Hello,

  This is my sixty dollar, junk yard, most likely dead 4L60E transmission bolted up to the rebuilt engine for the first time. Getting these two completely together was not easy even though it should be - simply align the dowel pins to the holes and apply the bolts. The two would align and go together but . . . not quite. A gap of about a quarter of an inch remained between them and I was not about to turn up the torque and twist those five bolts even tighter - and maybe damage the bellhousing.  I knew the threads on the engine side were clean because I ran an M10 x 1.5 tap through each hole to renew the threads and clean out the hole. 

  When I got this engine out of the junk yard, it came to me without any transmission to engine bolts and the vehicle's 4L60E transmission was already gone and purchased by somebody else.  So, I set about the junk yard to pick up suitable looking bolts and gathered up maybe 10-12 that looked right.  These bolt threads were also cleaned up.

  What are the odds but it appears that the bolts that I picked up on the ground were all for a different transmission - probably a 4L80E.  And they are all just a little bit too long.  I looked around my bolt buckets and found some slightly shorter M10 x 1.5 bolts and these easily pulled the motor and transmission together for that final bit of closure.

   Trouble is, my spare bolts are not of a Grade 8 or better strength and I will need to find a set of a suitable strength later today or Monday at a good hardware store.   All of this gets me ready to test fit the engine and transmission into the engine compartment for the first time.

Hello,

   The transmission and engine went in and came back out.  Things fit (almost) about as well as I expected except that I will need to take the cut off wheel to some engine compartment frame cradle steel to give the starter motor additional clearance.  This soon-to-be-gone steel is not structural and appears to be the base of engine mount for the old 400 cubic inch motor on the passenger side.  It is also possible that the engine oil dipstick will need to be shortened.

  I say "almost" because the back end of the 4L60E has a little more height than the TH400 transmission that came in the Catalina.  The transmission tunnel hump appears to have plenty sufficient width all the way to the back of the transmission but not enough height about eight inches forward of the back end.   The width is plentiful enough that the car will have no trouble with sheet metal clearance at the transmission cooler line fittings on the passenger side.  The vehicle speed sensor at the far passenger side rear of the transmission tail shaft also has plenty of clearance for its wiring connector.

   The top of the 4L60E left me a very good indication in the old undercoating for me to know where to start opening up that area of the floor.  I will need to drill a hole in the pan metal at that point from the bottom up into the passenger compartment to know exactly where to start snipping and I plan to go slow with the snipping - to not cut too much.   A new, 18 gauge elevated piece of sheet metal will cover up my hole for the 4L60E relief clearance and then I think . . . that patch panel will be covered up by the bottom of the front seat.

  Up onto jack stands the Catalina now goes to give me some underneath workspace.

Rick 

 

   

 

Your attention to detail is impressive. In stark contrast, if I can't hammer something into place, it ain't going there.

Hello,

  It has been tough the last week to do much with the Cat in the evenings - yard mowing, out to dinner, etc.  Weekends are for major progress.

  With the assistance of my oldest son, we were able to set the engine and trans assembly back into the car so that I could mark the location in the driveshaft tunnel underneath where the tunnel needs to be opened up.  Hammering to stretch the metal will not be sufficient to make enough room and the tunnel will be slit open with the cutoff wheel in a more controlled manner from above to make room for the tailshaft.  It still does not appear that needing any extra tunnel width will be required - from the front to the back - only adding some height to the sheet metal. Once the tunnel is opened up for height, the engine and transmission angles towards the differential can be set correctly with MIG welding the engine-to-frame stands to the frame cradle. That previously mentioned G-Force B-Body transmission crossmember will support the transmission at the rear.  I've also already placed a new 1350 Series, 27 spline, 4L60E driveshaft yoke into the transmission tailshaft to check it's clearance with the tunnel - no problems, so far.  After church this morning, tunnel cutting will commence.

  I was able to make some practice MIG welds earlier this week on some quarter inch steel bar stock very similar to the material that the actual ICT Billet engine mount frame stands are made with. Up until now, I had never been able to make good welds with my MIG on steel that thick with my light duty Lincoln welder - due to a lack of dependable wire feed.  I turned up the power on the Lincoln to "Eleven" (LOL) and it did very nicely on the thick steel and I am now confident that I will not need a professional welder to show up here to weld the ICT Billet stands to the Catalina frame engine cradle.  I have good access for at least tack welding in these engine frame stands and then can pull the engine / trans again to finish the job.

