TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Yes you can run a breather instead of a PCV in the valve cover.. Might have to zip tie a rag around it so you don't wind up with oily film all over everything under the hood... Just out of curiosity what are the cam specs..does it have a lot of overlap..?? Would suggest opening the spark plug gap to .045 with the HEI... Have cut this short ......Wife just got home....Will elaborate more on timing in a couple hours.....

Back in 2012 was building an engine and used a custom grind solid roller from Comp Cams (260 duration @.50..with a 770 lift...109° lobe seperation) as we had been using Comp Cams for years in everything we built with no issues...(we were actually an authorized dealer)..Did everything we normally do when breaking in an engine..Wiped out the cam within the first minute of the initial start up...Upon inspection. We concluded that the lobes weren't hardened like they should have been...Called them up told them what the deal was then sent it back to them...They ground us another one...Again the same issue wiped out almost immediately...Long story short...Went through 3 of them before we got one that worked like it is supposed to...With the spring package that we always use.....Wasn't long after that they called us and said if they were going to warranty their cams anymore... We couldn't use the valve spring package we normally used and to use way weaker springs for the initial run in....Since then whenever we're using a really radical profile in a high dollar race engine we will use the weak springs for the cam break in...However in a run of the mill street engine we will use the valve springs that we are actually going run...Because as Pontiaction eluded to.. It is a pain in the ass to reinstall them on an assembled engine.... Have not had any cam issues since and still use them (Comp Cams) today..and will continue to use them......

Some builders do and some builders don't......Realistically the best thing to do is contact Comp cams and do what they reccomend......

First thing is to make sure that all the battery connections are clean and tight and has a good ground....If all that checks OK then check the connections at the starter solenoid...Look for bad or corroded connections broken wires ETC.. Use a 12 volt test light to verify that you actually have power to the solenoid....should have 12 volts on the main battery terminal on the solenoid all the time....if you have power there then take the test light and ground it to the engine block... Place the other end on the solenoid terminal with the small wires (the S terminal)...have someone turn the key to start the engine if it lights up that means that the switch is functioning correctly....If it does not light up that means the the problem could be the ignition switch itself...Next thing is to put the test light across both the small poles (on the solenoid) have someone try to start the engine again... the light should come on...If it doesn't that indicates a bad solenoid....if all that checks OK.....Then the issue is probably the starter motor....Since it has been sitting for years...the brushes might be sticking..If that is the case sometimes you can take a hammer and lightly tap on the starter to see if they free up...(Will probably be full of corrosion) then try to start again....(Try it a few times) If that doesn't work you will have to remove the starter and either replace it or disassemble it and repair It....(is a repairable/rebuildable unit)....... If you do get the engine to roll over....Would highly suggest that you take the fuel line from the tank to the inlet on the fuel pump loose and run a short hose from a seperate clean container with fresh gas to the inlet of the fuel pump so when it does start you don't suck 30 years worth of crap from the gas tank into the carburetor.......

We (My dad,My brother and I) Gave my 6 year old nephew a tool set and an old completely disassembled ..(Even had the freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs out of it.... distributor and carburetor were completely disassembled too... pistons separated from the rods..etc.. and all the parts thrown into one box)... 348 Chevy engine and a 1958 GM shop manual for Christmas that year(1997).....Over a period of about 3 years..He managed to get it reassembled correctly and make it run with very minimal help from us..( loved it and still says it was the best gift he ever got) ..Went on to graduate top of his class at UTI and is now a very successful mechanic for Duke Energy.......

Have raced circle track (NASCAR Modifieds) a few times in sub freezing weather....takes a few extra green flag laps to get the tires hot but once you get some heat in the tires it's business as usual...The hardest part is figuring out the starting air pressure in the tires to keep the stagger correct as the tires heat up......The engines love the cold air and make some really good power.......as opposed to an 85° 90% humidity...Saturday night.....

Wrongway Is this what you are looking for..??...Hope this helps... Let me know.....

The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column at the bottom toward the floor...and is activated by the locking rod coming down from the key /lock cylinder..Might have to drop the steering column down to access it... The only wires that run inside the column up toward the steering wheel key/lock cylinder would be for the key buzzer ,horn and the turn signals...All the power wires for the starting system will be plugged in at that switch at the bottom.....

Haven't forgotten Ya'll expecting my AC manual today.....

I completely understand.... Will just leave it at that..........

Spoke to a family member of mine a little while ago...Who has the actual (not a reprint) GM 1963 pontiac Air Conditioning manual...Covers all the Pontiac models for that specific year..and is very detailed... Lives in Seattle and is going to ship it to me ASAP...I should have it here in a couple days....

