TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Welcome... Good looking car..

Fun is what cars are all about..I'm getting ready to go hit my favorite stretch of highway and drive my 1LE Firebird 150 MPH...Within the next hour...🏁🏁🏁

More than Happy to help..🍻

Kiwi.. Have been doing some more research...on the Jetaway transmission on a couple of different sites...According to One site...Called Transmission Charlie.. https//www.charlietranny.com The Superhydra-Matic...Is also referred to as the Jetaway 315... After looking at the 1964 supplement again I noticed this.. So I'm thinking the Supr hydra matic and the jetaway 315 may be one in same...But not 100% sure...

The 1963 manual also contains a section detailing the Complete service...Maintenance and Tear down and Rebuild of the SuperHydra-matic trans...

Think this is the info that you're seeking...The only Auto transmissions I see listed in any of the Manuals are the Roto Hydra-Matic..And the Super Hydra-Matic..There is No mention of the Jet Away Trans...in either the 1963 chassis manual or the 1964 chassis manual...Which is Supplement for the 63 manual..According to the info on the ID tag on your Transmission you have the Super hydramatic...Hope this helps...

Yeah it does suck for sure.. The exact same same thing (cross threaded castle nut) happened To me recently when I ruined a new trailer axle spindle...By the time I realized what was happening ...It was too late...The damage had already been done...

It's all good...Sometimes Shit just happens....

Yeah..It is in pretty bad shape...But..There is another option besides welding up the shaft and rethreading....That may work really well... You might be able to "pin" the nut and shaft...What I mean by that is...If when the steering wheel is seated all the down..If It is even with the top of the spline...There is still some threads left right above the spline...There also appears to be a couple of threads left at the top of the shaft.. First thing to do would be to file down the high spot where the threads are gaulded up... To the point to where it is even or justa below the circumference of the shaft being really careful not to hit the the existing threads at the top of of the shaft...Use a thread file ...To carefully straighten out the few threads at the top of the shaft... justa be really careful take your time and pay close attention....Once you get the top threads straightened out enough to where a nut will start...Take your time and check and double check that the nut is starting on the shaft straight...Once that is accomplished...Use the thread file to clean up what is left of the threads above the spline...Then carefully run the nut down until it bottoms out against the spline...Don't use any unnecessary excessive force when snugging the nut..Carefully...Take the nut back off..The put the steering wheel back on the spline insuring that it is clocked right...(you will only have one shot to get it right) Then carefully run the nut down against the wheel...Once that is done...Use the proper sized drill bit..for a 1/8 (.125) split roll pin...Then drill a hole with the center line between the shaft and the nut..Once that is done drive the pin into the hole and cut it off even.. It doesn't matter if there are no threads contacting the inside of the nut all the way down just as long as the remaining threads Above the spline are still intact...The Roll pin will effectively hold everything tightly together and keep the nut/shaft as one unit..Forever.. If you ever need to remove the steering wheel again you can drill the pin out...and everything (nut) will come back off just like before... That is an option...if you really don't want to remove/replace the steering column... Firm believer that anything can be fixed if your in a desperate situation...And there are absolutely no other options available.... Justa thought I would mention it...🤔 If for nothing else but entertainment purposes... TLBT..

Justa to satisfy my own curiosity...Would it be possible to post a couple of detailed pics of the threads and the nut...??

Man.. That's Fucked up.. Well at least the scumbags didn't hack the rest of the car...With a sawzall/Cutting torch..ETC.. Hopefully if they are putting the components in another car it will slip off the stands/lift and crush their low life asses to death....

Personally I would be very Tempted to fix the original column...Although it can be a tedious and aggravating operation and requires alot of patience... If you decide to go with the tilt wheel...I would agree with Kiwi...It would be hard to go wrong with an OEM unit.. GM..Non tilt column...

Are you 100% positively without a doubt sure that there is no water or some other contaminants in the gas tank...?? Would highly suggest that you isolate tank like I explained earlier...Then go from there...

Can't really tell...But most GM 2bbl carbs..From that era...Would be a Rochester two jet...

Does the the car Have a Quadrajet Carburetor...?? A quick easy way to insure a clean fuel supply..Would be to get a gallon of fresh gas in a clean regular gas can...Then Unhook the Main gas line from the tank...At the inlet side of the fuel pump...Run a piece of clean rubber gas hose from the inlet side of the pump right into the gas can...That will isolate the fuel system from any crap/blockages that may be in the lines or the gas tank..If the car has Q-jet carb..There is a filter at the gas inlet at the carb...Make sure it is clean Or temporarily remove it..Try to start the car and see what happens...Then we will go from there... Just dumping gas down the carb like that is counter productive...If the fuel bowl in the carb is empty..Due to lack of gas coming from the fuel pump...you can dump all the gas in the world down the carb and it still won't run right or for any length of time...

Has been awhile since I've replaced points...But If I remember correctly there is a packet of lube that comes with the new points...That you smear on the lobe between and the surface where the points contact the cam lobe...and takes the place of the wick... Still suspect Carburetor/ Fuel issue... TLBT..

The plastic piece from the distributor is the Cam lubricator assembly...(part 2A) It is a wick that contains a lubricant that Oils the cam in the distributor that the Breaker Points ride against....

Fun time is over...Have to go back to work now...☹ Ya'll have a good day....

Yes..There is a ground strap between them...

I still completely agree with Kiwi...That you're having Fueling issues... One other thing..Make sure that the distributor hold down clamp is tight and the contact surfaces are good and clean.... As the hold down clamp provides the main ground (earth) between the engine block and the body of the distributor itself...

I also like the idea ...Would definitely be different/way cool.... Quite possibly the Ultimate Q Ship...???

The 2002 3.8 Supercharged Buick engine used in the Grand Prix... Is a completely different From the 3.4/3400 V6 engine used in the Montana...And Don't really share any common parts..So the short answer is No..The 3.8 Super Charger will Not work with the 3.4.. 3.4/3400 montana engine 2002 40th Anniversary Grand Prix GTP...The Supercharged 3.8/231 Also uses different cylinder heads..Than the naturally aspirated version of the same engine.. Among several other things...

Great car... One of my high school girlfriends had a 73 GTO...Her sister had a Chevy Laguna S-3.... They both were cool cars.....Haven't seen either one of those kind of cars...Out on the road or in any local car shows in at least a decade or more... Welcome to Forever pontiac...

Nice work..👍👍

Thanks Frosty...Learned something new...