Frosty

AZN - can't find 'em - grind 'em....especially 3rd. Should be an interesting season on Outlaws.

Notallthere is never gentle...especially when he's trying to cop a feel at club meetings. I know, I know, I know....TMI. But hey at least I get to flirt with the missus. GE - I'd pay good money to see a video of Ringo take a big ol' swig of your stump water for the first time!

One thing in the time line bugs me. If the Monkeys were so pressed for time after Alex's crash in Texas and the repairs it took to fix it. We see them load it on a trailer to head to California. When did they have time to wrap the Challenger and put it in the Pro Stock trailer?

Since the show repeated last night, it's no secret now that Big Child won the first two races in a best two out of three race format, Big Chief whole shorted Alex Laughlin both times.

Good luck with the new water pump and thermostat Dr Jones. We are all interested to find out what happens next. Dr Jones, I think I had a small epiphany. It just dawned on me that your overheating issues is with a Pontiac engine in a 3rd gen body. Bear with me. When Pontiac built the third gens, other than the first couple of years, there are no open access to the radiator through the front grille. All the grilles are closed. So Pontiac installed a small plastic air dam under the car, in front of the front wheels/radiator that directs air up into the radiator from near road level. It's about 1.5-2.5 wide and spans the width of the car. It's not clear to me in your photographs if that air dam is there. Is that air dam still there? Is it removed or dangling? If it is missing or partially attached, then this may be contributing to you overheating since cool air is not being forced up into the radiator.

Depends on what you plan to do with the car. If you were racing type, then drag shocks would be in order. Also if you were going to lower the car for either autocross or the low-rider/get-the-car-in-the-weeds look, then perhaps air bagger shocks/suspension kit would be your selection. However, if you plan to essentially keep the car mostly stock appearing with minor upgrades to the stock suspension, I would recommend going with a good quality premium gas shock - either an AC/Delco, Monroe, K-Y-B, or Gabriel replacement for the fronts. You could spring for the multi-adjustable ones from the likes of QA1 but is that what you really want? Plus they are much more expensive. Out back is a little more complicated. Do you plan to haul a lot of people and/or luggage/tents/car show chairs/coolers, etc, etc, etc. that could weigh down the back end? Again, I would probably start with a premium gas shock. If you think a lot of stuff or people will be needed to be lugged around that will weigh a ton, then perhaps a set of rear air shocks from Gabriel is the ticket. I had issues with my air shocks during a recent parade with my whole family in my Lemans convertible. Since my wife complained about the ride, I decided to try something new. I got a set of Gabriel "Rear Spring Assist Shocks" which is a gas shock with an added coil spring to help support the rear spring under heavier than normal rear loads and I don't have to rely on air pressure to keep them up. Everything is mechanical. That's my two cents, I am sure others will chime with their opinions. Regardless, replacing the bushing all the way around with either rubber or polyurethane will help, along with replacing the front upper and lower ball joints, and perhaps the entire drag link assembly along with the idler and pitman arms. Lastly, I've read somewhere that someone has come up with a rear sway bar kit for the big B-C cars, which they never had originally. This will make a huge difference in the handling of the car if you can find one and install it. The sway bar could be added at anytime. Getting the car running is the main priority.

SPRINT6 - once again I've learned something from you, my friend. I was going to guess at a 30s era trunk rack, but I would have been guessing. The fact that you had the photograph to prove it, is outstanding. Thank you again sir!

You don't have winter, indoor car shows close to you?

Welding project! Build a new kamode out of 3/4 plate stainless and have it pinstriped!

Here are the block codes and casting numbers for all '63 A-bodies.

We don't get the actual race until March 27th! The Monkeys vs Outlaws builds are two episodes each. So we still need to wrap up the Crow II build first.

He practically gets his Mopar parts for free. Who else does Dodge commercials and is allowed to disassemble, gut, use-as-you-please a pilot Challenger Hellcat and not have to return it to FCA unscathed? You and I would be in jail for grand theft auto! So that car had been used for two builds. The Dart that beat the Roadkill boys and now he's gunning for Justin.

But of course!

Maybe you can find some aftermarket SBC Chevy valve covers that say Pontiac then. JUSTA a thought.

You can try posting it in the Pontiac Oakland Club International (POCI) want ads if you are a member. Obviously a large range of Pontiac and perhaps AACA postings. Hemmings might also be a good place to post it.

I totally agree with JUSTA on this. It's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Even if you end up with $500 for it, it is $500 you have to spend on something else, plus it isn't taking up space in your garage anymore.

Old Guy, I would definite recommend doing a light porting and polishing on both the intake and exhaust ports. I would also recommend a 3-angle valve job to help the valves seal properly on any engine. Also porting to match the intake and exhaust gaskets/manifolds is good for any engine. I have done that with my 455. As for mileage, I get around 12-14 on the highway with my 4-bbl and 400TH combo with my 455 (its really a 462 - a 455 bored .030 over). Lucy is a 4500 lb car too. With the top down or a super heavy right foot, it can drop to 8 smiles per gallon. I have never measured city driving since I don't use mine as a daily driver. However, the 4-bbl carbs only open the bigger secondaries only when you need them.

