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4 bucket 67's 1967 GTO

2022 August
of the Month

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1964 bonneville rebuild


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My limited experience with welding has been exclusively tig with a foot control. I'm definitely no expert but it definitely was a god send to have that foot control to manage heat and the bead.

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I really enjoyed tig welding in this patch, i had bugger all heat distortion and i could move the panel unlike when i used to mig my patches, which meant i can get it so flat that i am using less than a mil of filler.... and this patch is going to be under a big Chrome trim panel.... thing is... i know its there!!, so i am a little fussy just for my own thing.😋

i enjoy building them just as much as driving them :cheers:

patch complete.JPG

Tomorrow i am going to level out the imperfections with filler and i found 3 rattle cans of primer, so i will sand the whole fender and prime it.

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Tungsten inert gas welding (TIG) is definitely better when using the foot pedal for heat control...Although it can be very tedious especially when welding out of position like in tight awkward areas or overhead and you have to operate the pedal with your knee or elbow/toes..butt..ETC..and have to be able to do it both right and left handed (Been there Done all of that more than once)..The main thing is to have the tungsten needle sharp when welding stainless whereas you want a little ball on the end when doing aluminum...Also the cleaner the base metal is... The better and easier it is to weld especially when doing paper thin or cast aluminum...Personally... By far the hardest material to work with is cast iron...Just because of the prep work involved...Properly preheating and stress relieving is very very important and if not properly done the results will substandard and you will more than likely do more damage than good...

An expert fitter can make a mediocre welder look good..The better it all fits together before welding...The less filler metal you have to use (tig) the better the overall results will be and that's true for all welding processes MIG..TIG..and Stick...

The car is looking good and I respect the ingenuity and attention to detail...That is what makes for a truly top notch restoration....

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP
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On 3/31/2020 at 12:19 AM, 64 kiwi boni said:

gee two lane your pussy has it sorted!!! 

we could do with him here!, its autumn and we have bloody mice coming inside, every day!!😡

 a while back we had a rat, and i just couldn't catch him, so i laid bait.... 4 days later the wife came screaming out of the house yelling get that FORDing thing out of there!!!!

it had internally hemorrhaged and died in my daughters room, under a pillow on her bed!!! 🤢

 we have never told her!!! hahaha

so tell that pussy if he doesnt shape up... ship him to me and he can have a job !! 👍  

I've told him more once that he needs to adjust his attitude...Have even threatened to ship him off to military school...All to no avail...Wouldn't mind shipping him down under for a job...But he's lazy and unmotivated and he would wind up getting fired anyway and would be just be another mouth to feed...With no results to show for it....Other than getting fat....

Edited by TWO LANE BLACK TOP
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6 hours ago, TWO LANE BLACK TOP said:

An expert fitter can make a mediocre welder look good..The better it all fits together before welding...The less filler metal you have to use (tig) the better the overall results will be and that's true for all welding processes MIG..TIG..and Stick...

Your dead right Two lane ! i made the patch panel as close as possible to butt fit and i dame near didnt need filler rod... and Yes, when i can i am going to buy myself a foot pedal👍

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Spent the day sanding and priming and i still think its rough, it will need spray putty to get all the sand marks out, rattle cans just dont cut it for coverage.

 i need a couple of litres of Real primer!!

 but i am using what is on hand 😜spacer.png 

i did fishoilene the inner fender just to make sure it doesn't rust 👍

fender in primer.JPG

And got the drivers door smoothed out too, same thing, i need filler primer to get all the scratches out.

door smoothed.JPG

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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Nice job, I can't see any sand scratches.

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Great job! We love to see Pontiac’s being loved!

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4 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Nice job, I can't see any sand scratches.

Haha, phone cameras tells soooo many lies mate !! 

 a nice coat of high build primer and a wet sand will get rid of them... even the wife says it looks fantastic!!.... when are you fixing the front she goes.... i reply.... when i get my CHASSIS !!

:dancingpontiac:

4 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Great job! We love to see Pontiac’s being loved!

its just a bloody neat car Last Indian, it is my very first pontiac but its so gm, which makes it so basic to understand how every thing is put together.

 What gets me with this car is the hi po engines from factory !! and those big ali finned drum brakes... just sooo cool 😋:dancingpontiac:

oh and the steel .... so easy to work with!!! 

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15 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Haha, phone cameras tells soooo many lies mate !! 

 a nice coat of high build primer and a wet sand will get rid of them... even the wife says it looks fantastic!!.... when are you fixing the front she goes.... i reply.... when i get my CHASSIS !!

