Last Indian

1 hour ago, Stewy said:

Funny you mention that - I've been toying with the idea of starting a side hustle in the area of detailing 😉

 

 

This is last year's spring detail to-do list (the fall detail list is longer...). This is actually outdated as I have added a few steps but have yet to update my spreadsheet. Even though I have the columns broken out into "Days", each "Day" actually takes me multiple days (2 - 3 depending on the specific steps). I mainly use this list not to schedule the detailing steps but to 1) remind me what to do and 2) remind me the order things need to be done in; I should really ditch the "Day" schema and restructure things to just be in the order they need to be done in.

 

I saw this meme a while back and got a kick out of it because it's SO true. What I should post (but don't currently have) is a picture of my shelves of detailing products and tools... I'm actually designing a new shelving unit (likely build it out of 2x4's & OSB) so I can house everything in one location.

I know exactly what you mean! Believe it or not this is just some of my stock! Right now I can’t get to some of the rest of it to snap a pick. 
 

these are only about a forth of the towels and micro fiber towels I have the rest are stored in the attic or in my shop.

this goes back 2 1/2 feet waxes cleaners polish etc.

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

Our fridges and waist lines are all talking to us Stewy!!! LOL!

Maybe this title should be on the heavier side! 😳!

10 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

yip no.... wont work, these clips are angled to the body so a universal clip wont work, i have seen nothing "pontiac" thats any were like the trim clips i have.

the closest is the 64 impala ones. so i think i will just order them and fingers crossed they are right, like Last Indian has said, gm standard belt line hopefully🙄

That’s my experience kiwi! Way back into the mid “60” I would go junkyard hunting for parts with buddies when we were racing and the interchangeability between Chevy, Buick, Olds & Pontiac, both mechanically and body was incredible. 

This past week I had a chance to get started on the insert plates for the NACA duct inlets. 
 

left side close to done, little more too do! Matching the right side should be fun! 🤥

9 minutes ago, Frosty said:

It's an Aztek...so the haters will continue to hate it. They will probably say something obviously stupid as "even a blind pig is still made of pork...."

However, like wearing black, the all back theme does have a lot of "slimming" effect to the vehicle. The gold snowflake wheels and "bird" hood decal kinda work for me. Granted, there is no shaker hood scoop or T-tops. Bo and Frog aren't screaming down the Georgia/Texarkana highways running bird dog for Snowman either. Still I think this definitely would have some more appeal that a stock Aztek.

JUSTA my 2 cents worth anyway....

Agreed, but with blown out fenders, low profile tires, way better wheel than most today; I’d buy it over nearly all the other SUV out there today! That all look like they came of the same copy machine!

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Since you are going to weld and repair the wheel with epoxy, you will also be sanding the snot out of the whole wheel to take down the epoxy - the sanding will add much needed mechanical adhesion. So I might try to find a plastic adhesion promoter if you are out of any sort self-etching primer. Then I would apply 2-4 coats of primer in the hopes to build it up enough to adequately fill and sand it - I know you said you are running low on supplies. Then paint away.

That’s going to be a tuff piece to repair! I believe that those were a blend of acrylic & vinyl. The clear is acrylic the black is vinyl. Which is why so many would first crack between the clear & the black. Being to dissimilar materials finding something that will bond to both for the long term and use of the wheel may be an issue. 

12 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Pulled the belt line reveal off, after i had removed the interior trim and found 2 nuts and another in the boot👍 thanks guys,, i was thinking they where just clips pushed in.

i was lucky as its just surface rust only, so i have treated it and primed.

But the retaining clips are buggered, and i cant find anyone who is selling them, which brings me to this question. 

Being a 2 door hard top identical to a 64 impala, could the trim be the same... if so i found these guys sell the clips

  https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/product/1964/1964-chevrolet-impala-caprice-bel-air-rear-window-belt-reveal-molding-clip-kit-lower-c9082/81172

Pretty sure those will fit! Typically GM trim clips across line in sister models.

12 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

A Big freaking file! Seriously! & a lot of muscle, sandpaper & patiences!

 

 

Your clearly a very patience guy !!!

I think all of us who do what we do are very patient! I also think it’s a lot of what my buddy JustA says, “a lot of love”

Actually the steering wheels were not that hard, time consuming, but not hard. The piece I made for Frosty, that took some patience and the other end of the file spectrum. Files so small they were made for elf’s! 
 

