TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Freshly made bananna flavored Corn Squeezens...Or maybe Butterscotch.. Or both..?? Not sure which one would be proper for Lamb chops....

What time do I need to show up for dinner....?? Do I need to bring anything..??

Bad grounds from the body to the engine can cause all kinds of chase your tail issues...Possibly even timing light issues...

When the engine was put back in....Was the ground strap that goes from the back of the engine to the body put back in place..??

Does the car still have the original engine..?? Can you post some engine pics..??

Your radiator and cooling system appears to be correct....Hope this helps....

"Reincarbonated".... Good one Frosty..👍

I feel your pain Kiwi... Ain't it fixin to be Summer in New Zealand too..?? I generally don't drink much ...Tonight I will make an exception...A recent Tropical Storm took out a large part of one of my 100 year old Ashe trees...Luckily it barely missed the house...So I am going to use the tree to build a bonfire tonight and drink a couple of brews while standing around it....During the course of this evenings festivities I will propose a toast and hoist a beer in honor of your deceased Kelvinator...🍻 One other thing...Might have found a job for Earl..

I'm thinking the same thing🤔...The lack of a tachometer and the woodgrain on the dash instead of the engine turned aluminum trim were the first things that jumped out at me...Also appears to have manual brakes...Also hate the 80s velour seat covers..

The homemade aluminum foil flags on the rabbit ears were also a cool accessory.... Although they only worked correctly as long as you were standing there with your hand on the antenna.....So dad could watch Cronkite with a clear picture.....After he used the "No batteries required remote" to change the TV channels....

Except for the Pontiac cop cars in Smokey and the Bandit.....

I have a 1963 air conditioning shop manual..Don't know if it will help...But might be worth a try....What exactly is it that you're looking for..?? Also have a friend (work with him) with a 62 Grand Prix with functioning factory AC..If all else fails....Might be very possible to take a really close look at it...and take photos or draw out a crude schematic....

Super remote skiing.....You might as well be on the moon....If Something (heaven forbid)...Went Wrong... Thats Hardcore...👍👍 Understand body parts that don't function as well as they Once did.....My climbing days are pretty much over...☹☹ Time to let the young guys have it.....

As an animal lover myself... My pets are a major part of my family.... I'm truly sorry for your loss... R.I.P Harry.. TLBT ..

Was only able to find a couple photos of the Georgia helicopter job... There is some more really excellent photos and good video of us actually on the tower with the helicopter hovering 30 feet above us..While we were cutting the sections loose....Rigging the sections to the chopper were the were flown and laid down 5 miles away...Have been unable to locate them though....Think there might be copies on the company computer...Will check into it sometime the first of the Week...

Hi..Everyone If I remember correctly...Some of the tower shots are in the Off Topic section..Titled as My Morning Commute... Think there is some more in the Photogeekery thread... Anyway here is some more pics that I have taken over the last couple of years at various tower sites Mostly in SC..GA..VA..and CT...

New Zealand is a beautiful place...Maybe someday I will get the opportunity to see it in person.. We used a helicopter (civilian version of a CH-47 Chinook) one time a few years ago to take down a 500 ft. Tall old School AT&T communication tower with four copper feed horns the size of a pickup truck mounted on on the top of it....From a mountain top in Northwest Georgia Near Stone Mountain.... It was.... Extremely Terrifying and exciting at the same time.....With absolutely no room for error...Thought I was done for...A couple of different times on that job...Loved it and wouldn't hesitate to do it again....

I reread my answer and looked at the photo again....Now that I think about it...The exhaust heat passage in the intake goes around the the depression you're pointing at...That is where the choke thermostatic spring would have been and is not open to the passage itself...That being said blocking off the passage wouldn't do anything...advantageous and would hinder cold weather drivability...Bottom line is...It's not a good idea...For a year round street driven car....Sorry wasn't trying to lead you astray.... When the cylinder heads were redone...Were they cut (milled down)...If so How much was taken off of them..? Depending how much the heads were cut down...It changes the angle of the cylinder head on the top (intake side) where the intake manifold bolts to the head...As a result of the angle change...The intake manifold angle will still be the same and it won't match the angle of the heads correctly and will cause sealing problems...If that turns out to be the case(hopefully not)....The mating surfaces of the intake manifold would have to be cut down and to correctly match the angle of the cylinder heads....If no more than .020 to .030 was cut off the heads that shouldn't be an issue... Any more than that is when the angles really start to change too the point where intake fitment becomes an issue....But I would still retorque the manifold bolts first starting from the center and work you way out....See what happens... Then go from there... TLB