:dancingpontiac:

its just a bloody neat car Last Indian, it is my very first pontiac but its so gm, which makes it so basic to understand how every thing is put together.

 What gets me with this car is the hi po engines from factory !! and those big ali finned drum brakes... just sooo cool 😋:dancingpontiac:

oh and the steel .... so easy to work with!!! 

It’s why I have always loved GM products! Not in all cases, but they, better than most always seemed to extract the best from a particular division and transfer it across all their lines!

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spent a little time today just fixing small chips and  dents around the body and tomorrow i have the front panels to sand and prime....

managed to score myself 4 more rattle cans of primer:cheers: thanks to who you know NOT what you know😜

1671849881_frontpanels.thumb.JPG.126513c01b7c37d6ee205b3f75d64ab1.JPG

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I need some input from you guys about what to do with my steering wheel..... i could just buy an after market wheel and stick it on... that would be the easy way  out.😋

But i want to try and save this steering wheel, any one had and experience with rebuilding a wheel like this with clear sections ????

 any advise would be great .

 and i am not scared of trying to weld it up and making a mold etc... never done it but keen to learn:dancingpontiac:

or... does some one have one for sale ????

steering wheel.JPG

The other issue i had today is i have a spot of rust under the rear window trim and i want to remove this trim.... i would really!!! like some input as to how to remove this trim with out stuffing it up!!

 hope one of you has been there done that, and can give me some advise....😦😦

rear window lower trim.JPG

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Most OEM stainless window trim can be removed with what I call a J-hook tool. You can probably fab on yourself out of flat sheet metal or perhaps a mate of yours has one.

Here is what a commercial one looks like. Basically you slide it along to release the clips underneath the trim carefully.

image.png.7332b5245c11fe899c622567462b50a8.png

As for the steering wheel. I might be inclined to weld it up straight, use epoxy to repair all the gaps and then sand, primer, paint it a solid complimentary interior color and skip saving the clear acrylic for now. Try to get a replacement wheel from the states when the madness calms down and you have the cash. Like you, I prefer the OEM look versus an aftermarket wheel.

Edited by Frosty
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Check the backside of that heavy trim.  May be screwed on there with nuts, most of the rest would be removed with the hook tool. 

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10 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

I need some input from you guys about what to do with my steering wheel..... i could just buy an after market wheel and stick it on... that would be the easy way  out.😋

But i want to try and save this steering wheel, any one had and experience with rebuilding a wheel like this with clear sections ????

 any advise would be great .

 and i am not scared of trying to weld it up and making a mold etc... never done it but keen to learn:dancingpontiac:

or... does some one have one for sale ????

steering wheel.JPG

The other issue i had today is i have a spot of rust under the rear window trim and i want to remove this trim.... i would really!!! like some input as to how to remove this trim with out stuffing it up!!

 hope one of you has been there done that, and can give me some advise....😦😦

rear window lower trim.JPG

Ok! Bit of a long winded answer, sorry! Both Frosty & JustA are correct with a caveat! The window trim would use Frosty’ tool! Not his tool, but the one he showed.:rofl: The upper trim that wraps around the window? It depends on what kind of clips are used? That I’m not sure of. So you might be able to use the window trim tool, but  my guess is it could be what I think JustA I suggesting. You have to remove the inside panels and remove a nut. 

I actually think it’s another type of clip though. This type of clip has two upset lips on each end that snap into the inside groove of the trim on each side. Possibly with a nutted clip at each finished end. I would take a couple plastic body filler spreaders at the rear glass area and insert them, one on top of the other, under the trim. This should raise the trim up. If it doesn’t raise it enough to see under the trim use a broad blade putty knife between the two spreaders to raise it more to see if you can tell what type of clip. Once that is known removal will be much easier.

The steering wheel! Well obviously you have to pull it. I think Frosty’s on the right track!  Clearly you have to get rid of all the plastic on the ring. If you can pull the broken section back in place where the ring looks round & you can weld it that’s the simplest. But you more than likely will have to cut the plastic on the two arms back as well. Than getting a material that will adhere to the old existing plastic and fill the rim without cracking may be a challenge. I have a few thoughts as to how you might restore it as best you can without sending it to a restorer, but see what you find when you take it apart first.

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Found a couple things that may or maynot be a waste of your time.

