2 hours ago, Maxwell said:

I know. It's just remembering to always check simple things then jump to conclusions. 

Well then to just to conclusions 

Welcome to the club.

I'm now just playing a waiting game. Gonna see about using all the change I have to get a little more fuel. Keep her from running dry and sitting again. 

I have a question. Anyone know where I could get an rpm insert for where my clock is. I have a custom radio for the clock and am more interested in seeing the RPM. 

I don't think Pontiac made an in-dash tach option for the Bonneville/Catalina/Grandville platform for 73 and up.

I would probably buy a reproduction Sun tach and mount it to the steering column in a position over the clock.

I have a few ideas. Looking at it the clock can come out as a separate part. I am wondering if I can just insert a 2.5in tach into it and wire it up. Cause I really hate how tacky a column mounted rpm gauge looks. 

This would require removing the entire cluster from the dash (it's a lot of work). The clock can be removed but then you will have to cut/fab the mounting of your 2.5" tach to fit in the same location the air core clock use to fit in, run the electrical to, etc. It also means you will probably never be able to re-install the old clock when you go to sell the car (assuming you care about these things).

I agree that the steering column mounted tach are "tacky" looking (no pun intended) but they are quick and easy. You could also mount the tach on top of the dash as well. Again, not "factory" looking but functional.

Or you could install a hood tach.....

Edited June 21, 20223 yr by Frosty

The clock doesn't work and I don't think it's that bad of a process. It's something I may look into 

Ok. So I'm having to do ghetto methods because I can't patch it properly. I'm using the little bit of steel stick jb weld for some holes cause I have had some success. What y'all think I should use cause I really can't get the window out myself and have no money or way to afford a shop. And I don't know anyone willing to come help me yank a window and do proper bodywork. 

I hate doing this to a classic car but I have no money or materials to fix it properly right now. And I doubt anyone on the forums would go "let me come help so it's done properly." And I'm not asking anyone to. Everything has been slow. Can't get the exhaust done, got to deal with holes and repairs. I've not had anyone donate to the GoFundMe for the car other than my one friend that did. 

I'm being given some funds to fix the entire exhaust issue. Anyone know where I could get some headers, decent ish mufflers that have a good sound but aren't droning. And something to clear the axle

 

I'm  looking for noise like that. Not quiet but not racecar level loud. 

I like both but can't have both without making it complicated. 

Question. From factory would I have round port or d port heads? Am looking at headers.

Can someone decipher these?

Max, you have 4X heads....you can Google image the intake and exhaust ports yourself with that information.

Another thought I had was reaching out to your local high school or community college auto tech programs to see if they would be willing to do the repair work for you (and other work)? I am not sure how each institution does things like this, if you have to pay for materials or not. Still perhaps letting "students" do the work could be a cheaper alternative. Of course this means they have to have the car for a period of time as well.

 

As for headers, I think you may be a tad out of luck. A lot of the header manufacturers have discontinued header production for the full size cars. A-body and F-body demand is about all they produce these days for Pontiacs, sad to say. That said, the Ram Air Restoration reproduction exhaust manifolds are the closest thing to a factory header and flow very well. I have a set on Lucy. They are better than any log style manifold you may have. These are expensive as a good set of headers, so budget accordingly.

As for mufflers you really have your choice. I have a Pypes system on Lucy. Walker Exhaust has stock and a performance line of muffler systems. Some guys like Dynaflow, Borla, Magnaflow, etc. It is what sound you like and what you can afford. Personally, I like near stock quiet since I like to be able to hear the radio over the exhaust.

 

Could you send a link for the exhaust manifolds? I'll look into those. Also would these fit at all? https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30065/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwwdWVBhA4EiwAjcYJEAyYn7iUC2M0xraNVACd05oyr31UbykfGU0zmCv9CPlT_rbhyQjAcxoCtIIQAvD_BwE

Or are they out of the question? Also mind sharing a clip of what Lucy sounds like 

After climbing in the dark as I just peeked here. I've got 4x 4h d port heads. Not sure what exhaust options I've got. May just throw the factory one on just for now just to have it back on the ground. 

Factory exhaust that is. 

You might be able to use/ get "Shorty" style headers for a Pontiac engine...As long as where they Dump out..Is close to the same area as the stock/factory exhaust manifolds dump location...They wouldn't have near the inherent fitment/clearance issues as long tube headers would...And with little modification...You could run the head pipes probably really close to the factory location...No real power gain... But would sound good with what ever mufflers you decide too use... 

One other thing...Would also highly suggest that you don't go overboard with the exhaust pipe diameter....Too large an exhaust pipe/Header tube diameter can/will Kill the low end torque Output...

Edited June 25, 20223 yr by TWO LANE BLACK TOP

I'm after a 2.5 in preferred exhaust diameter. Max 3 but the mufflers I have liked are 2.5in. also what would you recommend for a set of shorty headers. If there's no long tubes that'd fit 

I did notice that it may be a bit of a fun time finding something that fits with the oil filter right there. 

I think I found a set that would fit. Headman 28164 street rod block hugger tork-step headers for Pontiac 

https://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/28164/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjw5NqVBhAjEiwAeCa97cUYvkWxGuq_7XZsAISZJEt1mA3mgiY_E3LrCdOUiQowToP2EP9knxoC9PkQAvD_BwE

I think that should fit in my space.

Ram Air Restoration website

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/

Like I said, they ain't cheap but they are a factory style header and flow better than a log header if you can't find anything else.

Edited June 25, 20223 yr by Frosty

I think I'd rather try the shorty headers vs them. Nothing is specific. But I did measure and from everything I measured it should fit. Otherwise I may just make some custom stuff. Or find a diy header kit to make my own and find a shop

Nothing wrong with that approach at all. After all, it's your money and your car.

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

Ram Air Restoration website

https://www.ramairrestoration.com/

Like I said, they ain't cheap but they are a factory style header and flow better than a log header if you can't find anything else.

and very nice tight fit, headers will cause you nothing but its called kiss !

Most of those logs go out the very back at an angle. I'd use them if it wasn't for the fact that that dump angle.... Points right at my oil filter. 

I fixed the factory exhaust for now. Was tired of dealing with it. I'll get some more welding on it when I can get it higher up in the air. Am turning towards getting dash lights and stuff working. Found my issue and the replacement part. Couldn't get the speedometer cable off and didn't wanna break it. How does it come off. I did get some LED bulbs but they didn't work for some reason. 

The speedo cable has a release tab on the gauge/cluster. The picture below is from a GTO but it highlights what you are looking for. You will probably have to do this by feel. The speedometer cable plugs into the back of the speedometer. The cable is held in place by this semi-circular tab. You need to push that tab forward (towards the driver) and pull the cable towards the firewall at this same time and it will release. It's a pain in the butt job lying on your back with your hand up in the dash, ask me how I know....

As for your LEDs, do yourself a favor. Bench test them. I had the same problem on a couple LEDS with Lucy. In a couple of cases, the LEDs were bad out of the box. In one case, using the factory twist plug, having it 180 degrees out made the difference between it working and not working. So bench test the bulb before you insert it into the twist plug and then bench test it again once it is in the twist plug.