Rick

 

Hello,

  I've gotten a few things done so far this week and as you might guess, I discover new things along the way that need attention.

  I've gotten the used LS intake manifold assembled with all new sensors, gaskets and a used drive-by-cable throttle body.  I had to add a small section of brass pipe to replace a vacuum tube that connects the brake booster to a vacuum source.  The brass pipe got sealed at the entrance to the intake with some JB Weld. Before all of this assembly effort, the manifold got a very long and internal / external cleaning with a pressure washer.

  Two racks of ignition coils got pressure washed and mounted to the valve covers.  My set of ICT Billet Universal LS engine spark plug wires got here a few weeks ago and they are now out of the box and hanging from the coils. I still need to cut the wires to length, strip the insulation and crimp the connectors but the You Tube videos make that easy.

  I measured and re-measured again the available size of area that is around the current fuel tank.  I have now ordered the "Tanks, Inc."  TM37C-T fuel tank that fits various 1965 to about 1970  GM B-Body vehicles. This is a very slightly larger than stock fuel tank that holds twenty four gallons of dead dinosaur juice. I'm going to run an internal 190 liter per hour Walbro fuel pump here with a Wix part number 33737 combined 60 PSI pressure regulator and fuel filter. I have also ordered the "armless" 0-90 ohms fuel gauge sending unit - it measures the fuel via electronic capacitance  -- think "microfarads" here. Lastly, I have ordered a small access door for use in the trunk immediately above the fuel tank area where the fuel pump and sending unit operate.  If they ever need to be replaced, it'll be vastly easier than removing the tank. 

Earlier tonight, I cut away the last bit of the old Pontiac 400 CI engine mount on the drivers side.  It wasn't quite in the way but almost and just needed to go away. I could probably grind it a little more.

  And lastly, I've been staring at my original but very rusty and rusted through battery tray.  Nobody stocks a Catalina new battery tray and the general purpose B-Body and Grand Prix battery trays that are available new are not close to fitting.  But a roughly 1999-2006 Chevy / GM truck Yukon / Denali battery tray is a close substitute.  I bought a used one at the JY last Saturday for six bucks and the picture shows the old tray sitting nicely inside the used junk yard tray.  I need to weld a few metal tabs onto the new tray to make it look like the old tray and it will bolt in nicely with no new holes drilled into the Catalina.

Rick

 

Nice work, Rick. You're making good progress.

Hello Peter,

  I try to do something every day.  But its already getting hot here and two hours in the afternoon after work is about my limit.

  But I had the day off today and got quite a bit accomplished.  My fuel tank, pump, sending unit and access panel for the pump and sending unit got here today.  I will get the new tank assembled and the old tank removed tomorrow.

  I pondered the Silverado battery tray a little more on how it needs to fit - getting it level in the compartment was the initial goal.  With just a little persuasion using a two pound hammer (on the tray, not the car), the tray now fits very close to level and about an inch lower down in the engine compartment.  My next issue is how to fabricate a battery hold down clamp to prevent it from scooting around too much.  I might have to go back to the junk yard tomorrow for dirt cheap piece parts to make this happen. And I need to create and weld in some mounting tabs. - 18 gauge, at least, maybe stronger.

  I've started to figure out my power steering hose situation.  Getting a five foot low pressure return line created new to fit the low pressure fitting coming out of the Pontiac's Saginaw original steering gear box was easy.  They still make that fitting and I wanted it with a 90 degree bend at the gear box - $52.25 later, I had my new hose.  However, the high pressure O-ring flare fitting at the steering gear box was nowhere to be found in this town.   But the good people at "Lee Power Steering" had  loose adapters for the Saginaw end of the hose and the LS Type 2 power steering pump end that one of the local shops around here can adapt to.  I need about 32 inches of length in the new hose and it'll be simple for somebody to create the hose when the adapters get here from Lee.

https://leepowersteering.com/

Rick

Hello,

  Today's progress.   The trip to the JY was eventful.  I picked up the Silverado plastic battery hold down block and its M8.0 x 1.25 bolt and a same-sized nut for use on the other side of the tray.  A hole drilled in the correct spot and then tack welding the M8.0 nut to the underside of the tray gives me a hold down where it can be tightened.  The tray fits best in the arrangement shown in the earlier pictures but that put the original hold down location in an unreachable position for a socket wrench. Lucky for me, the M8.0 nut had a flanged edge, kinda' like a washer.  This made the welding easy.

