TWO LANE BLACK TOP

Would also highly recommend..(If the Budget allows)..That you do a line bore...Then square the decks up to insure that the rotating assembly is running square and perpendicular to the centerline of the crankshaft and not working against each other...Also do a real good balance on the crankshaft....Even in a stock type rebuild squaring and balancing everything up..Will free up a couple of extra ponies and make for sewing machine smooth operation and longevity....If done properly...Also stay away from chrome piston rings (Can take forever to seat among other things)...As for the cam..going with a hydraulic roller is also an excellent upgrade....Don't forget good Quality freeze plugs....

That's an excellent observation....Good eye....

Is it possible that the mounts on the frame are not the correct ones or maybe the rubber in them worn and collapsed....?? Then again may have had spacers in them from the factory...But Honestly I can't say for sure.... .Don't really want to give any bad info.....

If the car is on a lift with the wheels hanging with no weight on the suspension that gap between the sway bar and the end links is normal..When the car is on the ground with all the weight on the suspension there should be no gap at all....The only reason that I can think of for the shorter end links would be an attempt to change the tension on the sway bar for handling purposes...(good or bad)....

Wasn't trying to repeat the same question....Guess we were both asking at the same time....LOL.... Do agree with the spring spacer observation....

Is the car suspended on a lift with the suspension unloaded...Or sitting on the ground with the weight sitting on the suspension or loaded..??

It's the Pontiac name for the the cruise control.. (Magi-Cruise throttle control)....

I always just use an old yoke..Am pretty sure could get a plug thru any auto parts supply house.....or maybe use an old plastic cup over the tail shaft with a hose clamp on it.....or something along those lines....

Agree with Sprint 6...If all other towing options are unavailable...Make sure you pull the driveshaft out it....Towing it with the rear wheels on the ground with the trans in neutral over an extended distance will cause the trans to overheat because the trans fluid isn't being circulated and being cooled thru the radiator...Like it would be if the engine is running.... Will also have to plug the rear of the trans to keep all the fluid from running out.....

Very cool car....Definitely got to love the Firebird Formula......Rare and fast.....

Obviously these pics aren't from the 70s...Don't have any idea if these cars are survivors from that era or were done more recently.....

Am 99% sure they weren't the Zinger cars...I remember those very well...Used to see them at the yearly custom car show in Greensboro..in the mid to late 70s..(the Dodge van was always my favorite)..They are all still very cool ....Even though I'm not a kid anymore... The cars that I'm referring to... Were actually road worthy cars with the center section behind the front seat cut out then shortened until the rear glass and package shelf were at the rear of the front seat...My brother has a serious Hot Rod and Car Craft magazine collection...Some of them dating back to the late 60s early 70s...Will get up with him in the next few days and see if I can look through them and maybe find that particular issue or issues with some of those cars in them... While we are on the funky cars subject...Does anyone remember the bubble gum that came with the Rat Fink type car stickers called Odd Rods...Used to have them all...Mine disappeared years ago...Suspect my Mom might have thrown them away along with alot of other cool kid stuff.....

Seems like I remember when I was a kid in the early 70s..That shortened wheelbase cars like that were sort of a fad..Mostly on the West Coast...but never really caught on...(thankfully)..Recall Hot Rod magazine ran a couple of photo articles on some tri5 chevys that were done like that..Then the custom van craze really took off right about then or shortly there after... Of course when I was 10 thought they were really cool...(shortened wheelbase cars)..Today not so much....

I personally Find it amazing that today's technology...Was the stuff of science fiction when I was a kid...Now it's an everyday reality......

Were the cylinder heads resurfaced and checked to be sure that there was no cracks....?? The aluminum cylinder heads are also Very prone to warping especially if has been run hot and should not be reinstalled unless it has been cut to insure a flat surface for the head gasket to seal properly....Also no cracks in the deck of the block or in maybe one of the cylinders....It is also very possible possible to have an internal crack in one of those areas....and not have any water in the engine oil...... One other thing...The head bolts are torque to yield and should not be reused.....Once they have been stretched (torqued) they will not have their clamping power anymore....Will allow the head to crawl around or not seal even if it has been cut......

I've never really been a MOPAR guy...But I do like it.... Wonder if the transmission will fall out of it at around 70K miles.....

Yes..If the interior lighting options are able to be changed...It will tell you exactly how to do it in the owners manual that came with the vehicle.....

Should be able to consult owners manual...Should tell you how to change the interior lighting options....

Ram Air cars are definitely cool...Really hard to beat their performance for the price.....

The earlier 389s were reverse flow cooling...(Different cylinder heads and intake manifolds among other things) Pretty sure but not 100%....That they changed to a conventional coolant flow sometime in or around late 1964 or early 1965....???

Without listening to the engine first hand..Would be almost impossible to even try to guess what it might be....

What year GTO..?? Would start with five quarts..Then check the oil level..Then add if necessary until the dipstick indicates full...Make sure the oil filter is full before checking....Don't overfill...

Might not be a bad idea to replace the rubber lines that run to the calipers from the hard lines.... Cats are cool..Have a couple myself....

This may sound like a stupid question... Am not trying to be condescending... Are you 100% sure that the system is full including the heater core..?? Something that might be worth looking at... Check the hot water valve that regulates the water flow into the heater core (controlled by the temp switch on the HVAC panel on the dash) for proper operation or for some sort of blockage or maybe sticking or something.....Are the heater hoses routed correctly (inlet usually the top hose ) going into the heater core from the engine and or radiator..and not squeezed off or kinked somewhere...Or possibly installed backwards...