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Pontiac of the Month

dues70's 1970 Pontiac Bonneville

2020 July
of the Month


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About 95naSTA

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  1. I cleaned up both of my cars today.. Might as well throw both in here. The engine bay is filthy right now but if you look close you can see all wiring with the exception of the ICM and spark plug wires have been re-routed. I got a new wheel bearing in to replace a noisy one but the ZZP oil volume kit I ordered didn't make it in time for my day off.
  2. I shaved the handles on my old Bonneville. Getting the tension on the cable that attaches the solenoid to the latch was an art form.. I'd be willing to bet the cable needs to be adjusted. This issue and the spine tingling feeling I got from people slamming my doors (worrying about cracks) were the 2 main reasons I didn't do it again.
  3. Here's a part of my engine harness wire tuck. I'm relocating the coils to rear of the engine. From the top, you won't be able to see any spark plug wires. Front or rear. I'll actually be able to reach this from the passenger side too. The ICM bracket is from an 3800 F-body. I used one threaded hole on the block and one on the trans to mount the assembly. This location is similar to where GM mounted the 2.8/3.1 MPFI ICM, just on the other side of the engine. I'm not too worried about heat since my headers are ceramic coated. Water should be fine too. It's pretty far up there in relation to the subframe (especially with the engine and trans 1.5" taller than stock). The bracket will be powder coated wrinkle black to match the 6-speed swap brackets. After I got done this and a couple other little things at my buddy's shop, I picked up the gf and had her get a vid of me rowing through the gears. https://youtu.be/8EuLcKyuSdI
  4. I know you said fuses are all ok but that grouping sounds like one of the main fuses in the engine bay popped. Theres 2 groups of large fuses on either side of where the positive side of the battery connects at the top of the engine bay. It might be different on your 99 but on my 95 on the group closer to the driver's side, it's the 60A fuse 3 positions from the connection to the battery.
  5. For this time I would check all your fuses. Mains in the engine bay, panel by the driver's foot well, and panel by the front passenger's foot well. Check the battery ground wire that's bolted to the unibody next to the battery. Also check your ground buses for excessive corrosion. There's 2 that can cause all sorts of electrical issues. One on each side of the car, where the carpet meets the front of the front door sill. They'll be wrapped up in electrical tape. Location on the driver's side:
  6. Thanks! One other thing that I didn't mention is I put a ton of time over the winter into diag-ing an electrical problem I've had for at least a year and a half. The charging system wasn't maintaining a steady voltage.. Long story short it turned out to be the PCM. This issue is why I never finished wire tucking my engine bay. I still had my engine left to do. I have all the wires re-routed and hidden except for the ignition control module and spark plug wires. When I'm done, you'll be able to see the TPS/IAC/MAF wires for a very small run, a very small run of the alt charging wire, and that's it. No ICM/coils/wires/loom, nothing. I almost have my bike back together, so that should free up some time I can put toward finishing up the wire tuck.
  7. Thanks guys. @ Ringo, no motorized option unfortunately, I can't bring myself to hack these up to make that happen either. I got my 22mm solid Addco rear sway and brackets back from powder coating a couple weeks back. It only took 5 years but it'll match the 32mm front now. Here's the lasted mini project almost wrapped up for the Bonneville. I wanted a new shifter trim that looked OEM. I searched for what I thought would be close and ended up with a Camaro 6-speed shifter trim. It was close enough to fitting within the Bonneville center console but obviously needed a ton of work.. I used an airless plastic welder to join the parts, wire mesh backing on all joints, and a heat gun to convince a couple of the lines to come together. The goal was not to use any filler or epoxy and have it look as stock as possible. A couple other Bonnie guys have done some interior plastics work before so finding the right SEM products was easy: Plastic Adhesion Promoter: 39863 Texture Coating: 39853 Color Coat: 15303 In the pic above, you can see the 6-speed trim not wanting to cooperate. I used a heat gun here to bring that section down to the Bonneville base. That's everything right up until paint and install. I hope to have it finished up soon. One nice thing about going with such a common car for the shifter trim is I can replace the boot with a stock or aftermarket part readily available.