  It took me two hours to do it but my spark plug wires are now cut to length, the connector crimped and installed.   But wow!!  Don't let anybody tell you that getting the spark plug boots down over the wire to the connector is easy.  The wire insulation and the boot both needed a slippery concoction of assembly lube and Deep Creep spray lubricant to get things to slide at all . . . and still with considerable difficulty. 

  My back was hurting too much to squirm around on the floor to remove my old fuel tank.  Maybe tomorrow.  I will also try to assemble the new tank.  I always seem to plan out more work than I can ever actually get done and I'm sweating buckets on most afternoons.

Rick 

On 4/13/2024 at 3:51 PM, B52bombardier1 said:

Hello Again,

   I'm way too slow creating these small sheet metal patch panels to ever make a living at it but I think this one turned out very nicely.  I must have made twenty five trips from the car to the electric grinder slowly making the patch smaller so that it would fit the hole and I still need to sand off the green paint around the edge with the Roll Lock disk.

  And then fight with my MIG welder for making the wire feed.

Rick

 

 

There you go, like the magnets for holding it in place , tack away nice and slow to let it cool in-between and it will be perfect.

Hello,

   I can't believe that I forgot to mention yesterday that I hooked up one of those Autometer oil pressure gauges that use the narrow plastic tube for its oil feed.  It took about 45 seconds of cranking the starter to fill up the oil filter and circulate the oil but the meter settled on about 47 PSI.   I'm very happy with that number but my face was filled with doubt passing through about thirty seconds of cranking!!

 Which leads me to think that I might install the engine wiring harness and connect this motor up to my shop-use-only, junk yard acquired, Honda Accord radiator and dual fan assembly to see if it'll start and run. My intake manifold is assembled and ready to go with a set of junk yard, 26 pounds of fuel per hour, Multek fuel injectors that I cleaned and spray pattern checked a few months ago.  You can call me a cheap tight wad if you want but these fuel injectors are about $88.00 each new at Rock Auto and I'm afraid to ask the parts guy at the local Chevy dealer what he would charge me.  These injectors and their fuel flow parameters are the type that are planned into powertrain control module (PCM) operating system (OS) "tune".  I have two PCM's already set aside and ready to go with my desired GM OS (12212156) and set for a 650 engine RPM.  These PCM's also have their "Vehicle Antitheft System" security attributes killed off inside the OS but the thing that I don't know yet is the differential gear ratio number.   That gear ratio combined with the rear tire height and my choice of stock 4L60E transmission internal gear ratios are all needed to tell the transmission when to shift.  Its some very simple arithmetic math to calculate the numbers that need to go into the tune but that can all wait until I can get the cover off the differential.

 As a substitute for not having an actual vehicle fuel tank and fuel pump, I have a small fuel tank that I can pressurize to 60 PSI using my small shop compressor and feed that fuel to the engine.  If the engine starts, it'll be extremely loud with that set of S-10 truck shorty headers - with no pipe extensions. I mean REALLY LOUD.  But my curiosity about whether this engine will run is high and it'll be easier to fix anything with the motor now rather than later with it installed in the Catalina.  

Rick

Make sure you get that battery to sit secure in it's new tray. I once went around a corner in one of my old Fairlanes whereupon the brand new 3 day old battery slid off it's tray and into the cooling fan spraying battery acid all over the engine & surrounds.

Good times...

Something similar happened on an episode of Roadkill or Roadkill Garage. At Famoso Dragway in Bakersfield, their bungee cord battery hood down failed and the battery slid into the alternator belt, spraying battery acid everywhere under the hood, you see them hosing down the engine bay once they realize what happened,.

Hello,

   Yes, I have seen that episode at Famoso recently and I felt sorry for the car.  And what a mess!!

Rick

 

 

Hello,

  As I mentioned before, Catalina revival things happen more slowly during the week.  I got the battery tray bolted into the car earlier this evening.  I kept fighting with getting it to be level and deep enough down into the engine compartment that I would not have to worry about the top posts of the battery being near any body sheet metal.  It took me a while to realize that I could stop fighting and simply use the cut off wheel to slightly trim the tray where I needed the room to get it to sit lower and level.  I welded in three new metal tabs and used part of the tray metal as two other anchor points and the tray is now firmly attached at five different places.  The battery posts are 1.5 inches below the top of the radiator core support.   The Catalina was level and the two bubble levels on the tray are also level.  I will definitely heed your advice about properly anchoring the battery to the tray.

