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Pontiac of the Month

4 bucket 67's 1967 GTO

2019 March
of the Month

Kurk_Kurk

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About Kurk_Kurk

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Lots of pontiac cars. Rebuilding one real soon

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Curtis
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    1978
  • Car
    Firebird Esprit
  • Engine
    5.7
  • Style
    Coupe
  • Color
    Glacier blue

Recent Profile Visitors

759 profile views
  1. Definitely worthy of an update, Heater core removed and installed without removing the entire dashboard. Ha, take that pops. my father did it by the book when he was my age and building his '78 Camaro which called for him to remove the entire dashboard. took him a whole day where me, and my trusty brain, managed in only an hour.
  2. She's standing on her own two front feet now after an entire winter. All that's left for the front suspension is to grease all the fittings and replace the steering tie rods. Afterwards, it will be time to throw in the new radiator core support AND the new aluminum radiator. Welding is in the distant future at this point, as we're still trying to gather materials. A roll cage is still further along the way. As for the wheel wells, i want to throw out the stocks and cut my own to go in there. I think i could clean up the engine bay with sleeker looks of smooth sheet metal rather than the bulbous wheel wells that protrude through the engine bay. Look up 'BFG Tire Bird' and you'll see what i'm talking about. Lots of smooth space for those +5hp stickers
  3. BIG progress made, in my opinion. got one whole wheel installed finally on passenger side. Driver side didn't go so well as the lower control arm i purchased has a screwed up lower ball joint insert or seating area or whatever. The hole where it goes into to press fit (hammer into) was too wide so it didn't seat. So that's halted some of the progress for the time being. Good thing i kept my old control arms, currently getting the old one sandblasted and painted to look all nice. Frame has been painted, calipers were powder coated, slotted and drilled rotors too. Coilovers need to be adjusted still, right now it's super low but i can't change that until i get a full load on them.
  4. Interesting... I feel i certainly won't have to do any extreme cutting though, but it's nice to know what my limits may be. in either case, i have decided against tubular control arms since they change geometry that may not be in my favor, let alone barely cause any weight reduction. That cuts costs on this build by about $400 which opens up a plethora of buying options for little cleaning supplies. With my subframe exposed, im planning on coating that with something other than Engine Bled Oil and using a thick gloss black special plaint thing. Weather ain't warming up, so it may be a while before i post another picture of progress
  5. Oh, i've considered it but im working in a driveway with very limited space. Besides, all other metal is still sitting with factory fresh paint. What baffles me, from the photos, is how your car didn't collapse on itself. I thought that if you cut the car up that much, it would warp around itself. How did you manage to avoid that?
  6. Wow, such valuable information. Didn't think my only option was to buy the whole firewall, then again, i guess that's good because my dad's 1979 trans-am that he's building alongside mine is going to need firewall pieces too. (yes im in a 'race' with the old man.) I'm just hoping that that when the discription says "Incl Frame Cushion Brackets" that means those triangle torque box things are on there too. There's not a whole lot of photos :/ And the rot did make it to the floor board, but my dad has some left over floor board pieces that will fit in there. As for the lifespan of my bird, it was kept in a garage...on a carpet that retained moisture from rainy days in the salt belt of america. It was also driven regularly throught the 40+ years on the road. The two rear frame rails are also rotted out because of this and they need welding too.
  7. WOO warm weather means i can start working on the car again. Here we go, This time on Project Blue Bird: front radiator support and mounts have been removed, finally, for replacement. The actual radiator support itself is not bad so i'll be wire brushing it and painting it to make it look fresh. The mounts were not too bad but they were awful enough to merit replacement. While doing this, i noticed "Shredded Mozzarella" in my motor mounts, telling me i did too many burnouts. So, as anyone would to, i pulled the engine out for further prep work until parts come in. This is where things got worse In the photo attached, i've circled the area that's been rotted out because of a bad Heater Core. At first, i saw the rotted out toe board which seemed to be an easy enough fix. Unfortunately i jinxed myself when i found that the Acidic Antifreeze ate through all three layers of steel by the toe board. If you look, you can see the red mount from the Energy Suspension Part going into that frame-body connection point. The structure point of the car i guess. I've drawn out what's happening with the metal with my handy MS paint skills below. I have no idea how i'm going to fix this at all....
