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no name3's 1965 LeMans

2021 April
of the Month

95naSTA

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About 95naSTA

  • Rank
    Century Club

Profile Information

  • Location
    Philly

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Mike
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    95
  • Car
    Bonneville
  • Trim
    SLE
  • Style
    Sedan

Recent Profile Visitors

3,357 profile views
  1. I cleaned up both of my cars today.. Might as well throw both in here. The engine bay is filthy right now but if you look close you can see all wiring with the exception of the ICM and spark plug wires have been re-routed. I got a new wheel bearing in to replace a noisy one but the ZZP oil volume kit I ordered didn't make it in time for my day off.
  2. I shaved the handles on my old Bonneville. Getting the tension on the cable that attaches the solenoid to the latch was an art form.. I'd be willing to bet the cable needs to be adjusted. This issue and the spine tingling feeling I got from people slamming my doors (worrying about cracks) were the 2 main reasons I didn't do it again.
  3. Here's a part of my engine harness wire tuck. I'm relocating the coils to rear of the engine. From the top, you won't be able to see any spark plug wires. Front or rear. I'll actually be able to reach this from the passenger side too. The ICM bracket is from an 3800 F-body. I used one threaded hole on the block and one on the trans to mount the assembly. This location is similar to where GM mounted the 2.8/3.1 MPFI ICM, just on the other side of the engine. I'm not too worried about heat since my headers are ceramic coated. Water should be fine too. It's pretty far up there in relation to th
  4. I know you said fuses are all ok but that grouping sounds like one of the main fuses in the engine bay popped. Theres 2 groups of large fuses on either side of where the positive side of the battery connects at the top of the engine bay. It might be different on your 99 but on my 95 on the group closer to the driver's side, it's the 60A fuse 3 positions from the connection to the battery.
  5. For this time I would check all your fuses. Mains in the engine bay, panel by the driver's foot well, and panel by the front passenger's foot well. Check the battery ground wire that's bolted to the unibody next to the battery. Also check your ground buses for excessive corrosion. There's 2 that can cause all sorts of electrical issues. One on each side of the car, where the carpet meets the front of the front door sill. They'll be wrapped up in electrical tape. Location on the driver's side:
  6. Thanks! One other thing that I didn't mention is I put a ton of time over the winter into diag-ing an electrical problem I've had for at least a year and a half. The charging system wasn't maintaining a steady voltage.. Long story short it turned out to be the PCM. This issue is why I never finished wire tucking my engine bay. I still had my engine left to do. I have all the wires re-routed and hidden except for the ignition control module and spark plug wires. When I'm done, you'll be able to see the TPS/IAC/MAF wires for a very small run, a very small run of the alt charging wire, and
  7. Thanks guys. @ Ringo, no motorized option unfortunately, I can't bring myself to hack these up to make that happen either. I got my 22mm solid Addco rear sway and brackets back from powder coating a couple weeks back. It only took 5 years but it'll match the 32mm front now. Here's the lasted mini project almost wrapped up for the Bonneville. I wanted a new shifter trim that looked OEM. I searched for what I thought would be close and ended up with a Camaro 6-speed shifter trim. It was close enough to fitting within the Bonneville center console but obviously needed a ton of work..
  8. I haven't done as much as I would like the past few months but I was able to get a set of euro folding mirrors (RPO DD9) painted, wired, and installed. A while back on another forum I saw an overseas member had bought a donor 92' SSE/i with the euro export package and was going to junk the car once the drivetrain was pulled. I immediately pm'd asking to buy the mirrors. I made an offer without any detailed pics of the condition figuring anything cosmetic could be fixed. The deal took a while to materialize but the mirrors arrived a few months ago. The connectors were cut, 3/4 studs were miss
  9. ^^Thanks Did a couple quick fixes. Turns out the pegs were aftermarket and the right one was cracked/welded. I replaced both with stock. The middle plastic chain guard had a broken mounting tab and the rear guard was missing. I picked up some stock ones and replaced the middle guard. I'm not sure if I want to install the rear or not at this point. I also bought a new chain and gears. The rear is a quick change rear with +1 tooth. And I'm also planning on dropping the exhaust to polish it. When I picked up my Duc I was a fan of the ex-box exhaust but it was pretty tarnished..
  10. Rough day today.. it started off by not being able to find my stainless MIG wire. All of the welding supply places in my area were closed. I found a spot open on the other side of the city, took my bike, and battled traffic there and back. When I went to head to my buddy's shop, I realized my electrical problem came back.. Pulling that 6a fuse on the way over didn't help, nor did datalogging. When I got there, I tried pulling every fuse in the I/P fuse block and relay center that I could with the engine running with no change. I tried a new alternator, and it does a slightly better job of cha
  11. Today was a good day. I ended up repairing a few other things in the process of diagnosing that voltage issue. I repurposed the following pins at the PCM firewall connector for convince: White C6 (EGR and IAT ground) I didn't see the IAT ground initially. -fixed that White C10 (EGR +5v) Blue E10 (boost control) since this was originally a S1 L67 car Blue F12 (EGR position) Blue F14 (trans temp) All those checked out ok with the exception of the IAT ground. I checked the main fuse block - all fuses ok Passenger side relay center fuses - ok Driver's side I/P fuese block: 1C blown - Airbag -
  12. Thanks! The stainless cleaner didn't come in so I decided to work on the cluster. The MPH gauge had a small crack when I got it.. It eventually went up and diagonally more than 3/4 of the way across the bezel's face. New gauge clusters are 7-800, used are 400+ and every once in a while you'll see one for under 200. The face can't be bought alone and there's no easy way to cut out the convex lens without destroying the bezel. I wasn't trying to spend a few hundred so I've been looking for a compatible gauge off a similar Duc. I found one on ebay month or so ago but it had a crack in th
  13. I've had my license for about 3 years but never got not a bike till early May. It's an '07 Ducati Monster S2R800 and had 15k on it when I got it. The mods are: K&N panel filter, EX Box exhaust, tail chop, integrated LED tail, and a few deletes. The seller picked it up a year ago and said the valves were adjusted and the timing belts were changed by the original owner but there's no paperwork. It needed a battery, a good cleaning, and the gauge bezel had a crack. He was asking 5200 and I picked it up for 4200, so the final price reflected all that. It is crazy fun, sounds awesome, and I lo
  14. Thanks guys! On the exterior, I'm sure I could cut/buff a lot of the scratches out but it honestly needs more than that in some areas. The glass has to come out to address some rust that popped up after the respray and the headlight conversion needs some touch up. Got lots to do before I revisit that though. I think I may have figured out what's been causing an electrical issue that's been going on for a while now.. The voltage pulses about every second and a half unless I'm datalogging. (weird right?) I went over some of the rewiring I did, fuses, I know it's not the alt, tried gr
  15. I've got a few updates from my last. In May I finally got the car up on truck jack stands, transmission dropped, and took measurements to verify that the hydraulic throw out bearing was not over extending. The measurements checked out ok. (recap - HOTB was leaking from either over extension, bleeding incorrectly, or from the trans sitting in storage for a long period of time?) With the Spec HTOB spacer installed on a new HTOB: Fully extended: 2.51" to engine/trans mounting face Fully compressed: 3.395" to the engine/trans mounting face Both measurements above were taken with the bleeder
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