Drove my car one night (ran fine), parked it. Then started it the next morning and the engine was ticking. I looked where the ticking was coming from... and the 2 bolts on the rear flange of the passenger side header both had fallen out and the gasket was sliding around. The previous owner used gasket maker and header gaskets too....

That's why thread locker or locking fastners are a good idea on head bolts. Here is a suggestion for the future.

https://www.stage8.com/gm-performance-locking-fasteners/gm-locking-header-bolt-kits/

 

Always check mine before bringing the car out for the year.  Grab a good kit, it is the nature of the beast.

Small blocks with headers usually have the header bolts back out.  I would have to re torque mine every three or four fill ups.  Since the LT1 has aluminum heads it is even more of an issue.  I have stage 8 fasteners on my headers on the truck.  Brodix heads so copper antisieze torqued down with the e clips.  You may have to clean up the washers on them to get them to fit properly around the welds and the pipes.  Two years and they have not had an issue.

8 hours ago, notallthere said:

Small blocks with headers usually have the header bolts back out.  I would have to re torque mine every three or four fill ups.  Since the LT1 has aluminum heads it is even more of an issue.  I have stage 8 fasteners on my headers on the truck.  Brodix heads so copper antisieze torqued down with the e clips.  You may have to clean up the washers on them to get them to fit properly around the welds and the pipes.  Two years and they have not had an issue.

I know from personal experience that notallthere is not "gentle" on his truck either. One legged burn outs are common. So if he says this stuff works, take it to the bank.

Edited September 6, 20196 yr by Frosty

12 hours ago, Frosty said:

I know from personal experience that notallthere is not "gentle" on his truck either. One legged burn outs are common. So if he says this stuff works, take it to the bank.

Nothing wrong with Notallthere’s fix. Still in all my years of racing and street use the cheapest fix, that also makes removal a breeze is this. Get 316 SS hex head bolts the correct length needed for your application and 316 SS lock washers. Torque them properly and they’ll never move. Because of the chrome/nickel percentage content, they expand and contract properly without loosing memory. Plus when you need to remove them they come right out since they don’t gaul in cast steel, cast iron or aluminum.