That passage is where the thermostatic spring for the divorced choke that was used on the original carburetor was located...The spring tension increased or decreased opening/closing the choke accordingly with the air temperature...The air temp in that passage was controlled by the heat riser located on the passenger side exhaust manifold.. As Bear suggested try tightening the center bolts.. I'm not 100% sure but I think intake gaskets are available that block off that passage.... Might also be a good idea to make sure the exhaust manifolds/headers aren't leaking at the gaskets...paying special attention to the center exhaust ports......

Have been away for awhile... But I'm back now........Does the engine have an oil scavenger tray in the bottom...?? If so It's very possible that one counter weights on the crankshaft might be hitting it or rubbing against it once on every revolution....

There no harm in opening the oil pump to look inside for any contaminants...When you pull the cover just make sure that you don't damage the paper gasket...The gasket thickness is instrumental in determining the clearance of the gears inside the pump..Also mark the gears with a sharpie so you can be sure that they are oriented in the same position with each other as they were to begin with..Upon reassembly...A very slight amount of wear is normal on the cover...Something else that is often overlooked that is definitely worth checking...When you reinstall the oil pump..Drop the distributor in without the hold down bracket or the gasket and let the distributor and the oil pump drive just rest in position naturally....Then measure with a feeler guage the distance between the bottom of the distributor and the engine block...Then measure the thickness of the gasket...Most gaskets are around .020 thick..but thicker ones are available... So if the measurement between the two is excessive... more than .005 - .010 when you lock the distributor down it pushes the oil pump drive rod down on the pump gears too tightly against the cover of the oil pump and will cause premature wear...Send metal shavings through the entire engine and eventual failure of the pump...In order to prevent that from happening you would have to grind down one end of the oil pump drive rod in order to attain the proper clearance...Ideally when the distributor with the gasket..locked in place the pump drive rod should have right around .050 to .060 of up and down play between the pump and the distributor....(measured with a feeler guage at the oil pump) Looks like a piece of an exhaust valve seal that was in the oil pan.....

As Bear mentioned you might have gotten lucky and only have the exhaust valve sealing issues...Since you're going to have to pull the heads anyway..It would be a good idea after the heads are off...To roll the engine over by hand to make sure that all the pistons are coming up to the same height in the bores... If they all don't have the same distance from the deck to the top of the pistons that would be a sure sign that you have a bent or kinked rod...Pay special attention to #s 5 and 6....if they are all the same height (none of them lower in the bore than the rest of them)...You're more than likely good to go as far as the bottom end goes....

Wrongway.. You can use an old spark plug and knock the ceramic center out of it with a hammer and a punch and grind or cut the electrode off and weld a Male fitting to the remaining outer part of the plug...That fits your chuck on the air hose and use it for pressurizing the cylinder.. Did the original valves have a three or four degree angle valve grind on them..?? What about the valve seats..?? It's not too late

Wrongway.. You can use an old spark plug and knock the ceramic center and the metal electrode out of it with a hammer and a punch and grind or cut the electrode off the bottom and weld a Male fitting to the remaining outer part of the plug...That fits your chuck on the air hose and use it for pressurizing the cylinder.. Did the original valves have a three or four degree angle valve grind on them..?? What about the valve seats..?? It's not too late to disassemble the heads and grind And/or lap the valves in as there is only a very narrow area (only a few thousanths wide) that actually contacts the seat the other two or three angles are ground to facilitate efficient velocity and airflow..The thing is the expense of New Head and related gaskets...I would not reuse head gaskets once they have been torqued whether they have been run or not.. You should be able to determine the original valve angles by using the broken valve faces (hopefully you still have the broken parts) as a guide using a protractor to find the angles... If you duplicate the original angles they should match up with the valve seats... You can have a machine shop grind the valves only (cheaply)...To your specs..Then lap them in and reassemble the heads Yourself...You can also closely inspect the guides and the springs/locks/retainers while everything is apart... But before you do all that do your air test first and then decide where to go from there...