    I put a serpentine belt on the motor yesterday and I think I will leak check the fuel injector O-rings and their pintles tomorrow by pressurizing the fuel rails with 60 PSI of fuel.  I'd rather catch this problem now with the intake manifold off the engine rather than later with it all in the engine compartment.  I've got the donor vehicle Silverado battery positive cable mounted to the starter motor and the other end mounted to the alternator bracket.  I'm using Adel clamps to keep that fat cable under control and attached to the front of the oil pan .  The fusible link is attached to an already bench tested DR44 130 amp alternator.  I'm making my own battery negative cable but I discovered that my copper solder connectors are not fat enough to handle a cable this thick - a local parts store will have what I need to finish this cable. 

  My back is still bothering me enough that I don't want to wallow around on the floor to remove the old fuel tank.  Maybe soon.  But I will try to get the Walbro fuel pump and its pickup tube cut to length and the fuel sock attached tomorrow.  I also need to ops check the fuel tank sending unit for the correct 0 to 90 ohms reading with my multimeter.  

  I'd like to get a helper over to assist with putting the engine and trans back into the engine compartment for one last check before I start cutting floor sheet metal.  But everybody is busy.

 Its going to take a while but the Cat will eventually move under its own power.

Rick

your doing a fantastic job rick 

Hello,

  Today and yesterday were productive days.  I got the new fuel tank assembled but the armless float fuel level mechanism only goes to 76 ohms of resistance rather than the required 90 ohms.  I will be calling Tanks, Inc. about this tomorrow.  A before and after picture of the fuel pump assembly is offered below.  The hose barbed brass inlet and outlet fittings on the fuel pump assembly are not included in the kit with the fuel pump. I found these at the big box Lowes store in the plumbing section and I hope that I can find a set with a little larger of an opening on the barbed ends. The old fuel tank is still in the car.

 My oldest son and I put the motor and transmission back in which allowed me to make a final determination of where to cut the tunnel tin.  I need to get the whole car up on jack stands so that I can look around better to see from below where the floor pan might need a little more cutting.   Its a lot closer to fitting after today and I don't want to cut too much.  I think I will buy an inexpensive Harbor Freight inspection camera so that I can see places from above that I won't be able to see from below.

Rick 

Hello Again,

  This afternoon I made some very good progress - I got the old fuel tank out.  But it was a huge chore because the tank strap bolts were very rusty and I quickly gave up using a 9/16ths socket to loosen the straps.  I was trying to avoid using anything that shed sparks because of working near the fuel tank.  I tried using a reciprocating saw but the blade was ineffective against those steel bolts.  So I tried a bolt cutter but I could never get a good angle and grip on the handles to make the cuts.

   So . . . . with a fire extinguisher nearby, it took about sixty seconds each to cut through the bolts using a cutoff wheel and I didn't blow myself up. But then I had to remove the trailer ball hitch apparatus that kept the tank from dropping to the shop floor.  All in all, I spent about two hours getting the tank down. There was a crumpled up, mostly unreadable copy of the build sheet on top of the tank but it was not worth keeping. The copy of the build sheet that I got out of the bench seat springs is perfect compared to the sheet off the top of the tank. 

  I figured it had some gas in it but it was only about four gallons.  It was some very rusty, smelly dead dinosaur juice and I have no idea how I'm going to get rid of it. Out of curiosity, I will take a look at the inside of the tank tomorrow but it really doesn't matter.  Now that this old tank is gone, the new Tanks, Inc. B-body model "TM37C-T" fuel tank will be lifted into the spot for some test fitting tomorrow.

   At the insistence of the Tanks, Inc customer service people,  I also took another set of resistance measurements of the armless sending unit.  They wanted measurements of it right side up and upside down and I sent them pictures of the multimeter screen readings. I should hear something from them next week. 

  I'm also still cutting away some transmission tunnel sheet metal and I'm just about finished.  But I think the engine and transmission will need to come out for me to make the last few cuts.   I bought two small sheets of ungalvanized, cold rolled, 22 gauge sheet metal earlier this week at Home Depot which should be enough to rebuild the tunnel.  

Rick

 

 

 

Glad it worked out.  Tanks are always a pain.

