Last Indian

AND as the enthusiasm builds! ! & I’m still workin my ass of on the honeydew list! Just starting to see a little glint of light!

At this point I’m sure you don’t want to touch your face, but! You shouldn’t need to pull the engine. I would believe, like any of the GM V8s, if you drain the coolant & oil, remove the hose connections to the radiator & remove the motor mount bolts, plus clear anything that would restrict moving the engine upwards about 6”. Than make a wood cradle to go between the floor jack & the front portion of the tranny, you can raise the engine enough to remove the pan & install a new one. Of course you also need to get the whole car of the ground enough to get under it comfortably.

Even awhile!🙄

Those are still available through GM, that’s where I would go. But that’s just me!

Those type of parts are vacuum deposition plated! Redoing them would not be easy or cheap, if you could even find it. Best bet is either what JustA said or find a good 3M dealer who knows their stuff. 3M sells all kinds of pinstripe (contact) tape & they sell it in all kinds of colors including chrome, silver & many variation of those. They come in all kinds of widths! Anywhere from a 1/32 wide to 2 feet, depending on the color. If you know how to use an exacto knife, you should be good to go.

I have to agree with Kiwi! # 1 how many miles on the car! # 2 the cars been wrecked so most likely it’s been recorded on car fax so no matter what you do for restoration you can forget about $30-$35 k for resale. Being a GXP is both good & bad most of the parts are gone as far as new. The hood, front bumper cover, lights etc. & even if you could get them the hood is over a $1000, front cover over $500, headlights are over $400 each. It appears the core support is bent! If you can find new parts to put on & half ass fix the structural components what’s the point. If you love the car & you want it just for you to hold on to long into the future; well that’s a different story than! Make the sacrifice & go for it!

And your point!

I’ll tell ya Kiwi, what a job , not that I haven’t done it before! But man pulling all the crap out, cleaning everything up! Paint, panting & oh did I mention painting. Then carefully installing it all in. Laying on my back to torque bolts to 133 ft pounds that you can barely get to! Wow.

Hey! Martin was amazing! 54 years old 500 mile of a grueling race @ 200 mph. Yeah baby!

Entering into the home stretch, another couple of weeks, I hope!

# 6! So can we call you Mark Martin?

Yeah I didn’t get the first one, won’t get the second one either, everybody’s got to choose for themselves. If you delve into what that chemistry really is & how it works ya no thanks. I like my heath to much & my nuts!

Ahh, you better be carful with that! You know those fit pretty snug & snow compresses and doesn’t come back out! You could go from Frosty to pencil head real quick!

Yeah, sorry Frosty, once again later to the party. There is a easier way & you don’t need to use the threads, but I guess it doesn’t matter now. At least you’re good to go now!

Two Lane, my heart breaks for you, so sad! You are in my prayers, as is all your family! Take solace in knowing you will see her again my friend.

I could tell more, but fortunately for me I try not to photographically record my stupidity! 😁

Fitzy, you hit into the head! There are times I look back & say to myself, what was I thinking?! I did two complete builds of my Z on a stone driveway & one of my wife’s “74”! The original Z I rebuilt there once, then it was totaled in very late “77” bought a beat up one in early “78”, they were had to find even in “78”. Took both cars & made one, while building a full frame, putting in a stainless floor & designing brakes at the same time. Then rebuilt my wife’s northeast Ohio winter ravaged Z at the house we live in now. With a garage & concrete floor & drive. Then 2000 Grand Prix! And Now at 70 two not one, but two Lacrosses! I am officially insane ! rocks big rocks! ouch!

No doubt, after all your goat was built before my Z! I was JustA holden on to that wheel till I found ya! Couldn’t have found a better home for it. JustA to clarify, the right one is the wheel you now have, different horn button.

Hey JustA! I JustA found my original picture of something I think you recognize! recognize the one on the right? This was the original picture I had taken to send to a notable wheel mfg. in 1979 to see if they had an interest. They said it would cost to much to build.

Not really an epic parts failure, more like a momentary lapse of brain function! This is what happens when you forget to completely tighten down the distributor. You wipe out 4 pistons, I.E. break every piston ring in at least 3 places!

Buddy you couldn’t be more correct, problem is this those people are so evil, so sick & so delusional they’ll never pull out of the spiritual!

Carbon metallic pads use carbon fiber mixed obviously some type of metal shavings, ceramic metallic uses ceramic mixed with metal shavings and organic obviously we all know. You recommendation would be the carbon metallic! They have very good heat tolerance good fade properties excellent stopping power, better than ceramics, yet they are much easier on rotors. With the type of rotors you are getting, I think you would be ahead of the game with carbon metallics. IMO.

I think you’ll be pleased. Nothing like made in the USA! Than you can actually get it! Amazing! Maybe somebody should tell Joe! Oh wait he’s too busy getting the bird poop off his coat!

JustA you need to look closely at the holes they’re not really chamfered. It’s not the size as much as removing the entry & exit of the cone per say. Looking closely you will see there are basically no sharp edge of any kind entering the cross drill hole or exiting it. Those two points are the precipitous of the problem. The hole chamfer isn’t actually a chamfer it’s called a sinusoid curve.

Look good Frosty! I’m only saying this from an informational standpoint & there is absolutely nothing wrong with those rotors, they are nice! And I know you most likely won’t do this, but just in case you would here goes. What Two Lane spoke of with reference to heat & cracking I delved into when I did my brake design way back when. One thing that really helps with that issue is a broader chamfer with a bit of a rounded deburr at both ends of the chamfer. What actually happens is the sharp edge & short distance of the chamfer causes a heat buildup on the two sharp edges. Believe it or not those edges act as block of more accurately a venting point for the heat instead of a smooth transition. Over time this concentration of heat causes a form of work hardening, which ultimately cracks. I don’t have any good pictures of how I did my original rotors, but the ones I bought for the Indian I do. Look closely at the holes! Here are the only rotors I ever found that were done correctly! That was why I bought them.