What do you have to weld with?  Is there enough room to get your handle in there and weld both sides of a nut?  Check these u clip N bolt combos. Can't imagine bolt is bigger than 9/16.  Cut a 1 in hole slip in clip, bend metal back....weld from outside. Hinge covers everything, bolt N washer to finish.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=9%2f16+bolt+and+larger+u+nut+clip+fastener&qpvt=9%2f16+bolt+and+larger+u+nut+clip+fastner&form=IGRE&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle

Edited March 11, 20224 yr by JUSTA6

yip mate ! what ever way is the easiest to get a nut in behind that fire wall... if i was you i would weld a nut onto a bit of flat plate say 2inch x 2 inch drill 4x 1/4 inch holes through the fire wall around the mounting hole for the hinge bolt and cut your hole-slip the flat plate with nut on it in .... bolt it up tight and plug weld the 4 holes. job done

that way you have strength and it wont flex on ya 👍 

wrong way... question.. its the top nut that is gone aye?

Wow, ok that would work bro. I didn't want to cut a big "out of place" hole. But I hadn't thought about the hinge covering it. Yeah man, sounds like a plan. As far as welding it, I'm not allowed to weld any more. I've got a buddy that I was going to have do the welding but honestly, he's not very good. Thats why I was going to hide it behind the fender after grinding it all down. Thanks bro

I gotcha kiwi, and yes sir, it's the top nut that's gone bro.

mate i copied and pasted one of your pictures 

 

Yes, that's a glow rod I used in the bolt hole when I was trying to figure out if I could get to it from the inside. But that is the hole where the nut is missing

cut a slot in that top shelf above the missing nut .... slip a plate with nut in there and bolt it up, if you cant weld, drill and put 4 rivets in to hold the plate in place, but plug weld would be best if you can find a mate who can weld as you still need to reweld up the slot in the top section 

with the fender off its going to much easier mate

hay!!! looks like your had a sunny day there today !!... must be spring!!

mate!! wish i lived closer or i could come and sort that for you in a hour...... oh and a box of beer!!

There both really great ideas guys, thank you. We're expecting snow tomorrow so it may be a couple of days but I'll let you know what happens. My plan is to get this done, figure out how to line up the nose on the grill and then start the body and paint work!

from that picture you got with your phone you can see how flimsy the welds are on those nuts!!... 4 small welds on the corners of the nut and thats it!!!

50 plus years and a bit of rust and they can snap clean off!! what a pita !! 

yes and that hood alignment is key to the WHOLE front end mate !!

been there done that!!!

Yeah and that's exactly what happened, there one day and gone the next. 

So I thought about what yall said and came up with this idea. I cut a piece of 1/8" sheet metal, it's about 1.5" tall by 2.5" wide.  I was able to tape it to a glow rod and slide it in far enough to mark it, remove it and drill it. I then feed a string back to where I slide the plate in and slipped it in the hole and tied it to the glow rod. Then I was able to slide the plate in place and pull it tight against the fire wall. I cleaned up the plate and dropped it and the nut off at my buddies to get welded. Hopefully I can get it back Monday or Tuesday. Once I get it back and slid into place, I figure I could drill a couple of small hopes to rivet or have welded up to attach the plate. 

Well done mate ! Bloody clever work 👍

see there’s more than one way to skin a cat 🍻

Ingenious - the non negoitable trait that every car restorer has to have. Well done.

Soooo I'm still waiting to get that plate back with the nut welded on. But I did get the rest of the exhaust figured out and I'm waiting on the new hangers to get here and that's finished. I also started removing the chrome today which scares the hell out of me. Hopefully I can get the rest removed and start on the body work.

 

Edited March 17, 20224 yr by Wrongway

ah mate!!! its spring where you are!! i can see the sunny day 

enjoy your work bud

Yeah it's in the 60s this week and getting warmer. Thats why I'm pushing to get the body work started while it's cool. I really don't want to be sitting outside with a long board sanding in 95 degree temps. I know it's backwards to do the body and paint and then finish the rest of the mechanical but hey, this is Wrongway's corner!  Truth be told, after 4yrs of working on her off and on when I felt good and money would allow I'm ready to see her in color ya know?

2 hours ago, Wrongway said:

Yeah it's in the 60s this week and getting warmer. Thats why I'm pushing to get the body work started while it's cool. I really don't want to be sitting outside with a long board sanding in 95 degree temps. I know it's backwards to do the body and paint and then finish the rest of the mechanical but hey, this is Wrongway's corner!  Truth be told, after 4yrs of working on her off and on when I felt good and money would allow I'm ready to see her in color ya know?

good for you mate 

 what colour you thinking ???

Wrongway, I see that your exhaust exits through the rear bumper. Is that the factory setup? It looks really neat & tidy. You've got the same tips as I chose for mine - they really suit. You also have the same 'old & reddish' paint that mine has too.

