My beater i30

[Killiger2009]

wow i didnt even see the swap lol NICE

[Ringo64]

Shake harder boy!

[95naSTA]

A little bit of an update..

The i30 got my old 8/9" BBS Super RS wheels with some hubcentric rings..

I made 3 trips to VA between mid Dec and Mid Jan and on one of those trips my rear caliper piston seal let go. lol. I swapped the caliper in a parking lot.

I got a spare VLSD trans rebuilt which I'll throw in eventually.. A couple weeks ago I decided to space out my rear wheels and roll my rear fenders with a jack handle.

And today I got some maintenance and not so maintenance in.

A few months back I had a little play in the drivers front wheel at 3 and 9, meaning tie rod. That side had an almost seized adjuster nut which was a PITA during the last alignement so I got an inner and outer for that side and an outer for the passenger side.

I was able to get in on a lift at my buddies shop so that got banged out pretty quick.. and I decided to lower the front another half inch. The LCAs are at such a crappy angle that lowering increased my camber by 1* in the positive direction. lol. I was running about a half a degree of negative camber before and now I'm closer to zero. I banged the alignment out pretty quick on thier rack too.

Here's a pic before the rear spacers and the rest are from after the alignment today and a wash.

That last one is the bad side.. it shows the reminder of the damage done when the PO got hit in the front passenger side wheel. It shifted the old bumper support and bumper over, pulling the fender out. So, there's like a 5-10mm difference in how flush the front wheels are at similar camber. Pretty beat, might fix it one day. Same goes for the dented drivers doors, messed up front bumper, kinked hood.. At least it cleans up pretty good and it's all one color.

[[ChaosweaveR]]

So classy.

[95naSTA]

Thanks.

My front tires are toast so I ordered new ones yesterday.. Dunlop SP Sport Maxx. The set I have now treated me pretty good. I decided to go 225/50/18 vs. the 245/45/18 I had. I think the slight stretch I have going on in the rear would look nice up front too. The rear is a 245 on a 9" and the front will be a 225 on an 8".

I also bought short nuts to use some 15mm spacer/adapters I picked up a little while ago. So, the front wheels will be pushed out 15mm but the top corners of the tires will only be out 5mm more. The passenger side should look legit and hopefully the drivers side looks a good bit less hellasunk.

The nuts and tires should be here by the weekend. If the shop I'm always at isn't swamped on Saturday, I should be good to go for getting this in then.

[Twenty]

Your 'beater' has a better stance than my cars. I'm jelly

[[ChaosweaveR]]

Dat BBS.

[95naSTA]

Your 'beater' has a better stance than my cars. I'm jelly

It's not quite where I want it but it's getting there.

I mounted and balanced the new front tires this weekend.

Ordered shorter lugs to use with the 15mm spacer/adapters for the front. They came in but were just about as tall as a typical lug nut. Ok.. So I figured I would use the new lugs on the rear spacers and use the lugs that came with the 15mm spacers originally in the front.. Turns out the new lugs were even too long to use in the 20mm rear spacers.. Sweet. So I took 10 of them to my bench grinder and got them to fit. Then.. ran out of time to do the fronts.

I did finally scan the car for the first time, which was interesting..

Turns out my Bank 1 LTFTs at idle are +2.3% and Bank 2 are -4.6%

And I have DTCs galore..

Heater circuit codes for all O2s

Egr temp sensor (No egr on the car)

Evap leak code

Evap solenoid code (the evap system isn't hooked up)

A fuel pump control signal code (found out its from running a 97 ecu in a 98)

And a TPS code.

I figured I would get codes for the evap, egr, tps and from the rear O2 since it was rubbing.

I put off scanning the car for the longest time since I know I would probably end up trying to fix all of the codes. And.. I was right.

I'm going to replace the front O2s and work on all the other stuff eventually.

For the rear O2, I'm just going to use a simulator with a resistor for the heater circuit.

I'm going to get a JY egr temp sensor, and hack up an EGR tube to put it in.

I'll also get a JY evap solenoid and drill/tap the UIM for that connection.

I'll grab a 98 fed-spec manual ecu whenever I come across one.

And I'll finally adjust the TPS

I have a 3.5 engine with static 3.0 timing equipment and 3.0 engine control. There aren't many of these swaps that don't have a CEL.

Now that I'm fairly certain I can be CEL-less, I want to be too.

Oh and my painter buddy offered to pull/straighten out the front end for free.

[95naSTA]

Being that I can't leave well enough alone, I decided to do a couple more things to this car.

So.. the UIM on the fwd vq35 has a dual plenum, one per bank, with a valve that connects the two plenums during specified rpm ranges. My car had a window switch (IIRC) operating this valve correctly where it's closed, open, closed throughout the whole rpm range. The point of this is to improve cylinder filling for a variety of load/rpm situations instead of just one.

Years back it was dyno confirmed that if you gut the UIM, connecting the two halves, you'll lose no or minimal low/midrange WOT power but you'll gain a decent amount of top end. I kicked around the idea for a while and decided to go for it today. All it took was a sawzall and a little love from a long shanked burr. I don't feel any difference in the low end.. traction is still a problem. The midrange feels smoother and the Top end feels stronger.

I'm also going to try out a Q45 MAF. The thing is huge. My reasoning that it's not too big is: This came stock on a 278 hp engine. HP = air flow, there's no way around it. My bolt on VQ35 is definitely in this hp range at the crank.

Adapting this to work is a little tricky but thanks to Google I shouldn't have a problem. Nissans have a corny 4 bolt pattern from the MAF to the airbox. Luckily, so does Ford and I was able to re-drill a Lightning MAF adapter to work with the Q45 MAF.

I'm still waiting on my velocity stacks for both cars but once I have those I should be putting this thing on.

Q45 left, stock VQ30 right.

And here's a pic of the car 3 wheelin it into a parking lot in the city:

[becksmerc]

that maf is huge compared to stock and i'm very jealous of your stance

[[ChaosweaveR]]

Forever jelly of the BBS wheels.

[becksmerc]

^X2

[95naSTA]

^X2

Like this??

[[ChaosweaveR]]

We're not friends anymore.

[havoc1482]

' timestamp='1334288697' post='70187']

We're not friends anymore.

[Young gun]

Since when is a beater not supposed to look like a beater? O_o

[havoc1482]

Since sliced bread

[95naSTA]

Its all hand me downs I swear..

[Twenty]

I want your beater.

[becksmerc]

why 95naSTA because epic

[95naSTA]

I didn't feel like waiting for the flow stack so I went ahead and hooked the MAF, IACV, and just shoved my old Bonnie air filter into the MAF adapter. And.. It works! The midrange feels healthier but I haven't really pushed it too much up top due to lack of tuning.

I do have a consult cable now and I'm exploring software options for data logging. The one program I tried so far doesn't have long term fuel trims.. just short.

Port for the IACV:

This engine bay is 100% beater status but it works:

[becksmerc]

hey some part of your beater has to look like a beater in order for you to call it a beater

[95naSTA]

Yeah it's the bay, front bumper, front end misalignment, kinked hood, front bumper, and drivers side doors being jacked (it's worse than it looks) that still keep it a beater.

[becksmerc]

i wish i could say the same about the fiero but i have to get it running first i wish it was just body damage

[Twenty]

C'mon, you can't leave it like that.