TWO LANE BLACK TOP

I agree with Frosty...That the root cause of the vibration issue is drive line related...And not necessarily the bushings and the mounts although the polyurethane body mounts will amplify any existing issue...Broken/worn engine/transmission mounts tend to have a very noticeable clunk when they are loaded and unloaded rather than a steady vibration under normal driving conditions...A couple of things to look at...Has the clutch been recently replaced...If so was the flywheel correctly resurfaced..?? If the clutch has not been replaced then that would be a moot point....I would definitely look at the drive shaft to see if there are any signs of missing weights...Also pay close special attention to the universal joints...On older low mileage cars that spend most of the time sitting...The needle bearings in the (U joint) caps can flat spot over time due to the weight of the driveshaft sitting on the needle bearings constantly in the same place without being rotated for extended periods...Even if they appear tight...if there are any flat spots it will cause a vibration as the joints will not work as smoothly as they should under normal driving conditions...Might be worth looking at...

Great looking staircase...Nice Work..! Glad my house is brick...

Does the vibration only occur at idle..?? Or Through a certain RPM range...?? While sitting in neutral only with the clutch engaged...?? Or driving down the road at different speeds..Etc.. If you could narrow down the specifics some...It will help in pointing you in the right direction...We like to help if we can....

If I remember correctly the guy does alot of commercial HVAC Ductwork...

As far as the trunk lid goes...If you replace it...Pay close attention to the the radius (curved radius like on your car as opposed to a sharp 90 degree bend) of the front corners of the replacement lid...They may vary from the 2 door hardtop.. convertible...2 door sedan (post)..4 door sedan ( post) from the 4 door hard top..

Don't know if this really fits the criteria.....Personally I think this is pretty cool...Some old guy built it in his backyard...Then brought it to the shop for me to make a trailer hitch for it... The other car is my buddies Grand Prix...

6 speed or Auto...?? Welcome to forever Pontiac...

This may sound crazy....Are all the metal ends on the spark plug wire ends pushed all the way down and tightly fit the contacts on the distributor cap and the plugs....??? It's possible for the rubber boots to be bottomed out but the wire ends not be directly contacting the plugs/distributor cap...Causing the spark to have to jump a gap between the wire ends and the plugs/distributor cap contacts...car would run OK...Because the spark would be insulated inside the rubber boot and not short against anything metal...But If the spark has to jump a gap between the wire ends and the contacts...It will cause the ignition module to internally overheat and prematurely fail...Because of the extra energy needed to jump any gaps that may be created by the wires not tightly connected to the plugs/distributor.....

Grumman TBM torpedo planes during WW2...1943/1945..????

Does the car still have a quadrajet carburetor....?? Has it been tampered with..?? Does it load up and run really rich when first started...Even if the choke is all the way open...?? Does it continuously run rich even when the engine is warm during normal driving conditions....?? Does it bog down when you open the throttle all the way...?? Is it hard to start when both hot or cold..??

Something often overlooked is a good clean unpainted surface where the distributor hold down clamp is... Also that it is tight...The distributor hold down clamp provides the ground from the engine directly to the distributor housing itself...If the contact areas on the intake manifold/engine block or the distributor or the hold down and the bolt itself are dirty...Corroded..Etc..The distributor itself will not be grounded as well as it needs to be.....

Mrs. Two Lane asked that question once.... My response was...Because I want too...And No the other ones are not for sale....This topic is now closed to any further response/discussion.....Go make me a sandwich.....And be quick about it.....

After the process was done...you could take a ballpeen hammer and beat on the crankshaft journals and it wouldn't leave anykind of Mark or indentations...Absolutely No damage at all....(Was demonstrated to us by the representative of the company that did the process) As I would personally Never take a hammer to anykind of bearing journal...EVER..

Neither...Have been involved since I was a kid..It is pretty much a Family affair although we aren't really kin to each other..I have driven in several races over the years.... Now I just mainly build (engines and chassis).. tune and prep the car...Now that I've gotten older It's pretty much just a hobby ...Although I've profited from it in the past.. I was even a reality TV Star back in 2010 on a show Called Madhouse that focused on some of the modified teams at Bowman Gray Stadium...I was in every commercial and trailer advertising the show...And was in every episode that aired..Including one that focused on Me and Salter...Had us portrayed as the mad scientist engine builders..NASCAR stepped in...and the show was cancelled before all the episodes were aired because NASCAR felt that a bunch of crazed rednecks fighting and crashing each other out every Saturday night in front of a crowd of 15000 Rowdy...Very hostile fans really didn't fit the family friendly narrative they were try to push at the time...It aired Sunday nights on The history Channel...We even did a local Superbowl commercial that year....Was pretty cool...