I don’t think he would mind if I should you.

Kiwi here you go!

took an OEM wheel ripped it apart. Cut off the outer ring, cut the arms to shorten them down so I could finish at a 13” outside diameter when finished in the wood. Took a piece of 3/4 aluminum round stock and rolled outer ring, tig welded everything back together. 

start cutting and grooving black walnut, oak & Mahogany woods, as you can see with .030 copper plate on each side of the Mahogany.

drill through the 3/4 round stock to bolt the wood plates on each side together. The plates stagger each joint on the opposite side.

finish with copper plugs &copper tubing filled with black walnut dowel.

The side pieces for the radio controls are carved out of solid aluminum & then bolted to the wheel on the back side.

this is one of the upper motor mounts I designed, the other side looks similar,. These attach to the engine completely different. They actually hold the motor with very little movement, but you get the engine vibrations transmitted like you do if you use stiffer bushings with the stock mounts.

gas pedal!

gas pedal, brake pedal. Parking brake pedal, black walnut & oak console top with arrowhead.

first handmade gear shift lever.

new gear shift lever

front grilles for front cover

insert grille for hood

21 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

wow!! you certainly had a major job with both camaros!!! i am impressed with your full Chassis on both cars, bet that made a difference to handling too !

i had a 75 lt and it had the same big bumpers as your wife 74, with that great big leaf spring behind the ally.

 i read some where how in 72 over 110k camaros where crushed after thay didnt meet the new frontal impact rules, guess that is why the big bumpers. not sure who true that was ...🙄

The “69” was just incredible! I have raced quarter miles, saloon racing and road courses for many many years! I drove them, built them and designed suspension for them, but never did one handle like the “69” did after I finished the full frame & suspension mods. I had removed 300 pounds from the car by cutting out the entire floor from firewall back, all of it and all from above CG. That is a very heavy floor triple panel in some places because of the unibody. Long story short, I never got to drive behind the car, but many that did told me over and over that it changed lanes like a slot car. That kind of maneuverability & 600hp were a pretty fun combination.

The “74” handle really well too, but a little more docile, not quite as aggressive & only about 350hp. The bumpers you mentioned! Those were an abortion if I ever saw one! Aluminum and steel in the winter! Water, salt! Seriously they might as well have connected a battery to it and forget the alternator! So when I rebuilt it I gutted the bumpers! No steel leafs, got rid of them all. Just the aluminum bumper! Welded up some Stainless steel extension brackets that extended out from the frame and mounted the bumpers solid. In doing that I moved the bumpers in about 4” closer to the body and got rid of the flexible vinyl body color intermediate piece they used.

10 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

I need some input from you guys about what to do with my steering wheel..... i could just buy an after market wheel and stick it on... that would be the easy way  out.😋

But i want to try and save this steering wheel, any one had and experience with rebuilding a wheel like this with clear sections ????

 any advise would be great .

 and i am not scared of trying to weld it up and making a mold etc... never done it but keen to learn

or... does some one have one for sale ????

The other issue i had today is i have a spot of rust under the rear window trim and i want to remove this trim.... i would really!!! like some input as to how to remove this trim with out stuffing it up!!

 hope one of you has been there done that, and can give me some advise....😦😦

Ok! Bit of a long winded answer, sorry! Both Frosty & JustA are correct with a caveat! The window trim would use Frosty’ tool! Not his tool, but the one he showed. The upper trim that wraps around the window? It depends on what kind of clips are used? That I’m not sure of. So you might be able to use the window trim tool, but  my guess is it could be what I think JustA I suggesting. You have to remove the inside panels and remove a nut. 

I actually think it’s another type of clip though. This type of clip has two upset lips on each end that snap into the inside groove of the trim on each side. Possibly with a nutted clip at each finished end. I would take a couple plastic body filler spreaders at the rear glass area and insert them, one on top of the other, under the trim. This should raise the trim up. If it doesn’t raise it enough to see under the trim use a broad blade putty knife between the two spreaders to raise it more to see if you can tell what type of clip. Once that is known removal will be much easier.

