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Old guy44

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Old guy44 last won the day on April 27 2017

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  • Location
    Oak Park, Ca.
  • Interests
    Old cars

Forever Pontiac

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    Pontiac catalina
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  • Engine
    L83 with 6L80 trans
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    light blue

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  1. With the engine and trans change it goes, the Alden coil overs cured the boat in the water ride and now it stops. What more can you ask for. Maybe this thing will see me out. Just wish I had this combo when I was cruising Van Nuys Blvd in the 60's
  2. Update on brakes. I did not want to take an 80 mile round trip to burn in the brakes so as I was driving I did everything I could to heat up the brakes and finally got them "burned in". I am driving it harder since I know that I can stop and found myself in a panic stop condition. I reacted by jumping all over the brake pedal. No tire squeal no diving just excellent stopping power, just what I was looking for. I would imagine that I could put enough pressure on the pedal to lock up the tires but the fact that they are not inclined to lock is a good thing. The one thing I did not go into in the narrative was the booster and master cylinder. They both came with the "Disney animation" front disc system I previously installed. It is about an 8 or 9 inch double booster with a 1" master cylinder. With the cam that is in the engine it develops around 20" of vacuum at idle, probably more decelerating. I would like to be able to say that I engineered the hydraulics but the truth is that it was just dumb luck. Normal stopping requires more pedal pressure than any of my other rolling stock but I would not change a thing because it would take a lot more pedal pressure than my normal reaction under panic conditions to lock, and you can push harder and stop faster without wheel lock. Almost as good as antilock without all the hardware. This thing just keeps getting better.
  3. You got me to thinking. I used to have a friend with a talent for finding the unusual. He stopped by my dads shop one day with a 57 Pontiac but it was the Canadian version. It was sitting on a Chevy chassis and I will swear that it was slightly smaller than the US version. That would be the one to get at least you can get chassis and suspension parts for trhe tri year Chevys. I don't know what happened to it because shortly after he was on his way to a Texas penitentiary and I never saw him or the Pontiac again. Needless to say I used to run with a very questionable crowd. I survived the crowd because I realized early on that our penal system does not punish you for what you do, they punish you for what you get CAUGHT doing.
  4. The value of anything is what someone will pay.
  5. Just trying to find another home for the leftovers of my 63 Catalina. I have the rear brake cables left over from the Wilwood install. The foot vents that came out because I needed the cavities for other things. They have good rubber on the flaps and good chrome on the knobs. The 389 with a bad rod and the Roto Hydramatic / Slim Jim whatever you want to call it. The trans only has 45,000 original miles on it, it shifts as good as any I have driven and it is perfect for a rebuild as it has never been apart. If someone needs it you are welcome to it. This is the honor system guys I would like to give this to someone who needs it not someone that wants to pick it up for resale. I will ship the vents and cables if you are willing to pay for the shipping. Engine and trans local pick up only, I can help load it. I just need to clean up and hate to throw something away that someone else needs
  6. Kiwi, Yes the calipers all have bleed screws on both ends. as previously stated the easiest way to bleed them is to open both top bleeders and pump brake fluid in one until it runs clear out of the other one. Using clear plastic tubing makes it easy and you can collect the fluid coming out in a clean container and not on the shop floor. The way the caliper is made it needs to be vertical to get all the air out. A6, Darned if you are not right. I also see that I did not tighten the jam nut on the adjustment bolt. What can I say, the end of a long day. The duct tape is wrapped around the cable connector to keep it from rattling on the crossmember.
  7. OK guys I am back, finally got the park brake cables on and all is done. As you can see from the pictures I just connected the hard lines into the caliper. It just takes a 1/8 pipe to 1/4 inverted flare fitting. I would rather have used a short flexible line but could not find what I needed so figured it could wait. I needed to replace the studs as the originals were about two threads from full penetration. These dormans are the closest I could find to what I needed, just had to cut down the shoulder. Not having a lathe I used a drill press and a 5/8 hole saw. If you bend the teeth in so they are snug over the threaded part it makes a really clean cut. The cable connections are at the top of the backing plate and I secured them to the control arm to keep them out of harms way. The right cable is a tiny bit short and you can see from picture 1290 that I needed a slight extension to reach the original connector. I strung the cable as direct as I could keeping it out of the way of exhaust and driveshaft and was still a couple of inches short. But it works so what the h..... The brakes require a burning in which in the big city can be a challenge. Repeated stops from 65 to 25 not many places around here to accomplish that. There are places that I can but it is about an 80 mile round trip. They are coming along, the more I drive the better they get but the first block out of the garage cold I will hold the brake pedal down to warm them up. Reminds me of the old velvetouch shoes if any of you go that far back. If you are planning to drive hard I would recommend up grading to the 6 piston calipers. but for a daily driver it appears that once these completely run in they will be more than adequate. Now for the parts list: 140-11397 complete rear brake kit with parking brake 330-9371 park brake cable kit 120-13846 front caliper 150-8850K front pads (rear pads are in the rear kit) 160-15516 front rotor 220-8763 front brake hose 220-6956 fitting 220-13124 fitting I am into it for about 2200 but remember I have no shipping, they are only about 30 miles away from me. Hopefully I have adequately explained everything if not the floor is now open for questions.
