kaymo

and my two favorite things

yay FORD LOL Found On Road Dead Fast Only Rolling Downhill

i thought that cable only controlled the kickdown as in if you punch it and it downshifts. how would this make the trans slip?

if you dont smell gas, then check all your vacuum lines. are those cars MAF or MAP? i havent looked at many grandams. if its MAF check your intake piping for leaks hey i just realized how close grandam and grandma is..... HAHA awesome

ONLY PUT IN FLUID IF ITS LOW!!!! DO NOT CHANGE FLUID IF IT SMELLS BURNT (if you are trying to limp it around) for the reasons prescribed in my previous post. you CAN try and change the fluid and there is a SMALL possibility your trans will come back, but almost always if its already slipping and it smells burnt, changing the fluid will only make your car stationary. i did a guy's chevy truck w/turbo350 trans and i warned him that most likely it would just make the trans give up 100% he said change it anyway and i did. then he tried to not pay me when the car didnt move afterwards. I WARNED HIM one day karma will flatten all his tires....

ok i forgot to ask, when you floor it and you get the bog, it could be from too much or too little fuel. if its too much, it would dump it out the back and you would smell rich exhaust. bad spark would allow unburnt fuel to dump out the back as well. do you smell gas in the exhaust?

your torque converter CAN go out, but more than likely its your CLUTCHES AND BANDS. didnt know your auto had clutches huh? check your fluid, what color is it, and does it smell burnt? dont bother trying to change it yet, because once an auto goes, changing fluid only makes it worse see your clutches and bands have friction surfaces on them. when they wear down and wear out, the bits o friction end up in your fluid. new fluid simply cleans what friction surface was left OFF since auto trans fluid cleans so well. the band in your trans is like a belt that tightens around a drum to engage a certain gear. this get out of adjustment and need tightening sometimes, but since it does it in any gear im gonna guess that tightening the band will do you no good. you need to look for a GOOD automatic transmission rebuild place near you. find out what he will rebuild you trans for, and how much to remove and replace. it may save you a good bit of money if you can take it out yourself and take it to him. (id say 350 to 400 is fair if he doesnt remove and replace, 6-700 if he does) also, if you want upgraded parts for your trans, i suggest WHATEVER IT TAKES they make bulletproof parts for auto transmissions. my teacher in auto tech was a transmission wizard and had me order my 700r4 parts from there. he told me what to get, and with the parts i got my trans is rated for a touch over 1100 hp i went overkill because its going in a big 4wd truck GOOD LUCK

perhaps your external oil gauge is leaking onto yor engine? or the senor as chaos said. and if you accel, of course you're gonna see it behind you. not from oil pressure, but from the air moving around and thru your car

well i would think people who work on cars dont HAVE to have your exact car to help figure out your problem. do you only take your car to a mechanic who HAS a GA? and it depends, how much acceleration can one get in their driveway? lol anyway, a bad idle valve usually effects the idle. hesitation and horrible accel is usually spark problems (thats in general, not just your engine) and "common sense the air valve" isnt a sentence either. work on that engrish you might have to give us more info than "bad accel". is it low end accel? is it top end? is it both? when it bogs down is it getting too much fuel, or too much air?

are there no pick-a-parts where you live? a whole running long block can be had for less than a couple hundred, just gotta pull yourself. cheapest way to get a car back on the road. if its just head gasket tho, you should be fine, but beware, if the head or block is warped, its still cheaper to get JY motor remove head from block, scrape all headgasket off, put the head back on and snug bolts. then try to fit thin feeler gauge all around. if it fits in places and not in others, dont bother with it. or you could do the old school way of decking a head/block. sandpaper and large true flat bar of thick steel. altho thats mainly for aluminum, cast would take forever to do like that

