, Went to OPG typed in rocker molding clips and THERE THEY ARE. Thanks so much
  7. I am finally getting around to the body work, found a lot more rust than I anticipated covered by some of the worst body work I have ever seen. Try a thin piece of galvanized sheet metal pop riveted on over a 6 inch hole in the bottom of the front fender covered by about a quarter inch of bondo. I have found a source for most of the plastic trim clips, some are for other GM products which I have successfully modified to work. The ones I am having trouble with are the metal clips for the rocker moldings. The clips on the right side are in pretty bad shape and the ones on the left side are gone completely. The genius that did the gruesome body work just put a long hanger at the top molding line that the molding hooks on to and screwed the ends down to put pressure on the hanger to keep it from popping off. I have been periodically doing google searches for molding clips and I have found most, either from aftermarket manufacturers primarily AMK or on ebay. Thus far I have not been able to locate the rocker clips. If anyone knows of a source I would appreciate a heads up.
  8. Post script to anyone that may be looking for the final answer. That answer is to buy a Robbins top. It goes on and fits right. The staple lines are in the right place and when installed according to instruction it works right.
  9. Is there anyone out there that has a 61 to 64 convertible? I just purchased a top from the convertible top guys, NOT SOMEONE i WOULD RECOMMEND. The rear window curtain is cut a couple of inches shorter than the one that came off and they are telling me that if I attach it at the silver line it will work. now if you have 15 inches from point a to point b and 13 inches of material it will not stretch no matter how you attach it to the rear trim stick. Also the listing for the second top bow is not in the right place and they are telling me that some of those tops did not have any connection to the second top bow. I have had several convertibles of both domestic and foreign manufacture and have never had one that did not have some kind of attachment at the second top bow. Without that attachment there is no way to keep the top from ballooning at highway speeds. I need to know if there is anyone out there that has seen an early 60's vintage Pontiac without an attachment to the second top bow.
  10. Frosty, I had already found the Qsteer training, it is a basic overview of how the system works. As for the other stuff WOW!! All the time I have spent looking and you find this overnight, THANKS. I love this truck and with the Qsteer engaged it has a turning radius comparable to my SL500. I can get around tight parking lots better than most cars, pull a u turn in the street in front of my house without touching either curb and so on. The problem is that if you spin the steering wheel to fast the system drops out of 4 steer into 2 steer and the rear wheels which are supposed to center in case of system failure go to full lock right. Fortunately this only seems to happen at slow speeds. Backing out of the driveway into the street with the steering wheel near lock in one direction and spinning the wheel too fast in the other direction will set it off every time. Maneuvering too fast in a tight parking lot has also set it off. It appears that the rack is binding and not moving as freely as it should which is causing the system failure. I am hoping that I can fix whatever is wrong with the binding but the other problem is that the system does not center. There are supposed to be springs in the rack to center the wheels, maybe one of them is broken? Maybe both issues are related, who knows. Maybe there is something in all of those service bulletins that mentions it. I hated homework when I was in school and it still is not one of my favorite things but I guess I need to bite the bullet and start the research. Thanks again I think. Dwight
  11. Two lane, It has been a while, the family issue turned into a short career. I found the cure for the 2GC Rochester, turn it into a paperweight. Norm at affordable fuel injection somewhere in Michigan put together a conversion for my Indian based on a '94 chev half ton TBI. It starts great it runs better and smoother it gets better fuel economy whats not to like. Also I believe that you stated at one point that you have an extensive automotive library. Do you possibly have information on the 01 to 05 Chev/ GMC truck quadrasteer. I have one that I will need to be digging into and can not find any information on it. I love the maneuverability with the rear steer and will probably be driving this truck until someone offers it again or I can not find or make parts for it anymore. I have been checking on line and purchasing parts as I find them and I believe I have everything I will need. It is a motor driven dry rack and pinion and can not be that complicated but I would be more comfortable if I had information before digging into it. None of the on line repair manuals have anything, I have contacted them all. I can not find a factory repair manual for this thing and none of the other manuals cover the quadrasteer. The unit was built by Delphi but they have no connection with the General anymore and have no information so I am at a loss.