  8. I haven't done as much as I would like the past few months but I was able to get a set of euro folding mirrors (RPO DD9) painted, wired, and installed. A while back on another forum I saw an overseas member had bought a donor 92' SSE/i with the euro export package and was going to junk the car once the drivetrain was pulled. I immediately pm'd asking to buy the mirrors. I made an offer without any detailed pics of the condition figuring anything cosmetic could be fixed. The deal took a while to materialize but the mirrors arrived a few months ago. The connectors were cut, 3/4 studs were missing, there were dremel grinding marks, and the paint was faded past the clear. So, they weren't in the best shape but I was more concerned with seizing the opportunity vs. condition at time for purchase. I had my painter buddy repair the dremel marks with plastic filler and paint them with the same Black Onyx 202 paint code as the body. Since they were off a SSE/i, I knew they were going to have a heater circuit but didn't know about the memory function. My non-heated, non-memory, power SLE mirrors have a 3 wire connector and the new DD9's come with a 6 wire connector. For whatever reason the wiring diagram for the power function was missing from my FSM.. Three of the 6 wires matched the colors on the SLE mirror (grey, dark blue, light blue), and there was continuity between 2 of the remaining wires (heater circuit).This only left one wire remaining (green). Next I used a 12v power supply to verify the heater circuit worked. Both did. Then I compared the power vs function of the 3 similarly colored wires between the DD9 and SLE mirrors. Some of the fuctions were the same between the two but not all worked on the DD9. I figured since theere was only one wire remaining on the DD9, it needed to be grounded/powered by at least 2 of the other 3. Turns out if I coupled the grey and the green wire, the DD9 functioned the same as the SLE's. I also decided to extended the heater wires down to the connector so I can add this function later without removing the mirrors. All wires were soldered and epoxy lined shrink tubed. And here's the folding action: >http://youtu.be/L2Auzc7rojU As far as I know I'm the only one in North America with a set of these.
  9. ^^Thanks Did a couple quick fixes. Turns out the pegs were aftermarket and the right one was cracked/welded. I replaced both with stock. The middle plastic chain guard had a broken mounting tab and the rear guard was missing. I picked up some stock ones and replaced the middle guard. I'm not sure if I want to install the rear or not at this point. I also bought a new chain and gears. The rear is a quick change rear with +1 tooth. And I'm also planning on dropping the exhaust to polish it. When I picked up my Duc I was a fan of the ex-box exhaust but it was pretty tarnished.. I looked around, found Stain-Magic and decided to give it a shot. I'm definitely happy with the results. I did try to use stainless polish on the outlet face of the box before this and it did help but didn't get rid of the orange hue. It also made it look a little inconsistent, so I ended up lightly polishing that face after I used the Stain-Magic.
  10. Rough day today.. it started off by not being able to find my stainless MIG wire. All of the welding supply places in my area were closed. I found a spot open on the other side of the city, took my bike, and battled traffic there and back. When I went to head to my buddy's shop, I realized my electrical problem came back.. Pulling that 6a fuse on the way over didn't help, nor did datalogging. When I got there, I tried pulling every fuse in the I/P fuse block and relay center that I could with the engine running with no change. I tried a new alternator, and it does a slightly better job of charging but the problem is still there. Other stuff I disconnected without change: The +12v reference sense wire to the alternator that I added The auto trans rewiring. (shift solenoid dummy bulbs, reverse light, wiring to make it think it's in drive) NB O2 All the aforementioned fuses with the new alt Disconnecting the PCM alternator signal wire stops the pulsing but also the charging (makes sense) and connecting only the voltage sense wire doesn't make it charge. Adding an extra engine ground didn't help. I got a intermittent cam sensor signal code that went away and manipulating the wires running to it didn't change it. I think there's a couple other things we tried.. but my head is kinda fried. While there, I was able to weld in a resonator I bought last year. I needed to center the exhaust better in the rear tunnel to gain clearance for the the resonator. The tips also needed some clearancing and work to get them lined up perfect in the bumper cut outs. The tone is a bit tamer but there's still rasp at high load/rpm. At this point, I think I can live with it. lol.. At least there was some progress today. There were quite a few tuning heads while driving it too.
  11. Today was a good day. I ended up repairing a few other things in the process of diagnosing that voltage issue. I repurposed the following pins at the PCM firewall connector for convince: White C6 (EGR and IAT ground) I didn't see the IAT ground initially. -fixed that White C10 (EGR +5v) Blue E10 (boost control) since this was originally a S1 L67 car Blue F12 (EGR position) Blue F14 (trans temp) All those checked out ok with the exception of the IAT ground. I checked the main fuse block - all fuses ok Passenger side relay center fuses - ok Driver's side I/P fuese block: 1C blown - Airbag - Replaced airbag module under the passenger seat what had water damage - fixed So it turned out not to be the corroded airbag module after all.. 5D A/C - missing - Replaced - fixed And while doing all this I noticed my fans weren't working properly. Everything forward of the firewall worked properly. If I grounded the wire on the relay running to the PCM the fans would turn on. I was getting +12v at the low speed pcm pin but not at the high. So, I rewired the high and all is good. With all the misc stuff out of the way I just started pulling fuses on the driver's I/P fuse block to see if I could isolate the problem. Sure enough when I pulled 6A, the interior light/sunroof/trunk light fuse, the problem went away. I disconnected the connector going to the headliner, trunk light, all interior lights, and still nothing. Then I finally disconnected the puddle lights I hooked up to go on with the interior lights.. That was it. Problem solved. It feels great to move on from this. It's been over a year I think with this issue. I drove the car around a bit, did an oil change and washed it up before I lost sun light.