  8. Well, as soon as i made this post, the weather started warming up and the issue hasn't been around since this post. I'ts got to be the shrinking metal inside the cylinder but i'll update this post when it's really cold and not starting again. That's when i'll have a chance to heat the key and etc.
  9. Interesting. Im not sure if that would work though. Both of my keys (you're correct, both my keys look like that) don't work. If i hold the key in the start position, the SECURITY light blinks. If i sit with the key in the ignition, the light still blinks. However, if the car is warm, none of this happens and it starts normally.
  10. Okay so, i have the 2002 firebird base model and lately it's been VATs locking itself. But in this case, its not doing it randomly or from a bad resistor in the key. My 2002 firbird is VATs locking itself when temperatures overnight drop below 15F. The only thing i've found, is that the interior of the car needs to be above 20F in order for it to start properly. anything below that, the car VATs locks. how the heck do i fix this?
  11. I took a look when i got home yesterday. Oh boy, are they rusted out and bent. Driver side was expected, but the passenger side bolts and hinge were bent out of shape. Lots of angry passengers over the years ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ thanks for the heads up!
  12. Ah crap. That means my doors probably aren't lined up either. i had to install both with the shot body mounts after the accident.
  13. So this is actually a pretty big deal, we got the old body mount hardware and rubber all out for the replacements! They have never been touched since their day they rolled off the factory assembly line, as with most of the parts on the car. This is a really big deal because one day when me and my Father had to replace the flywheel, we put the jack stand under the trans and pumped it up for engine alignment, the whole car would bend and creak from the firewall and forward. It was about to accordion itself, really, with how much it bent. that was because of these worn out bolts. With the new Energy Suspension rubber bushings and hardware in place, the whole thing barely budges from it's position.Which gives me the whole 'i told you so' attitude because my father keeps telling me the car is 'unsaveable' But seriously, look at how awful these bolts got. I drove around with these for about 4 years, yikes.
  14. Alright, looks like i made some progress for phase 1 of the restoration. The whole front fenders, bumper and hood are all off and the guts are fully exposed. So much to the point where i can see how every. single. bushing. has been dry rotted and dusted out of place. The body mount bushings? they fell out finally, rotted away and feeling like a wet paper towel. Unfortunately, while trying to tackle the body mounts, on the first turns i felt the bold starting to 'rub' you know, the tell-tale sign that the rusted bolt is about to break. So now i wait for new bolts to come in before going any further with that. pretty sure i need to work one side of the frame and then the other, lifting the body up just enough and etc. fun times. I can, however, go ahead with control arm bushing replacement since i think that's where the illusion of a 'bent body' is coming from. Not to mention how i now have all the room in the world to work on it. Little by little. And i would love to have a full frame like you have there, but i simply have no idea how to do that. the most i'll end up doing, is cutting out the entire back seat and trunk out and turning that into a reinforced cage section since.. it's all sheet metal there anyway. I'll create a bunch of room back there to play around with. let my creative side out for a bit lol. So if anyone knows, i need to know the bolt size on the body mounts. I know it's a 15/16, grade 8 bolt, but i dont know the thread or length i need. Any help? UntIl NeXT tImE
  15. Well, i don't have a flat spot. but one of my tires is like, making a U shape. Pretty sure that might be the problem then. Aside form this, the driver side wheel sticks out an entire 1" more than the passenger side rear wheel. I don't remember if it's always been like that, but if i can't fix that, i guess i could use some spacers to even it out. Weather has been pretty shite so i haven't had a chance to strip the parts off. Still waiting...
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