Alot of tracks around here have a Modified class that run a spec..602 Crate engine that is actually affordable....The chassis is basically the same as what we run...The 602 engine is an Iron headed 350 CID..4.00 bore...3.48 Stroke that is rated at 350 horsepower...390 foot lbs. Of torque with 9.1.1 compression...Runs on 93 octane gas and costs right at $5000.00 and includes everything but the Carburetor...Starter..Spark plugs..ETC..It also comes an 8 quart side kickout oil pan...It is sealed at the factory to prevent any creative internal engineering..(although it can be done and camouflaged to pass tech) With a pretty significant gain in power... Don't ask me how I know that..😈😈 They Also have to run skinny wheels and a spec treaded type race tires...They are also allowed to run a 750 CFM carburetor instead of the mandated 390 CFM that we run..Except for the narrower wheels....They look the same as what we run...You can buy a turn key car ready to race for less than the cost of one of our engines...It is a very competitive division with good car counts... Bowman Gray Stadium (Our regular venue) is as far as I know the the only track south of the Mason Dixon line that Runs The true NASCAR Mods...as the featured division every Saturday night...The other tracks up north that feature them on a weekly basis are Thompson speedway 5/8ths mile oval in Connecticut..Riverhead New York...Stafford Springs Connecticut and a few others that I can't think of at the moment...The NASCAR Whelen Modified tour originates from that part of the country..The NASCAR Smart Tour (Southern Modified Auto Racing Teams) Is what we race in..This year I think there are 11 tour races on the schedule this year..at different tracks in Virginia..SouthCarolina..North Carolina..Georgia...Sometimes Bristol Tennessee...Although we rarely run any of the tour races...As We generally focus our energy and Resources at the Stadium..We do always try to run The North South Shootout which is the only time the northern and Southern tour is a combined event that usually takes place at Martinsville or Bristol speedways in conjunction with the Cup weekends..Although the Shootout has taken place at Thompson conn. A couple of times...And at Caraway speedway in Sophia N.C...It is the only time We get to directly compete against the Yankees...

The sky is the limit.... Around $100,000 or more provided you already have a well stocked shop with the right tools and a tow vehicle and trailer.....And you don't have a hard crash that bends the car real bad...or blow an engine...that amount will give you a real good start if you spend it in the right places...Generally costs around 6 to $700.00 a week to run at the stadium (Bowman Gray) every Saturday night...Tires...gas pit passes...Etc.. If you crash hard or blow up the price goes up from there... But if you don't get new tires every week and buy a couple drums of gas at the beginning of the season... You can do do it for half that price if you have a good smart driver who doesn't overly beat on the car and good luck and a sound strategy you can be competitive and might even knock off a win...The majority of the regular modified guys who only run the Stadium fall into the latter category.... Running all the races on the Whelan Modified tour is a whole different $$$$$ level....

