Jump to content
Forums Gone... but not forgotten!
Pontiac of the Month

Jack Leslie's 1957 Sedan Delivery

2024 April
of the Month

  • Rev up your passion for Pontiacs and join our vibrant community of enthusiasts!

    Whether you're a die-hard fan of classic muscle cars or you've got a soft spot for sleek modern models, you've found your home here at Forever Pontiac. Our community is dedicated to celebrating everything Pontiac, from the iconic GTO to the legendary Firebird and everything in between.

    Unlock access to expert advice, stunning photo galleries, engaging discussions, exclusive events, and more!

    Start your Pontiac journey with us today!

    Sign up now! 🏁

WarShrike's Valvespring Install


Recommended Posts

So after a few issues came to light and another weak spot in the build was revealed it was time to once again pull the valve covers off of my shiny little sixxer.

Apparently the valvesprings were too weak or would prove to be too weak in the long run. The car would not rev very well at WOT (note, I got freight trained by an NA Supra) and we made the decision that the COMP 105's paired with the Intense S1X NA cam and Yella Terra 1.7 rockers just wouldn't cut it.

In steps John (Gectek) from Scoggin Dickey Parts Center for the rescue once again. He recommended the PAC Racing 1218's to replace my current springs. These are rated at 130# and support up to .600" of lift. He also helped teach me how to replace the valvesprings while the heads were still in the car.

The valvespring compressor we used can be a very volatile little bugger when you have a spring compressed all the way. Please be sure to use caution while operating such equipment!

Tools:

-Lighting

-Basic toolset with sockets and box end wrenches

-Ramps/stands or a lift so you can safely get under the car if you inevitably drop something + perform oil change after

-Valvespring Compressor

-Pen magnet (valve lock retrieval)

-Air compressor and spark plug fitting if you have old valve stem seals

-Socket that fits the crankshaft bolt to rotate assembly

-First Aid kit

Materials:

-Valve cover gaskets (I have to use two pairs due to the spacers I have to run).

-Oil for a full change + filter. I run Castrol GTX + the AC Delco PF52 (larger filter, don't get the PF52E as it is a plastic filter element).

-Assembly lube or a spare quart of oil to coat the rockers/valve stems/pushrods upon reassembly.

-RTV gasket sealant (red high temp is fine).

The tear down process:

-Battery disconnected

-Alternator brace removed + wiring disconnected from alternator

-Fuel lines disconnected (easier to work with them out of the way)

-Spark plug wires disconnected

-Coil packs removed (mine are on firewall so I only removed two)

-Serpentine belt removed for ease of rotating assembly

-Valve covers removed

100_1153.jpg

-Rockers and pushrods removed

Organization is the key!

100_1145.jpg

100_1146.jpg

We already started removing the first pair of valvesprings in this shot. You can see the valve spring compressor we had to use. Not the preferred compressor but we had to use it due to the size of the stud holes I have for my rockers.

100_1143.jpg

The CLAW!

100_1152.jpg

The tray I used to hold the locks, retainers and old valvesprings.

100_1144.jpg

After the whole ordeal!

100_1149.jpg

100_1147.jpg

Send in the replacements!

100_1150.jpg

All Lubed up!

100_1154.jpg

I rotated the engine to where one bank was on the base circle of the cam (pushrods all the way down) so I could tighten the rockers down properly and not risk tightening down the rockers incorrectly.

I then rotated it a few times and retightened them according to spec. For those with stock rockers, I would recommend using new bolts unless you've bought the reusable type.

Here's a comparison between the COMP 105's and the PAC 130's.

PAC is on the left COMP is on the right.

TOP

100_1155.jpg

SIDE

Notice the difference in height!?

100_1156.jpg

BOTTOM

100_1157.jpg

After reinstalling the accessories, I primed the oil pump and then fired it up to let it idle for a minute until it warmed up. Shut it down and then drained the oil and replaced the filter and put in the new oil. Take it for a drive and make sure everything looks spot on! Make sure to check for leaks and double check your valve covers that you've tightened them properly after the RTV and gaskets have settled.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tired of these Ads? Register Today!

Updated first post, not all of it ended up in there so I added the last part of the writeup.

Wheels are getting powdercoated, my dad got a great match on the color with the Z06 Speedlines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the PAC springs are definitely gonna be better than those comps if pairing anything more than a moderate cam with a higher ratio rocker. Those rockers look like floating ones (no pedestal? not self adjusting)... assuming these are in a 3800 with hydraulic lifters? If so, the lash might not be adjusted properly. IE you aren't supposed to do them a bank at a time, they should be done one cylinder at a time. When I installed the crane rockers on my engine the directions said to rotate the engine until the intake pushrod started moving up, then adjust the lash on the exhaust rocker, and visa versa for the intake rockers. That's how you know you are on the lowest part of the base circle to set your lifter pre-load. :rolleyes: It might be fine. Just lettin' ya know they might not all have the same amount of pre-load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, the PAC springs are definitely gonna be better than those comps if pairing anything more than a moderate cam with a higher ratio rocker. Those rockers look like floating ones (no pedestal? not self adjusting)... assuming these are in a 3800 with hydraulic lifters? If so, the lash might not be adjusted properly. IE you aren't supposed to do them a bank at a time, they should be done one cylinder at a time. When I installed the crane rockers on my engine the directions said to rotate the engine until the intake pushrod started moving up, then adjust the lash on the exhaust rocker, and visa versa for the intake rockers. That's how you know you are on the lowest part of the base circle to set your lifter pre-load. :lol2: It might be fine. Just lettin' ya know they might not all have the same amount of pre-load.

Very well informed post here :)

Yes I had some help from somebody shy of being a master at the trade. He helped me do the preload on them. They're stud mounted rockers and are paired. We got the preload down pat, per cylinder as well.

Now to get the tuning lined up so I can get to go WOT again :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, well good deal then. Plan on doing some dyno time with it? Would be interested to see the results of the cam + rockers with springs that will let you rev it up some. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, well good deal then. Plan on doing some dyno time with it? Would be interested to see the results of the cam + rockers with springs that will let you rev it up some. :rolleyes:

Yeah that's in the works. I went to the dyno with the fresh build but only did 130 tq and 105 hp due to the transmission taking a giant leap of death.

Now have a race prepped trans and beefier springs. Should be golden now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Tired of these Ads? Purchase Enhanced Membership today to remove them!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.