Frosty

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sg-vgGuTD8A

I like the Ponty Mython expression. I am going to have to remember that one. Thanks for sharing your story with us.

Brainfart is a good term there buddy. A Rally Vibe is one thing, its based around harden parts using the stock geometry and drivetrain for the most part. They don't do 2-4" body lifts to go rally racing. I know someone in Canuckistan with a Vibe we can test it out on too. You are looking at a picture one there sunshine. Now mail JUSTA your buck and quarter. That was taken at the Golling Buick-GMC charity car show in September - either last year or the year before. Back to bored001's topic though, I think doing a full lift kit will require custom fabrication.

This is a tough one. I am not aware of any commercially available lift kits for Torrent/Equinox/Vue/Terrain platform. That being the case, I think you will need to have a custom fabricated kit made for you, which will be expensive or perhaps its not worth doing if its too expensive. The Torrent and its sister vehicles are not considered an off road vehicle due to its FWD/unibody architecture (albeit yours is the AWD variant of the FWD). For that reason alone, I doubt that any lift kit or off-road company is willing to invest in developing parts/kits for these vehicles. For the sake of oversimplifying the various engineering tasks that have to be overcome, the essences of the lift kit is to re-position the suspension and steering mounts to accomplish the lift and not put anything in a bad bind or angle that will lead to premature wear. Also, if it is intended for off-road use, the hardware supplied is often beefier than stock to handle the added punishment the vehicle is expected to see off-road between the trail obstacles and beefier wheels and tires guys usually run off-road. These lift kits work well with today's modern trucks that are based on full-frame/RWD architecture (including 4WD/AWD vehciles) and independent front and rear suspensions. However, with the Torrent, lifting the suspension could put the front half shafts/CV joints into a bad angle and cause them to wear out prematurely. Also, given the AWD varant of your vehicle, then the driveshaft angle to the rear drive has to be considered to make sure this is not put it into a bind or lead to pre-mature wear on the U-joints. About the only way to accomplish this would be to lift the entire drivetrain 2 or more inches away from the body to keep the stock suspension geometry in place (relative to one another). Once you head down that road, you will encounter a number of things you will need to overcome - electrical, mechanical, steering re-location, etc. In my opinion, you should talk to a reputable custom car fabricator and discuss it. Also, keep searching the Internet - perhaps someone is doing this sort of thing on a limited basis with this platform. This is not an impossible project, just an expensive one. The question you will have to answer is how much can you afford?

OK I do understand what he is saying. The bolt may either have originally (or may have developed over time) an elongated bolt hole. Loosing the nut/bolt and pushing it all the forward to take out any slack and then re-tightening the nut/bolt is what he is referring to. This is found underneath the car, near the firewall.

Heretic !!!

Kevin Brett's '91 Trans Am convertible

While I was at the NCM, I ordered two commemorative bricks for my father, one for the museum and one for him. The bricks were going to take 6-8 weeks to be made but they came in sooner than expected. I a got a letter from the NCM just before Father's Days that the brick had been installed at the NCM. I was able to give him the brick for Father's Day too. The museum brick is located in section HEX 3L of the Corvette Boulevard, the inside walkway lining the new addition in the NCM. This has the C4 logo on the brick - for obvious reasons. My dad and his team were responsible for the liquid crystal display (LCD) instrument cluster that was installed in the C4 Corvette starting in 1984. He worked at AC Spark Plug division, which later became part of Delco Electronics after GM purchased Hughes Aircraft.

Sounds like a deal. Which "hood" are you in?

Like Hell you are!

For my '72 Lemans, that was absolutely the case. I suspect that will be the same thing with you. Getting the radio, cluster and the rest makes access to all the other bolts a whole lot easier too. Also, it gives you a chance to look at things and detail them out. - especially any burned or dim out bulbs in the cluster.

That's a great story Rick.

I have not forgotten about you Darth, I need to find some time to review my shop manual regarding your question.

