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GoatBoy

New Guy with 2005 Pontiac GTO.

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Hi,


In 2009 I purchased a GTO from my sister that she ordered new.


It has 24,400 miles. Right now I have it disassembled and I am installing a 1900 tvs , blower cam and getting the heads ported along with all the new parts that goes along with the build. I have already done all poly bushings , Konis and King hd springs , headers and a Gforce 9inch rear.


Tim


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Goddamn that's nice. What else you got goin on with her?

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Once I get the motor put back together I am going to make a suede intake out of fiberglass and fiberglass it to my radiator cover ( like a duo speed ) and switch to an ls3 maf before I take it to get tuned. Than before spring make a lip for the front.

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:welcomeFP:



That'll be one fine Goat!


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Nice are you doing the fabrication yourself or are you hiring out? Are you going to keep the original engine? Interior mods?

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Thanks Ringo64


gandhi_2006


I will do all the work except for the tune.


Yes I will keep the original LS2 . I love it.


I have worked with fiberglass alot and get great results.


I have made a pillar pod (which I still need to cover with headliner to match the interior. )


and added a gauge to the gauge cluster ( black one. )out of fiberglass and that added 4 gauges.


I also have a roll bar that I will weld up and modify.


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welcome to FP! thats nice GTO and great work. power goals?


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:welcomeFP:



Welcome to FP - I am quite impressed on what you are doing and plan to do.



I have one question. So are you planning on going fast in a straight line with it or going fast in an autocross/roundy-round circuit with it?



Lastly, one observation, I noticed that you didn't mention any sort of brake upgrade. Typically adding "go" power should also include adding some sort of upgraded "whow" power.


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That's cool you do the fiberglass work yourself I've never tried it. As far as a tune are you planning on tuning it on a dyno or go with a shelf tune like overkill?

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Hi Ghost


and thanks , I just ordered my cam from my tuner today and my goal is anywhere between 500 and 600 and I will be cool with what ever it is.



Hi Frosty


My plans are auto x and drag --some just for fun.


That is my goal with the car just to make it as close to the way I want it and have major fun. I have been working on the car little by little since I purchased it . One of the first things I did was to upgrade the rotors and pads and fluid to help slow it down for what was to come. I have been purchasing parts for 5 years and now it will all come together and most purchases of my parts did not hurt so much because I only purchased them when I ran up on a good deal. Like the G-force 9 inch I purchased that used and it came with a warranty to the second owner for 2 years from the original date of purchase . I had 1 year of that warranty left and G-force warranted all the things I found wrong with it. I can't say enough good things about G-force they went above and beyond what they could have.



Hi gandhi_2006


I found fiberglass really easy to work with. I started when I was a teenager working on my car making speaker enclosures with a book from the library and I made some nice things and cheaply. I use it when ever I can , even at work on my job saving them some cash. Just read up and youtube it and you will be surprised with what you can do with a little practice.


My tuner has a dyno at his shop and he will dyno tune the car and he is GOOD , he has been in business for years and I have never heard anything but positive things from the different clubs who use him.


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GoatBoy - looking good. I am glad you did some brake work. One last safety suggestion - a fire extinguisher - somewhere close to you - say on the passenger side of the console, within arms reach. I suspect that some racing sanctioning bodies require it too. Check the rule books for any racing associations you plan to run in.



I can't wait to see this Goat run.


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Thanks Frosty , I will need to get one or two of them for sure.


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Glad I can help. Safety is a must these days. Check the rule books. They might even state how and/or where the extinguisher(s) have to be mounted.


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When adding the rollbar, do you have to add sub frame connectors? Now's the time to look into that. Great lookin build. :dancingpontiac:


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Thanks JUSTA6


I am going to modify the 8 point roll bar and install it now as a 4 point but it will be bolted in for now so I can get it out of the way next winter.


My plans are to mini tub the car later to get more rubber under it and at that point I will weld in the bar and you won't know it was ever bolted in.


