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TranzAm69's 1964 GTO

2022 May
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Lucy, Lucy, Lucy


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2 hours ago, Professur said:

What is this vac ball of which you speak? Personally I'm not a fan of vacuum bleeding.  When you lower the pressure on a fluid, any dissolved gas can boil out.  This can lead to more gas pockets in the lines than you started with.  Shouldn't really be a problem unless you're dealing with the worst case scenarios, but my gut won't let me take that chance.

Pro, I couldn't agree more! Basically it's similar to gravity bleeding, but way faster or more like siphoning, but much better. When I ran pure silicone in my Z brake system the silicone was very high end, used in the MK46 torpedo built in Cleveland and used by the US Navy which tested it in the Mariana trench off Seattle. This fluid was horrible to bleed, infinite for air.

Anyway this was the only way I could bleed that fluid. See attached photos. Once you fill the master cylinder you leave the cap just sitting over the opening and you must obviously keep it filled so the bottom outlets don't come uncovered. You simply squeeze the vac ball and release. It then sucks fluid from the master cylinder, fills the ball, squeeze again the check valve closes preventing fluid from going backwards, but pushes the fluid in the ball out into the container. When you release the ball again it sucks more fluid! The bleeder valve just needs cracked a little, but the threads should be coated with anti-seize to prevent air from coming in around the treads.

 

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Ah ... I've always heard that called a siphon bulb.  Wouldn't want to put one up against regular dot 3. Neat idea tho ... definitely avoids the issue of pushing the brake pedal too far and tearing a seal in the MC.

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Pro, it will work with Dot 3 fluid or even acidic fluids, gas etc. https://www.thomassci.com/Laboratory-Supplies/Pipet-Bulbs/_/8AFF0743-D0A6-421B-A8B2-85EFD4A9E64C?q=Rubber Bulb

I've used it with dot 3, 4, 5.1 and 5 as well as battery acid, gas, stoddard, textile spirits and lacquer thinner. 

If you what to try one and can't get one or get it easily let me know. I'll get you one!

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Well I did work for a chemical additive company for 39 years!:D perks,You know!

Edited by Last Indian
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No. Lubrizol, the world headquarters/R&D.

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I am told the ride with the freshman "Princess" went very well. The car was back before just before I got home from work. I have not seen any photographs yet from the homecoming parade. Lucy is now put back into storage.

I may have Lucy out on last time to look everything over, otherwise she is put away for her long winter's nap.

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On ‎10‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 6:28 PM, Last Indian said:

No. Lubrizol, the world headquarters/R&D.

Wickliffe Ohio - between Euclid and Wiiloughby Hills off of I-90 - about 17 miles NE of Cleveland.

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7 hours ago, Frosty said:

Wickliffe Ohio - between Euclid and Wiiloughby Hills off of I-90 - about 17 miles NE of Cleveland.

Yes! Lubrizol is in Wickliffe, but actually off RT-2, 90 & 2 split at the Euclid exchange, 90 goes a little South and 2 goes North. you can actually see what we call the oil can from RT-2 on the south side.

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I've driven thru Wickliffe a couple of times on I-90 on my to and from Warren, PA. Of course, I don't remember a thing about it since it was well over 15 years ago.

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On 10/17/2017 at 12:16 PM, Frosty said:

I've driven thru Wickliffe a couple of times on I-90 on my to and from Warren, PA. Of course, I don't remember a thing about it since it was well over 15 years ago.

It’s a little bit like Midland Michigan and Dow Chemical. Except Lubrizol is smaller and so is Wicklife!

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10 hours ago, Last Indian said:

It’s a little bit like Midland Michigan and Dow Chemical. Except Lubrizol is smaller and so is Wicklife!

Touche. 

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  • 8 months later...

Lucy is still giving me fits. I need to stop going to the Bowman show with Indyman Joe and JUSTA6. Both times have uncovered issues with my power convertible top. Last year was a leaking hydraulic line. I replaced both lines and both rams just to be sure. This year is a leaking hydraulic line. Grrr....1831016389_IMG_30061.thumb.JPG.4d42a03c6c8ef62304179f8055054864.JPG

I have a 4th of July parade to be in. So I've disconnected the rams from the top. The top is now a manual drop top - for the time being. I had to remove the rear seat beats because some of them got wet with transmission fluid. I will wash them out this week but I won't re-install them until I have the top permanently fixed. I had to cut out more of the DynoMat too. It was saturated with oil.