dude, you must be REALLY out of breath. there are these things that separate ideas so that they can be read easier. they are called periods. they are not just what makes your girlfriend bitchy once a month. there is even a rule (yes i read them) that says "Please use full sentences like you are chatting in a formal email." its hard to break down your posts because you run one idea into the next. from what i can tell, and what you have said, you just want something to build and learn on. also it seems you do NOT want a whole car, you just want to start it on a stand. if you are going to spend 250 on a stand alone to run this engine, i would first ask you if there are any schools that offer automotive tech classes, because by the time you spent 250 on the stand, and whatever on the motor, you could have probably signed up for a REAL engine building class and learned from good teachers. if class is not an option or what you want to do, i understand. you can still learn much from tearing down and rebuilding an engine on your own. but before you go out and blow 250 on a special stand, think about what you are investing. that is alot for a radiator and some gauges. depending on what engine you get, your stand will probably require special or custom mounts (dont forget most engines use the transmission as a mount as well so are you getting a trans too?), who knows if the gauges will hook up the same to your engine. that and how many engines are you going to build and test on this stand? if this is the only one, thats kinda silly to spend that much. and if you are working on cars, you wouldn't use that engine test stand. you're gonna build the engine and put it back in the car it came out of! if you really want to do the stand thing, i would get your motor first, with engine mounts already attached, and build one out of WOOD. its cheaper, its easier than welding metal, you can easily build it strong enough, and add more wood if you dont the first time, and when you're done you can take it apart, build something else, or burn it to keep you warm next winter. radiators can be had cheap and a pickapart junkyard, and a gauge set from harbor freight is 20 dollars!! now instead of 250, you have spent more like 100 on rad, gauges, and enough wood to build a sturdy frame. hell you might be cheaper than that! now you have extra cash to spend on the motor. As for WHAT motor you are getting... in the end its yours. it doesnt matter what i rant and rave about, or what anyone else says. you are going to do what you are going to do. So, to all the guys giving me shit about offering advice, BITE ME. i'm offering advice from my personal experience and he can take it or leave it, but i dont like getting told im doing something wrong when im simply offering my opinion that DOES come from personal experience and not just personal FEELINGS and AGAIN. i NEVER told him to build a honda!! i never told him to take one on as a project! i simply meant there are BETTER NA FWD 4cyls out there! im sorry i left out NATURALLY ASPERATED when i said this before. yes there are better turbo/supercharged 4cyl engines out there. basically i hope he steers towards a chevy v8 simply because its an easy engine to build and learn on, cheap to build, and one could actually make one's money back off it in the end. building practically ANYTHING ELSE would probably be MUCH harder to make your money back from. unless you already have someone specifically looking for THAT motor rebuilt. Hey, maybe you CAN find someone who wants a motor they HAVE rebuilt, and is willing to let you do it to learn on! that would be the BEST situation because it makes the motor FREE. MTZvibe- did you not read what i said about subie? let me requote myself "just like the people who do 4wd and 4cyl best is SUBARU!!! altho some say an EVO would be better" i think subie makes the best 4wd 4cyl. thats my opinion. my evidence-ken block. thats all i have to say about that. and i never said they were best for racing or best for rally or best for anything really. i just said they were best at making a 4wd 4cyl. i could have meant best 4wd 4cyl snow beater for my mom's grocery getter. Subie makes a good 4cyl and awd system, and i dont think anyone can argue THAT. but my main point was, that if someone WANTED a 4cyl AWD to build, and i said AMC EAGLE, i should be THEN beaten with a stick, because the subie and evo would kick its ass up and down the street. or dirt road. as for Honda. of COURSE it can't do anything good in any other class but n/a fwd in the 1/4 mile. THEY AREN'T MADE TO BE GO FAST IN A STRAIGHT LINE. that being said, there are PLENTY of turbo hondas that are QUITE competitive in drag racing. and to say there aren't any is silly since last i checked, two hondas dominated the fwd drag competition.... "i have not once seen a fwd honda in any Road Racing stomp a cobalt, mitsu fwd, or anything else." well im sorry you havent seen it, but it happens a lot. a 1st gen CRX will out handle a NEW LOTUS ELISE. not as fast in a straight (if its not swapped) but it will catch up and pass in the corners. thats not my opinon, thats just fact. happened at VIR not too long ago. ok, lets STOP talking about honda now, because i never intended it to be a part of the discussion like this. i was simply trying to make the point of there are BETTER things to start with than a J-body's 4cyl THATS IT

ROTFL this thread is full of win

actually, i think you car really CAN pull off mudflaps. as you said, you have a stock stance, which is pretty high. i like it

helper bags? you have airbags in your springs? or air shocks? i saw the air shocks but i didnt feel like airing up every time i put a load in the trunk

SAM is selling a great amp+speaker combo for a friend, also has some amp wiring as well. you should contact him about perhaps a package deal. Rockford fosgate is the tops! http://foreverpontiac.com/index.php?showtopic=756&hl= thats a perfect little bumpy package. maybe ditch the box and go for a different one. i would ask him to seperate the box and speakers and just ship you the speakers and amp, and go get a box from your local jockey lot/flea market

well if you know that, why havent you found the leaky valve cover yet? LOL so do you mean the oil smoke ISNT coming out the tailpipe, its coming FROM the engine bay FROM the hood? yeah thats valve covers.

ah hey guys, didnt jedi say we didnt need to badger new guys about pics? im sure one pic request is enough...

wow you cant see it in the pics, or were they taken before the grey fire? LOL

you should check out my progression thread. i have a 94 sunchicken. i havent had it running long (starter went bad) but i've already done some decent modding to it. you would not believe the difference a port and polish does for the intake and head! dont worry theres pics to show you what i mean! i havent seen your radio post yet, but i am putting my cd player in the heater control area, and relocating the heater controls to the factory radio position. havent finished yet, and its a bitch, but it would look alot better than bolting it to the bottom of whats there, which is one of the two other ways to do it. ill go post in that thread now. edit- wait, was that this forum? i cant find it if it is. anyway, the third way to do it is find a car that had the center console piece. a cdplayer will bolt into it and look stock. i would have gone that route but im using that area for cupholders about raising the rear. you might be interested in the rear shock conversion im doing, since the ass end does like to sag ALOT. perhaps when i finish i'll sell you some shock adapters so you too may bolt in some suburban shocks!! its more than shocks really tho since the shocks im using also have coilover helper springs. im not sure about where my height will come out yet but i should be getting to work on that in the next few days! linky to my thread: http://foreverpontiac.com/index.php?showtopic=477 also, are you coupe, sedan, or vert?