Since your mind is made up to do a restomod on the '31, my opinion/suggestion would be to sell the motor to someone who might be doing an authentic '31 restoration. Let someone restore it who wants to see it run again or has need of the parts. Plus it will bring in some cash to offset the cost of your build.

I think I'll take my chances with the stump water. Montezumas Revenge is not my idea of fun. Dry heaves I understand.

You got me there. However, spending any time with the Pontiac is still better than house work,

I have been following this thread and I'd like to add my two cents. You mentioned getting a 700R4 transmission. I imagine that is for overdrive and mileage consideration. As Two Lane as already stated, the 700R4 is strictly a Chevy bolt pattern and will require and adaptor plate kit to go from the Pontiac (or BOP - Buick/Olds/Pontiac) bolt pattern to the Chevy. The alternative would be to find a 200-4R transmission. They were used in early 80s Trans Am and turbo Regals/Grand Nationals and other applications. You can find them if you look around. They have the BOP bolt pattern and they are only a couple of inches larger than the 350/400 transmission. You will have to have your drive shaft shortened and replaced though for the new tranny. I am using a Melling cam and lifters in my 455, I don't recall the cam specs since it has been in the engine and in the car for over 13 years but it is close to a Ram Air II/III spec (since I also have a 4 bbl carb). Additional I am using a Melling high volume oil pump to go along with it to keep it well lubricated. I used ARP studs and fasteners for all the internals and bottom end to keep everything together. I still use the stock head bolts to keep everything outwardly stock appearing. I recommend a new weight and spring set with the distributor. This way you will get maximum vacuum and mechanical advance all in as soon as possible. I also recommend replacing your points and condenser with a breakerless unit from Pertronix. You will never have to set a dwell ever again. I also have a new double roller timing chain and gears to replace the stretched original timing chain. One more thing for your overall rebuild. The late John Sawruck, Pontiac historian and professional engineer at Pontiac, use to lecture to us Pontiac faithful over and over was replacing all rubber hoses on the car, especially those that came in contact with gasoline or gas vapor with modern hose. The reason being that rubber hoses made back in the day were designed with the leaded fuel of the day in mind. Rubber lines have several enemies these days that try to break it down from the outside: time, UV/sun exposure, chemical exposure, road grim exposure. However gas formulas have changed significantly since your car was built. Today's unleaded gas contains between 0-15% ethanol. The ethanol starts breaking down the original rubber from the inside now. Today's modern rubber hose is designed to resist all of this. So it is best that you replace every rubber hose on the car while you have the opportunity to do so with modern equivalent available hose, especially the small one that runs from the fuel tank to the hard lines. I replaced mine and I found it about ready to split in half. You can get modern hoses with the correct OEM markings from many of the catalog vendors along with the period correct clamps if you are going for a totally original look too. The real key is this is a safety and reliability issue. We don't want a car breaking down or worse, catching fire. As for an exhaust, you might contact Pypes Exhaust. While they are a performance minded exhaust company, they do have exhaust down turns for your car. They also have quieter mufflers if you still want to hear the radio! Have you considered headers or factory headers (RAM AIR/HO manifolds) to replace the stock log style exhaust manifolds to help improve exhaust flow (and your mileage)? Lastly Walden Exhaust produces exact OEM reproduction exhausts, so if you choose to stay with a factory correct single exhaust or switch to a factory style dual exhaust, I suspect they will have what you need. Of course you can always go to Midas, Tuffy, or whomever else.

I know the feeling. However I'd rather be twisting wrenchs on my Pontiac than house cleaning.

I've got no experience going that route so I cannot comment.

Here are a list of Pontiac salvage yards that might have some of the key parts you are looking for: East West Auto Parts www.pontiacpart.com Frank's Pontiac Parts http://www.frankspontiacparts.com/ Indiana Pontiacs LLC https://www.facebook.com/groups/481412125313585/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE Desert Valley Auto Parts http://www.dvap.com/ Your disc brake conversion kit (which ever one you go with) will dictate your 5-lug bolt pattern. From there you can select your wheels. It could be a Chevy/GM bolt-pattern, The nice thing is most wheels these days can be had in nearly any bolt pattern. Cragar and Keystone brand wheels are still available new, along with TorqThrust and Halibrand look-alikes. Diamond tires still has white walls available. Also I think Coker or someone else still has wide white walls. There is a re-lining server for the 8-lug drums if you need it: J&G Drum Relining in McHenry Il. jgrelining.com

I read somewhere that someone was making an eight-lug disc conversion but I have not seen anything about it of late, so a regular five-lug 4-wheel disc conversion is still you cheapest route. Pontiac used different holes/mounts for heater only versus AC and heater cars, thus requiring different holes in the firewall. Any after market system will require you to make the system fit under you dash, drill the necessary cooling hoses through the firewall and run an aftermarket compressor off the engine, even if you use or install factory looking AC vents. Also you dash controller will change to add the AC option. That said, AC is well worth it.