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Bringin' It Back From The Dead - 70 Catalina Convertible


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Allegedly :rofl:

14 minutes ago, Fitzy said:

 

I used to be a flawlessly good looking man

Edited by 64 kiwi boni
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I get it.  Its hard to be humble when you have the body of a Greek god such that I have . . . . . . . . . . . not.

Rick

 

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Hello,

   With a good bit of cheating, I have been able to apply 13.8 volts DC to an internal connection within the guts of the fuse panel.  All of the rear vehicle lighting works - brake lights, tail lights, turn signals, flashers and the passenger compartment courtesy lights / glove box light also function.  All of the wiring at the front of the vehicle AC / heat and wipers is disconnected by me.  Oddly, the ignition key won't go to the Accessory notch.  And the radio wiring was cut by a previous owner with the connector nowhere to be found. 

But I'm cheating.  I still can't get power past a certain point along a main fat red wire and corrosion does not appear to be the problem.  Still head scratchin' and staring at the wiring diagram a lot.  But it appears that at least some of the 54 year old wiring is in good condition.

 

Rick

 

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I am wondering if your harness isn't grounded properly or you are missing grounds in the car, especially in the engine bay. Justa a thought based on what you've described.

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Hello Frosty,

   I established a very good, temporary ground at the firewall sheet metal with great continuity but yes, all of the original engine compartment grounds are gone - there's no engine or transmission or battery or alternator.   I've come to the conclusion that the portion of the fuse panel that is exposed to the engine compartment is my problem and as of late this morning, I have ordered an all new engine harness - that includes a new plastic fuse panel square block at the firewall.  Plus all new wires, of course.   The old harness was beat up with brittle insulation and the car needed this harness all new anyway.

I have ordered it from Ames but they don't make them or stock these harness assemblies.   They are contracted for production with M&H Electric and this company has a very good reputation but I won't see it until at least three months from now.

  I have plenty of other things to do on the Cat.  I picked up the cutoff wheel earlier this afternoon and cut out the rusty metal behind the driver's rear wheel.  The wheel arch stainless trim had to come off to make the cuts and I had to remove the rear wheel to do that.  So then I picked up a big hammer and tapped the brake drum off - I think the wheel cylinder leaks -- will be replaced anyway.

  I will try to post a few pictures later tonight.

Rick  

 

  

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my mig does the same thing and like you i found out keeping the line straight not curved made a huge improvement. Nice job btw

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Great pictures !!! , there looks to be heaps of room from that steeering box , will be interesting to see how much room you have with the head in and try a manifold on that side ūüĎć

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Hello,

  My desired angles on the front-to-back tilt of the LS engine are looking very achievable.   I've got some easy plus / minus three degrees or so to accommodate the fit of the transmission into the tunnel and towards the differential.  The AC compressor and bracket will also be no problem - good clearance. And though I've only eyeball estimated the fit of the power steering pump / alternator bracket assembly, their fit looks plenty good.

   I got the call from the machine shop about my rebuilt engine today - it will be finished tomorrow.   The cylinders got bored .030 inch over.  They polished the cam and reused it.  The crankshaft, con rods, rocker arms and push rods all got reused and the crank still only needed standard main and rod bearings.  The motor got new lifters, trays and a high-volume oil pump plus timing chain and gears.  The motor got ARP racing head bolts and will get ARP exhaust manifold bolts.  They want me to run Valvoline 10W-30 conventional oil for the break-in and no synthetics until 5000 miles so that the rings will seat properly.  I am to disable the fuel pump for at least twenty seconds and pre-lube the engine through cranking it - they have no worries about wiping the assembly lube off of the internal spinning masses.  

  My trouble with all of this??  It's raining cats and dogs here and I won't be able to drop the engine off into the space where the Catalina is getting worked on. The workspace is in a detached building and with the rain, the ground is soft.  This is Louisiana and even when its not raining, you can walk across the yard wearing golf shoes and hit water . . . . almost.  I have the very elusive and mysterious (and also very tasty) Louisiana Long-Tailed Water Dogs within a mile of my house.

   So my wife's car will get kicked out of its garage space until things dry out enough for me to move the engine.  

Rick

20240501_163700.jpg

20240501_163844.jpg

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Hello,

   No pictures with this post.  I spent most of my time tonight cutting down the LS truck motor windage tray in two major areas so that the Holley 302-5 oil pan and oil pickup tube would fit. Overall, the tray is now likely a third smaller than stock but the pan can bolt up now without hitting anything inside the crankcase.  

  I also spent a lot of time making sure the pickup tube flange and o-ring got fitted correctly to the input port of the oil pump.  It can't go in slanted or there is a great possibility that the pump will suck air rather than oil or possibly a mix of the two.   Probably this coming weekend and with the engine still out, I will attach an Autometer oil pressure gauge to the motor, put on an oil filter and put six quarts in.  And then grab a battery and crank this motor to circulate a little oil.  With a good battery vigorously cranking the motor, I hope to see 30-35 PSI on the Autometer gauge.  This will tell me that all is well with the oil pan pickup tube o-ring.

Rick  

 

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