The steering wheel! Well obviously you have to pull it. I think Frosty’s on the right track!  Clearly you have to get rid of all the plastic on the ring. If you can pull the broken section back in place where the ring looks round & you can weld it that’s the simplest. But you more than likely will have to cut the plastic on the two arms back as well. Than getting a material that will adhere to the old existing plastic and fill the rim without cracking may be a challenge. I have a few thoughts as to how you might restore it as best you can without sending it to a restorer, but see what you find when you take it apart first.

I think this link will work? This was posted back in “17” I owned both a “69” & “74” Z both were massively modified as you will see, if the link works. The “74” was my wife’s the “69” was mine part, just part of the reason for the massive mods were to many winters in Northeast Ohio! Lots of hard winter lots of salt! And yes we drove them year around. Believe me when I say, winter, big horsepower, rear wheel drive, is nothing but shear fun! 

15 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

mate, i am so impressed with the craftsmanship 

 have every done a thread on how you go about making your wheel and trim??

i would certainly be interested on the process

I’ve done a little here and there, but I can put something together. Take a look on the progression forum at FWD ground pounder, that shows some of the different things.

15 hours ago, 64 kiwi boni said:

Haha, phone cameras tells soooo many lies mate !! 

 a nice coat of high build primer and a wet sand will get rid of them... even the wife says it looks fantastic!!.... when are you fixing the front she goes.... i reply.... when i get my CHASSIS !!

its just a bloody neat car Last Indian, it is my very first pontiac but its so gm, which makes it so basic to understand how every thing is put together.

 What gets me with this car is the hi po engines from factory !! and those big ali finned drum brakes... just sooo cool 😋

oh and the steel .... so easy to work with!!! 

It’s why I have always loved GM products! Not in all cases, but they, better than most always seemed to extract the best from a particular division and transfer it across all their lines!

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

Ummm...doesn't $7E8 indicate the engine data stream and $7EA indicate the transmission data stream and not a particular error code? I'm not arguing with Last Indian's diagnosis but I thought $7E8/$7EA indicated another menu needed to be selected. Just asking....

Correct Frosty! I know I said code, but the data, not a code, indicates a cat issue not a sensor issue, or at least that’s the way I interpret it to be. Which is way I said a cat issue or pipe.

11 minutes ago, Stewy said:

Ok, gotta ask how you were able to decipher those codes (internet search... ?) so I can do it should something like that come up again 🙂

I have a GM code book from my days in the business, but I do believe if you put that in to a search for 7e8 engine code you can find it that way too. 

15 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

He copied me!!!!!!   Oh wait a min, this IS some of his ORIGINAL work.   How lucky am I??

That warms the cockles of my heart buddy! I couldn’t think of a better place I would rather see it!

Great job! We love to see Pontiac’s being loved!

On 4/3/2020 at 11:37 PM, 64 kiwi boni said:

Yeah justa6 i am a devoted petrolhead and have been since i was a kid, early days it was all 56 chevs and dirt track racing old cars ( mostly old holdens) and then i just sort of started to stop selling and just buying and keeping them.

I have one more that i will post, and it is my favorite baby.. i went to New York too a car show especially to see it released and it took 2 years to get my hands on one, and i aint never selling it.

The rest are not worthy of this web site ( no one wants to see a old dodge ram or escorts, cortinas minis and mazdas)

 got any pictures of your Ute ???

Holden just got canned by gm so its kind of like Pontiac now... collector items👍

18 minutes ago, JUSTA6 said:

My Ute is my address,  it's the street I live on.     The general public have no idea how to spell it.  Best example of what it is......a native American tribe.  My Ol Sunbird is my 1st NEW car.  Still only has 30,000 mi on it and will never leave here.  

I couldn’t agree with my buddy JustA more! Great collection. Love the “70” Camaro! “69” Z was first love & my first new car! Broke my heart to sell it in 2004. I would love to see the Rams!

15 minutes ago, Stripes said:

Thanks for your incorrect speculation on the equipment I purchased and installed on my vehicle. I know what I  installed on my car, geez get over yourself.  My point is that I have compared and experienced both halogen and HID headlights side by side on my vehicles. I didnt need a physics lesson or deep dive into reflector technology to SEE which were vastly better. I come to forums like this to learn from what others experienced and share my own experiences. 

I think you need to look in the mirror son! You’re the one who is posting to a topic long closed, 2 years old, from someone asking about lights for his car. 
your purpose was clearly look at me, look at me! Look what I know! 