If your '67 is anything like my '72, it helps to remove everything else first, the instrument cluster, radio, heater/AC ducts/controls, glove box, etc. If you can remove the front seats and console, so much the better, but that is not entirely necessary, but it does make it easy to work on your back. All you want is a basic shell of the dash in order to get the mounting screws to release the pad from the the metal dash frame. I would highly recommend getting a GM/Pontiac shop manual for your car with the assembly/dis assembly procedures and illustration.

Very good precautions there Rick. Make sure you've got some good ventilation from the aerosol spray too. Again, having done my own trunk before, I know what a pain this job is. Indymanjoe recently did his trunk on his Lemans as well. This is a time consuming process and you need to give the the paint plenty of time harden up after you've applied the last coat of clear. JUSTA doing my job stratman! JUSTA doing my job! Having lots of reference books helps a ton too.

Yes!!!! I am soooo in !!!!

Check the directions on the Dupli-color can. I believe it also calls for a clear coat. Make sure you allow a proper amount of drying time between coats too. Proper metal prep is key too. Black/Aqua is the correct trunk color too.

If I come to visit which Vette do I get to drive?

What? No NCM delivery? What a lucky grandson! When does he get it 6 Shooter?

Welcome to FP Patriot !!!! Where in Colorado are you from? I see mountains in your picture so I suspect you are not east of Denver.

Sounds like your jealous JUSTA! So that's what your car would look like with one - minus the Cragars of course. Welcome to FP Rick !!!! You have a goregous GTO !

I shouldn't be surprised given the two brothers that own Inline are restoration fanatics. They own a pair of killer, perfectly correct straight black '69 GTO Judge and an Olds blue/white 442 W-30 convertible.

The Catalinas are the less expensive version of the Bonneville. They were called the Parisienne / Laurentian respectively in Canada. The Ventura became its own model again in 1966 that was another variant of the Catalina/Bonneville. Also too, some of the larger sheet metal might be sharable with the Grand Prix of the same model year. All were 122" wheel base cars. There are plenty of 389/400/455 engines out there that can be re-built to power your potential ride. There is plenty of aftermarket support for these motors. You will need to purchase a Buick-Oldsmobile-Pontiac bolt-pattern 350/400 Turbo transmission to mount to a Pontiac engine. A Chevy bolt pattern won't work. I would agree with JUSTA6, inspect the trunk, rockers, quarter panels, as well as rear and front windsheild sills.

I would agree with JUSTA on Inline Tube. They are here in Shelby Township Michigan - made in the good ol' US of A. I've been to their facility before. They made a custom length emergency brake cable for me when I converted Lucy from a 350TH to a 400TH tranny over 10 years ago. I plan to eventually replace all the hard lines on Lucy with their stuff (tranny, fuel, and brake lines). The brake sensor is usually at the master cylinder so it is sensing either a loss of line pressure or a low fluid level. Obviously its becoming a safety issue. BTW - Inline tube does carry a lot of brake hardware too. Definitely check them out.

Havoc, I would suggesting get a hold of a lot of cardboard and placing it under the Phoenix, jacking it up, putting the car up on jack stands, fill up the brake reservoir with fluid and pump the brakes (with or without the engine on).The idea behind all the cardboard is to see where she is leaking. If you are truly loosing fluid, the fresh fluid on the cardboard will tell you where to look. Since you thought you replaced many or all of the hard lines (I will assume those are not leaking for the moment), I will hazard to guess you have one or more leaking leaking wheel cylinders/brake caliper,or a leak at the proportioning valve or master cylinder/. I would also inspect the rubber lines between the front two disc brakes calipers and the front end and the rubber line on the rear diff. They could be swelling/cracking and leaking too. Even if they are just swelling and not leaking, they contribute to a mushy pedal and will eventually fail. As for the rust problem, yes, you need to cut out the rusty sections down to good metal and weld in matching gauge patch panel(s), and do all the neccesary rust/metal prep and primer/inhibiter/paint/bedliner stuff. It's a messy, time consuming job. Are there Nova inner fender well panels you can buy and cut up for this job? I ask simply because I have not bothered to look online yet. Otherwise you can fab your own from the correct gauge sheet metal.