My next problem is finding a reputable shop to fix this in my neck of the woods. This is aggravating. :stars:

Edited by Frosty
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That sucks...........

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3 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

That sucks...........

Yes, yes it does!

Especially since replacing a line became replacing both lines and both rams and the f'ing thing is still leaking.

Edited by Frosty
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Let me know if you need some seat belt parts at the parade as I do have some laying around here but I may have to find them.

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1 minute ago, notallthere said:

Let me know if you need some seat belt parts at the parade as I do have some laying around here but I may have to find them.

Thanks, I appreciate the offer but I have all the parts. I removed the seat belts because some of them got oil on them. I am just not going to put them back until the damn leak is permanently fixed.

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5 hours ago, Frosty said:

Yes, yes it does!

Especially since replacing a line became replacing both lines and both rams and the f'ing thing is still leaking.

Ya! That really does suck! Can you take a few pic too show the problem area! Might be able to give you a couple ideas as to how to fix it. Also I’m sure you know how to get the oil out of the belts, but if you can get some textile sprits that will real do the best job of cleaning them! 

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49 minutes ago, Last Indian said:

Ya! That really does suck! Can you take a few pic too show the problem area! Might be able to give you a couple ideas as to how to fix it. Also I’m sure you know how to get the oil out of the belts, but if you can get some textile sprits that will real do the best job of cleaning them! 

I should have taken a picture. Sorry about that.

Basically the top hydraulic line is leaking on the passenger side ram. I suspect that the threads are not seating all the way in, like they are either galled or cross threaded. I am reluctant to force the threads any tighter. I don't wish to damage the rams or the line if I can help. The lines are $100 each and the rams are over $200. I have an extra line and I still have the original rams. I replace the rams because the new lines didn't fit will into the top connections of the old ram. The top of the old rams are plastic and the new ones are made of metal.

 

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45 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I should have taken a picture. Sorry about that.

Basically the top hydraulic line is leaking on the passenger side ram. I suspect that the threads are not seating all the way in, like they are either galled or cross threaded. I am reluctant to force the threads any tighter. I don't wish to damage the rams or the line if I can help. The lines are $100 each and the rams are over $200. I have an extra line and I still have the original rams. I replace the rams because the new lines didn't fit will into the top connections of the old ram. The top of the old rams are plastic and the new ones are made of metal.

 

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I can’t really tell from the pic how the plastic line connects to its fitting, but presuming that it’s removable, as in a feral fitting. Take the plastic line out, then un thread the fitting in the ram. It appears to be 1/4” pipe in the picture you have. That said make sure what size it is, 1/8 or 1/4, the get a pipe tap for that size. 

Take a light and look in to the hole, it should just go into a cavity. If so take a small file and file top of the threaded hole just enough to remove any burs or protrusions, wipe it clean with a rag. 

Take the tap and put Vaseline on it, carefully thread it in the hole by hand. Once it gets about three to four turns in it should get tight. When you can’t turn it by hand anymore take a crescent wrench can tighten about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. 

When done with that remove the tap, any chips or debris should stay in the Vaseline.  

Now take a new brass fitting of the right size and thread it in the hole. From the point at which the fitting grabs the threads and starts to pull into the threads it should only go in 3 1/2 to 4 turns by hand. If it goes in deeper let me know how much. If it doesn’t go in that many turns then you need to reuse the tap and cut the threads deeper accordingly. Once you get the fitting in the correct tuns by hand another 1 to 1 1/2 by a wrench is needed.

If you get that done, clean the hole and the old fittings up and use them unless they’re damaged. When you install the fitting into the hole use Teflon pipe dope, not tape. I could go into what would be a long explanation, but there’s no reason. Just use the pipe dope not tape! Then reassemble everything.

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2 hours ago, Last Indian said:

I can’t really tell from the pic how the plastic line connects to its fitting, but presuming that it’s removable, as in a feral fitting. Take the plastic line out, then un thread the fitting in the ram. It appears to be 1/4” pipe in the picture you have. That said make sure what size it is, 1/8 or 1/4, the get a pipe tap for that size. 

