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Havoc's '48 Farmall "Progression"


havoc1482

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Got the puller. Apparently nobody around here has a 2 jaw puller. I borrowed a 3 jaw from work and it didn't fit, so I just bought a cheap 2 jaw from Sears, about 20 bucks.



Flange came off real smooth, but my current problem is THE F*CKING WOODRUFF KEY that it was on. I JUST CAN'T GET THE DAMN THING OUT. And it needs to be removed before I can rubber mallet the mainshaft out the ass end of the case.



Recommendations?



11083856_10204861205664569_8054546279318


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I got that key, damn that was so frustrating. I also got this frustrating part done:



>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfgO10lEn70



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Also, Frosty its not a typo because it appears again a couple lines down. I think its lingo for just keeping it steady and in place as you tap the shaft out. Not that I did haha. I just hammered it through and let the shaft drop the few inches into the housing as I worked it out.

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I found what punched itself into the oiler gear. This is the only piece in the bottom of the transmission, it was otherwise clean. It matched up perfectly with the groove/damage on the gear.



11112572_10204867736227829_3797620394552



10433106_10204867736987848_7034081164096




11069636_10204867736387833_4317672184707





Of course, I have no idea where it came from... I want to think its from the shifter somehow because I'm guessing it fell. I can't find damage anywhere, and that is what concerns me.


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I found what punched itself into the oiler gear. This is the only piece in the bottom of the transmission, it was otherwise clean. It matched up perfectly with the groove/damage on the gear.

11112572_10204867736227829_3797620394552

10433106_10204867736987848_7034081164096

11069636_10204867736387833_4317672184707

Of course, I have no idea where it came from... I want to think its from the shifter somehow because I'm guessing it fell. I can't find damage anywhere, and that is what concerns me.

Can you match up that piece of metal to the same type of metal in the transmission? Like the shifter? Clutch forks? Pieces of the case / tranny pan? Spacers / shims?

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I thinking the most likely culprit is the shifter rails. I'll have to take those apart. Its the only place in the transmission where there is metal that thin.


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Somewhat related. I split the Farmall C at work today, so we can replace the ring gear, clutch fingers\plates, and throwout bearing. Not exactly the same tractor as my Super A, but everything from the transmission forward is the exact same with the exception of the narrow front wheel setup for the tricycle configuration. I got all the knowledge I need if I ever have to replace a clutch without the headache of taking apart my own tractor lol



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10985192_10204925524272494_8846556577472


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Gotta' love 'Merica !!!!



Havoc, any chance you can get a bearing race/punch to get that last bearing out? Or perhaps cut a piece of hard wood to the diameter of the bearing in order to punch/beat it out?



I am proud of you. You are taking a very serious and practical approach to this rebuild. It is serious (and expensive) but if you do it right, this rebuild should last another 50-60 years too.


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Thanks Frosty . I haven't quite gotten around to new methods of getting that bearing out, but....



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I found out where that little piece broke off. I took the shifter rails off the mount and found this on top:



11149254_10204934142167936_9208548371144



1012923_10204934141847928_39586263174752




Now all thats left is to order the correct parts. I'm going to consult with the other Farmall guys to see if I can still use that shifter rail guide without that little tab, I have a feeling a new one is expensive.



I need these:



988908_10204818204269561_579306851433046



#50 ST213T has been superseded by 210064

#21 ST205A has been superseded by 37203



46282D

SEAL

OIL SEAL, differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 358773R91 and 358813R91)



358773R91

RETAINER

OIL SEAL, differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 46282D and 358813R91)


358813R91

OIL SEAL

differential ball bearing retainer (optional with 46282D and 358773R91)


The 3 above (46282D, 358773R91, and 358813R91) have been superseded by 71597C91 which takes all 3 and combines them into one single piece.



355740R1

O-RING,3.734" ID x 0.139" Width

RING, seal, differential ball bearing retainer, 295075 up



Potentially

357538R91

GUIDE

gear shift rail, front (will work for 47289DA)



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If I get the parts through my Case/IH dealer directly from CNH Global it will run me $185.25. Not bad considering that its a factory provider. I will probably order from CNH for a few reasons. One, I like my dealership. Woodbury Tractor is small and they know me. I'm a name not a number so I enjoy that. Two, I get all the parts I need from one source. Three, its from a source I know is quality. Case\IH is very good about that, even for parts for these 60+ year old machines.


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That does not sounds too awfully expensive, all things considered.



Like the advise you got above, heat the casing up and trying to pound or pull the bearing out. If you have a punch or bearing race to punch against, so much the better. Obviously since you are going to replace all the bearing as a set, you don't have to worry about trying to save the bearing itself. You just don't want to damage the bearing mount surface.



As you able to take advantage of modern synthetic fluids in the tractor or does IH/JI Case not recommend it from the older machines?


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I weened my engine off old SAE30 non detergent oil. I run 5w30 now. Some folks even run synthetic. Case/IH makes a modern transmission fluid still labeled with the old "Hy-Tran" moniker. I can run modern gear oil in this tractor. I'm fully able to take advantage of modern fluids.

The only modern problem is, as we all know, is ethanol fuel eating up carb seals and fuel lines. But thats a secondary issue really

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Frosty and everyone thats been contributing to this thread. Shes coming back together. Everything is going smooth. I just need my welder guy to finish my shifter rail. Looks like a tractor again. Just needs the shifter, PTO\Belt pulley, fenders, rear lift arms, and seat.

2c2ed104be7d1d6203bb74fd3fa0e451.jpg

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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

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Cheap. Get em at the hardware store. In fact, if I look hard enough i bet I could find some in the garage lol. They just hook underneath the floor pan to the pedals. The clutch pedal is tensioned internally. The springs are for the two brakes, just forces them back up so the bands dont sit and rub on the drums

They look exactly like this:

5859c722e43d82434dab811bbb0adc5f.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

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It done. Its finally done. After months of prepping, planning, tearing down, and putting together, the Super A is whole once again. cf74d5db12913b71cd4f83be721921ca.jpg

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I would once again like to thank everyone here that has helped and supported me through this. It was a learning process for sure.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

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Good job Havoc! Congratulations! How well does it run now? Have you eliminated all the evil noises?

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Yes and no. Runs great. Transmission is a little quieter, but the damaged oiler gear makes a *tap tap tap* noise. Not a problem though, she'll run 100%. New bearings and repaired shift guide are a big improvement. Before it was a plethora of noise, now its just the moderate tap of the oiler.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

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Yes and no. Runs great. Transmission is a little quieter, but the damaged oiler gear makes a *tap tap tap* noise. Not a problem though, she'll run 100%. New bearings and repaired shift guide are a big improvement. Before it was a plethora of noise, now its just the moderate tap of the oiler.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

Well done Havoc.

So whatever happened to that Phoenix of yours?????

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