  8. I have come to the conclusion that I am probably better off parting it out as opposed to trying to get the electronics in a salable condition. I have been going through the mechanics and mechanically it is in great shape. The problem is that the great running engine connected to a recently overhauled transmission are dragging around all those German electronics. I want all of you guys to swear that if I ever look cross-eyed at another German car that you will drag me into the middle of a parking lot and put me out of my misery.
  9. I finally made a cardboard template of the profile of the hubcap. When I compared it to the bump on the inside of the wheel I found that the "locking ring" on the inside of the hubcap was right on top of the bump in the wheel. I went in with an air cutting tool and reprofiled the bumps in the wheel so the locating ring on the hubcap was inside the high spot. They stay on so well now that it is difficult to get them off. I will post a picture if you like. Right now I am all consumed with the electronics on a god forsaken old mercedes POS. I have come to believe that the only good mercedes is one that has been through the crusher and is on its way to Japan to be turned into a Lexus
  10. I can tell him how to keep the baby moons on the front wheels. I lost at least 6 of them before IU figured it out
  11. OK guys got the front brakes on and discovered a minor modification On the caliper bracket you should move the 9/16 bolt hole about 1/4 inch further out. That is an additional 1/4 inch between the 9/16 hole and the closest caliper mounting hole. I needed to do a little grinding on the spindle support on the left spindle because the caliper would not bolt down. had to grind clearance so an additional 1/4 inch would be advisable. Also those calipers are a little bitchy to bleed. I spent at least an hour and a half trying to get a brake pedal on it last night. I thought about it all night and today I unbolted the caliper on the top and swung it out so it was completely vertical. I took one of the old style oil cans, the one with the pump handle on it cleaned it out and filled it with brake fluid. got some clear plastic hose that I could hook to the oil can and to the brake bleeder. I opened both top bleeders connected the oil can to one and a hose to the other that drained into a clean jar. I just kept pumping fluid through the caliper until all the bubbles disappeared. When the oil can got low I just poured the fluid from the jar back into the oil can. Took a couple of minutes of pumping for all the bubbles to disappear. closed the bleeders and did the same thing on the other side. Bolted the calipers back down and had a full solid brake pedal. That is what I plan to do when I install the rear kit. I still have not done the rears but with the fronts done my pedal pressure is less than half of what it used to be and I believe that with slightly more pressure I could lock up the fronts. Something that the cheapo kit I had that was based on the single piston GM floating caliper would never do. The two chassis modifications I have done that have made the most difference in the car were the Alden coilovers in the front and the Wilwood brakes. Of the two I have to put the Wilwoods in the number one slot because I think it is more important that I can stop better than the car in front of me rather than out handle him.
  12. Forgot something. I planned to knock out the studs and replace them but they had been swaged and were expanded. With out the benefit of a press they were not about to come out. So I bought a good 5/8 hole saw which has a 1/2 in ID and put it in the drill press. it took about 5 minutes to cut the shoulder down to size and another 15 minutes to run a die over them and thread them down to the mounting surface. Problem solved
  13. OK guys here is a template of the two brackets. I also showed the final mock up to make sure that everything fits and clears. It is ready to weld in the morning, this old body is tired. These brackets are not something you want on your show car but I guarantee that they will be the last thing to fail on the front brake system (depending on your welding ability) The 9/16 bolt that screws into the top of the spindle will need to be ground down for rotor clearance as will the nuts welded onto the caliper bracket. with two brackets you can fit and shim. The only thing I needed to shim was the caliper bracket which is held on with the 9 1/6 bolt. you need to shim it so the rotor sits in the middle of the caliper. The caliper is a solid mount and you only have about .080 to work with. With everything fit and tightened I plan to weld it bolted to the spindle and let it cool in the atmosphere to hopefully reduce warpage. Just for giggles I took picture of my Fred Flintstone working conditions. Out here you don't just run out and buy another garage. This is So CAL where three hole outhouses are in the low six figures. I would love to have a beer but I used up my lifetime supply of alcohol by my 25th birthday. Should have the front brakes on by this weekend so will be able to see how they work. I am going to poke around a couple of places and see if I can find a posi somewhere before doing the rear. wilwoodtemplate.pdf
  14. No reason in particular I just mounted it as High as I could to get it as close to the metal line as possible
  15. Now it begins. Spent all day roughing out the two brackets. Only had to throw away half of the first attempt. Turns out that two pieces is the way to go. If you look at 1264 I still need to do some detailing but once all the extra is cut off a piece of half inch solid square is just the right size for a filler. The caliper bracket was drilled and tapped and just to make sure I welded a grade 8 nut on so there is about a half inch of threads. With a grade 8 bolt it is not going anywhere. Once I get all the excess off and clean them up I will lay them on top of a piece of 1/4 square graph paper and it will be easy for someone to transfer the picture onto a clean piece of graph paper and duplicate the final product. 1266 is where the caliper bracket bolts onto the spindle. A 1/8 inch spacer centers the caliper perfectly. I am using the original hub out of the brake drum. I will need to replace the studs with something that does not have any shoulder sticking out of the mating face. I had to drive them back to get the rotor to mount properly. It seems that it will be a lot easier than I anticipated. Once I get these tailored it should not take more than a couple of hours to duplicate them, another hour or so to weld everything up and they should be on the car by this weekend. Barring more plumbing problems or who knows what the next disaster will be I should have them ready to install tomorrow. since the spindle fits either side the brackets are mirror image of one another.
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