Hello,

   The fuel injection ready fuel tank has been test fitted and it fits.  My measuring and re-measuring told me it should fit and the people at Tanks, Inc told me its a B-body tank that should fit.  And it did fit although the rear bumper has to come off so that I can install the new, longer tank support straps.  This would have been an expensive mistake if the tank didn't fit.  This tank comes within about an inch of interfering with an exhaust pipe hanger on the passenger side but that would have been easy to fix.  Nothing else is close at all and the fuel filler neck is plenty long enough.   I still need to run fuel and vent lines plus fuel pump wiring and mount the combined Wix part number 33737 fuel filter / pressure regulator but there's no mystery to installing those things. 

  It is brutally hot here today and if nothing else gets done on the Cat, its been a successful day. If it cools off a little this evening, I might cut on the transmission tunnel a little more.

Rick

 

On 6/7/2024 at 7:08 PM, B52bombardier1 said:

Hello Again,

  This afternoon I made some very good progress - I got the old fuel tank out.  But it was a huge chore because the tank strap bolts were very rusty and I quickly gave up using a 9/16ths socket to loosen the straps.  I was trying to avoid using anything that shed sparks because of working near the fuel tank.  I tried using a reciprocating saw but the blade was ineffective against those steel bolts.  So I tried a bolt cutter but I could never get a good angle and grip on the handles to make the cuts.

   So . . . . with a fire extinguisher nearby, it took about sixty seconds each to cut through the bolts using a cutoff wheel and I didn't blow myself up. But then I had to remove the trailer ball hitch apparatus that kept the tank from dropping to the shop floor.  All in all, I spent about two hours getting the tank down. There was a crumpled up, mostly unreadable copy of the build sheet on top of the tank but it was not worth keeping. The copy of the build sheet that I got out of the bench seat springs is perfect compared to the sheet off the top of the tank. 

  I figured it had some gas in it but it was only about four gallons.  It was some very rusty, smelly dead dinosaur juice and I have no idea how I'm going to get rid of it. Out of curiosity, I will take a look at the inside of the tank tomorrow but it really doesn't matter.  Now that this old tank is gone, the new Tanks, Inc. B-body model "TM37C-T" fuel tank will be lifted into the spot for some test fitting tomorrow.

   At the insistence of the Tanks, Inc customer service people,  I also took another set of resistance measurements of the armless sending unit.  They wanted measurements of it right side up and upside down and I sent them pictures of the multimeter screen readings. I should hear something from them next week. 

  I'm also still cutting away some transmission tunnel sheet metal and I'm just about finished.  But I think the engine and transmission will need to come out for me to make the last few cuts.   I bought two small sheets of ungalvanized, cold rolled, 22 gauge sheet metal earlier this week at Home Depot which should be enough to rebuild the tunnel.  

Rick

 

 

 

Just a couple of things, to get rid of the old gas i poured mine up on s open pan and just let it sit and evaporate, I just kept adding and eventually it was gone but it is a bit smelly.

Something else I learned from a friend that has done a few of these tank conversations, before you mount the tank check the resistance on your sending unit installed in the tank,just flip the tank upside down to check the "full" value.

You are making good progress 😃

Hello,

  I'm within my desired five degrees of alignment on the transmission to the rear of the Catalina, according to the clinometer app on my phone.  It took more snipping of tin than I thought would be required mostly because of warty little protuberances along the back end of the 4L60E.  This has been achieved without the use of big hammers swung from beneath . . . mostly because the Cat ain't high enough off the ground for me to swing a hammer.    Oh, if I only had a lift for the whole car. I do believe the floor pan will still need some hammer persuasion in places around the slip yoke because its very close and I'm trying to avoid opening up a larger floor pan area.

 I'd still be out there if it wasn't so hot.  My next steps will be hand bending some sheet metal in the direction I need it to go and then inside the car test fitting it. I'm almost of a mind to seek a large single piece of 22 gauge ungalvanized steel rather than the individual pieces that I've already purchased.  I'm also going to cut up some cardboard as a template to see how this addition to the hump might go.   Some of those remaining jagged edges will also be the source of more sparks inside the cockpit of the Cat as I clean up the workspace a little. I haven't set myself on fire yet but it sure felt close a few times.