 

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8 hours ago, Frosty said:

Most OEM stainless window trim can be removed with what I call a J-hook tool. You can probably fab on yourself out of flat sheet metal or perhaps a mate of yours has one.

Here is what a commercial one looks like. Basically you slide it along to release the clips underneath the trim carefully.

image.png.7332b5245c11fe899c622567462b50a8.png

As for the steering wheel. I might be inclined to weld it up straight, use epoxy to repair all the gaps and then sand, primer, paint it a solid complimentary interior color and skip saving the clear acrylic for now. Try to get a replacement wheel from the states when the madness calms down and you have the cash. Like you, I prefer the OEM look versus an aftermarket wheel.

Thanks Frosty... i will make one of these!!!

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6 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Ok! Bit of a long winded answer, sorry! Both Frosty & JustA are correct with a caveat! The window trim would use Frosty’ tool! Not his tool, but the one he showed.:rofl: The upper trim that wraps around the window? It depends on what kind of clips are used? That I’m not sure of. So you might be able to use the window trim tool, but  my guess is it could be what I think JustA I suggesting. You have to remove the inside panels and remove a nut. 

I actually think it’s another type of clip though. This type of clip has two upset lips on each end that snap into the inside groove of the trim on each side. Possibly with a nutted clip at each finished end. I would take a couple plastic body filler spreaders at the rear glass area and insert them, one on top of the other, under the trim. This should raise the trim up. If it doesn’t raise it enough to see under the trim use a broad blade putty knife between the two spreaders to raise it more to see if you can tell what type of clip. Once that is known removal will be much easier.

The steering wheel! Well obviously you have to pull it. I think Frosty’s on the right track!  Clearly you have to get rid of all the plastic on the ring. If you can pull the broken section back in place where the ring looks round & you can weld it that’s the simplest. But you more than likely will have to cut the plastic on the two arms back as well. Than getting a material that will adhere to the old existing plastic and fill the rim without cracking may be a challenge. I have a few thoughts as to how you might restore it as best you can without sending it to a restorer, but see what you find when you take it apart first.

thnaks Last Indian, i do exactly what you have suggested, and tonge in cheek it dont stuff it !!!😦

52 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

Found a couple things that may or maynot be a waste of your time.

 

some cool videos too Justa 👍

i am going to pull the wheel and break it down, and i like the idea of the stone top epoxy, i have a mate who owns a bench top factory, he will have this stuff, and like frosty said, for get the cleary and just go solid colour:cheers:

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8 hours ago, JUSTA6 said:

Found a couple things that may or maynot be a waste of your time.

 

Justa6... i may or may not of just wet my pants watching the video of the black convertible 64 bonny !!! i want one !!! 

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Anyone have a moist towelette for kiwi here !?!?!  Kitter liter - aisle one!

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9 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Justa6... i may or may not of just wet my pants watching the video of the black convertible 64 bonny !!! i want one !!! 

I liked the dealer vid.  Checkin out all the original parts and what was available.

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Pulled the belt line reveal off, after i had removed the interior trim and found 2 nuts and another in the boot👍 thanks guys,, i was thinking they where just clips pushed in.

i was lucky as its just surface rust only, so i have treated it and primed.

But the retaining clips are buggered, and i cant find anyone who is selling them, which brings me to this question. 

Being a 2 door hard top identical to a 64 impala, could the trim be the same... if so i found these guys sell the clips

  https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/product/1964/1964-chevrolet-impala-caprice-bel-air-rear-window-belt-reveal-molding-clip-kit-lower-c9082/81172

rust under trim.JPG

treated.JPG

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Front grill support panels primed and just like the fender, they will need a bit more attention when i can get my hands in some hi build primer surfacer. 

front trim primed.JPG

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Pulled the broken steering wheel off and you can see where its not broken, it has been cut !!, there is cut marks like a jaws of life have chopped it:o

So i have straightened it, mig welded it and Last Indian has given me the idea i can fill it and file it. So i have tonight filled it with a 2 pot epoxy polymer and lets see tomorrow what its like and hopefully i can get too and start filing it.

i am guessing that the wheel is covered in an acrylic  plastic ??? its certainly not Bakelite.

 My plan is to sand it flat and paint it Black, but what paint to use on this material... and as always at the moment, do i have anything in the shelf that will do it... i am running out of supplies real quick  and we still have 2 more weeks of complete lock down, prime minister today is talking 23 April moving out of full lock down to a level 3... which means i can get back to work!! 

weee hee !! before my company goes completely bust 😡 

broken steering wheel.JPG

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