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Pontiac of the Month

brandyv73's 1968 Firebird

2019 June
of the Month

Kurk_Kurk

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About Kurk_Kurk

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Lots of pontiac cars. Rebuilding one real soon

Forever Pontiac

  • Name
    Curtis
  • Gender
    Male
  • Year
    1978
  • Car
    Firebird Esprit
  • Engine
    5.7
  • Style
    Coupe
  • Color
    Glacier blue

Recent Profile Visitors

835 profile views
  1. Alright, so on my 2002 Firebird V6 my catalytic converter kicked the bucket. I took this as a opportunity to buy some straight pipes for the V6 and glasspacks. (I know, but if i want to v8 swap, the pipes will be there now anyway.) My question, since the O2 Sensor is AFTER the Converter, would i be able to just zip tie the sensor to the frame? What im saying is, will the car run without that O2 Sensor behind the cat?
  2. I'd feel a lot more comfortable sleeving all eight. might as well keep it all evenly machined all around to avoid any more mishaps.
  3. The numbers matching motor is long gone by now. It was your basic 305CI enigne and i didn't see much value in that at the time. Boring the engine is probably not the best in my case, considering i'd need all new pistons for the new bore, and my pockets are running shallow. Would it be wise to bore it out to .060 and then sleeve it to .030?
  4. Yup, i know about the oversized rings. im just worried about boring it over again. I'm already 30 over bore, so what would be next? 40 over? i know i cant go past 60 over, but i feel im cutting it close now. I'd love to see if i can get away with honing because of this. But if i absolutely HAVE to, ill take it to a shop. Thakfully my dad knows a guy that can get the work done really well for a case of beers and $300 And frosty, you're damned right im gonna build this the right way without any Spectre oil pans or gaskets lol. I'll stomach the extra few bucks and buy some legitimate parts this time around. Im glad im choosing street though, can't imagine how much money i'd be down with a race engine build!
  5. And it was going so smoothly. While working on the car, buttoning up loose bolts, prepping areas for paints and general placements, he wanted to take a look at the engine, which was sitting on the Engine stand and flipped over. He looked around, asking about the crankshaft and what-not. pointing out a lean oil pickup tube too. It wasn't long before i wanted to show him how tall the engine was going to be with the new carb, intake and etc. So when i rotated the engine to Right Side Up, oil poured out of cylinder 5 spark plug hole. That would explain why there was always a fouled plug and blue smoke behind me. So, new set of piston rings? Nope. Unfortunately, it got worse once we took the cylinder heads off. We found scoring and deep scratches in cylinder walls all through the block. The culprit? the Damned Spectre Oil Pan. i think it's called a splash shield (?) that cracked and with the vibrations, the seam from the crack rubbed together creating metal flakes in the oil. im praying that a simple honing could solve this, since buying new pistons for a new overbore, let alone get it to a machine shop, is not within my budget.
  6. Definitely worthy of an update, Heater core removed and installed without removing the entire dashboard. Ha, take that pops. my father did it by the book when he was my age and building his '78 Camaro which called for him to remove the entire dashboard. took him a whole day where me, and my trusty brain, managed in only an hour.
  7. She's standing on her own two front feet now after an entire winter. All that's left for the front suspension is to grease all the fittings and replace the steering tie rods. Afterwards, it will be time to throw in the new radiator core support AND the new aluminum radiator. Welding is in the distant future at this point, as we're still trying to gather materials. A roll cage is still further along the way. As for the wheel wells, i want to throw out the stocks and cut my own to go in there. I think i could clean up the engine bay with sleeker looks of smooth sheet metal rather than the bulbous wheel wells that protrude through the engine bay. Look up 'BFG Tire Bird' and you'll see what i'm talking about. Lots of smooth space for those +5hp stickers
  8. BIG progress made, in my opinion. got one whole wheel installed finally on passenger side. Driver side didn't go so well as the lower control arm i purchased has a screwed up lower ball joint insert or seating area or whatever. The hole where it goes into to press fit (hammer into) was too wide so it didn't seat. So that's halted some of the progress for the time being. Good thing i kept my old control arms, currently getting the old one sandblasted and painted to look all nice. Frame has been painted, calipers were powder coated, slotted and drilled rotors too. Coilovers need to be adjusted still, right now it's super low but i can't change that until i get a full load on them.
  9. Interesting... I feel i certainly won't have to do any extreme cutting though, but it's nice to know what my limits may be. in either case, i have decided against tubular control arms since they change geometry that may not be in my favor, let alone barely cause any weight reduction. That cuts costs on this build by about $400 which opens up a plethora of buying options for little cleaning supplies. With my subframe exposed, im planning on coating that with something other than Engine Bled Oil and using a thick gloss black special plaint thing. Weather ain't warming up, so it may be a while before i post another picture of progress
  10. Oh, i've considered it but im working in a driveway with very limited space. Besides, all other metal is still sitting with factory fresh paint. What baffles me, from the photos, is how your car didn't collapse on itself. I thought that if you cut the car up that much, it would warp around itself. How did you manage to avoid that?
  11. Wow, such valuable information. Didn't think my only option was to buy the whole firewall, then again, i guess that's good because my dad's 1979 trans-am that he's building alongside mine is going to need firewall pieces too. (yes im in a 'race' with the old man.) I'm just hoping that that when the discription says "Incl Frame Cushion Brackets" that means those triangle torque box things are on there too. There's not a whole lot of photos :/ And the rot did make it to the floor board, but my dad has some left over floor board pieces that will fit in there. As for the lifespan of my bird, it was kept in a garage...on a carpet that retained moisture from rainy days in the salt belt of america. It was also driven regularly throught the 40+ years on the road. The two rear frame rails are also rotted out because of this and they need welding too.
  12. WOO warm weather means i can start working on the car again. Here we go, This time on Project Blue Bird: front radiator support and mounts have been removed, finally, for replacement. The actual radiator support itself is not bad so i'll be wire brushing it and painting it to make it look fresh. The mounts were not too bad but they were awful enough to merit replacement. While doing this, i noticed "Shredded Mozzarella" in my motor mounts, telling me i did too many burnouts. So, as anyone would to, i pulled the engine out for further prep work until parts come in. This is where things got worse In the photo attached, i've circled the area that's been rotted out because of a bad Heater Core. At first, i saw the rotted out toe board which seemed to be an easy enough fix. Unfortunately i jinxed myself when i found that the Acidic Antifreeze ate through all three layers of steel by the toe board. If you look, you can see the red mount from the Energy Suspension Part going into that frame-body connection point. The structure point of the car i guess. I've drawn out what's happening with the metal with my handy MS paint skills below. I have no idea how i'm going to fix this at all....
  13. Well, as soon as i made this post, the weather started warming up and the issue hasn't been around since this post. I'ts got to be the shrinking metal inside the cylinder but i'll update this post when it's really cold and not starting again. That's when i'll have a chance to heat the key and etc.
  14. Interesting. Im not sure if that would work though. Both of my keys (you're correct, both my keys look like that) don't work. If i hold the key in the start position, the SECURITY light blinks. If i sit with the key in the ignition, the light still blinks. However, if the car is warm, none of this happens and it starts normally.
  15. Okay so, i have the 2002 firebird base model and lately it's been VATs locking itself. But in this case, its not doing it randomly or from a bad resistor in the key. My 2002 firbird is VATs locking itself when temperatures overnight drop below 15F. The only thing i've found, is that the interior of the car needs to be above 20F in order for it to start properly. anything below that, the car VATs locks. how the heck do i fix this?
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