Rick

Hello,

   Its too hot to work on the Cat in the shop for very long so I figured I would do some indoor but yet important things.  OTOH, a few items did arrive by mail this week.  My warranty replacement armless fuel tank sending unit arrived today with almost perfect resistance numbers for fuel tank level accuracy. And my two Cold Case electric radiator fans plus their shroud arrived a few days ago and have slowly gotten assembled and tested since then.  They work perfectly and the two fans plus the shroud got pop riveted to my Cold Case LS swap radiator.  And lastly, my old Pontiac Rally wheels made it into and out of the sand blasting place here in town.  They cleaned up nicely and quickly got a coat of primer paint to prevent almost immediate flash rusting of the raw steel.  I'm still deciding on their new paint scheme but my wife will certainly outvote me here.

   And now for the important indoor thing that got done / re-done tonight.  When I first got the idea of putting a modern LS engine into the Catalina earlier this year, I went ahead and wrote a Powertrain Control Module operating system tune to two PCM devices.  But this was back when I thought I might run a Flex Fuel tune and a Drive-By-Wire electronic throttle control capability in the OS.  I have since changed my mind to eliminate the E-85 Flex Fuel option and to run a drive-by-cable throttle body.  Hence, the need to reflash at least two PCM devices (a primary and a spare) so that when I get ready to start this rebuilt engine, I will be ready.

  Going back to when I LS swapped my El Camino, I built a PCM wire harness and 12 volt power supply system with junk yard parts and an old 13.8 VDC Radio Shack power supply.  To dependably read and especially write to these PCM's, you need an honest two amps of clean, non noisy (very little alternating current ripple) and reliable power.  Wall wart 12 volt DC power supplies need not apply for this job unless you want to turn your PCM into a wheel chock or a door stop.  And yes, I'm a cheap tight wad that doesn't like to spend money paying for PCM tuning.  These programs are freeware and work well for me.

   The pictures basically step you through the "PCM Hammer" writing process and I have completely eliminated the "Tuner Pro RT" OS file editing process. Basically, these are 512k byte devices but not all of that space capacity is used to operate the PCM.  The extra but empty memory capacity is used to load a "kernel" helper program that allows PCM Hammer to take control of the device and then put an all new operating system in.  I select the "Write Full Flash Clone" option and it takes about 3.5 minutes to finish.

  I may yet have to do this again because I have told the PCM to expect a 2.73 rear differential gear ratio and I have no idea if that is really what is in the Cat's differential.  But at least the motor will start and run and the 4L60E transmission should propel the vehicle . . . . hopefully someday soon.

Rick 

 

 

2 hours ago, B52bombardier1 said:

And now for the important indoor thing that got done / re-done tonight.  When I first got the idea of putting a modern LS engine into the Catalina earlier this year, I went ahead and wrote a Powertrain Control Module operating system tune to two PCM devices. 

you lost me right about here rick ! 

when i built the cortina and used a duratec engine i used the basics from the engine and had a kid build me a basic ecu to run it ( mega squirt brand)

once it was running i took the car to the kid and he stuck it on the dyno and tuned it.

with my 57 build and with the ls 2 i am using a factory holden ecu thats been modified for my basic appication the ecu will still need to be tuned on a dyno i recon once i get the 57 moving !

having said that i am super impressed with how your moving ! i look forward to the next installement mate 

Edited June 15, 20242 yr by 64 kiwi boni

Hello Chris,

   You are not as lost as you seem to indicate and your words above tell me that you know quite a lot about this process. I am only at the 24th stage of PCM tuning awareness and there is so much more to learn.  The "kid" that you mention above far surpasses my knowledge.  He is all about wringing every pony's worth of horsepower out of your motor and that is exactly what you are paying him to do - all of that Volumetric Efficiency, lambda air-to-fuel ratio and engine timing stuff. As my vehicles are purely cruising machines with no need for tire smoke, I'm happy to defeat the Vehicle Anti Theft Security module, make it run and idle nicely, make sure the Check Engine Light / Malfunction Indicator Light turns on appropriately and that the transmission / speedometer both work correctly.

 And what with You Tube and the "PCM Hacking" and the "Gearhead EFI" web sites full of knowledge, nobody at our level has to be an Einstein original thinker with this stuff anymore.   But I do admit to a bit of hoarding mental health sickness here as it relates to our hobby.  I think I have nine of these PCM devices stacked up around here with various states of tuning programmed in.  I go to the junk yards looking for some other part / parts and I can't resist buying a PCM that somebody else has been so kind as to liberate from the dead vehicle for me.  It would be rude of me to leave it behind so I quite often drag it home for very, very short money.    

Rick

Making huge progress.  Nice job!