Take a light and look in to the hole, it should just go into a cavity. If so take a small file and file top of the threaded hole just enough to remove any burs or protrusions, wipe it clean with a rag. 

Take the tap and put Vaseline on it, carefully thread it in the hole by hand. Once it gets about three to four turns in it should get tight. When you can’t turn it by hand anymore take a crescent wrench can tighten about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. 

When done with that remove the tap, any chips or debris should stay in the Vaseline.  

Now take a new brass fitting of the right size and thread it in the hole. From the point at which the fitting grabs the threads and starts to pull into the threads it should only go in 3 1/2 to 4 turns by hand. If it goes in deeper let me know how much. If it doesn’t go in that many turns then you need to reuse the tap and cut the threads deeper accordingly. Once you get the fitting in the correct tuns by hand another 1 to 1 1/2 by a wrench is needed.

If you get that done, clean the hole and the old fittings up and use them unless they’re damaged. When you install the fitting into the hole use Teflon pipe dope, not tape. I could go into what would be a long explanation, but there’s no reason. Just use the pipe dope not tape! Then reassemble everything.

Good advice last Indian.  I've never had probs using tape, but you have to know whatcha doing.  Start at bottom of threads (no excess to plug hose, and in a clockwise motion so when ya insert fitting it follows the tape N not trying to unwrap it as you tighten) Dope is the easiest, and will stay flexable after tightening.  I don't understand why, after Frosty bought new hose, it had the wrong fitings for what he is replacing.  Same rams are used for all convert tops back to the 60's no matter the make or model of American car.  I use them in the Sunbird to raise N lower my hood from inside the car.  Back to Frosty...he then had to buy new rams matching the new hoses.  I was thinkin he didn't burp the system and get all the air out.  Only to find out it was leaking and lettin air in.  

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1 hour ago, JUSTA6 said:

Good advice last Indian.  I've never had probs using tape, but you have to know whatcha doing.  Start at bottom of threads (no excess to plug hose, and in a clockwise motion so when ya insert fitting it follows the tape N not trying to unwrap it as you tighten) Dope is the easiest, and will stay flexable after tightening.  I don't understand why, after Frosty bought new hose, it had the wrong fitings for what he is replacing.  Same rams are used for all convert tops back to the 60's no matter the make or model of American car.  I use them in the Sunbird to raise N lower my hood from inside the car.  Back to Frosty...he then had to buy new rams matching the new hoses.  I was thinkin he didn't burp the system and get all the air out.  Only to find out it was leaking and lettin air in.  

Hey buddy how are you? The confusion with tape is which tape is it? Teflon tape is actually a lubricant for certain metals, it can seal yes, but it is actully a lubrcant to stop galling of the threads. That said there are some tapes for sealing, but as you said pipe dope is a safer bet.

The other thing you might help Forsty with is the thread pitch. I don’t know where the rams came from (made) but it is possible, unlikely, but possibly the thread is British pipe not America and they’re one thread off, 19 tpi vs 18 tpi. Need to varify they’re American both the tapped hole and the fitting.

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2 hours ago, Last Indian said:

Hey buddy how are you? The confusion with tape is which tape is it? Teflon tape is actually a lubricant for certain metals, it can seal yes, but it is actully a lubrcant to stop galling of the threads. That said there are some tapes for sealing, but as you said pipe dope is a safer bet.

The other thing you might help Forsty with is the thread pitch. I don’t know where the rams came from (made) but it is possible, unlikely, but possibly the thread is British pipe not America and they’re one thread off, 19 tpi vs 18 tpi. Need to varify they’re American both the tapped hole and the fitting.

Hey buddy. Last I heard you were flooding?? Then you were painting your front end so I assumed the water is gone.  How's everything there? Heats been killer here.   Far as I know Frosty got this stuff from NPD.  Usually really good for parts and fairly close to us here in Mich.  Will see Frosty next week at the Widetracker meeting and talk about this more. Besides, he will need help manually putting his top up. hehehe :rofl: He's attending a parade on the 4th with the club, so I know the top will be down. :driving:

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