The red inner fenders were used (but not always) in the GM A body cars with the top engine options....Like a W30.. 442 olds or a Ram Air GTO..Stage 1 GS Buick..Etc..

Glad to here everything is working as it should..... The main battery terminal on the back of the alternator is supposed to be hot all the time and should show the same voltage as the battery even when everything is turned off...As that wire goes directly via a junction block with no interruption to the battery.....The diodes in the alternator act like a one way gate and they keep the battery power contained...from feeding back through the whole electrical system and killing the battery when everything is turned off.... The test you performed when you put the test light between the ground cable and the negative post on the battery is one way to confirm if the diodes in the alternator are working correctly and not backfeeding thru the system and killing the battery...had the light came on when you did that it would have indicated an unwanted power draw in the system ( like maybe the glove compartment light staying on all the time or something) and or a bad diode in the alternator..... On newer cars though...They are designed to have a very slight power draw....When everything is turned off....For the radio memory...Clock...PCM etc...

It appears to me looking at the schematic that the F terminal on the regulator does connect to the F terminal on the alternator....The #3 terminal on the regulator runs through the ignition switch...and would be hot with the key turned on...The #4 terminal is used on cars with a radio.... A condenser is connected to #4 and is not used if there is no condenser.....this is the diagram hope you can see it clearly

I Have an actual GM factory pontiac manual from 1963....(not a reprint) has at least 15 pages worth of info on how to trouble shoot ,test and repair the whole complete charging system...Adjust the voltage regulators Both types standard and transistorized voltage regulators...Complete wiring schematics.....Tried to take photos but they ain't coming out clear and legable with my phone..I have a way that I can scan the pages and send them directly to your Email..If that is something you would be interested in...

Does your car have a standard voltage regulator or is it a transistor voltage regulator....

Sounds like the battery may have a dead cell in it..When you put a multi meter on it...With nothing turned on does the battery show a 12 volt surface charge..?? Then with the multi meter still on it have someone turn the key to start the engine if the voltage drops way off...like maybe to 10.8 volts or less..That would indicate a dead cell or two in the battery.. I noticed that you said that according to the volt guage that it it showing almost 12 volts..If that is the case the alternator won't keep the battery charged enough to keep up with the electrical load and will slowly kill the battery...If the alternator is not putting out between 13.8 to 14.5 volts it will not keep the battery sufficiently charged...The easiest way to check is to get the engine running then take the multi meter and check the voltage right at the back of the alternator...Place the red lead on the big stud where the main battery wire hooks to the alternator then take the ground or black lead and ground it right to the case if it checks OK there..13.8 to 14.5 volts...any less it won't keep up...(Anymore than that indicates a voltage regulator problem)...If it checks within those parameters the the alternator is probably OK...One other check to do with the key off...Is to take a regular 12 volt test light...Pull the ground cable off the battery..Then put the test light between the ground cable and the negative post on the battery if the test light lights up... That shows that there is an unwanted power draw in the electrical system somewhere... Could also indicate a bad diode in the alternator... Next thing to do with the engine still running check the voltage right at the battery..If the voltage there is less than the alternator is putting out....look at your cables really close to be sure that they are not dirty at the connections or broken and is properly grounded (the heavier guage wire you use for the battery the better) ......

Can't go wrong with the ceramic coating they look good...Plus the added benefit of....Cooler under hood temperature....

Could very well be a wheel bearing...As far as low traction light I agree with Frosty and Last Indian..one of the wheel speed sensors..Unless there is something obvious you will have to hit it with a scanner to tell which wheel it is...

Are you sure it is a bearing..?? And not a bent or flat spotted wheel or something along those lines..Is there any unusual grinding or roaring noise when driving straight or rounding curves ETC....??

Beautiful car...The Silver and Black is a really stunning color combination......

If you're having a hard time locating the wiper motor assembly....Or would like to keep the original...It is a serviceable unit and can be repaired...took photos with my phone hope you can see them OK...Hopefully this helps....

Wrongway Could you tell if the idler pulley is turning..?? Or am I just old and blind..???

Looks like the tensioner pulley is the one making the noise..I Couldn't really tell but at about 46 seconds there was a brief shot of one of other pulleys not turning...??? Lower right hand side...or am I just crazy .....Won't let me replay without starting completely over.....looked at again Is the pulley on the far right turning...Grooved idler pulley maybe...????? Can't really tell...