Last Indian

Fond these, maybe their good, maybe not. https://www.opgi.com/lemans/GT03435/

Frosty, if you go to their home page than pick products from the menu there is page after page of products, but mix in are the battery cables. Some are for 1972 455 cid Cutlasses & Skylarks, maybe those will work better?

Well, first off try this place. https://www.americanautowire.com/ they appear to carry both side & top mount & both positive & ground. That said would you want to try something different? Something a little more; well me😁. If so let me know and we can pursue that course. If not I’m confident the standard type cables are adequate.

Yup! Those are good, the plastic heads insulate the wires from ground!

I would agree with Ringo! The 3.4 like the 3.8 is sensitive to exhaust configuration! What you might think sounds good can actually hurt power! If you want a more robust sound without losing power look at exhaust manifolds, both sides, as well as the down pipe/catalytic converter, but the exhaust after the cat leave alone. There are aftermarket down pipes/cats that can double the cfm of the OEM cat. There are also some aftermarket down pipes with no cat. The rev limiter is there for the very reason you what to remove it. When you free rev any engine, not in gear, you always run the risk of floating a valve! And that will cost you dearly!

You don’t need to go expensive with the wire looms. Just something that allows you to keep the wires where you what them, but I would suggest plastic ones. Using metal ones can cause a shorting between wires when interconnected. Especially when rpms increase! When rpms increases resistance for the spark can increase. This resistance can sometimes jump through the insulation of the wire taking the path of least resistance, the metal wire loom, causing a basic short to the other wires! While this is a completely different setup than your here’s what mine looks like.

I don’t know, a snowman, aka frozen water & electricity doesn’t sound like a good idea! That said, I would look for a set of right angle AC delco wire that would work. It’s hard to beat AC’s. The one thing you might consider, if you don’t already have them, are good wire looms! Ones that attach to the valve covers as well as ones that fasten to the wires down closer to the boots, but not metal!

True, true! My “69” Z was that car! As a new car it was a great all around car! Quick, fast and semi comfortable for a sports car. Yet over the 35 years of ownership I did end up going to far from a comfort perspective, or at least so my wife said. 😞 A 600hp mid 10 second car that pulled 1 & a quarter Gs on a 300 ft skid pad wasn’t that great for the street except for short durations. 3800 rpm @ 55mph 6 mpg. A fairly stock exhaust that you could hear coming due to the rumble 2 blocks away. All were part of the reason I sold it after 35 years of ownership!

Nothing wrong with that!!

As a side bar, a couple of things you can do to improve 2 bolt main performance is this. Replace the bolts with studs! The proper studs will be stronger & the corresponding nuts will be stronger. Also use permatex aviation form a gasket on the stud threads on insertion of the stud. It is at this time you should torque the studs independent of the caps. Then when you install the caps over the studs apply this same permatex to the top threads, install the nut and torque the cap.

Well actually a 2 bolt main can handle 600 hp & 7000 rpm, but there is a lot that goes with that statement! If you’re talking racing? Than no! If you’re talking street once in a while then yes. Main cap flex in a 2 bolt starts at just under 600 hp and about 6000 rpm. The advantage of this type of build is more low end power, if done right. The disadvantage is if you get over zealous & fuel economy. So in general I would skip the girding and just do a good build.

I love it buddy! Looks to have been a good time for all!! Does anyone have a wipe, I think I wet myself 😮!

Hope the weather holds for you guys! Terrible about the chloride, I feel for you! Why don’t they use road oil? Not that that makes any less of a mess, but at least it’s not corrosive!

I hope you guys have great weather and a even better time. I thought I might make it up there to see you all this year, but that just doesn’t look like it’s in the cards, sorry!

Well I’m JustA saying Happy Birthday to JustA6! Way to go, one more year and you can hit good old Uncle Sam up for your inheritance!😁 Happy Birthday buddy!!