The car is a copy of a Troyer Engineering Chassis..That was built from scratch by me and a couple other people with a few differences from an actual Troyer about 3 years ago in a garage behind one of my lifelong friends dads house...The engine is a 358 C.I.D Chevy...4.135 bore..3.30 stroke with a 6.0 rods Starting with a Dart Little "M" Block.. Standard deck height 9.020 With a 4.135 bore..The final bore and hone was done using two torque plates (one on each cylinder bank) The cam tunnel has been line bored to accept roller bearings instead of regular cam bearings..The lifter bores were bored to a larger size and bronze bushings were installed..(The bushings are self lubricating and create less friction than the standard Cast iron that the block is made of) internally the block has been deburred and any excess flashing left over from the casting process and all the sharp edges rounded to help eliminate any potential stress points (all done by hand with a die grinder)...It was then shot peened...Again to help relieve any stress points...Then Splayed billet maincaps are installed using ARP studs and bolts and then line bored to insure that they are running perfectly square with the centerline of the block and the Main bearing journals are all exactly the same size...It is thoroughly cleaned after that..Then Brass Freeze plugs are installed...And screens Are installed over the oil drain backs in the lifter gallery to catch any small pieces before they get into the rest of the oil passages should there be a failure in the valve trane...The Crankshaft is a lightweight gun drilled forged steel Lunati...3.30 stroke with the oil holes chamfered and the journals radiused then Cryogenically treated (very expensive$$$$) It is meticulously balanced....The 6.00 Carillo forged H beam connecting rods with cracked caps were individually weighed on both ends all weigh within a 1/4 gram of each other...With ARP rod bolts the Wrist pins (GM performance parts) Are full floating...the pistons are forged high compression pop top Mahle with valve reliefs cut into the top for valve clearance with Low tension compression rings..With the end gaps set at .019...The Comp Cams solid roller Camshaft is custom ground to our specs...260 duration @ .50 with a 770 lift with a 109 Degree lobe separation angle (LSA) with a 4..7 firing order swap.. installed straight up...With a Jessel belt drive timing set... The solid roller lifters and ties are Comp cams...with matching double springs and 10 degree titanium retainers....The Cylinder heads are GM Performance parts 18 degree....Custom ported by hand and tested on a flow bench to insure the same volume and velocity of air is consistent through all the intake and exhaust ports...The exhaust ports flow 75 % of the volume of intake ports...(which is ideal for making really good power) The valves are titanium and have a five angle grind... The valve seats and guides are also bronze.. The Valve springs have an open seat pressure of around 750 lbs. And use 3/8ths diameter push rods to prevent flexing at high RPMs along with the heavy valve spring seat pressures keeps the tappets from catapulting and loosing contact with the cam lobes during High RPM operation...The rocker arms are a Jessel offset shaft setup... with a MSD ignition and a dual point distributer...And 5 stage dry sump oiling system.. The intake manifold is a "Specially prepped" Edlebrock Air gap Victor Junior..Topped with a NASCAR Mandated 390 "special" (has gotten past the pre race inspections so far) but we still have our fingers crossed ....Carburetor ....Power is transferred through self contained 3 disc clutch unit mounted to a Flexplate instead of a flywheel...to a Hightower 2 speed (fast and faster) transmission with gun drilled main shaft... then on to a Franklin quick change rear end...Rolls on 15 inch diameter wheels that are also15 inches wide....Wilwood brakes are used for stopping power.. The car just barely makes minimum weight limit of 2610 pounds with the driver and a full load of 115 octane race gas...The engine dynoed at 673 horsepower...well over 500 foot lbs. Of torque @ 8700 RPMs...

Thats Bobby labonte on the hook after he crashed out on the last lap.... Have some more pics and some in car video...Will post in the next day or so...after I sort through it...Been a long day and have to work early tomorrow.... 20210314_182720.mp4

Didn't have a very good day...Quaified/started 5th..Got spun out on the second lap by Bobby Labonte... But after a last lap crash wound up finishing 8th out of 27 cars...The 22 car is us.. 20210314_173420.mp4 20210314_173233.mp4

Good morning Kiwi, Going to be a fine day for racing...So will be headed to the track here in a couple of hours ( Caraway speedway..1/2 mile banked oval ) will be racing a NASCAR modified for the first time since since the beginning of last summer...The car has been pretty much ready to go since last year...This track is one that we normally don't race at on a regular basis....The car is set up to normally race at Bowman Gray Stadium (Flat 1/4 mile around a football field) So will have to change the front end settings and will be running a 6:92 gear in the rear end...And will probably play with the Jets in the carburetor to take advantage of the cooler air...Temps were in the high 90s last time out...Temps will only be in the low 60s today so we might be able to gain a couple of extra horses because of the cooler denser air...We have won at this track a couple of times before so we're hoping for a good showing today.... Have not taken and I'm not going to take the vaccine...Have also never worn a mask and I refuse to do so...Although I've had a couple of indoctrinated Nosey do gooders Who don't mind their own business attempt to confront me about it a couple of times over the last year....But that's another story for another time...Here in my locality people generally Don't really care about or obey any decrees the "Woke Cancel Culture"assholes or the Government (one in the same) tries to force upon us.....

That is a really really tough question....All the decades had some really great Pontiacs...Including the Not included...1950s....?? Will have to think about it for a couple days before casting my all vote...

Thanks Frosty..... Apparently I am on a roll... Now If I could just win the Powerball lottery......

Thank y'all very much...For allowing me to be part of the Pontiac community....Will be taking the Picasso down and replacing it with the Forever Pontiac calendar....It will definitely add some class to my house...And I will now be the envy of all my family and friends... Thank y'all again.... TLBT...

Very cool.....

If the cylinder heads look like that...Chances are the lifter gallery/oil galleys are going to be just as bad... The screen on the oil pump might be half ass plugged too...Short of disassembling the engine and hot tanking it...I don't know...Perhaps Last Indian would know of some kind engine flush Chemical/procedure that would work without having to take everything apart...that could be put in the crankcase and using an oiling tool to turn the oil pump without actually running the engine..... Wish I could be of more help......