  12. Thanks! The stainless cleaner didn't come in so I decided to work on the cluster. The MPH gauge had a small crack when I got it.. It eventually went up and diagonally more than 3/4 of the way across the bezel's face. New gauge clusters are 7-800, used are 400+ and every once in a while you'll see one for under 200. The face can't be bought alone and there's no easy way to cut out the convex lens without destroying the bezel. I wasn't trying to spend a few hundred so I've been looking for a compatible gauge off a similar Duc. I found one on ebay month or so ago but it had a crack in the bezel that wasn't mentioned in the description.. Returned without issue though. I've been keeping an eye out on part outs too without much luck in my price range. I found a 2002 Ducati Monster 620 IE gauge on ebay that looked similar and decided to give it a whirl. It was very similar in size/shape but held together much different. The face did not mount to my SR2's bucket and gauges.. What I decided to do was swap my S2R's guts unto the 620's. Some dremeling, cutting, and gluing was required but I was able to make it happen. And since the lens was in rough shape I wet sanded it with 2000 grit and sealed it with 50/50 thinner/urethane. The good thing is none of the S2R parts were modified. So I can swap it all back. The bad news is it's relying on a tight fit of the rubber grommet, and HV-350 (sealant/adhesive) to keep the face on. The HV-350 dries rubbery so it should be good with vibes. And the S2R gauge was slightly larger making the grommet tighter.
  13. I've had my license for about 3 years but never got not a bike till early May. It's an '07 Ducati Monster S2R800 and had 15k on it when I got it. The mods are: K&N panel filter, EX Box exhaust, tail chop, integrated LED tail, and a few deletes. The seller picked it up a year ago and said the valves were adjusted and the timing belts were changed by the original owner but there's no paperwork. It needed a battery, a good cleaning, and the gauge bezel had a crack. He was asking 5200 and I picked it up for 4200, so the final price reflected all that. It is crazy fun, sounds awesome, and I love the style. I did an oil change right after I got it but had the valves adjusted and belts done by a friend of a friend who owns a Euro bike shop. It was tough to pay someone else to do it but I didn't get the bike as a project.. and it was relatively cheap compared to estimates I've seen. I've also been slowly trying to clean it up. The drop mirror had an iron cross on it and I wasn't feeling it so I did this: Full pic here. The bike up it had these odd stains on the side plastics by the seat. Soap and water yielded zero improvement.. I decided to use Forever Black on them and they turned out great. The included cleaner lightened some of the stains but wouldn't remove them no matter how much I scrubbed. But, when I used the dye, it covered it all. Next up is cleaning up the exhaust. I've got about 2k on it and I'm loving every minute of it.
  14. Thanks guys! On the exterior, I'm sure I could cut/buff a lot of the scratches out but it honestly needs more than that in some areas. The glass has to come out to address some rust that popped up after the respray and the headlight conversion needs some touch up. Got lots to do before I revisit that though. I think I may have figured out what's been causing an electrical issue that's been going on for a while now.. The voltage pulses about every second and a half unless I'm datalogging. (weird right?) I went over some of the rewiring I did, fuses, I know it's not the alt, tried grounding out the data pin on the DLC, nothing. But.. The PCM isn't the only thing that uses that data pin. ABS and SIR (airbag) modules do as well. My airbag module is corroded to all hell (been on the to repair/replace list for a while) and it's fuse is blown. I'm going to replace it with a spare I have buried somewhere and repair/replace wiring as necessary. Hopefully that'll happen this weekend. If that works, I'll be beyond thrilled.
  15. I've got a few updates from my last. In May I finally got the car up on truck jack stands, transmission dropped, and took measurements to verify that the hydraulic throw out bearing was not over extending. The measurements checked out ok. (recap - HOTB was leaking from either over extension, bleeding incorrectly, or from the trans sitting in storage for a long period of time?) With the Spec HTOB spacer installed on a new HTOB: Fully extended: 2.51" to engine/trans mounting face Fully compressed: 3.395" to the engine/trans mounting face Both measurements above were taken with the bleeder screw portion of the clutch line installed and bleeder open. Distance from the engine/trans mounting face to the pressure plate fingers: 3.26" So, clutch disengagement happens almost immediately in the HTOB stroke. Or after 3.395-3.26= 0.135" into it's stroke. The plan always was to paint the trans similar to the auto trans I had previously: Man, I miss having a shiny side cover.. With the trans out to replace the hydraulic throw out bearing, there was no excuse not to: Like the first, the color is a bit odd to catch on camera. It doesn't flop and it's very close to anodized purple. And it's back on the road! The car is pretty dirty in the last couple pics.. I was in a bit of a rush to get the test ride in before the thunderstorms hit. I still have some minor electrical stuff to sort out but the drive went well otherwise.
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