Frosty

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqn7vXeVCLE 2 legged dear mostly.

Styling wise, as I have said before, it was an angry dumpster on wheels. However, my wife and mother-in-law both owned one and they absolutely loved it. Most Aztek owners I've met are extremely loyal to it. It rides very well and it is very functional for the minivan/SUV/CUVsoccer mom crowd.

I think it was badged as either the Passport Optima or Asuna SE/GT in Canunckistan.

I agree.

I agree with Pro. The conversion to a 4bbl will require a new intake manifold. Again since you are keeping things relatively stock, a used stock manifold are relatively cheap on eBay and Craigslist. Obviously if you live in a state with emissions compliance testing, then you will need a manifold that maintain your working EGR valve.

The Polaris Slingshot is a commercially available vehicle and as such, the federal government classifies it as a motorcycle. With this classification and the designation of a side-by-side, there is no requirement for airbags, climate controls, or other creature comforts. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a13990/polaris-slingshot-three-wheeler/

Same people who bought a Pontiac built by Daewoo. Remember the '90s Lemans? Sadly, it came damn close to being the Pontiac version of the Yugo. The thing was heavily recalled.

The idea of the heat cross over is to help quickly atomize the fuel better in cold weather climates as it helps warm up the fuel in the carburetor quickly. Guys typically remove or seal up the exhaust heat crossover in order to keep the fuel cooler - mainly for racing purposes since you don't want to boil the fuel in hot/racing applications. Since you plan to drive this car on the street, I would leave it alone. Caution when tapping and installing the oil gallery plugs. You don't want to run them in too far because then you will restrict oil flow. You said something that has me a little worried about your goals. You want to make over 300 lb-ft of torque with this motor. I hope you mean at the flywheel and not at the rear wheels since this car was rated at only 170 HP from the factory to begin with (a 400 with a 2 bbl). Yes, Pontiac engines are torque monsters and its relatively easy to achieve this goal (both at the flywheel and the rear tires), but as Pro said, an engine is an air pump. So it has to be able to breath in and out well in order to produce better HP and torque numbers. So port matching will be great but it won't be that noticeable of a difference if it is still breathing through a proverbial straw, like the stock 2bbl and factory exhaust system. I am suggesting that you do some more homework and when you tear down your engine that you examine: 1. the catalytic converter - most like it is the old pellet style - it may restrict flow - consider replacing it with a more free flowing cat - assuming that there is money in the budget 2. the stock carb - there are more performance oriented / higher cfm rated 2 and 4 bbl carbs on the market - research the pros and cons over the stock Rochester 3. more performance oriented muffler (still use a relatively quiet one but a little more aggressive sounding and free flowing) 4. flush and fill the transmission and replace the transmission filter - consider using a quality synthetic transmission oil to help reduce friction 5. flush and fill the rear diff - again consider using synthetic gear lube to help reduce friction.

Agreed. Spend some quality time with the garden hose and a mild detergent washing out all the fire extinguisher powder out of the whole engine compartment. You definitely don't want it to find its way into the engine, tranny or any other moving parts. Its not too good for electrical contacts either. You should be able to get a used fuse box for the GP from a reputable auto salvage yard that doesn't dismantle everything with a sawsall. I would replace everything in the fuse panel with new pieces too due to the fire extinguisher dust or the heat of the fire. Assume everything in there has been compromised in some way. Even if they still work, I would expect the useful life of the fuse or relay to have been shortened significantly. In my opinion, its worth replacing everything to have that peace of mind.

True. Saw another convertible Sonoma pikcup over the weekend come to think of it. notallthere saw it too.

It just proves that it can be done....not that it should be done....on a regular basis. Kind of like a TV show host we know.

True that.

You just have to enough zeroes on the check, a power washer, a heavy duty shop-vac, and a haz mat team.

More real backyard engineering, hard work, and results in less time than a certain Power Wagon we know of too.

Hi Steve Your Summit cam choice is a fairly decent one and it should work rather well. I do have some questions for you though. What are your goals with this motor besides freshing it up a bit? Are you going to replace the stock 2bbl with a 4bbl? If so, what manifold are you going to run? Port matching always is a good thing to improve air flow in and out. Are you going to improve the exhaust system (headers/factory high flow exhaust manifolds)? Cat back exhaust? High flow cat? High volume, high pressure or stock replacement oil pump? I ask since all these things can have an impact on your choice of camshaft profiles. Also have you considered a hydraulic roller cam over the flat tappet design? A hydraulic roller can give you a little more aggressive profile but its a little more expensive. All this comes down to choices and your wallet.

That's great news. Where in Michigan is this guy located? Perhaps JUSTA, notallthere, Indymanjoe, or I have heard of him.

Same answer to the old joke "My dog has no nose! How does he smell?" Awful!

Wow! Look at the crap all over that pretty new driveway! I hope the missus doesn't get mad at you again! Looks real good buddy! Great work.

I took Lucy to a 4th of July parade, then later that night I had to run to Menards and get a Tiki torch and fuel for an evening firepit get together with the neighbors.

I think this is a good look for you Pro !

June 30, 1953, this day in automotive history: the first production Corvette is built at the General Motors facility in Flint, Michigan. Tony Kleiber, a worker on the assembly line, is given the privilege of driving the now-historic car off the line. Harley J. Earl, the man behind the Corvette, got his start in his father´s business, Earl Automobile Works, designing custom auto bodies for Hollywood movie stars such as Fatty Arbuckle. BTW - The NCM is selling bricks from this Flint MI plant, as the building was torn down several years ago. You can purchase them for $25.00 a piece and you get a letter of authenticity.

Pro, are you looking for pictures of this particular Studebaker Hawk resto-mod, or are you looking for pictures of any good looking Studebaker Hawk, Silver Hawk, or Golden Hawk?

I agree with you based on the stock rear tail lights were all red and white for the U.S. in 1973. I agree with you that it is a '73 Havoc since all other Dela 88s have tail lights at the ends - stacked one on top of the other. Amber lighting came in later in the decade. Europe and the US had differently lighting standards. So to Chaos point, I think this car was probably built for export given the rear tail lights. Here is a picture of a stock US-based '73 Olds Delta 88 I found on the Internet. It definitely does not have the amber lights.

Looks like a great show stratman. I hope you have a great time in Richmond. I am sure Ken won't be put out. He's been telling me about an Oldsmobile project of his but I've not seen any pictures either. I will have to call him about it this weekend. We have a similar car show around the same time that is put on by a local car dealer - limited to Pontiacs, Buicks and GMCs. The neat thing about this show is it is close to our local National Parts Depot outlet. So I can make a parts run and a car show in the same day!!!! http://www.sellersgm.com/CarShow