The color started out as magnetic, but I tweaked the recipe to give it darker flop. Looks like this in the sun. The base has crushed silver dollar, coarse and fine aluminum in it. I wanted more sparkle the I can get from pearl but more subtle than metal flake this time. In the shade or when it's dark the flop looks black.

No Fitzy, coming out the bumper is not factory. In fact, those holes are where the reverse lights should be. I looked all over for a replacement set of lights a couldn't find them. I finely found a set after deciding I liked the pipes in the bumper. They wanted $650 for the used set on ebay. For that price I guess they can keep the lights and I'll keep my pipes in the bumper. Glad you like it, I think It looks pretty cool.

I had no idea how much chrome or stainless was on this car! It doesn't look like a lot but oh man. Even the seals that go above the windows in the doors sit in stainless tracks. In case I haven't mention this, I HATE REMOVING CHROME! I suck at it! But... so far so good. I've taken of the rear windshield chrome, both doors except on the glass, the lower pieces on the sides, head light bezels well justa about all of it except the front windshield top and sides, the chrome attached to the side glass and the badging.

Does anybody know how the remove the chrome on the front windshield top and sides and the chrome attached to the side glass? I didn't get pics today but I'll get yall some tomorrow if the rain holds off.

Of course - I have similar reverse lights. I'm surprised you couldn't make a later set work: Ames has them for my car and I put new lenses in to keep the Inspecror happy. Anyway, your solution is great - looks really good. Are you going to dream up a solution for your reversing lights?

I'm still not sure if I need amber rear indicators to satisfy rego requirements. My 1965 lenses provide NO such provision and I recall laying in bed early one morning trying to think of a temporary solution. I thought about a pair of small amber LED strips that I could velcro somewhere near the lights and just run the wires thru the trunk opening, just until the car passes. I'm hoping I don't need to, obviously. 

I pulled both screens out ages ago whilst the car was getting it's rust fixed up. The surrounds are held in place with a myriad of complicated looking little clips. You'll need to slide one longitudinal piece out of it's little niche in it's partner piece - I used a screwdriver & hammer (the tools of the artisan) and then you'll see how the clips work. If it's anything like mine, they'll be rusted in place and will probably disintegrate as you try and pull the chrome off carefully. I hate to admit this but when it came to screen installation time, I simply used endless tubes of weathersealing compound and just glued the screens and then the trim on top. Just gotta hope I never have to replace either bits of glass!

Having said all that, your screens might be held in situ with a perimeter thick rubber seal. In that case, I'm not sure if the clips are the same system as mine. Good luck, man. I know what you mean - chrome trim, once affixed at the factory should stay where it is.

Thats a good solution bro. I can't get over everything you're going thru justa get your car legal. That's crazy and were pulling for you brother. 

No, I haven't thought up a solution let. Right now the current thought is, Ok self, I like the pipes in the bumper. I only drive maybe 5 miles a week now. Rarely ever at night. F%^k it, who needs to back up anyways!

Yeah bro It looked like a seal, and I think I am going to have to remove the rear windshield. Looks like it leaked somewhere and ruined my brand new package tray and passenger sail panel.

As you would be aware, all fullsize GM hardtops rust where the rear screen abuts the sheetmetal, so be prepared to be horrified by what could be lurking under there. It's good insurance to pull the glass no matter what and that big rubber seal should make it easy to reinstall the screen.  Like I said - good luck with the chrome trim. Here is a screenshot of page 104 of the current Ames catalogue. For anyone else who's interested, you can download it for free. I keep it on my tablet and use it to reference parts and check prices.

I love that you don't reverse. If anyone's stupid enough to stand behind you as you're reversing, they deserve what they get.

Thanks Fitzy, I thought about it all night and decided I needed to remove both. Thats almost as scary as pulling chrome. I've replaced and installed a number of front and rear windshields on old F100s. But never a rear windshield with a curve like this.

Here's the pics of where the dechroming was at yesterday. I snapped a couple pics today before the rain moved in.

 

 

Wow - you're really taking everything off. I see a coupla little rust spots in each lower corner of your rear screen aperture. Prepare yourself!

Your front screen trim looks identical to mine. Let us know how many of those little clips fall apart as you remove the trim! Apart from those complex clips, the factory also screwed in little studs that anchor something in (I forget now.) I just got rid of everything. What astounded me was the depth of engineering that went into making that trim sit in place perfectly but also (in a perfect world) allowed it to be removed when necessary. As I was 'glueing' my trim back in place I remember wondering how many restorers bother to go the factory route and use fresh clips to retain the trim?

Also, I searched high & low for a replacement for the panel that sits between the rear screen and trunk lid but no dice. The fellow who did my rust repairs fabricated one from scratch and I recall him saying that it was extremely difficult to replicate due to the fact it curves in 2 planes - that is, across the car and also up to the screen aperture. Good luck!