Ok, let’s back this up for a minute. First it is possible that you don’t have to much blow-by! If you don’t have oil depositing at the oil fill, the PCV or valve cover gaskets, but only a rear seal leak, than that doesn’t mean crank case pressure. First, what was the condition of the crank journal where the seal runs? The seal could have been put in wrong or nicked. If the journal was polished for the new seal that needs done properly, otherwise that can actually induce leakage as rpms increase. Finally, you need to step through this step by step. First find a rubber hose that fits over the dipstick tube, connect the other end to a pressure gage. If the reading is under a pound or less the problem is the rear main.

An accurate as well as inexpensive test is a leak down test. This may be preformed in different ways, but all serve the same purpose. Put air in each cylinder with all valves closed and see how long that cylinder holds pressure. There is a tool that allows you to replace the spark plug, connect a compression gage and an air chuck. With this arrangement you bring each cylinder, one at a time, to TDC. This closes the valves for that cylinder, add 150 psi, close the air port off, read the compression gage and wait to see how long it holds pressure. This tells you what your blow-by is in each cylinder.

Well that’s a possibility, but easy to check! Measure the blow-by. Or dump the PCV and put in breathers on both valve covers.

How did you replace it the first time? More than likely that’s where to start. Did you pull the engine? Or just drop the pan & loosen the crank?

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ACCESS TO THE TECH TERMINAL, A 30 MINUTE RELEARN PROCEDURE MUST BE PERFORMED BY FOLLOWING THESE STEPS: PLACE A JUMP PACK ON THE VEHICLE. DO NOT LET THE BATTERY DROP BELOW 11.5 VOLTS. TRY AND START THE VEHICLE. RETURN THE KEY TO THE RUN POSITION. WAIT 10 MINUTES. (10) TURN THE KEY FROM RUN TO OFF. RETURN THE KEY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION. WAIT 10 MINUTES. (20) TURN THE KEY FROM RUN TO OFF. RETURN THE KEY BACK TO THE RUN POSITION. WAIT 10 MINUTES. (30) AFTER THE FINAL 10 MINUTES, RETURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION. THE NEXT CYCLE OF THE KEY WILL NOW RE-LEARN THE PASSLOCK DATA INTO THE REPLACEMENT MODULE.PERSONALIZATION SETTINGS IN THE DRIVER INFORMATION CENTER MAY NEED TO BE RESET. PLEASE CONSULT YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL FOR VEHICLE PERSONALIZATION.

Hey I see there is a Chevy dealership right there, maybe it was a fire sale! 😁 Speaking of Kroger, they left Northeast Ohio about 40 years ago! Makes no sense, as the company is from Cincinnati Oh.😮 go figure?

There is place up here called Morad Parts. https://moradpartscompany.com/ they have always been good to deal with. I see the have a couple BCMs, but what they may have that they don’t show online are wiring harnesses. You might call and talk to them. They have always been quite knowledgeable & helpful. Ed is the owner, if you can talk to him.

I have never needed to do anything with my BCM, but there is a company that can most likely help answer your question. https://newrockies.com/ There are a lot of things I have deleted from my GP & some have been security aspects, but not all and none have been removed off the BCM. As a side note, the GPs did not have to be a GTP to have HUD.

Kudos to you GPA! All here will certainly support your effort. An interest in car mechanics can serve you well! It can teach you more about mechanics that will span across so many genres, categories, designs and structures that it would take a book to explain it. The explosion of the industrial revolution was driven as much by the automotive industry as anything, so you go boy! If you have question we’ll do our best to answer them.

It’s really great to see you back Strat! The car looks like a great find! I love the tan interior! I have always loved the black and gold combo with a light interior, as anyone who knows me and my 69Z might guess, great choice! I don’t know where the 305 is with mods or hp, but if it’s petty much stock you can get it up to a good 400hp, or anywhere in between if you so desired. I can understand your feelings of the loss of your wife and I’m glad you are somewhat better. I’ll keep you in my prayers! we are all glad you’re back, that’s for sure! Oh yeah! The gold pinstripe like the Bandits had that you mentioned would look killer. I think they used the same 3M gold I used on the 69, it’s an 03 gold. 03 are the last two digits in the 3M number that denotes the color, the rest of the number denotes how wide the stripe, the spacing of a double stripe, etc.