9 hours ago, Stripes said:

Yes I had Cibies. Yes they had h4 bulbs, and 7" glass lenses in my  RX7. Yes they weren't legal, and yes I ran them everywhere with no issues. They were not hard to obtain. They were a vast improvement over stock lights of the time period, and were vastly better than any T3 light. The halogen bulbs at the time were expensive and burnt out often. However, the point was, both are outdated today. The HID lights do more using less resources, more durable, last longer, and are far far brighter in both volume and intensity. They can fit in the Cibie housings if you wish. Cibie sold quite a few pairs of thier lights, I had exactly one pair. I'm not sure what your jibberish is regarding housings, but I promise you new vehicles with those projector  hid lights are far brighter than any 7" Cibie. However, I drive a classic car and do not have the luxury of selecting the size of the headlights, I have to go with what is there. The bulbs I can change.

 Cole, first of all if I made you feel that I was insulting you I apologize, but I wasn’t. You made a blanket statement about Cibies’ and T3 lights, which could be quite misleading to others and we were all speaking about classic car fitment, be it 7” or 5 ¾” round. So there is not a lot to choose from. While I never mentioned it, because I was sure you would respond back, those specific Cibie lights were Z-Beams, which were different than the standard H4 Cibie light. Additionally Cibies Z-Beams haven’t been made since 1986 and Cibies ceased all production in 1992 with next to no US sale for a few years prior to that. That said there was at the time and still are some reproductions and knockoffs being made and sold. Hence the statement, you did not! And your reply, they were not hard to obtain reenforces that. 

As far as the gibberish, not (jibberish) goes, I will presume your understanding of the physics of light, its transmission as well as its makeup are not part of your wheelhouse. Otherwise your statements of volume, of which there is volume to be expressed for light! Intensity yes, wavelength yes, color yes, reflective property’s, absorption yes. Light and it’s transmission are an entire science all its own. HIDs and LEDs are different than a glowing tungsten wire or a glowing tungsten wire surrounded by halogen gas! Those two light forms are good not because of the electrical draw reduction, but because of the wavelength of light they can produce that a tungsten wire and halogen can’t. In which case has nothing to do with the mechanism that transmits the light, thus back to the original Cibie Z-Beam!

This was meant to teach not correct!

15 hours ago, Stripes said:

I had some of those Cibie headlights in the 90's. They and the T3 replacement headlights are dinosaurs today. Those T3 light are barely any brighter than the crappy stock lights and SUCK the amps out of your likely undersized for them headlamps alternator.

The answer? HID headlights, for sure. My HID headlamps appear stock, use lots less amps than a halogen or OE light, and on low beam put out at least 100 times more light. I don't even use high beams for fear of blinding low aircraft. Ok, that may be a little exaggeration.  But one HID light puts out more light that 4 factory lights by far. Check out https://www.octanelighting.com  and thank me later. Check out the presentation I gave below, and no, I do not work for octane lighting.

 

April Tech N 10 DAPA headlights.pptx 11.68 MB · 4 downloads

I understand you may think you had some Cibie’s, but if you are comparing them to T3’s then you did not! 

First of all Cibie are only non sealed Halogen lights! Which in the 1990 were still illegal in the US for highway use. Which made them difficult to obtain. T3 are sealed beam! Second Cibie’s are a special metal parabolic housing, that use pure silver that is plated on to the housing, with a patented specifically cut 24% lead crystal lense that distributes the light very similar to a cutoff projection headlight. This combination presents a wider flatter, but further out light pattern than any past or present sealed beam headlight! This headlight became the benchmark that all the marketers of today try to achieve. The very advertising photos they use to show are exactly the same type photo Cibie used in the late 1960’s. They also were quite pricey!

Third, with respect to light, any light, when used for illumination, but with concentration, there are two very important requirements! Number one is the design of the parabolic and it’s reflective surface characteristic! Then the all important Kelvin temperature. This temperature, color spectrum, determines how things are illuminated. This feature and only this feature is a more desirable element than the stock Halogen bulb! But in today’s world you could and can install an HID or LED bulb and have the best of both worlds! 

The fact is that a 7” round parabolic is the best headlight shape followed by a 5” round! Followed by nothing! One of the main reasons manufacturers stated producing projection headlights was because their chopped up sculpted headlight designs just plain sucked! They needed a way to get back to an honest parabolic shape to be able to reflect light with the physical properties that come from that physics law!