shouldnt be at that many miles... unless he put sand in the oil something is wrong. perhaps a seal somewhere? if you have blowby, your oil would probably smell like gas as well. and be thinner from the gas. im not familiar with this engine but id start with a leakdown test to eliminate rings. if it is the rings, i would be going to chevy and saying WTF. it might be out of warranty, but an engine shouldnt be burning that much oil at that many miles. id take it to chevy and start bitching about lemon laws and how your tax dollars bailed chevy out

alright im sorry for not being more specific. i hate CAVALIERS. i think the g6 is a very nice car. but its not a four banger either. and its not a J-body. so its not awful. i HAVE a j-body. i KNOW how awful it is. thats why i said dont do it. i was not trying to convince him he should take a honda as a project. if you think i meant that, you arent getting what im saying. all i meant is, the people who do front wheel drive four cyl the BEST is honda. there is hardly any other FWD four cyl worth building. period. just like the people who do 4wd and 4cyl best is SUBARU!!! altho some say an EVO would be better but if you ask me what you should get if you want a four door four wheel drive, and i come back with this: id expect you to laugh me out of the room. if you're gonna get JUST a motor and build it, GET A V8 CHEVY building a four cyl on a stand to not even put in a car is retarded. unless you ACTUALLY find someone who needs this type of motor for their car, to you its a paperweight. building a v8 on a stand that you dont plan on putting in a car, IS STILL A BIG ASS V8 that you could go sell to some (not being racist, being real) black guy with a big box chevy and a worn out 305 he wants to replace. then you can take the money you just made and start another project, instead of throwing money at something you cant even use that probably wont even sell. because building a motor costs money, unless you are just tearing down and putting back together. which if thats the case, you should just go find whatever FREE junk motor you can, whether its a HONDA or FORD or WTF ever! hell ive got a junk honda motor you can have to tear down and reassemble. ill even give you a manual to go with it! i wasnt trying to do the whole "honda is better" thing here guys. im just saying if you're gonna do this, do it smart. pick something you wont have to pay anything for, or if you do pay for it, pick something you can make your money back off of and more! if you pay for it, and make nothing off it from rebuilding it, you have thrown money away that you could have just used to sign up for an automotive engine building class. where they let you do tear down and build ups of THEIR motors, and teach you things as well. whats wrong with a chevy v8 for a starter? its cheaper to get and cheaper to build and in the end you can sell it easy. esp if you're not putting it in anything. how come i like v8's? because they are compact and make lots of power and destroy lots of fuel. why do i like hondas? because they are compact, make lots of power for their size, and handle better than any similar car of the same year (if not much newer cars) and because i actually have to PAY for the fuel i destroy. no mix? one or the other? first off, whats wrong with having a honda DD and a chevy v8 powered weekender? gas prices deem that the best option.. secondly, there are a bunch of v8 powered hondas out there, dont believe me check youtube LOL but lastly, i KNOW you're not trying to say that honda doesnt know HOW to build a big engine, because ill just have to lay this whopper on ya ever heard of honda's oval piston engine? sure its just a little bike engine, but notice any similarities to a v8?

if it runs good and has good tires, and would pass most inspections, its worth 1k looking at the pics, hellz yeah id get it for 1k. i love the wheels. that seems pretty damn good for 1k not a big fan of the 3.4L... but hey if it gets out of its own way then go for it.

i like them. they look cool and indeed would work well for those of us who do drive on dirt(y) roads. but in my opinion, to buy them is dumb. you can buy similar plastic and cut them to your own shape. they dont have to be quite as big and therefore not as ricey

NOOOOO FWD SUXOR this is coming from a HONDA guy. DONT do a FWD!! if you are gonna build it and its FWD it better be a honda. If you're gonna build a motor and its not a honda, IT BETTER BE RWD or hell, do a RWD ecotec! just dont waste your time building a FWD motor. as soon as you're putting out real power you realize you start having traction problems, plus whatever problems come from having an american FWD car. not to offend anyone, and im sure i will here, but AMERICAN FWD CARS SUXOR. go buy a yank tank. do it. do it now. if you want a front wheel drive four cyl, GO GET A HONDA. they are the only ones that do it right! if you wanted a 4cy awd, id be telling you to get a subie. if you wanted a mid engine car id tell you go get a fiero and swap it. seriously tho, if you get a J-body i will never stop making fun of you. J-bodys SUCK

believe it or not that really is a magnaflow muffler. just quite rusty. if i had gotten a new universal it would have been TOO SHINY and would have looked out of place on this POS car. the tip i made for it is shiny enough!! and still stealthy! this one is just right i think. it indeed looks quite stock, but its definitely a lot larger and better flowing than the stock muffler. the stock muffler's exit was smaller than its in pipe.... that cant be any good LOL