  12. The pump is the one that was on the engine when it came, probably not the original but the original style. I don't know for sure that it is one of the lead plugs that is leaking, I am hoping that it is because that is a repairable problem as opposed to a crack which is not. If it is cracked I have no idea where I would find another one of those carbs or at what price, and finding a four barrel manifold for it is even more remote. I am aware of the thick foam gasket that was available for the Q jet, I used many of them but found that after a little time the gasket would shrink and the problem would return. I found that popping the plugs out turning them upside down and gluing them in was a more permanent repair. It has been so long that I do not remember what glue I used but something like JB weld would certainly work. I would file off the sharp edge of the plug so I could drive them in up side down without gouging the hole. I would glue the plug and hole and tap them in. Once in I would very carefully take a punch and hammer and tap on the plug to expand it, similar to an expandable freeze plug in an engine block. Using that method I never had one of those repairs fail. The only issue is that you must use extreme caution because if you expand them too much you will crack the carb and then you have an ugly paper weight. The 2GC is a completely different animal so when I get time, get past the family issues, I will take the carb off and apart again set the float bowl up on something fill it with gas and wait. I wonder if I could put some red food coloring in the gas to make it more readable. If it is one of the lead plugs I have many times used the right size lead shotgun pellets as a replacement plug. drill out the old one, a little glue one pellet and a small pin punch should do the trick. Just wondering if you have ever heard of Howell Engine Development in Michigan. They have a plug and play 80-90's vintage GM TBI for the engine which is another possibility. The only problem with that is the family problems which in addition to sucking the life out of me are sucking the life out of the bank account and right now there ain't any money to buy one. Hope that your issues are soon solved.
  13. OK, I think that I am getting closer to some answers. I mentioned in an earlier post that the plugs on the high runner are reading richer than the low runner. I was out of town for 11 days and when I got back I went to run a few errands. I tried to start the Pontiac and it would not light. I kept cranking and pumping the pedal and it finally lit. The carburetor was dry. There is a leak somewhere that I have not found. I have had this problem with more quadrajunks than I can count but never with a 2GC of any kind. Guess I will need to take it apart again put fuel in the float bowl and wait for the leak to appear. A 54 year old carb, I hope that it is just a loose lead plug in one of the passages. The garage has had a raw gas smell from day one after driving it and parking it in the garage with a warm engine, might have found a reason.
  14. I understand completely. I have been dealing with a family tragedy this week, no one died but that is the only thing I can think of that would be worse than the present situation. this family stuff will suck the life out of you faster than your 90% humidity. Just for giggles I did jack up one rear wheel and spin it while counting driveshaft revolutions and it does appear that 2.69 is actually correct. The tires however are only 25 inches tall which is why the engine sounds like it is spinning faster than it should with that ratio.
  15. Two lane, I am finally back to the Pontiac, life and leaking fuel tank issues. Several posts ago you said that the code 2 diff is a 2.69 ratio. Was that a misprint? finally got this thing on the road and running reliably, Other things had managed to find their way farther up on the to do list than the Pontiac. Plus it took almost 7 weeks to get a new gas tank and sending unit. The only people I found that supply them were out of stock and apparently it takes a long time to have them made. I need to jack up one rear wheel and mark wheel and driveshaft and spin the wheel to get an approximate gear ratio but the way the engine spins on the freeway I would bet the ratio is closer to 3.5 to 3.7. So I have run a couple of tanks of gas through this thing and it is running good but it still sucks fuel, about 11 or 12 mpg which doesn't make sense because it takes almost zero throttle to keep this thing rolling. My friends 67 Shelby 500 KR does better than that. The carb still has issues. I have had the thing off and apart 4 times and can see nothing. All the gaskets have a good print on them and I can see no cracks or other issues. There are strange things with it like coming home and parking the car on the driveway, which has about a 15 degree up angle, if you restart it within 15 to 20 minutes it is flooded and the float level is already 1/4 to 3/8 lower than spec. With about 400 miles on it I can get a plug read, the plugs on the high runner are brown but the plugs on the low runner are white. Another thing, the exhaust is so cold on this thing that it is not even burning the paint off of the exhaust ports and the heat riser was not opening, spring too cold. I finally just unhooked the spring and let it fall open and backed the choke spring off a couple of notches. The exhaust still smells fat but the plug read would say different. Maybe it is just the absence of catalytic converters. I found a plug and play GM tbi at Howell Engine Development in Michigan which uses the 80-90's vintage gm tbi that I can bolt to my two barrel manifold. Ever heard of them? The other option is to keep looking for a 4 barrel manifold and use the Holley tbi. Or? The car runs great but I would really like to squeeze a few more mpg out of it.
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