I need to have the car ready before spring gets here for car shows.


I am the only one working on the car and with the limited time I have to install everything and everything I need to get done before it is tuned ( making the over the radiator intake after everything is installed) . The mini tub and sending out the rear control arms to be modified will most likely be done next winter.


In my previous job I worked 6 years as a welder fabricator and I will still send the rear control arms to G-force to have them use their jig and get it right the first time.


As I have gotten older I know when to say I really need to pay to have this part done by someone who knows more about this part than I do.


But as always to save money the mini tub will be done by me.


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any future plans to working on an Ecotec? and visiting Vegas? :D


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Thanks JUSTA6

I am going to modify the 8 point roll bar and install it now as a 4 point but it will be bolted in for now so I can get it out of the way next winter.

My plans are to mini tub the car later to get more rubber under it and at that point I will weld in the bar and you won't know it was ever bolted in.

I need to have the car ready before spring gets here for car shows.

I am the only one working on the car and with the limited time I have to install everything and everything I need to get done before it is tuned ( making the over the radiator intake after everything is installed) . The mini tub and sending out the rear control arms to be modified will most likely be done next winter.

In my previous job I worked 6 years as a welder fabricator and I will still send the rear control arms to G-force to have them use their jig and get it right the first time.

As I have gotten older I know when to say I really need to pay to have this part done by someone who knows more about this part than I do.

But as always to save money the mini tub will be done by me.

Do NOT mention the rollbar or show pictures to you Insurance agent. You'll be surprised that most Ins comps won't even touch your car with a bar in it. I'm forced to pay almost 3X the amount on a 6 mo policy for my Sunbird, as I do for an entire year on my GTO. Justa....heads up.

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Hi Ghost, I have never been to Vegas but I had an HHR SS with an Ecotec, I really liked it and it was fun to drive.



Hi JUSTA6, That is something I did not know..


Now I am thinking about Just making it a bolt in bar in case I need to get it out...


A bolt in is better than no roll bar.


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Check your sanctioning body rules first GoatBoy. A bolt-in cage may not be acceptable to some racing groups for fear that the bolts will shear in a roll over. While I agree with JUSTA on the price of insurance, a bolt-in cage has the potential to limit the sanction groups or classes of races you can run in. Just saying....do your homework and then make you decision of cost vs. benefit.


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Hi Ghost, I have never been to Vegas but I had an HHR SS with an Ecotec, I really liked it and it was fun to drive.

so, two birds one stone. :D and what happened to the HHR?

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Hey Ghost,


Just saw your question , I have been very busy with work and the cold weather just means more hours for me. And that does not leave much time for the computer or working on my car and that sucks.


Here are some pictures ( before I washed it ) of the HHR the day before I sold it.


We really had fun in it as it was a blast to drive. I purchased it new and it had 39,000 miles on it when I sold it.


I just needed a full size truck and that is the only reason I sold it.


But I really like my truck and now I have something else to make a couple of custom things for.


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That's probably the only HHR that I've seen that I liked


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that was a nice looking HHR SS.


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Goatboy - Most sanctioning bodies want your roll cage to be welded and the usual minimum is 4 point. Also, on fire extinguishers they have to me mounted and not with the thin sheet metal mounts. Ridged mounts only. Also, if you use a fire system or bottles like I do. They need to be layed down and the nozzle or head of fire bottle pointing inward or out ward so that it can use the contents properly. Never point it towards the front or rear of vehicle since force of acceleration or breaking will cause contents not to disperse properly. Before you install your roll cage and this is just a strong suggestion install strut supports and weld in sub frame connectors which will stiffen your chasis before you put roll cage in. Make sure to level car frame before installing sub frame connector. Because if you weld or bolt the roll cage in (hopefully weld) it can and will tweak your frame if it is not true then you alignment could be a bear to adjust and cornering a pain.



Great looking car and I like your planning on your build. Keep up the great work!!


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