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Pontiac of the Month

no name3's 1965 LeMans

2021 April
of the Month


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About Kurk_Kurk

  • Rank
    Learning to Fly

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Lots of pontiac cars. Rebuilding one real soon

Forever Pontiac

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  • Gender
  • Year
  • Car
    Firebird Esprit
  • Engine
  • Style
  • Color
    Glacier blue

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  1. suspension? no i was talking about the contraption inside the posi differential thing. Some are a spring, others are an S slip looking thing. (The whole rear end is Pure FORDing Magic to me) I was already looking at an auburn so good to know i was on the right track! Good thing i'm chucking my 3.73 gear to my dad's trans am, i won't need that especially since i'll be doing highway pulls. A 3.55 seems right up my alley. But then it hit me, the rear in my 2002 firebird is a Torsion Lock Diff with two worm gears that lock under a certain load of torque (?) (It's the Performance Y87 code, ki
  2. Because the blue car already has the open diff lol. So i'll be changing that diff to a posi. Thing is, i was really hoping to get the factory posi rear so a lot of the guess work would be eliminated. Now, i have to find a posi online or in a store and i'm not sure what i'm looking for. I'm finding posi rears with a collection of four springs. Others have an S clip in there. Realistically, the springs are better right? I'm also seeing tons of brands with barely any reviews, so how will i know which posi is good? Being indecisive is a huge crutch when it comes to this junk.
  3. We've got parts! No more will i manually pull up or push down my driver side window as this new(ish) door has a full window crank in there. Fenders are the saught after Trans am Fenders with vents and all, something i've always wanted but could never afford until now. We couldn't use the Rear since it was an open dif and 2.41 which was odd, but that was the case. I can now comfortably move onto the engine!
  4. Definitely going to stay away from a roll cage for the time being. I like the comforts of the car and wouldn't want them interfered. Plus, having an interior for comfort allows the inquisition of a passenger to scare shitless. Because that's always a plus. ANYWHO we struck gold! $650 bucks later... This car was sitting in a local landscaper's yard for 25 years as payment for a project that totalled 800 bucks. The roof is rotted and the original owner is long gone as well as the title. It's a true 1978 trans am and those fenders, doors and rear end will be perfect for 'Angry Bird.'
  5. Hitting those Rice rockets is my pastime but i want to make sure i can embarrass them with a Naturally Aspirated Motor. So in a sense, i will be racing with the engine. not every day, but i will be frequent enough to the point where i want to be able to drive the car home from the track every race. And i've already gotten the new Posi rear, 3.75 gear, rear disc brake conversion, suspension and all the other goodies. It's just a matter of getting the parts on since she's undergoing some SERIOUS metal work on the floors and rails. Super friggen useful to know. might be why the Girdle co
  6. No photos this time, unfortunately but i took my entire engine apart and took a good look at the bearings. Apparently i was leaking oil out of the oil pan faster than i could keep up so i need new bearings, which is no big deal. I already have an aluminum oil pan, black and silver finned ready to install. HOWEVER i need some mucho geniuses here. I have the 2 bolt main Block. Not very strong, safe zone is up to 500hp and i understand this. The current engine components already make up to 420hp with a stock specification crank shaft. I've recently found that there is a Main Girdle i can use
  7. Alright, so on my 2002 Firebird V6 my catalytic converter kicked the bucket. I took this as a opportunity to buy some straight pipes for the V6 and glasspacks. (I know, but if i want to v8 swap, the pipes will be there now anyway.) My question, since the O2 Sensor is AFTER the Converter, would i be able to just zip tie the sensor to the frame? What im saying is, will the car run without that O2 Sensor behind the cat?
  8. I'd feel a lot more comfortable sleeving all eight. might as well keep it all evenly machined all around to avoid any more mishaps.
  9. The numbers matching motor is long gone by now. It was your basic 305CI enigne and i didn't see much value in that at the time. Boring the engine is probably not the best in my case, considering i'd need all new pistons for the new bore, and my pockets are running shallow. Would it be wise to bore it out to .060 and then sleeve it to .030?
  10. Yup, i know about the oversized rings. im just worried about boring it over again. I'm already 30 over bore, so what would be next? 40 over? i know i cant go past 60 over, but i feel im cutting it close now. I'd love to see if i can get away with honing because of this. But if i absolutely HAVE to, ill take it to a shop. Thakfully my dad knows a guy that can get the work done really well for a case of beers and $300 And frosty, you're damned right im gonna build this the right way without any Spectre oil pans or gaskets lol. I'll stomach the extra few bucks and buy some legitimate parts
  11. And it was going so smoothly. While working on the car, buttoning up loose bolts, prepping areas for paints and general placements, he wanted to take a look at the engine, which was sitting on the Engine stand and flipped over. He looked around, asking about the crankshaft and what-not. pointing out a lean oil pickup tube too. It wasn't long before i wanted to show him how tall the engine was going to be with the new carb, intake and etc. So when i rotated the engine to Right Side Up, oil poured out of cylinder 5 spark plug hole. That would explain why there was always a fouled plug and
  12. Definitely worthy of an update, Heater core removed and installed without removing the entire dashboard. Ha, take that pops. my father did it by the book when he was my age and building his '78 Camaro which called for him to remove the entire dashboard. took him a whole day where me, and my trusty brain, managed in only an hour.
  13. She's standing on her own two front feet now after an entire winter. All that's left for the front suspension is to grease all the fittings and replace the steering tie rods. Afterwards, it will be time to throw in the new radiator core support AND the new aluminum radiator. Welding is in the distant future at this point, as we're still trying to gather materials. A roll cage is still further along the way. As for the wheel wells, i want to throw out the stocks and cut my own to go in there. I think i could clean up the engine bay with sleeker looks of smooth sheet metal rather than the
  14. BIG progress made, in my opinion. got one whole wheel installed finally on passenger side. Driver side didn't go so well as the lower control arm i purchased has a screwed up lower ball joint insert or seating area or whatever. The hole where it goes into to press fit (hammer into) was too wide so it didn't seat. So that's halted some of the progress for the time being. Good thing i kept my old control arms, currently getting the old one sandblasted and painted to look all nice. Frame has been painted, calipers were powder coated, slotted and drilled rotors too. Coilovers need to b
  15. Interesting... I feel i certainly won't have to do any extreme cutting though, but it's nice to know what my limits may be. in either case, i have decided against tubular control arms since they change geometry that may not be in my favor, let alone barely cause any weight reduction. That cuts costs on this build by about $400 which opens up a plethora of buying options for little cleaning supplies. With my subframe exposed, im planning on coating that with something other than Engine Bled Oil and using a thick gloss black special plaint thing. Weather ain't warming up, so it may be
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